SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

[GeorgeS]

Don't try Ti if you are like me you won't go back to nickel and you will have a surplus like me also a surplus of kanthal oh and it is perfect for lazy vapers cause you don't need to recoil very often.

I suppose the added stiffness/springyness allows for rewicking and cleaning a TI coil without deforming the coil more so than Ni. Currently I'm in the habit of replacing both long before they need to be as my desire to experiment outweighs whatever fractional cost of materials are.

The one Ni coil I did end up cleaning was rather little effort - I just stuck it under a faucet for a few minutes and all the 'gunk' was washed away. (after +2 weeks of service)

All my 'subohm' tanks are now outfitted with TC. I've gone as far as labeling the 'TI' outfitted ones so that I have some warning before mounting them as out of 4 TC mods only one has a native "TI" mode (I have not 'upgraded' my SXM), the IPV4S in TI mode 'just works'.

Last night I made use of the torch I use to start the BBQ and aimed it at a "springy coil" of TI - a little heat got rid of that nasty springyness like a charm.

I don't own any Kanthal, however have 28-32 Ni and now 24-32 Ti wire.

While I enjoy reading the 'glowing' reviews and testimonials of those that have 'made the switch' to Ti wire, in my mind the Ti wire is much more expensive and a PITA to work with. The much higher resistance does changes the winding: a 0.3 target is 7/6 wraps 26AWG Ti vs 9/8 32AWG Ni. However, outside of being more mechanically robust I'm not quite sure Ti wire is doing anything for me.

 

[HolmanGT]

Not a "Sleeve Guy"... can't get past the Aesthetics of the Things. Ordered 2 J-Wraps the day I ordered the SXMM and put one on soon as they arrived.
No Paint Issues. None that I can see anyways. If ya can't see it,,, it doesn't exist. All Good. Ta-Da

Anyone ever remove the Taco and have it Hydro-coated? Might be a better lasting Solution if One doesn't like Wraps for whatever Reason.

@Hitcat44 "If a tree falls int the woods..."

I don't know what Hydro-coat is but I saw on that a guy had removed the Taco Shell and had it either polished and/or chromed. Look really nice.

 

[Hitcat44]

@Hitcat44 "If a tree falls int the woods..."

I don't know what Hydro-coat is but I saw on that a guy had removed the Taco Shell and had it either polished and/or chromed. Look really nice.

It's a commonly used Process for durably coating a plethora of Items and Parts from Weapons to Auto Parts/Pieces to Electronics. It can be done in a myriad of Patterns and Schemes like Camo, Snake-Skin, Leather, Metals, Carbon-Fiber, etc. Here is a Source I found that has several Examples and explains the Process (I have ZERO affiliation with them and am not a Rep nor am I "plugging" this particular Vendor): Gallery :: texashydrocoating.com
From what I have seen, there are many such Vendors all over the U.S. (probably the World). We have 3 such here in the W. KY area.
Looks great with tons of options and is quite durable and lasting.
Gonna try one of my Devices over the Winter. May do it to an SX350j VF IF I can figure out a way to Fund the Acquisition and not infringe on the Family Financial Necessities & Priorities

 

[HolmanGT]

It's a commonly used Process for durably coating a plethora of Items and Parts from Weapons to Auto Parts/Pieces to Electronics. It can be done in a myriad of Patterns and Schemes like Camo, Snake-Skin, Leather, Metals, Carbon-Fiber, etc. Here is a Source I found that has several Examples and explains the Process (I have ZERO affiliation with them and am not a Rep nor am I "plugging" this particular Vendor): Gallery :: texashydrocoating.com
From what I have seen, there are many such Vendors all over the U.S. (probably the World). We have 3 such here in the W. KY area.
Looks great with tons of options and is quite durable and lasting.
Gonna try one of my Devices over the Winter. May do it to an SX350j VF IF I can figure out a way to Fund the Acquisition and not infringe on the Family Financial Necessities & Priorities

That looks pretty nice Hitcat. I don't know how much effort it is to remove the clamshell but the one I saw opened up looked like one wire to the clamshell and the bat tube was attached to the clamshell but I couldn't see how it was attached.

Seem to me it shouldn't be pretty easy if you take your time and don't rush the process.

 

[Hitcat44]

My thinking as well.... But, realizing, appreciating, and accepting both my Strengths and my Limitations/Weaknesses equally, I will wait for someone better suited to do the disassembly successfully then post a "How-To"

 

[Unior]

Good stuff. That is how I justify all my purchases, as multiples of take out deliveries. I may now have reached the point where I could have bought the restaurant.

