SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

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Croak

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Right behind you...
That's not enough time to break those coils in mate. Fiddle with the temps as well, can make a big difference (or none, depending).

On an maybe related note, something else people need to work on is using legs as short as you can possibly get them and still remain secure.

On decks without post holes, if you can capture the legs on a screw post on just one side of the screw instead of doing a 90 to 180 wrap like you might with Kanthal, you'll find you get much more accuracy, since the boards are using the average resistance of the entire circuit, 510, atomizer, coil, and legs included. The less "slop" in that circuit, the better the results.
 
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Technonut

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PBusardo just mentioned in his Goblin rta video that he thinks it may be because of Evolv patents.

Just a reminder for folks since it's a few pages back now:

The topic of discussion here is the SXmini M Class.. Not who has patents, developed TP first, etc... Going forward from here, attempts to derail or disrupt this thread with off-topic discussion will NOT be tolerated..

I really don't like being this way about it, but most know where this thread will go if this kind of discussion begins.. I had a few complaints come in, and had to do something.. If it gets too far out of hand, I would be forced to shut it down, and that would be a shame since all has been going relatively well.. :)
 

2legsshrt

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Follow what Tony said that is the secret to success.

But I will throw in one thing that Tony didn't you and I are no spring chickens. No insult meant. But I have some trouble with taste also but I am fairly confident that my tasters don't function at peak performance anymore.

I find that if I have at least a couple of Attys on the coffee table and switch flavors it helps. If I stick with on flavor for hours for me it ends up like vaping unflavored PG/VG + Nic. Not bad but my taste buds seem to go flavor dead fairly quickly. I am seventy years old and haven't always been kind to my taste buds and olfactory system.

Not saying this is your problem but just suggesting you might want to consider that for some of us the first few puffs are great but ... well you get the idea. :blush:

PS - When I first stopped smoking and switched to vaping I couldn't taste any of the flavors. It took months to recover that which I have recovered but it sure isn't what I had when I was 30. :facepalm: Come to think of it that is true for most things in my life.

Yep i change flavors constantly have 6 going and switch off all the time. Doing one all the time gets boring. I have my favorites and I use them the most but if I want something different I go to the Strawberry Watermelon or Peach Mango but I really like Caramels and Creams
 

Vlad1

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What Bluesnake said ^^^^

Vlad did you clean the wire before wrapping the coil?

I didn't clean it with alcohol or anything. On a couple of the coils I did dry burn them prior to wicking though. I'll give it more time to see if it breaks in and goes away. All contacts are clean and rock solid. This is on a new Subtank mini so legs are very short and wrapped around nice and tidy under the screws. Right now it has a 28g, 3mm, 10 wrap contact coil reading at .15 which is about right according to steamengine but still tasting funny.
 

tchavei

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I didn't clean it with alcohol or anything. On a couple of the coils I did dry burn them prior to wicking though. I'll give it more time to see if it breaks in and goes away. All contacts are clean and rock solid. This is on a new Subtank mini so legs are very short and wrapped around nice and tidy under the screws. Right now it has a 28g, 3mm, 10 wrap contact coil reading at .15 which is about right according to steamengine but still tasting funny.
Why am I the only one that can't get a 10 wrap coil of the same wire above 0.1?

I must have some superconductor somewhere :/

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
 

Vlad1

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Why am I the only one that can't get a 10 wrap coil of the same wire above 0.1?

I must have some superconductor somewhere :/

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

It's difficult to measure low resistances accurately and devices that do are typically very expensive. Are you wrapping much smaller coil diameters? Is it possible your device isn't measuring correctly? One way to verify would be to setup a voltage divider circuit then measure the voltage drop across your loads then calculate the actual resistance.
 

Vlad1

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I dunno then, some claim to taste a "nasty oil" presumably used in the manufacturing process.
I always wipe the wire with alcohol but I won't suggest it is complete necessary, cheap insurance though. ;)

Perhaps a hot spot (short) in the coil?

Shouldn't be any hotspots, the one in now is a contact coil I pre-burned and it was glowing nice inside to out. I will take the wick out once this tanks gone and double check though. Only have about half a tank left now and with the rba head down there that's really not that much juice so hopefully the taste will go away by the time I start hitting TC limits.
 

Vlad1

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Everyone can go up vote the SXmini M class in Pbusardo review que to maybe get some charts / graphs and all the techy stuff from him sooner. :) Only has 3 votes atm.

