BRB - I am going o check mine again...
Addendum: Your spot on. I never noticed it before but it does in fact drop to 375 when it has four batteries plugged in.
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If you guys would stick to simple single wire builds in these TC mods you would have less problems.
OK in your first post back to me you are saying that you have nipple tops (I think). Are they smart or protected batteries most of the real high mAh batteries are. You shouldn't be using protected batteries they usually don't have the current capability that is required by the SX. What is the max current for the batteries you have?
Also on the nipple top I don't know if they fit or not I don't know anyone that uses them. You said they fit originally or you think they did. You didn't cross thread the cap did you. It is pretty easy on the SX if you are not careful?
oh my bad! I didn't see your first post! Sorry about that. When twisting dissimilar wire I double up the bottom of the smaller wire and clamp in the center of the chuck and pinch the other wire in the corner edge of the teeth of the chuck! It's a total pain but it will work after a lot of messing around!Yeah thats the way I do it too when I am twisting one type of wire but I want to twist NI200 to Kanthal
That behavior is completely normal. It's the natural sag of the battery when you apply a load. It's a lot more noticeable as the battery gets down below 3.6V.
Another question, why would you want to?
If this was a good idea I expect Evolv and Yihi would recommend it, they don't.
There is no magic bullet, all you need is a 28 AWG coil about 3mm and 9 wraps and solid connections
I say don't make it harder than it needs to be.
I'm using: Efest IMR 18650 35A 2500 mAh 3.7V LI-MN High Drain
I think I may have cross threaded once accidentally, and ever since it's been off. At least that's what I think may have happened. When I look at it, the cap is ever so slightly angled even if I try to get it on there straight. Is it possible to get a replacement cap or just live with it?
oh my bad! I didn't see your first post! Sorry about that. When twisting dissimilar wire I double up the bottom of the smaller wire and clamp in the center of the chuck and pinch the other wire in the corner edge of the teeth of the chuck! It's a total pain but it will work after a lot of messing around!
All I know is that he and another guy who got the info from a vape shop owner who buys everything DNA40 are doing it and it works for them. You'll have to watch the video. The original guy twisted 30awg NI200 tempered to 30awg Kanthal and he said it works perfectly everytime. IDK why it works and apparently neither do they but it seems that the device is only measuring the resistance of the nickel. All I know is it is working for them. I am just reporting what they said about it and what I saw on the video. The other video that they talk about it is Episode 3 of the Vape Team on YT kind of lengthy though.
I'm using: Efest IMR 18650 35A 2500 mAh 3.7V LI-MN High Drain
I think I may have cross threaded once accidentally, and ever since it's been off. At least that's what I think may have happened. When I look at it, the cap is ever so slightly angled even if I try to get it on there straight. Is it possible to get a replacement cap or just live with it?
I'm using twisted 30 in my Kayfuns because it allows me to get the same resistance in 6/7 wraps as single strand 28 does in 10/11 wraps which is what I use in my RDAs. My decision is based entirely upon the available space in the respective build decks. The twisted 30 is marginally easier to work with due to it being slightly thicker and somewhat work hardened by the twisting.I've had more success with twisted 30 gauge on my DNA40(especially in RTAs) than single strands because it makes better contact and it's sturdier but since moving to 28 gauge NI200 and getting my SX mini it's pretty much pointless from what I can tell. There seems to be no difference in vapor production or flavor that I can see! Just my experience.
Hmm..I wonder if I'm over-exaggerating. I will try and get the flat top batteries first before I start crying lol. If I did cause damage from cross threading, is it more likely from the cap threads or internal threads?
I imagine it would be possible to get a replacement cap somehow, or eventually. Internal would suck though...
Hmm..I wonder if I'm over-exaggerating. I will try and get the flat top batteries first before I start crying lol. If I did cause damage from cross threading, is it more likely from the cap threads or internal threads?
I imagine it would be possible to get a replacement cap somehow, or eventually. Internal would suck though...
Hmm..I wonder if I'm over-exaggerating. I will try and get the flat top batteries first before I start crying lol. If I did cause damage from cross threading, is it more likely from the cap threads or internal threads?
I imagine it would be possible to get a replacement cap somehow, or eventually. Internal would suck though...
All I know is that he and another guy who got the info from a vape shop owner who buys everything DNA40 are doing it and it works for them. You'll have to watch the video. The original guy twisted 30awg NI200 tempered to 30awg Kanthal and he said it works perfectly everytime. IDK why it works and apparently neither do they but it seems that the device is only measuring the resistance of the nickel. All I know is it is working for them. I am just reporting what they said about it and what I saw on the video. The other video that they talk about it is Episode 3 of the Vape Team on YT kind of lengthy though.
Also I just got an email from Busardo that says the SXmini M class in his tests so far has been stellar. He said if you have the money get it.