If you haven't already got one, the Aspire Triton is another tank I'm digging. It's my first coil head tank purchase since my first month of vaping (I'm not counting the Gv2 here). Great flavour, top fill, and (some of) the coils are Stainless Steel which give TC in a mod with TCR adjustment (SXK DNA 40 clones; Dicodes chip; DNA 200). I believe there's an optional RTA deck as well but I've not looked at that.

The coils appear to have excellent conductivity: they're labelled as 0.40Ω and actually read 0.40Ω on my mods, where other coil heads measure up to 0.05Ω too high. I thought it could be that the coil was actually 0.37Ω or something, and so the static resistance in the coil head was hidden, but the fact that they work with TC even with the basic SXK chip means they must have a good connection and accurate resistance, because Stainless Steel is right at the lower limits of accuracy even with a proper coil in an RTA.

Definitely my best coil head tank (again not counting the Gv2), though I don't have a huge amount to compare to: before this I only had two cheapo Smoks (GCT, VCT), the Atlantis v1 and the Subtank Mini v1. I skipped the whole second/third gen of coil heads until this Triton.

I just ordered a Triton myself. Should be here in the next day or so. This is the first tank in a while I have bought that uses pre-made coils. I never liked the STM occ coils. Back in the day(which was really only 5-6 months ago actually!) I had much better luck & reliability out of the Aspire Nautilus products. So looking forward to something I don't have to fiddle with & can just grab & go. I do have a question though, you can't use the SS coils in temp. control on the SXMM, correct?

 

[rythus]

I found SX Mini M class listed for 139 for silver, 169 for black or mixed on vape-guru.com. I thought they were price locked, is this legit? Seller says they are covered under warranty for sure.

 

[ThunderDan]

I just ordered a Triton myself. Should be here in the next day or so. This is the first tank in a while I have bought that uses pre-made coils. I never liked the STM occ coils. Back in the day(which was really only 5-6 months ago actually!) I had much better luck & reliability out of the Aspire Nautilus products. So looking forward to something I don't have to fiddle with & can just grab & go. I do have a question though, you can't use the SS coils in temp. control on the SXMM, correct?

That is correct. Maybe in the future if SS gets support in a firmware update, but not right now.

 

[AstroTurf]

That's not good!!!! My only negative about mod is the finish. I'm on #3. On the positive side Yihi has been good replacing them.
Guess you can't have it all but it would be nice.


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Number 3???

Is that 3 purchased or 3 trying to get one right?


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[Jake67]

Number 3???

Is that 3 purchased or 3 trying to get one right?


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Actually all 3 have been perfect. Did have some issues with the paint but the great thing about Yihi is that they not only honor the chip but also the finish. I can't think of any other mod maker that does that.
If you're looking for a mod that you can continuously upgrade from the comfort of your home I strongly recommend the SX M. Not to mention TC , Nickel, and Ti.
Hope this helps.
Forgot to mention the design of the mod itself. Outstanding !!!!
If you already own one you already know all this.


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[AstroTurf]

How does it compare to the ZNA by Zen in aesthetics/build quality.

The power that I require is less than 30 watts.

Thanks, Jim


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[Jake67]

I like the feel of the SX better than the ZNA.
I was going to buy a ZNA but when the original maker of the unit posted on their site that they were servicing all the clones I was disappointed. That was a deal breaker for me.
Anyway I don't want to derail this thread. Cheers.


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[Unior]

How does it compare to the ZNA by Zen in aesthetics/build quality.

The power that I require is less than 30 watts.

Thanks, Jim


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I don't know how it compares to the ZNA but looking at it from the specs vs my SXMM I am definitely pro SXMM. I got mine about one month ago. No issues with it so far. About 1/2 of that time I have had it in the Yihi sleeve. So I haven't had any paint issues. But supposedly that was fixed a couple of months ago. It is a joy to use! So much so I will probably get another one in the future. The only reason I wouldn't is if I get a Vapor Flask with the 350j chip. I had a flask before the SXMM. It was comfortable in the hand & I liked using it. But not near as much as the SXMM. The main reason I would get one over the SXM is the extended battery life of the flask. With my other one I was getting a good 2 days. Anyway that is my 2 cents.

 

[Kencalise]

I just bought it 2 days ago, and the paint is already chipped.
didn't hit on any objects and hard surface, but it chipped.
My mini comes with the latest version and engraved serial number.
it was born in 18-June-2015. seems like the new batch has the same old problem.
btw, where u guys get the replacement?
thank you!

 

[Jake67]

I just bought it 2 days ago, and the paint is already chipped.
didn't hit on any objects and hard surface, but it chipped.
My mini comes with the latest version and engraved serial number.
it was born in 18-June-2015. seems like the new batch has the same old problem.
btw, where u guys get the replacement?
thank you!

Just contact Yihi by email.


