SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

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Yozhik

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There's generally two ways to do temperature control that I'm aware of. The first method is to use a wire, such as nickel, whose resistance significantly changes with its temperature. Once the desired resistance is achieved that correlates to a desired temperature, one can dynamically adjust power from a battery to maintain that resistance. The second method is to monitor applied voltage and current and based on the known heating properties of the substance being vaporized, one can dynamically adjust the applied voltage and current to maintain a certain temperature. In the first method, a measurement of energy applied or consumed isn't likely to be relevant to the temperature control. That's because you're monitoring the resistance of a wire that significantly correlates with temperature. In the second method, a measurement of energy applied or consumed can be relevant to temperature control. For example, let's say I want to heat 1mL of water by 1 degree Celsius. To do that, I need to apply around 4.2 Joules to the water. So regardless of what voltage or current I chose, once I know that I've applied 4.2 J, I can stop heating the water.

So what method is the SX Mini using? Probably the first method. The reason for this is that the second method only works if you have precise knowledge of a considerable number of factors (e.g., the volume of what's being heated, the exact thermal properties of what is being heated, the energy efficiency of the heating element). With the considerable variety of atomizers and countless formulations of e-liquids, there's likely no way to easily determine all the relevant factors required to employ the second method in a variable-wattage regulated mod. In comparison, maybe you can do the second method in a pre-packaged e-cigeratte, because there you do have much more control over the operating environment.

So if the SX Mini isn't using Joules for temperature regulation, why provide it? One answer is that it's showing the amount of energy you're battery is able to supply. This allows the user to know how much they are going to get out of a battery before it needs to be recharged. In essence, it's like a puff counter, except that it's actually useful. First, rechargeable batteries lose the ability to supply energy over time and use, so knowing the amount of energy the battery has supplied can be useful to knowing when it needs to be replaced. A second aspect is that the ability of a battery to supply energy is related to the resistive load it is applied to. So it may be useful to users to see how using atomizers with different resistance affect the amount of energy that a battery can supply. Finally, you might also be able to figure out a number at which it's time to replace your atomizers/wicks/coils if you're using a consistent setup.

Finally, as to the idea of using Kanthal only in temperature control. It's resistance doesn't significantly change with temperature, so you can't use it with the first method described without super-sensitive sensors ($$$). You might be able to use it with the second method described, but as noted above that likely isn't feasible for a variable-wattage regulated mod. So chances are the 350J does not support Kanthal-only temperature control.

So what about twisted Kanthal/Nickel? Well, the thing to realize here is that the resistance of Nickel is much lower than that of Kanthal. Since the wires are in parallel, that means that all the current will pretty much pass through the Nickel wire and thus only heat the Nickel wire. The Kanthal wire would then have to absorb heat from the Nickel Wire before it could be of any use. This obviously delays the twisted coil from reaching the right temperature as fast as a pure nickel build. The presence of Kanthal will also make the temperature regulation less accurate. Personally, it doesn't make much sense to me to take this approach. The only benefit I can see of using Kanthal with Nickel is just to provide a physical structure on which to use Nickel wire, as some people find Nickel wire a bit difficult to work with.
 
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peterforpats

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I want to know how the F they fit (2) 18650s in the mini's body. That must be placeholder art or something.

they don't fit in the body of the sx mini-only one fits in the device and another goes into an additional add-on tube which hasn't been released yet. that is how yihi is claiming 120 watts. the sx mini without the tube extension is 60 watts. while most have commented how ugly the extension looks in pre-sale photos i am eagerly waiting for its release just to have and try at least once. then i am sure it will be safely tucked away never to see the light of day again.....
 

peterforpats

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Does anyone know where to preorder the SX350 M Class for $189.99? I found one or two places, but it's $199.99. I could've swore I saw it for $189.99 earlier in the day somewhere...or maybe the drugs haven't worn off yet.

the current version is $189- the new version will be $199 to avoid any confusion. maybe when the new one comes out they will let the "old" version to drop lower in price. it doesn't say if they plan to produce both versions or drop the old version without temp control once the new one is out. i hope they do produce both for those not interested in temp control and don't want to pay for it. my guess is once the new version comes out that will be the only version offered after the old stock disappears. but that is just a guess....
 

Yozhik

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I'm pretty tempted to buy this when it comes out. The only thing that gives me pause is the 500mA USB charge limit. That probably means at least 5 hours for a full charge. However, given that they don't know what specific 18650 battery people are going to throw in these, I guess staying at 500mA is the safe choice.
 

Kenho21

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I'm pretty tempted to buy this when it comes out. The only thing that gives me pause is the 500mA USB charge limit. That probably means at least 5 hours for a full charge. However, given that they don't know what specific 18650 battery people are going to throw in these, I guess staying at 500mA is the safe choice.

I would say it's best to get an external charger anyway honestly. They're fairly cheap, around $20 for a nice two bay or even four bay wouldn't be much more at all. I have a link to a really nice four bay for around $27 at home. I'll post it later if you're interested.

When charging batteries, a charger has to be careful to not overcharge them among other things that a charger should monitor. Leaving that solely up to a device makes me a little nervous, but you may or may not be perfectly fine (just a risk I'm not personally comfortable with). I have a link to a really nice Nitecore D4 at home for around $28 shipped for a four bay and I'm sure the two bay is even cheaper than that. I would recommend picking one up, but whatever you're doing to keep yourself off the real deal is great! Just keep doing it safely.
 

dannyben

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Anyone have a list of refinements done to this version? Did they modify the battery cap at all?

Besides the obviously new chip/board...

The 510 base ring is now polished, as well as the body being a brighter (less anodized) Silver.
The edges are all smoother and more rounded
The fire button is also rounded on the edges
2 New Colors -- Rose/Silver & Silver/Black

10978592_769173336505237_1466782124692848496_n.jpg
 

tc1

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Will the SX Mini M-class ship include an 18650 battery? If not, what 18650 would one recommend? Samsung 25R? Sony VTC4? I assume one is going to need a good 18650 for Nickel builds.

The two you listed will both work great. I personally use Sony VTC 5s and Samsung 25Rs in all of my devices.
 

peraspera

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Will the SX Mini M-class ship include an 18650 battery? If not, what 18650 would one recommend? Samsung 25R? Sony VTC4? I assume one is going to need a good 18650 for Nickel builds.

The SX350J specs state, "Battery required above 25 amps." The VCT4 is 30 amps but the Samsung 25R is only 20 amps. The Orbtronic SX30 (30 amps) is a reliable brand and is in stock .
 
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