not about what I feel because I don't know what's going on inside. but, the noise does not bother me at all. in fact, I heard it before the first post and thought it to be normal since this is my first temperature limiting mod
SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)
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Maybe it is normal. Electronics does make some noise due to the physics of the operation. There have been some good posts explaining it. The question is if it is by design does it bother you. If it does, than this mod is not for you or anyone who finds it to be a problem. Sometime soon Yihi should respond back to the question and give us the run down on whether it is a defect or part of the design. I strongly believe that it is by design and if they say so then everyone will have to make the decision on whether it bothers you enough to buy the product or return it if you already have it.
Personally I think we are chasing ghosts while in a church.
Gave it a try a bit ago was going to do 5 samples 10j, 20j, 30j, 40j & 50j but at 40j he can't hear it anymore, I think due to the water saturated wick burning so fast and taking with wick out doing a dry burn it basically just hit's "Dry Coil" instantly. I'm sure if I wanted bad enough I could figure out how to keep it cool but since I don't hear it at all it's just not that important to me at the moment.
I'm sure someone will have definitive answers to share in short time.I got another response from Joel at Vspot Vapes and he just informed be that the buzzing stopped for him with a .09ohm coil. I've ony been building .1ohm+ coils so I am going to try to shoot for the .065ohm (the one YiHi said was optimal) to .09ohm range and see how it goes.
I just built a 1.01 coil and I see no difference in buzz if I put it up to my ear but I do notice an increase in flavor. I have been using 1.11 to 1.25 ohm before.
I used a 3.0 mm rod and 9 wraps for my Delta II RBA and the same for my Kanger SubOhm Mini RBA. I will try the Kanger in a while later, but right now I am really enjoying my Delta II using 14.2J, 510 degrees, in Powerful + mode with the 1.01 ohm NI200 coil with max VG juice. A very pleasant vape and one of the best I have had so far.
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Look guys, it probably as simple as a poorly seated chip or some other really obscure thing during manufacturing. Don't think it to death, just talk to your supplier and use the warranty. Most vendors have been reported to replace them on the spot.
Fact is if some aren't doing it, then none should be doing it replace your mods.
Also wanted to mention i'm using a Kanger Subtank mini build-able deck and this thing is working flawlessly.
This noise thing is a little weird to me. Are folks hearing the noise hearing two different types? I didn't notice any noises from normal use until checking after reading here. On my M Class if I hold it up to my ear when the screen is on I get a faint buzz/hum in either mode. No noise if the screen is off. When I fire it in TC mode, I get a louder rattle sound. (Only if held up to my ear.) No rattle sound when firing in power mode.
I have two other mods with Yihi chips in them. A Mini S Class & a Sig 100 (SX330 chip.) Both of them produce a fain buzz/hum when I hold them up to my ear when the screen is on. No rattle when firing.
The funny thing is that I never noticed a few things (like the sound) until it was posted here. Awhile ago someone posted about how the screen is slightly crooked to the frame. Mine is the same. Had my S Class for 5 months, decided to look closely at its screen, it is also slightly crooked. Never noticed before. Still the best two mods I ever used
I have two other mods with Yihi chips in them. A Mini S Class & a Sig 100 (SX330 chip.) Both of them produce a fain buzz/hum when I hold them up to my ear when the screen is on. No rattle when firing.
The funny thing is that I never noticed a few things (like the sound) until it was posted here. Awhile ago someone posted about how the screen is slightly crooked to the frame. Mine is the same. Had my S Class for 5 months, decided to look closely at its screen, it is also slightly crooked. Never noticed before. Still the best two mods I ever used
Mine unfortunately seems more temperamental. I've ordered a Lemo 2 from Fasttech. I'm hoping that will be more consistent for builds. In the meantime, I have some of the Kanger OCC nickel coils that I will give a try and see if that makes me happy with the Subtank.
The deck is kinda small but I did manage to get a 28g, 2.5mm 12 wrap @0.11 ni200, just have to work with the spaces a little.
That comes down to your choice of your B&M or your online retailer (unfortunately). Hopefully Yihi recognizes the problem and makes it easier.
This noise thing is a little weird to me. Are folks hearing the noise hearing two different types? I didn't notice any noises from normal use until checking after reading here. On my M Class if I hold it up to my ear when the screen is on I get a faint buzz/hum in either mode. No noise if the screen is off. When I fire it in TC mode, I get a louder rattle sound. (Only if held up to my ear.) No rattle sound when firing in power mode.
I have two other mods with Yihi chips in them. A Mini S Class & a Sig 100 (SX330 chip.) Both of them produce a fain buzz/hum when I hold them up to my ear when the screen is on. No rattle when firing.
The funny thing is that I never noticed a few things (like the sound) until it was posted here. Awhile ago someone posted about how the screen is slightly crooked to the frame. Mine is the same. Had my S Class for 5 months, decided to look closely at its screen, it is also slightly crooked. Never noticed before. Still the best two mods I ever used
Hah... I never noticed the VERY faint hum when the screen is on. I just noticed that. I guess I thought it was ambient sound from the room. But now I can definitely hear it, especially if I hold it up to my ear long enough for the screen to turn off. The buzzing when you fire it in TC mode is a lot louder. I'm curious as to where the people who can't hear the buzzing in TC mode are holding the device. I can't hear the buzz as close as like 1/2" from my ear. I have to basically stick my ear on the side of the case like a suction cup. LoL... Then I can hear the hum from the screen AND the buzzing from TC mode. Really gotta be tuned in on that hum from the screen though, that is awfully quiet, but there nonetheless...
I have quite a bit of hearing loss though from playing guitar with loud as heck amplifiers, and being on stage / concerts, and the like. Not to mention playing pretty much all music to the edge of distortion levels... LoL I killed my ears over the years...
My screen on my M Class seems pretty dead on straight. No complaints there
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Same here... I did have some small issues with resistance stability when I first checked it, but I just needed to tighten the RBA section down a bit more. That spring in the airflow controller can cause some issues if it's not seated firmly against the positive post of the RBA section.
EDIT: Misread the post..
I though I read "who can"... If that were the case, around 3 inches from my ear, and not at all when the button isn't pressed with the display light on.
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EDIT: Misread the post..
Dang, what did you think it said? LoL
I edited above..
Yeah, tightening up the RBA section as much as possible has helped to minimize resistance stability problems, but it still creeps up. I'm guessing my issues might come down to it being within design tolerance, but that tolerance is not enough for my particular subtank to ensure a solid connection for TC. Then again, maybe with enough builds I might find something that can work perfectly, but I'd prefer to avoid the hassle. The construction of the Lemo 2's rda looks like it might be much more forgiving on temperature control. The 510 pin connects to a much more thicker deck and the wires wrap underneath into ports to be secured by screws. Meanwhile, the magma remains rock solid in performance.
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