Sent from my iPhone

 

[2legsshrt]

I suppose the added stiffness/springyness allows for rewicking and cleaning a TI coil without deforming the coil more so than Ni. Currently I'm in the habit of replacing both long before they need to be as my desire to experiment outweighs whatever fractional cost of materials are.

The one Ni coil I did end up cleaning was rather little effort - I just stuck it under a faucet for a few minutes and all the 'gunk' was washed away. (after +2 weeks of service)

All my 'subohm' tanks are now outfitted with TC. I've gone as far as labeling the 'TI' outfitted ones so that I have some warning before mounting them as out of 4 TC mods only one has a native "TI" mode (I have not 'upgraded' my SXM), the IPV4S in TI mode 'just works'.

Last night I made use of the torch I use to start the BBQ and aimed it at a "springy coil" of TI - a little heat got rid of that nasty springyness like a charm.

I don't own any Kanthal, however have 28-32 Ni and now 24-32 Ti wire.

While I enjoy reading the 'glowing' reviews and testimonials of those that have 'made the switch' to Ti wire, in my mind the Ti wire is much more expensive and a PITA to work with. The much higher resistance does changes the winding: a 0.3 target is 7/6 wraps 26AWG Ti vs 9/8 32AWG Ni. However, outside of being more mechanically robust I'm not quite sure Ti wire is doing anything for me.

I agree it is a little more expensive, check the price here http://www.vape-atomizer-mesh.com/ the shipping is high though. I like it but it is slightly springiner then some less then others. Seems to work really well. Nickel is much less expensive but a little finickier then Ti. The vape is very similar, I just got finished cleaning a coil Ti that has been in for about 5 weeks 2nd cleaning came out great. It's just like everything else vape related, personal preference. As far as I am concerned the upgrade for the SXM really isn't worth the DL they work great on NI mode.

 

[nic_fix]

I finally figured out an easy fool proof way to thread the cap. gently rest the cap on the mod while it is upside down. then gently shake the cap into place. you will hear a very faint click when it is seated and you will observe that it is straight. then do not reverse. simply screw it on. do not put pressure on it until it catches the threads. sounds complicated but this is very easy to do. I have not have had a cross thread in over 30 tries now. finally. it is not a perfect design but this circumvents the problem. I know this is off current topics in this thread but it has been discussed here enough and now I have found a solution. I hope this helps anyone but erhaps ymmv on this.

as for the paint chipping it does and it is certainly bs. it is still however the best mod in my eyes. even with the advent of the dna200. it just vapes the best for me. I have very high end custom mods and sure they look nicer but this vapes the best. that to me is what counts. forget aesthetics on these things they are first and foremost vaporizers. in that regard I feel this currently remains the top choice. anything with 350j is good but I also like how this fits in my hand. so that is all. I don't really care about the paint issue given the performance it offers but I can understand others do care. either way it is pretty shoddy of them to skimp on the paint on a $200 mod. should have anodized it. you can actually remove a lot of paint simply with your fingernail. this is honestly uncalled for whether you mind or not. no sense to send it back and receive another with the same issue. they need to rectify this issue at once imo. maybe we can email flood them about it and they catch the drift. it is just entirely uncalled for really. however if you have the wherewithal it provides a great opportunity for a custom automotive airbrush. I used 3m color shift and basf premier. I realize not everyone can do this. otherwise it simply sucks of them. of course every mod I have has some flaw. the vapor shark shed it's skin in 1 hour. even worse. I suggest we speak with our money in regard to this. if you do not mind the paint failing then I feel otherwise you really cannot do better than the sx mini currently. of course it depends how you vape. if you need 200 watts than this is not for you anyways. if this is your cup of tea you just have to understand the paint is going to fail.

 

[Quantum Mech]

I change batteries in both my M classes daily and not had an issue with the battery caps
Maybe working with nuts n bolts n fixings daily makes it seem easier .... who knows
Or maybe all folks having issues have 4x thumbs and 1x finger on each hand
To be fair it felt odd the first few times but going from a potty to a full so loo was aswell

As for the paint coming off, no issue there either and they are months old now
My all black is still flawless and only marks on my other is where it jumped out my hand and performed a few circus trapeze tricks before hitting concrete

Anyone with paint issues just needs to raise a warranty claim or put up with it and accept your vendor sold you one from the known batch with faulty paint

 

[AstroTurf]

Faulty paint, tricky battery caps...

Is there anything else I should know before I go buy one?

Thanks, Jim

 

[burnie71]

Faulty paint, tricky battery caps...

Is there anything else I should know before I go buy one?

Thanks, Jim

Mine is fine faultless, maybe they could have added Bluetooth and a self coiling and wicking option too! but really apart from a few people who were unlucky with the early paint problems which was addressed by YiHi. I can not fault it, the battery cap is not an issue at all for most people used to screwing things together with some care, have not read anywhere of threads being stripped.