I was attempting humor
But they both use nickle and the metal doesn't change from one chip to the other.
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SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)
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I was attempting humor
But they both use nickle and the metal doesn't change from one chip to the other.
That picture is a miracle. You have been very lucky that that kind of build has been working flawlessly because I assure you, you are rather the exception than the norm.
Nickel doesn't build that protective oxide layer we've gotten used to from kanthal so any movement on your nickel coils might change drastically the perceived resistance. The same goes for dual builds. They work if both coils are exactly the same. Even a slight variance will make one 10,20 degrees hotter then the other.
Kudos to you for pulling that off but if you get into trouble, the first thing would be to change to a single spaced coil and then troubleshoot from there.
Good luck
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
That picture is a miracle. You have been very lucky that that kind of build has been working flawlessly because I assure you, you are rather the exception than the norm.
Nickel doesn't build that protective oxide layer we've gotten used to from kanthal so any movement on your nickel coils might change drastically the perceived resistance. The same goes for dual builds. They work if both coils are exactly the same. Even a slight variance will make one 10,20 degrees hotter then the other.
Kudos to you for pulling that off but if you get into trouble, the first thing would be to change to a single spaced coil and then troubleshoot from there.
Good luck
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
really? the same build with 30g was working fine on the dna40 since October?november? whenever it came in. granted I don't yank my wick around and im very gentle with coil, but its always served me well.
the tempered ni200 is definitely a lot of help to work with. but seriously, been working great.
Really
Almost everybody I know that tried it, failed after a few days and resistance jumping all around.
Get a lottery ticket
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
I was attempting humor
But they both use nickle and the metal doesn't change from one chip to the other.
Yes but the resistance does change when you heat up the coil. With a lock on it you will never notice.
For me, after a certain amount of time of vaping a build so far on my SX Mini, I need to reset the resistance because the vape isn't exactly the same anymore. When I do reset the resistance, it is a completely different ohm reading. On a DNA 40 with refinement, it is actively checking for you.
Like I said, both are different and both can give me the same vape one way or another.
Really
Almost everybody I know that tried it, failed after a few days and resistance jumping all around.
Get a lottery ticket
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
I guess im just that good
again I was attempting to make funny...
but the point was building with nickel is the same. the softness of the metal the brittle nature, the factors of the metal itself does not change.
I hace found on both boards a secure connection, patience and not fiddling with the build once that connection is set up is vital to keeping a good vape.
I've been using the same Ni200 coil in the SMOK Gimlet since I've received the M Class.. Each time I check / set the resistance at room-temp, it has been solid @ 0.22...
thank you...
the smok gimlet? is that a clearo?
I've been a huge fan of the atlantis/melo OCC coils, but they don't come in nickel. and I really don't like the subtank (personal preference) but I like being able be a lazyvapor.
thank you...
the smok gimlet? is that a clearo?
I've been a huge fan of the atlantis/melo OCC coils, but they don't come in nickel. and I really don't like the subtank (personal preference) but I like being able be a lazyvapor.
Yes, it's a clearo.. It included two Ni200 heads spec'd @ 0.20.. Nicely made clearo IMO.. Much better than the VCT..
I honestly don't know how much research has been put into TC by us, so this may have been mentioned a hundred times in old threads about DNA40 devices, but I thought I'd share my experience after a day of tinkering with TC.
This is with a single coil on an RDA...
Once I have the resistance set with the coil wicked and juiced I will perform a test fire of the device. Similar to when we do the water test of saturating the wick with water and firing it with TC set some level above 212 and watch where the temp hovers (right around 212), I fire it and watch where it hovers. If it's not reaching my set temp (Say, 420F for example) and it's hovering at something like 380F, I will change the temp to just above the hovering temp. This hasn't effected the vape quality, only the amount of temperature variant the device sees once the wick starts to run dry. If I were to set it to 450, and it typically hovers at 380 with no airflow, it has to see a 70 degree change in temp from where it's vaporizing the liquid, which I've found can produce a bit of a foul taste. By making that variant something a bit less drastic, like 10-20 degrees, it ramps off a lot quicker. Even though the wick will never run completely dry, I don't get any kind of foul taste.
