SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

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HolmanGT

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For 4 batteries it goes down to 375ma


Sent from my iPhone 6+ using Tapatalk

BRB - I am going o check mine again...


Addendum: Your spot on. I never noticed it before but it does in fact drop to 375 when it has four batteries plugged in.
 
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DDramaSV

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If you guys would stick to simple single wire builds in these TC mods you would have less problems.

I've had more success with twisted 30 gauge on my DNA40(especially in RTAs) than single strands because it makes better contact and it's sturdier but since moving to 28 gauge NI200 and getting my SX mini it's pretty much pointless from what I can tell. There seems to be no difference in vapor production or flavor that I can see! Just my experience.
 

whiteweazel21

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OK in your first post back to me you are saying that you have nipple tops (I think). Are they smart or protected batteries most of the real high mAh batteries are. You shouldn't be using protected batteries they usually don't have the current capability that is required by the SX. What is the max current for the batteries you have?

Also on the nipple top I don't know if they fit or not I don't know anyone that uses them. You said they fit originally or you think they did. You didn't cross thread the cap did you. It is pretty easy on the SX if you are not careful?

I'm using: Efest IMR 18650 35A 2500 mAh 3.7V LI-MN High Drain

I think I may have cross threaded once accidentally, and ever since it's been off. At least that's what I think may have happened. When I look at it, the cap is ever so slightly angled even if I try to get it on there straight. Is it possible to get a replacement cap or just live with it?
 

DDramaSV

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Yeah thats the way I do it too when I am twisting one type of wire but I want to twist NI200 to Kanthal
oh my bad! I didn't see your first post! Sorry about that. When twisting dissimilar wire I double up the bottom of the smaller wire and clamp in the center of the chuck and pinch the other wire in the corner edge of the teeth of the chuck! It's a total pain but it will work after a lot of messing around!
 
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2legsshrt

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Another question, why would you want to?
If this was a good idea I expect Evolv and Yihi would recommend it, they don't.
There is no magic bullet, all you need is a 28 AWG coil about 3mm and 9 wraps and solid connections
I say don't make it harder than it needs to be.

All I know is that he and another guy who got the info from a vape shop owner who buys everything DNA40 are doing it and it works for them. You'll have to watch the video. The original guy twisted 30awg NI200 tempered to 30awg Kanthal and he said it works perfectly everytime. IDK why it works and apparently neither do they but it seems that the device is only measuring the resistance of the nickel. All I know is it is working for them. I am just reporting what they said about it and what I saw on the video. The other video that they talk about it is Episode 3 of the Vape Team on YT kind of lengthy though.
 

HolmanGT

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I'm using: Efest IMR 18650 35A 2500 mAh 3.7V LI-MN High Drain

I think I may have cross threaded once accidentally, and ever since it's been off. At least that's what I think may have happened. When I look at it, the cap is ever so slightly angled even if I try to get it on there straight. Is it possible to get a replacement cap or just live with it?

Oh - God... I sure hope it can be fixed. I don't know where you are located but if you can find a machine shop locally they may take pity on you and try to clean the threads by running a tap into the tube.

By the way (even if it is too late for your SX) I have posted before a method that REALLY helps eliminate the threading problem. Those Bat thread are so fine you really have to watch what you are doing.

What I have found works (knock on wood) is to set the negative end of the battery into the end cap then take the batter and end cap as an assemble put it up into the SX and with your fingers start the end cap threading. With the battery and end cap insert as a single unit it seems to prevent the cap from getting tilted. Any way before you get all depressed call a local machine shop and see if you can get one to help you out.

PS - if you do take it to a machine shop make sure they understand how fragile the unit is and I would even suggest wrapping the unit with that Blue Painters Masking Tape. Some Machinist idea of fragile may not be exactly what you had in mind. Just ask Tony what happened to him when he let a machinist work on one of his units.

If it is cross threaded my heart goes out to you but if you get the right guy to re-work it all may not be lost.

Regards,
George
 

2legsshrt

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oh my bad! I didn't see your first post! Sorry about that. When twisting dissimilar wire I double up the bottom of the smaller wire and clamp in the center of the chuck and pinch the other wire in the corner edge of the teeth of the chuck! It's a total pain but it will work after a lot of messing around!

Gotcha thanks.
 

HolmanGT

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All I know is that he and another guy who got the info from a vape shop owner who buys everything DNA40 are doing it and it works for them. You'll have to watch the video. The original guy twisted 30awg NI200 tempered to 30awg Kanthal and he said it works perfectly everytime. IDK why it works and apparently neither do they but it seems that the device is only measuring the resistance of the nickel. All I know is it is working for them. I am just reporting what they said about it and what I saw on the video. The other video that they talk about it is Episode 3 of the Vape Team on YT kind of lengthy though.

2legs,

Why do you keep going for the fancy complicated stuff. I wouldn't recommend mixed metal coils until you can get a single Ni200 to work correctly. Just my opinion of course but why muddy the water with all the complexity of mixed metals on a TC unit that will instantly put you out of calibration even it you get all the connections stable which has been a problem for you for some time now.

No offense intended but there is something to be said for the "KISS" principle.

