SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

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dam718

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You should be fine with 30 Gauge on the Subtank rba section! I would do 9-10 wraps around a 3mm screwdriver to get around .2ohms but even if you want to shoot a little lower say .15-.17 you will have no problem on the M class. I've had great results with 7 wraps with 30 gauge in my subtank on both my VS dna 40 and my SX Mini M Class. I will say though that 28 gauge is so much easier to work with and the Temco 28 gauge NI200 is the only thing I've been building with now! I run at .11 and it's working great on my SX Mini.

Edit: Also don't rule out twisted 30 gauge for some extra stability!

Thanks for the info! I have some 32AWG kanthal that I was going to try twisting with it. Seems some folks have had good luck with that combo


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TheotherSteveS

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I should receive both the mod and NI200 today. Bought 28 and 30 AWG tempered from Stealthvape. How are you guys finding out if there are any hot spots since you can't really glow it?

Wrap spaced coils and make sure the coil doesn't touch the deck/posts etc anywhere and you should be good to go.I say this because you may find yourself wrapping pretty big coils and deck space becomes an issue. Some people do glow them but I haven't been brave enough as yet and haven't had a problem.

Glad you went for it btw!!

steve
 

shortlex

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Its my impression that I am needing to lower temp and joules a lot compared with the DNA40 clone to get a similar vape (same atty/juice/coil/tee-shrt/hairstyle etc). Anyone else??
With same atomizer 0.15 ohm (kayfun4) SX 30 Joules. Dna 40 13,5 W all 420 F nearly the same in a quick test

Inviato dal mio L200G
 

TheotherSteveS

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With same atomizer 0.15 ohm (kayfun4) SX 30 Joules. Dna 40 13,5 W all 420 F nearly the same in a quick test

Inviato dal mio L200G

Mille grazie!

ok thats interesting. Im still not sure what is going on with this Joules things but clearly they are not straightforwardly interchangeable with watts on a DNA40. Thinking about it, the difference is much less for me with the Subtank mini and a Ti build, as opposed to a rda (magma) with Ni. Hmmmmmmmm!!
 

Yerba

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Hi guys. Need to thank you all for the excellent info I'm finding here. This will be my first box mod and, like somebody else said, love to get the newest/shiniest/fully loaded stuff available at the moment.
Got a couple of questions for you since you can say I'm new to high wattage devices:
* currently owning two AW IMR 18650 3.7V 2200 mHa 20A batteries; are those good enough? If no, which one should I get?
* Ni200 wire. No experience at all. Own a Kayfun V4, Vertex 2 and Plume Veil attys; what kind (tempered, twisted?) and gauge should I order?

Once more, THANKS a lot for helping so much. I'm the only vaper in my family/friends circle, so all my knowledge comes from Reading, watching videos and the painfull, but necessary, making-mistakes-to-learn system.
 

TheotherSteveS

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Hi there Yerba!

Dont kno about AW batts but I have a samsung 25R in there and it is very fine so I imagine you will be ok. As for wire, I have been using 0.3mm normal Ni200 (which is 28.5g or something like that) and like it. You might want to get some 30 and 32g while you are at it. Twisted 32 is really good. I have also used tempered/hardened wire and whilst it is less prone to breaking etc, it is a very different beast. Very springy. You can harden Ni200 yourself. There a couple of ways to do it and its good exercise lol!

You might want to check out people's experiences with the Kayfun as I think there are connectivity issues but I don't have one...

have fun!

steve
 

ZeroOhm

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Eventually after arriving a couple of days ago I picked up my M Class today.

Feels great impressed but as others have said there are some fit issues with the C frame.

I only tried a STM @ 0.06ohm NI200 seems a bit warmer on the vape compared to one of my DNA40s (and evolv say above .1) but I know its a subjective comparison at this point until we get to fully understand how the 350J is working.

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I am not an evolv fan after all the problems and have 4 different evolv 40 mods all different revisions;)

The battery question even though the AW batteries are highly regarded and almost twice the price of for example a Purple 35A Efest (or rewrapped LG HE2) there not in the same league as other batteries, maybe safety wise but 25Rs, HE2/4s, VTC4/5s all seem to handle higher current discharges better.

I am not convinced the AWs are good at 20A constant;)

Curiously YiHi states a Max of 30A on the input so top flight batteries are a must I know the Samsung 25R is good for 30A.

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One thing I noted on the 350J I like the Atty setup but man its not fun navigating the extra menus and I have had a dozen SX350 and SX350 Mini mods!;)

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tchavei

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All those submenus were kind of throwing me off from buying one for sure.
Don't see a reason why to change temp and joules you'd have to go through the crap that comes after that, like link, screen state etc
Because it's cool :)

Besides, do you prefer the chip doing everything for you and the day you have a problem, you can't adjust anything because the chip makes all decisions (tight and wrong) for you?

Regards
Tony

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tommytwotime

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I've been lurking in the thread for the last week. I've been using my SX Mini M class for 2 days. Temp control is working great. I've been wrapping 32g Nickel around a #4-40 screw and making some easy spaced coils. Currently have builds in the Tobeco Kayfun 4, the Subtank Mini RBA, Magma and Derringer. All single coil builds. I attempted dual coil in the Magma but had issues with hot legs. Any tips on avoiding those? Zero dry hits. Vapour production is not insane, but the flavour is. Any builds I should try? The current thread on Nickel builds is a behemoth.
 

tommytwotime

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All those submenus were kind of throwing me off from buying one for sure.
Don't see a reason why to change temp and joules you'd have to go through the crap that comes after that, like link, screen state etc

I'm not sure I understand. I go into the menu and can adjust Joules,Temp, Temp Unit, then Exit. The other menu options can be avoided for quick adjustments to Temp settings.
 

Sptz

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Because it's cool :)

Besides, do you prefer the chip doing everything for you and the day you have a problem, you can't adjust anything because the chip makes all decisions (tight and wrong) for you?

Regards
Tony

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No ofc not haha. I'm not saying to remove those options. Just the way you adjust TEMP and JOULES should be made simpler and easier. That's all.
 

Sptz

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m00shie

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Been waiting for so long and finally, SX Mini M Class arrived in my country and immediately went and bought it.

sxmini.jpg


Image side by side with my old IPV Mini. Not much difference in terms of size but the quality is way superior. I immediately fell in love with the feel of the mod on my hands...just feels right and the firing button makes you want to press it non-stop.

On performance aspect, I have not have time to put on a ni200 coil yet as I got it just 20 minutes ago..so I can't comment on Temp Control yet. I'm currently vaping on Kanthal 0.86ohm coil. Vaping at 19W (the same wattage on my IPV Mini) and set to powerful mode. The difference is huge! Strangely, I'm getting much more flavor and cloud. I'm really loving this mod. I can't wait test the Temp Control feature.

sxmini2.jpg
 

Vlad1

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All those submenus were kind of throwing me off from buying one for sure.
Don't see a reason why to change temp and joules you'd have to go through the crap that comes after that, like link, screen state etc

You don't have to go into all the sub menu's.

Hitting the fire button once, then hitting the up button to choose which memory location you want to adjust, then hitting the down button to set adjustment, then adjusting up or down with the respective button. So if you find it difficult to navigate the sub menus using the switches will work for you without going through the other settings. Personally the ability to use either switches or gravity sensor is part of what makes this device what it is. The full feature set and capability to fit the needs of a wide range of users whether advanced or beginners.

Edit: Actually don't even need to hit the fire button initially. You can just hit the up button to select your memory location then make the adjustments.
 
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