SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

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Vlad1

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I was browsing the ebay and someone has put their SX M Class up for sale. Used it for 25 minutes and is now selling :facepalm: The problem is he wants $255 for a slightly used mod. Being the nice guy I am I had to message him and let him know these go for $199 New. He didn't seem to happy and was rude

Someone will most likely buy it when all the retailers are out of stock and they're on a compulsive gotta have it now buy.
 

Braddahbill

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I was browsing the ebay and someone has put their SX M Class up for sale. Used it for 25 minutes and is now selling :facepalm: The problem is he wants $255 for a slightly used mod. Being the nice guy I am I had to message him and let him know these go for $199 New. He didn't seem to happy and was rude

I saw that and was laughing that he stated it was "Rare"

Then again maybe he bought it at a B&M store.
 

jstrong

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I saw that and was laughing that he stated it was "Rare"

Then again maybe he bought it at a B&M store.

So rare that they are still in stock at most vendors. I can understand something like the Vaporshark being a little pricey because there are times when shipping is anywhere between 10 to 30 days
 

Braddahbill

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Hah... I never noticed the VERY faint hum when the screen is on. I just noticed that. I guess I thought it was ambient sound from the room. But now I can definitely hear it, especially if I hold it up to my ear long enough for the screen to turn off. The buzzing when you fire it in TC mode is a lot louder. I'm curious as to where the people who can't hear the buzzing in TC mode are holding the device. I can't hear the buzz as close as like 1/2" from my ear. I have to basically stick my ear on the side of the case like a suction cup. LoL... Then I can hear the hum from the screen AND the buzzing from TC mode. Really gotta be tuned in on that hum from the screen though, that is awfully quiet, but there nonetheless...

I have quite a bit of hearing loss though from playing guitar with loud as heck amplifiers, and being on stage / concerts, and the like. Not to mention playing pretty much all music to the edge of distortion levels... LoL I killed my ears over the years...

My screen on my M Class seems pretty dead on straight. No complaints there

Geez you guys....Now I hear it too. I'm not really too concerned as many are reporting it, but I will say that I can hear the buzz in both ears, and the screen hum only in my right ear.

Factory time=2015-03-27 00:00:00

Verify Counter=3

Last Time=2015-04-12 09:59:11


Sent from a round red thing with a bite taken out of it.
 
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dr g

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I've also come to the conclusion that the temperature isn't so much a measure of the temperature of the coil as it is the temperature at which the juice vaporizes. We often see the temperature stall out on the SXmini, and never reach our set temp. This is the vaporizing temp of your liquid, where it stalls. Once all the liquid is gone, the temp will rise up and hit the temp limit that we set, and the voltage will get shut down. If we were heating water, for example, the coil will never get hotter than 212F until all the water is gone, only then can the coil get hotter than the water. We can apply more power to the coil, which won't effect the temperature at which water changes state, but WILL effect the rate at which the water evaporates. So changing the Joules allows us to vaporize the juice faster / produce more vapor. The temp that the juice vaporizes stays the same.

Geek out on that :D

This is a theory I had a few years back and was one of the first things I tested with temp control. Turns out it's not true though. Reason is you're not measuring the temperature of the wick or the vapor but the coil. So in the same way that a gas flame is not 212 degrees below a pot of water, coils will not be the temperature of boiling eliquid.
 

dam718

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This is a theory I had a few years back and was one of the first things I tested with temp control. Turns out it's not true though. Reason is you're not measuring the temperature of the wick or the vapor but the coil. So in the same way that a gas flame is not 212 degrees below a pot of water, coils will not be the temperature of boiling eliquid.

That is true enough... But what is the temp of the inside surface of the pot where it is making contact with the water? With the coil making direct contact with the juice, combined with the airflow across the coil, it is going to be much less than it would reach if we were to remove the juice and the airflow.
 

70Baracuda

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So rare that they are still in stock at most vendors. I can understand something like the Vaporshark being a little pricey because there are times when shipping is anywhere between 10 to 30 days

Jstrong,
I've been searching the web for several days and Im on the notify me when available list, on a couple sites, but haven't found any in stock. If you have a link to share, it'd be appreciated
 

Vlad1

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Jstrong,
I've been searching the web for several days and Im on the notify me when available list, on a couple sites, but haven't found any in stock. If you have a link to share, it'd be appreciated

Varitube.com is expecting to receive a shipment Monday.

Shipment of Black and Grey with Silver Faces cleared customs. Will be available Monday.
 

dems86

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inspects

Squonkamaniac
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Jstrong,
I've been searching the web for several days and Im on the notify me when available list, on a couple sites, but haven't found any in stock. If you have a link to share, it'd be appreciated

YiHi SX Mini M Class

VapeNW has them in stock....only one color at the moment.
 

inspects

Squonkamaniac
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4.15.15 SX Mini M Class Eleaf M Coils 012.jpg

I like the SX a lot, better than the 40 rDNA Vapor Shark......
 

a tez

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So I just tested a .065ohm build and still get the buzz but again it is much lower. Seems like the lower the resistance, the lower the buzz at least on my device. However, I went back to a .100ohm build because flavor and vapor production wasn't that great for me at such low resistance with 28g 3mm. Not enough surface area. Decent vape but too light for my liking.

I'm done testing this now. My device works perfectly and until YiHi says something is wrong with it, I will continue to use it without any hesitation.
 

a tez

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Hi all..
I'm using 28 G hardened ni200 with about 7 wraps 3mm id. Set to 230C or about 440F.. 22J
I noted when I fire the device it only ramps up to at most 150F..? No where near the limit of the set temp.
Is it normal?

What power setting are you on (soft, standard, powerful, powerful+)? Also, raise the Joules closer to 30J and you will hit that temp. I'm using 28g 3mm 6 wraps at .100ohm with my settings at 27J Powerful+ 420F. I'm hovering around 400-415F while I take a vape.

Let your mod sit till it's room temperature again and then reset the resistance and see what you get.
 

Impulso

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I mentioned this before and I'll repeat it again since lots of discussion on this. My provari does it too(only when held up to my ear). It may just be the electronics.

The frequency of the buzz changes as I change my coils out. I'll randomly miscount the number of coils now and then, and end up with higher or lower ohms than I expected and the pitch changes.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Vlad1

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I mentioned this before and I'll repeat it again since lots of discussion on this. My provari does it too(only when held up to my ear). It may just be the electronics.

The frequency of the buzz changes as I change my coils out. I'll randomly miscount the number of coils now and then, and end up with higher or lower ohms than I expected and the pitch changes.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

We have to have something to take it off of it's Throne. :) It cant all be praise else this thread would go dead.

I seriously don't think anyone is concerned about it as much as they are curious to know why. I know the terms, problem, issue etc. have been used but really I think that's just careless usage of words and I don't think anyone really looks at it as either. But if they do they should contact their vendor and warranty it.
 

dr g

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That is true enough... But what is the temp of the inside surface of the pot where it is making contact with the water? With the coil making direct contact with the juice, combined with the airflow across the coil, it is going to be much less than it would reach if we were to remove the juice and the airflow.

Again, not what is being measured. It's the average temperature of the stove burner.

BTW there is some FLIR stuff out there that shows normal kanthal coils reaching 700+ degrees in normal use.
 
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