Regards,
George
 

2legsshrt

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I'm using: Efest IMR 18650 35A 2500 mAh 3.7V LI-MN High Drain

I think I may have cross threaded once accidentally, and ever since it's been off. At least that's what I think may have happened. When I look at it, the cap is ever so slightly angled even if I try to get it on there straight. Is it possible to get a replacement cap or just live with it?

Where did you buy it even if you didn't get it at Varitube give them a call. I heard about this problem even before I got my S class so I was always really careful. Thats why they contacted YiHi to see if the threads could be less fine. If you get it fixed just remember if there is any resistance to turning it its not right.
 

cinetrope

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I've had more success with twisted 30 gauge on my DNA40(especially in RTAs) than single strands because it makes better contact and it's sturdier but since moving to 28 gauge NI200 and getting my SX mini it's pretty much pointless from what I can tell. There seems to be no difference in vapor production or flavor that I can see! Just my experience.
I'm using twisted 30 in my Kayfuns because it allows me to get the same resistance in 6/7 wraps as single strand 28 does in 10/11 wraps which is what I use in my RDAs. My decision is based entirely upon the available space in the respective build decks. The twisted 30 is marginally easier to work with due to it being slightly thicker and somewhat work hardened by the twisting.
 

retird

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Hmm..I wonder if I'm over-exaggerating. I will try and get the flat top batteries first before I start crying lol. If I did cause damage from cross threading, is it more likely from the cap threads or internal threads?

I imagine it would be possible to get a replacement cap somehow, or eventually. Internal would suck though...

Sorry to be late to the party but my internet provider chose to give me an outage yesterday so I had no internet... back up and running now..

on the thread issue I was wondering if you were/are able to screw it in until it is flush without having a battery installed... just a thought as I didn't see where you tried it absent a battery....
 

Vlad1

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Hmm..I wonder if I'm over-exaggerating. I will try and get the flat top batteries first before I start crying lol. If I did cause damage from cross threading, is it more likely from the cap threads or internal threads?

I imagine it would be possible to get a replacement cap somehow, or eventually. Internal would suck though...

Always, always start out going counter clockwise with slight pressure until you feel / hear the threads click past the start points when your connecting to or placing caps on. I would think if you've damaged anything it would be the brass liner since brass is softer than stainless steel. I'd suggest you take the battery completely out. Shine a light up inside and see if you can see any smearing of the threads on the brass, wipe it out with a clean cloth, then try putting only the cap back on as I stated without the battery. If you have any binding or tightness something is wrong, don't continue tightening until you figure out what it is.
 

2legsshrt

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Hmm..I wonder if I'm over-exaggerating. I will try and get the flat top batteries first before I start crying lol. If I did cause damage from cross threading, is it more likely from the cap threads or internal threads?

I imagine it would be possible to get a replacement cap somehow, or eventually. Internal would suck though...

The flat top battery might give you enough leeway to at least get the cap in far enough. But I have used botton top AW IMR the new ones 2200Mah 20a continuous in my S since the beginning. IDK if flattops will do the trick if it is cross threaded. It could be that one side is to the end of the threads. That is one thumbs down on these. But like I said give Varitube a call they know a lot about these SX's. If there is a fix they will know. They kind of have the inside track to YiHi they are the ones YiHi used to introduce the M class at the big Las Vegas show back whenever that was. I want to say Dec or Jan.
 
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Woofer

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All I know is that he and another guy who got the info from a vape shop owner who buys everything DNA40 are doing it and it works for them. You'll have to watch the video. The original guy twisted 30awg NI200 tempered to 30awg Kanthal and he said it works perfectly everytime. IDK why it works and apparently neither do they but it seems that the device is only measuring the resistance of the nickel. All I know is it is working for them. I am just reporting what they said about it and what I saw on the video. The other video that they talk about it is Episode 3 of the Vape Team on YT kind of lengthy though.

What I know is I use single 28 AWG, spaced coil wound on a ~3mm mandrel (#8x32 screw) wicked with rayon and it works perfectly every time. (with rDNA40s)
The kanthal will be a heat sink not a heat source, not a desirable feature to me at least.
 

whiteweazel21

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Well it does screw in fine without the battery. The gaps around the cap when screwed in are not exactly even, but not sure if that's just the nature of assembly/manufacturing. I'll try getting the flat top batteries first, even if it's a bit off, I think there might be enough clearance for it to screw in completely. I don't exactly know what it looked like before, and not that familiar with threading, so difficult to tell if there's any actual smearing.

Thanks for the input guys

Edit: I think the botton top makes it a bit harder to screw in, since there's is less space, I need to push in when starting to screw the cap in. This probably is what caused my user error, along side my first time using this type of battery insert system.
 
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Vlad1

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Also I just got an email from Busardo that says the SXmini M class in his tests so far has been stellar. He said if you have the money get it.

Well I have it. Used it for a week now and he agrees with me it's been stellar. :) That being said even if his graphs / charts come out to show the SXmini M to be inaccurate IMO it's a fantastic device. I do look forward to the charts & graphs though as a comparison to my experience. To the best of my knowledge he's the only reviewer that posts objective data as well as his subjective opinions. It's moving to the top of the review que pretty rapidly for only being up there about a week. Hopefully this will motivate him to expedite the testing. :) Taste Your Juice | REVIEW QUEUE VOTING
 
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