I've found that altering the Joules setting will determine the difference between warmer and cooler vape temps more so than altering the temp setting.
This is what's working for me anyway, YMMV...
Now, I'm running a 70/30 PG/VG juice right now, so the vaporizing temp will be lower than a higher VG blend. I think 100% VG has a boiling point of 550'ish, so we should be able to find a "hovering temp" for any juice with the provided settings.
Also, I personally have not done the water test to check the accuracy of my TC. Not sure you need to if your temp is hovering at something less than the set value and you're making good vapor.
This is with a single coil on an RDA...
Once I have the resistance set with the coil wicked and juiced I will perform a test fire of the device. Similar to when we do the water test of saturating the wick with water and firing it with TC set some level above 212 and watch where the temp hovers (right around 212), I fire it and watch where it hovers. If it's not reaching my set temp (Say, 420F for example) and it's hovering at something like 380F, I will change the temp to just above the hovering temp. This hasn't effected the vape quality, only the amount of temperature variant the device sees once the wick starts to run dry. If I were to set it to 450, and it typically hovers at 380 with no airflow, it has to see a 70 degree change in temp from where it's vaporizing the liquid, which I've found can produce a bit of a foul taste. By making that variant something a bit less drastic, like 10-20 degrees, it ramps off a lot quicker. Even though the wick will never run completely dry, I don't get any kind of foul taste.
I've found that altering the Joules setting will determine the difference between warmer and cooler vape temps more so than altering the temp setting.
This is what's working for me anyway, YMMV...
Now, I'm running a 70/30 PG/VG juice right now, so the vaporizing temp will be lower than a higher VG blend. I think 100% VG has a boiling point of 550'ish, so we should be able to find a "hovering temp" for any juice with the provided settings.
Also, I personally have not done the water test to check the accuracy of my TC. Not sure you need to if your temp is hovering at something less than the set value and you're making good vapor.
Well so far I have not had success with the reg supplied Kanger coils. Just a real bad funky taste. Washed the tank ect, but the coils on supplied with the tank still taste Blahhhhhyuck. So I purchased Ni coils when I got the tank and figured I would give one of the new coils a shot.
Typically my airflow is set pretty low. I like to pull when I vape. I know when I reduce the airflow I run the risk of smoking the wick. That's why I wanted a safe starting spot.
So I got the kanger with the nic coil on the mod. I am doing some yard work, so I will just let it sit, absorb juice, and mate the mini/tank temps. Then give it a try. I will use the settings you suggest to start unless after reading this you want to change your advice.
Thanks for the help.
That has not been the same for me on the SX Mini. I just had a .11ohm reading and reset it at room temp and now I have a .13ohm reading. Connections are secure, 28g 3mm spaced coil.
are you letting them both cool completely before resetting them?
the setting is to give it a baseline to calculate temp.
Yea I let them both sit for over a half hour before reseting.
I don't know the gimlet but a 0.002 ohm difference is so small that I would almost think it could be a change in the head itself or mayabe some gunk buildup on the actual coil.
both are complete guesses, but I would think if they are both cool its going to be something mechanical rather then electronic...if that makes sense.
One thing I have heard is Busardo is not happy with the Joules method or the explanation he got of it's use. But if it works who cares.
I don't have a TC mod yet, so can't speak from experience, but a dry coil should reach temperatures way over 600 farenheit. Weird if it doesn't reach even the char point of cotton.
Seems like folks are hung up on seeing a 'J' on their screen instead of a 'W'. Not so much here, but reading elsewhere, you'd think the sky is falling. Adjust to your preference and move on. It's not too difficult.
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