SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)
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Excellent point and a good reminder. Connections need to be rock solid for TC. I've never used a Lemo 2 but I know there have been comments about difficulties on occasion with getting good solid contacts.
Duane
I've had no problems with the Lemo 2 since bopping the AFC 510 pin with a rubber mallet and putting the wires under the screw heads. Most common issue is people put the wires through the side hole and get blazing hot leg flavor as a result.
.05 - .30 ohms using Ni200, suggested target is .065 but .16 ohms should work. I would recommend less wraps to bring down the ohms.
To hit .16 at 11 wraps, I believe your coil is at least 3mm, correct? Make sure you set the temp after the RDA / mini have cooled down.
I run hotter 450-475 others prefer lower on the temp and 25j to start. Adjust the joules until you hit your sweet spot. If you still get dry hits, you need to adjust your wicking method.. either too tight or too loose.
I've had no problems with the Lemo 2 since bopping the AFC 510 pin with a rubber mallet and putting the wires under the screw heads. Most common issue is people put the wires through the side hole and get blazing hot leg flavor as a result.
And we won't even mention what those ridiculously long legs do to the temperature reading when averaged in with the coil that is in contact with the wet wick.
PS - My SXM reads low with Temco Ni200 26 Ga. 0.12 ohms (8 turns) With my TP set to 350F and running at 27.5 joules (don't ask) I get a nice slightly warm vape and never hit TP. As a matter of fact I can just hold it watching the display and it will idle on its own at 300 to 325F as long as the wick stays wet and with a 4.5mm wick that is a long time in a Lemo 2. Also I use the Sterling Silver crimp eyelets to connect to the screw post. Not those crazy holes about 3.5 feet down the side of the build deck.
And we won't even mention what those ridiculously long legs do to the temperature reading when averaged in with the coil that is in contact with the wet wick.
PS - My SXM reads low with Temco Ni200 26 Ga. 0.12 ohms (8 turns) With my TP set to 350F and running at 27.5 joules (don't ask) I get a nice slightly warm vape and never hit TP. As a matter of fact I can just hold it watching the display and it will idle on its own at 300 to 325F as long as the wick stays wet and with a 4.5mm wick that is a long time in a Lemo 2. Also I use the Sterling Silver crimp eyelets to connect to the screw post. Not those crazy holes about 3.5 feet down the side of the build deck.
When I read your post, I thought what the heck are Sterling Silver crimp eyelets? I read your other posts and followed the links. Pretty cool idea. I'm going to try this on my normal twisted coil builds to minimize the hot legs. Thanks!
The Sterling Silver crimps make two TC problems go away, Hot Legs and Erratic Connections. The first couple of times you use them you may end up cussing at them they are a little small to work with but just think back to your first Ni200 coil which gave me a big case of buyer remorse for investing in a TC Mod. But trust me once you do it and it works the process becomes easier each time you do it. Now that I have said that if you build with 26 Ga Ni200 and the Crimps your biggest problem will be remembering how you did it that last time because the the coil and crimps will last for months.
I change the wicks and use a little acid brush to clean any crud off the coil and it is good to go for another month or two.
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Thank you all for the information and tips. Will try my luck when i get back home.
I've had no problems with the Lemo 2 since bopping the AFC 510 pin with a rubber mallet and putting the wires under the screw heads. Most common issue is people put the wires through the side hole and get blazing hot leg flavor as a result.
How do you bop the AFC 510 pin? Sorry i'm new to all these.
Thanks
On the Lemo 2, there is a connection problem with the 510 pin and firing it in a mod. The mallet is in reference to pounding the 510 pin to get a connection with the positive screw on the lemo.
You can read about it here..
Eleaf Lemo II | Page 27 | E-Cigarette Forum
For those that follow PBusardo on YouTube, check out the eVic-VT video he recently put up. He does some temp comparisons with the eVic, SX, and DNA. Pretty good I think.
I will watch that one later as I am half way though this one
It's very intersting when they go into temp control, that Mr B said the M class is the best he has found so far. I agree with that as I only use my M class now. Also, Mr B likes his Kayfuns best with temp control as I have found too. But I just have to agree that the business really needs to get legislation before these higher power MODS get developed. Focussing on the smoker and not the enthusiast. Only then I believe we should promote cloud chassing devices. It's not that I care what people vape. It's more about educating the masses on this tech. All the MFGs should be investing in the science and not how powerful their devices are. Such a long way to go
But I am in LOVE with my M Class and kayfun V4s. Everything is working perfecly for me. Happy days people even if we have some way to go.
Take care all,
Circling back to my earlier display Charging glitch, I just noticed that the battery symbol is back! I haven't contacted Yihi yet. Weird...
My first SX Mini M will be here tomorrow
Are you getting a wrap, silicon case, double bagging it or running it naked?
You're about three steps further on than any thoughts I'd had
So far I had just assumed I'd run it 'naked'!What is 'double bagged'?? That doesn't sound like anything I'd want to do to an expensive, reasonably good looking mod
Double bagged is what you do when you're a little sketched out, and it was like only 20 bucks, or really inexpen...wait, what are we talking about?You're about three steps further on than any thoughts I'd had
What is 'double bagged'?? That doesn't sound like anything I'd want to do to an expensive, reasonably good looking mod
THE WGU CLUB
You're about three steps further on than any thoughts I'd had
What is 'double bagged'?? That doesn't sound like anything I'd want to do to an expensive, reasonably good looking mod
Putting a wrap on it and a silicon case. Sometimes you want maximum protection with the case.. and sometimes you want to enjoy the beauty of the workmanship out of the case but still protect it. Hopefully, the issues on the previous production runs have paint that doesn't scratch off as easily
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