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If you dont use the buttons too often, and so you can continue using your BB until you get it sorted, you could disconnect the board and just use Escribe to set your watts.... (I think this would work, I haven't tried though)
Also, maybe take the board out and soak it in alcohol for a while to clean the juice out of the buttons, the alcohol "should" dissolve it.... or try cleaning the buttons out with contact cleaner or the likes..
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Someone posted elsewhere that he put a mod that had been disabled by Eliquid in an ultrasonic cleaner filled with isopropyl. He let it dry in the sun a day or two and he said it worked great afterwards.
Good day for me.
Sometime in the past few days someone posted about a problem with a mod. Not sure where and I can't find it right now. It was running at max power whatever they set it to. I have a nice old purple Provari Mini that was doing the same thing. Even at 3.0V it would make the tank crackle like crazy, on other mods set to 3V the tank would only produce a tiny trace of vapor. I tried it at 3.0V all the way up to 6V and it didn't change.
Put it away last summer because I didn't feel like spending the money to send it to Bill the Provari guy.
Then I saw this post. Remembered I had some CRC on my car maintenance shelf. Not the quick dry version just regular.
So I sprayed inside the Provari. Pretty much filled it up, shook it, and poured it out. Did that a few times then left it to dry. I figured it would probably kill the Provari but it's actually working perfectly again now. Good timing. I put my last two 19490 batteries on the shelf to recycle last week. Now I have to track down some 18490's. My two AW's are almost 5 years old.
nice one gsmit1
I'm tellin ya.
Everybody should have a can around. I've had several nonfunctional mods, most not mine to be honest, but I open em up and soak the insides down. Everything but the screen. It probably wouldn't hurt a screen, but I just keep it from hitting the screen directly. I usually don't use the straw thing when it's an open target like that. Soak it down and let it run out all over the place.
If the problem has anything to do with juicy dirty corroded gunk somewhere, this stuff gets it out and the problems fixed. Until the next time they bring it to me fulla juice and dirt.
The quick dry one I linked to is what I use. A thin spray will dry in seconds and a soak down in maybe a minute or minute and a half.
For whatever reason, I read up on this company one time a long time ago and they formulate it not to damage electronics. This version anyway. They have a bunch of different cleaning solvents for different applications. Automotive too which I would not use on microelectronics.
They have one you can actually spray on WHILE the equipment is running. For like computer servers where a shutdown is not ideal. That one's more expensive though.
I'm tellin ya.
Everybody should have a can around. I've had several nonfunctional mods, most not mine to be honest, but I open em up and soak the insides down. Everything but the screen. It probably wouldn't hurt a screen, but I just keep it from hitting the screen directly. I usually don't use the straw thing when it's an open target like that. Soak it down and let it run out all over the place.
If the problem has anything to do with juicy dirty corroded gunk somewhere, this stuff gets it out and the problems fixed. Until the next time they bring it to me fulla juice and dirt.
The quick dry one I linked to is what I use. A thin spray will dry in seconds and a soak down in maybe a minute or minute and a half.
I wondered about the screen. But with the Provari there wasn't any way of keeping the screen isolated. I figured it was dead anyway so it was worth the risk. Screen is working fine though.
I've seen people with mods that got juice on the edge of the screen. And it leaves a big black spot on the display.
I think thats what happen to my sxk bb 70...I got a drip down the bottom edge of my plate from the vapesnail and my screen just faded away to black. I've added a small oring under the insulators to tighten things up and it worked like a charm. But yeah I still have a black screen..
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Need a v2 bad..Such a good atty with a such a bad flaw..taste is superb thats why i want a v2, not a gold one.
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Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
I love my V2,but honestly,it isn't much better as far as leaking goes.I got mine with broken glass,so i siliconed the glass together and never had 1 leak with it.I bought some unbreakables from DNV,and juice would leak everywhere.I thought maybe the gasket had gotten nicked when the glass broke,so i ordered a new gasket,and a few plastic windows from Odis since he doesn't sell the actual glass anymore.With the new gasket,it was great for about a day,now,if i keep it full,very little leaking,when it gets to 1/2 a tank it will dump juice everywhere.If it wasn't such a great vape,i would smash it with a hammer haha.The leaking from the V1 was the reason i bought a V2,and still have to deal with it.Need a v2 bad..Such a good atty with a such a bad flaw..taste is superb thats why i want a v2, not a gold one.
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See thats what I like, honest no bs review. The truth is always appreciated amongst fellow vapers...
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The leaking possibly comes from the plastic windows not being thick enough as the glass. I would think glass also maintains its form of suction against the orings. Not to sure a about the plastic.
Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
The boxxer v2 was advertised as super leak proof. I quess that was with the glass..
Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
I can't deny it. This RBA has unseated the Xeta in my collection. Best vape I've had in a BB yet. I had to take the door off because of the glare. I have a Vapesnail now too, but haven't had a lot of time with it yet. Some sooper dooper pros with the Vapesnail, but as it stands now, the Bridg'd just vapes awesome.
That's what i'm thinking as well,which is why i don't understand,whenever the gold version finally gets released,it will have the plastic window and not glass.Although,i will say,the plastic from Odis leaks far less than the Dnv unbreakable.The Dnv would dump half the tank in about an hour,the one from Odis seals good until around 1/2 tank then starts to slowly leak.
I have Boxxers with both the original glass and the Odis unbreakables and find neither leaks. I have tried all the rba/bridges and for me the Boxxer and the EUC 0.5Ω ceramics are the best
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Can some please inform me on how I e would go about flipping there screen on the sxk billet box?
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