SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)
- Thread starter whitewidows
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
If your having issues with the silicon case stretching or sliding up there is a simple fix. Boil some water and put the case in for about a minute or two. Remove the case and cool it with cold water, wipe off the water and voila! The case is good as new and will not slip.
I bought a silicone case from Ginger and I am having the slippage problem every time I put it in my pocket and then take it back out I always have to re adjust it. Gets annoying after awhile. The sleeve that you have is that the authentic yihi sleeve? I know there was a few generics made which I think mine is and then there was authentic yihi versions.
This cover I have is the generic sleeve that had covered buttons and is kind of thick. The fix I mentioned will work on all silicone based sleeves. It doesn't matter if it's yihi or not. I like the uncovered buttons on the yihi case and will get one soon as well. I had the slippage problem too but did not want to use double-sided tape because I was unsure how it would affect the finish of the sxm.
Okay. I have several temperature protection mods. Most of them use the evolv chip. I didn't care much for them at all. The SX Mini has forced me to reevaluate this concept. I'm a little fuzzy on one thing. Example. 420 degrees at 22 joules. 420 degrees is 420 degrees. An increase in joules shouldn't matter on the temp. The only thing higher joules should dictate is how fast you get to 420. That's what my reasoning is. If I am in need of correction, could someone be so kind as to offer me a link or a post to set me straight? I would greatly appreciate it.
Tapped From My LG G4
Tapped From My LG G4
You are correct, but too much Joules will cause the chip to jump too high and then have to relax to achieve temp. This happens more and more as you increase the needed Joules to achieve your temperature setting. Settle for the just the amount of joules you need and not too much.
Got mine today and it fits like a glove. It can't really slip because it is held on at the top and bottom perfectly. The only getting used to is that the fire button sits flush with the case so you will need to depress it slightly and the up down buttons are a little harder to depress but not too bad.
Overall I think it is about as good as you can get with a silicone sleeve type.
Joules' Setting seems to depend solely on the Coils and Configuration of.
However, from all I've read here from all who are participating, 17.5 to 22 J seems to get the Job done nicely and smoothly for both Ni & Ti in all Set-Ups.
If someone is differing from the above, let me/is know and also what Set-Up you are running.
However, from all I've read here from all who are participating, 17.5 to 22 J seems to get the Job done nicely and smoothly for both Ni & Ti in all Set-Ups.
If someone is differing from the above, let me/is know and also what Set-Up you are running.
Maybe I'm doing it wrong, but I have not experienced that at all. Temps for me vary atty to atty to achieve the a similar vape, and the J definitely make a difference, only thing I run around 22J is my STmini, on my zephyrus right now at 35J, turned it down to 22J and the vapor was much weaker.
Actually both of you are correct IMHO. It all depends on the build, atty, atty internal resistance, ejuice, coil diameter, vertical or horizontal coils, wicking, single or dual coils, personal vaping preferences. My temperature varies anywhere from 390F to 520F and my Joules varies between around 16J t0 32J too. I always shoot for the lowest of each that does the job I desire at the time. Even my mood may make me make an adjustment. With my Zephyrus dual coil .121 ohm Ti TC build, I need around 500F with 28-30J to have it keep up. With my Lemo 2 single coil using NI200 with a .07 ohm build I usually do 400F and 22J. With the Kangertech Mini in Ti .255 ohms, single coil, 2.5mm build, I found 465F with 16.5J was just right.
That being said, using the SXM v2.23 in Ti mode I have found you need to bump up the temperature setting about 70-80F to keep it the equivalent as what you would expect in NI200 mode. Their Ti mode needs some work on their algorithm to match the NI200 mode and maybe for some better regulation although I have been using it for several days now steadily and find that it works fairly well. Not everyone has had that experience so it may be the combination of the various variables that may need some tuning.
Awesome man I will report back after I get the water boiled hopefully this will solve the problem that I have been having. Also for anyone who did the newest update I don't know if this is just a problem I am having or other are experiencing the same problem. I updated to the most recent firmware I then put on my subtank with a Ni200 coil and I had previously used the coil and tank so it wasn't fresh however when I went to fire I got the "dry coil no e liquid" message I played around with it and couldn't get it to fire and I had the coil wet to the point it was almost leaking. I tried a new Ni200 coil and saturated that one as well and I got the same message is there a fix to this or what can I do?
Did you use the UP/DN button press to re-lock the resistance?
Yes, there is a "fix".
After the update, you have to lock in the coil resistance again. Doesn't matter that it is a coil you had on there previously. With the SX and coil both at room temperature, press and hold the + and - buttons.
Ya know, now that I think about it, I was wrong. We really don't know what exactly are ANY Norms in Ti Profile on this thing as the Firmware "Ain't Right". I am running the L2 (Dan's Fave 
) loaded with Ti on the Ni200 Profile at 20J & 275* F. By accepted common Practice, when applying that way, as prescribed by the Ti Masters before there even was a Ti Test Firmware,,,, We are supposed to lower the Temp by around 100* & the Joules by around 10. So, given those tweaked Parameters and Practice, if the FW was acting "right", that would be an equivalent of @30J & 375* F if running in a properly functioning Ti Profile.
My Bad Bros.
I type corrected and humbled... Now, We Nap.
AntMan Matinee at 1:35. Old Comic Nerd and Marvel Geek giddy with anticipation.
Of course will be Vaping the SubBox & STM with Ni200 OCC whilst indulging my Geekness...
) loaded with Ti on the Ni200 Profile at 20J & 275* F. By accepted common Practice, when applying that way, as prescribed by the Ti Masters before there even was a Ti Test Firmware,,,, We are supposed to lower the Temp by around 100* & the Joules by around 10. So, given those tweaked Parameters and Practice, if the FW was acting "right", that would be an equivalent of @30J & 375* F if running in a properly functioning Ti Profile. My Bad Bros.
I type corrected and humbled... Now, We Nap.
AntMan Matinee at 1:35. Old Comic Nerd and Marvel Geek giddy with anticipation.
Of course will be Vaping the SubBox & STM with Ni200 OCC whilst indulging my Geekness...
Did some more water testing. Because I had to calibrate at 78°F ambient temperature (the SX mini assumes 68°F), I am adding 10°F to the results this time.
With a Ni200 coil I'm getting 165°F. This is in accordance with my guess that the M uses a linear approximation of the T/R curve with higher deviation at low temperatures. No problem, because no one vapes at these temperatures. However, it prevents the water test to produce meaningful results with Ni200.
I also repeated the test with Titanium. This time, I ended up with lower temperatures around 190°F. Checked connections, re-calibrated, etc. Temperatures still a too low. Finally, I decided to build another coil (same atomizer) which gave me 205-210°F.
Does anyone have a problem with screen off center?
Mine is a little off and top part is 2-3mm away from the housing while bottom sits flush.
Is there a way to align the screen properly if I open the device?
Mine is a little off and top part is 2-3mm away from the housing while bottom sits flush.
Is there a way to align the screen properly if I open the device?
Hey I was wondering what do you have to do with the new YiHi sleeves when you change the battery. Do you roll up the bottom side or what. It looks like it partially covers the cap is that right?
I am considering getting the new ones. I have 3 of the GV ones but the YiHi look like a lot better fit. I did use the double sided tape but I have carbon fiber Jwraps under. I was going to wait for the YiHi cause I liked the fact the buttons were exposed but everyone said that these were probably better cause you wouldn't get dust under so once again I ordered them and the next day YiHi came out with theirs.
- Status
