SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

[Croak]

And you can't really blame Yihi for the poor mechanical design of a MicroUSB connector. Mobile device manufacturers spend countless millions on warranty claims due to failed MicroUSB connectors that stem from "wear and tear" issues. And while Apple has milked their proprietary connectors for a lot of extra profit in licensing, they didn't go the 20-pin and then Lightning connector route on the iDevices primarily for the cash, they did it to cut down on failure issues.

Anyway, can't wait to see USB C connectors for mods.
USB Type-C Explained: What It Is and Why You’ll Want it

 

[TheotherSteveS]

And you can't really blame Yihi for the poor mechanical design of a MicroUSB connector. Mobile device manufacturers spend countless millions on warranty claims due to failed MicroUSB connectors that stem from "wear and tear" issues. And while Apple has milked their proprietary connectors for a lot of extra profit in licensing, they didn't go the 20-pin and then Lightning connector route on the iDevices primarily for the cash, they did it to cut down on failure issues.

Anyway, can't wait to see USB C connectors for mods.
USB Type-C Explained: What It Is and Why You’ll Want it

agreed except for the fact that my lightning conn on my iPhone5 went phut as it has to a lot of people. Better than the orginal 20-pin but still a bit flaky! Now USB-C is a different matter!!

 

[chia]

Changing out the batts are no big deal.. If only they can 'upgrade' the cap.. Make it fuss free

 

[BNEAT]

Changing batteries is a huge deal to me. I don't want to carry extra batteries for anything, and I definitely don't want to deal with a separate charger unless I absolutely have to.

Having said that, I don't go anywhere without spare batteries, and I have separate chargers at home and work

 

[jstrong]

My mini is about to go back. I was gonna wait for a new black one but now it is refund time. I find I enjoy the other brand that starts with "E" better. I get dry hits like heck at 30 joules and 430 with no vapor production on a .25 nickel build. 50 joules it gets super nasty and at 40 as well. If I turn the temp down it is muted.

 

[jstrong]

Even turning it down on the temp end no vapor production. When I put my Lemo 2 on my Vaporshark at 430 degrees and 40 watts it is smooth as butter and vapor production is 3 times what I get off my Mini. I am open for issues/suggestions before I get a refund.

 

[jazzvaper]

My mini is about to go back. I was gonna wait for a new black one but now it is refund time. I find I enjoy the other brand that starts with "E" better. I get dry hits like heck at 30 joules and 430 with no vapor production on a .25 nickel build. 50 joules it gets super nasty and at 40 as well. If I turn the temp down it is muted.

The Yihi "spec" of 0.065-0.12 is not, for me, a myth, or, hype.

On a 3mm rod/screwdriver I can build down to 0.10-0.12, which is suitable for "E" or 350J. Now, I use 28awg for "E" and 26awg for 350J.

Give that a try before returning it. Should make a world of difference.


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[dannyben]

My mini is about to go back. I was gonna wait for a new black one but now it is refund time. I find I enjoy the other brand that starts with "E" better. I get dry hits like heck at 30 joules and 430 with no vapor production on a .25 nickel build. 50 joules it gets super nasty and at 40 as well. If I turn the temp down it is muted.

Are you really @ a 0.25 nickel build? If so, that is your problem. Way too high! Try a build under 0.10 and you'll be golden.

The joules should be irrelevant to your issue. That is just how fast you ramp up to your desired temperature.

 

[jstrong]

Okay just rebuilt now at a 0.12 and still burnt tastes at 30 Joules 410 degrees Put it on my Shark again to compare and its butter so now what?​

 

[tchavei]

Lower the temperature and see how it goes? No sx mini here but seems logical?

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[jstrong]

Lower the temperature and see how it goes? No sx mini here but seems logical?