Taste Your Juice | REVIEW QUEUE VOTING

Bump
Up to 87 now. Not sure how much this influences what he has on the bench testing or how expeditiously it will be tested. But it only takes a sec to vote so not a hard task to complete.
 

a tez

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Just a reminder for folks since it's a few pages back now:



I really don't like being this way about it, but most know where this thread will go if this kind of discussion begins.. I had a few complaints come in, and had to do something.. If it gets too far out of hand, I would be forced to shut it down, and that would be a shame since all has been going relatively well.. :)

I understand. I'm not trying to start a war ( I own the SX Mini and DNA 40 devices), just mentioning what a reputable reviewer believes. I wont say anything else about it. :)
 

a tez

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Anyone else not coming remotely close to the temps they have set? I'm running a 3mm 10 wrap 28g build coming in at .156ohms and I have it set at 400F and 30J. I am barely breaking 300F and mostly staying in the 290s. The vape is pretty warm as well. Either my wicking is incredible or something is up. Using Placid from Adirondack Vapor 70vg/30pg. Running this in a Subtank Plus RTA.
 

ZeroOhm

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Still don't see the point of displaying joules over wattage ...

I'd much rather know the throttle point of my current build and what my current power level is than how many joules my device is set for in the first second.
Speak to evolv! Without starting tedious flaming we all know what's going on ;) and why YiHi implemented TP this way there are more than one blind and deaf evolv fanatics who are willing to be hostile.

Its a pity the 350J will only ever be in a few mods. The less DNA40 mods I have the better;)

Before I get warned (as I have just read techno's moderation) I am looking forward to trying mine (it was delivered a couple of days ago but I need to collect it) looks like the M class general release and availability was world wide and we didnt have to wait weeks here in the UK to get one!
 
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Technonut

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Anyone else not coming remotely close to the temps they have set? I'm running a 3mm 10 wrap 28g build coming in at .156ohms and I have it set at 400F and 30J. I am barely breaking 300F and mostly staying in the 290s. The vape is pretty warm as well. Either my wicking is incredible or something is up. Using Placid from Adirondack Vapor 70vg/30pg. Running this in a Subtank Plus RTA.


Using a SMOK Gimlet with the coil head reading 0.22 @ 425F / 25.0J, the temp is hitting right in that area...
 

Carnage9270

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I've found some serious love in twisting kanthal in with my nichrome. I'm using 32ga kanthal with the stealthvape tempered ni200 wire. It twists up really good and makes the wire very easy to wrap. Using this on my subtank mini deck to keep the coils nice and small. 5 wraps around a 3mm screwdriver and it's coming in at .21. I get 0 fluctuation in the coil and vapes like a dream.

.21 at 21 watts with 420 degrees set.
 
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a tez

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Using a SMOK Gimlet with the coil head reading 0.22 @ 425F / 25.0J, the temp is hitting right in that area...

Interesting. I wonder what can be happening then. I had a .11ohm build in earlier and it was hovering around 400F the whole time. This coil is built well and has a tight connection. Spaced and nothing touching.

EDIT- I just reset the resistance and now it's coming in at .136ohm and staying around 400F.
 
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tchavei

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It's difficult to measure low resistances accurately and devices that do are typically very expensive. Are you wrapping much smaller coil diameters? Is it possible your device isn't measuring correctly? One way to verify would be to setup a voltage divider circuit then measure the voltage drop across your loads then calculate the actual resistance.
It's a 2.5mm mandrel. Steam engine says it should be around 0.12 and it comes out at 0.1

I'm puzzled because it doesn't seem to be an device error or tolerance. For example, if I wrap 13 winds, steam engine says it should be 0.16 and it comes out at 0.13

It's like my spool of 28g has less ohm per feet as others.

Steam engine is calculating each extra wrap as 0.012 but my devices are reading every wrap at 0.01 Ohms. The higher the wrap count, the bigger difference between steam engine calcs and my devices ones.

I first thought, ok it's just steam engine that is calculating things differently but there are a bunch of people with 10 wraps with same or similar id that get in the 0.15 range... That's 50% more than what I'm getting :/

Regards
Tony

Ps: water test gives me 99c-100c on that device so the resistance is being read correctly)

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
 
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tchavei

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Anyone else not coming remotely close to the temps they have set? I'm running a 3mm 10 wrap 28g build coming in at .156ohms and I have it set at 400F and 30J. I am barely breaking 300F and mostly staying in the 290s. The vape is pretty warm as well. Either my wicking is incredible or something is up. Using Placid from Adirondack Vapor 70vg/30pg. Running this in a Subtank Plus RTA.
Do the water test... Soak a wick in water and fire the mod. It should settle at 212F or similar regardless of set temperature. If it's way off, something is wrong (bad read of resistance for example)

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
 

Vlad1

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So I've either found a bug, glitch or overlooked something in the manual. Now that I've been playing with the TC settings I notice after altering the temperature or joules and coming out of the menu screen the display shows what appears to me as a random number. Hitting the fire button once displays the correct setting I had previously set it to. As if that field is not refreshing or updating correctly coming out of the menu but then reloading that field once the fire button is pressed.
 
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