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

I will try that. I find it odd that my Vaporshark does great with the 0.12 build at 410 and my SX is burnt and puts out as much vapor as a Nautitlus Mini at 12 watts on my Lemo 2. My Vaporshark is chucking and my mini is clucking. I put it on my IPV4 to test out as well as my Vaporflask and same issue on the IPV4 and golden on the Flask

 

[dr g]

that makes no sense. Either it is good to use while charging or it isnt. It implies there is some problem if you do...crazy!

lol asking for sense in a yihi communication is a lost cause. seriously, that's typical, if not on the more informative and clear side.

 

[jstrong]

Okay now I am at 50 Joules and 320 and it is chucking but vape is not warm No burnt taste but not warm and vapor production went up

 

[jazzvaper]

I will try that. I find it odd that my Vaporshark does great with the 0.12 build at 410 and my SX is burnt and puts out as much vapor as a Nautitlus Mini at 12 watts on my Lemo 2. My Vaporshark is chucking and my mini is clucking. I put it on my IPV4 to test out as well as my Vaporflask and same issue on the IPV4 and golden on the Flask

I alternate, my fav flavor so in SX or VF, both on Kayfun 4's.

It is a different vape at "identical" settings. 370-390 on the SX is like 410-430 on the Flask. Now, strangely, 22J is like 19 (or 19.5) W.

You must (and I'm sure you have) experiment...I like both devices. By now I take that they perform differently as a FACT.


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[jazzvaper]

Okay now I am at 50 Joules and 320 and it is chucking but vape is not warm No burnt taste but not warm and vapor production went up

There was a prescription from 2shortlegs (?) that was prescient. More accurately, based on repeated attempts and search: Start low, and, build up.

I think your 50J is ridiculously high. No offense intended.

BTW "2legs" wound up with the opposite conclusion from you.


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[jstrong]

There was a prescription from 2shortlegs (?) that was prescient. More accurately, based on repeated attempts and search: Start low, and, build up.

I think your 50J is ridiculously high. No offense intended.

BTW "2legs" wound up with the opposite conclusion from you.


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None taken. I went down to 30 joules and vapor production went down.

 

[jazzvaper]

None taken. I went down to 30 joules and vapor production went down.

Then slowly raise the temp, a little at a time. You WILL find your spot.


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[wrice4]

Jstrong.

Make sure your 510 connections are solid and touching firmly. I had problems with my original lemo not hitting well on my ipv3 and ipv mini 2, but would hit great on another device. I figures out that the 510 was loose and jumping the ohms around on the ipv stuff but had little affect on the other drvice.

My lemo still does this time to time. Works perfect one day and the next day I get burnt hits and haven't touched the setup. Somehow the 510 center pin gets lose and doesn't make a good connection so it's sending mixed signals to the chip. Just make sure the center pin and 510 is tight on the atty, Maybe this will help

 

[Vlad1]

@jstrong

Jimscotty0 posted a nice way to setup your device if you haven't seen it I'd recommend the read.

Also if your getting burnt hit's I would be looking all over for a bad connection or improper sync or something of that nature. Setup properly you should not receive a dry hit. What gauge wire are you using and what size mandrel to get that .25Ω? Even if your using 30g it would take Edit: was looking at dual coil 24-25 12 wraps on a 3mm mandrel to get there??? That would be gigantic. ​

SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL) | Page 148 | E-Cigarette Forum

 

[Yozhik]

Plus if your Vaping on it while charging your probably putting some tension/bend on it even if ever so slightly.. The USB port is not covered under YiHi’s full one year warranty, and if loosened may result in connection issues and it not being able to apply firmware updates, and that would suck

Sounds like they are trying to protect us from what might be a "not that great" USB setup so better safe then sorry IMO

Micro-USB is rated for 10,000 cycles, but the weak point in any design is how the USB port connects to the PCB. If one wants to maximize the strength of the mechanical attachment, the USB port should be parallel with the board. This, for example, is how the iStick 20w/30w is designed. With the SX Mini, it's orthogonal to the board, which means the stresses you've talked about can have more impact on the solder joints.

Also, I'd say USB has always been optimistic about their durability. Mini-USB was supposed to last 5,000 cycles, but I had those fail well before that repeatedly.