This is sort of off topic but hearing that the Lemo2 is also working well with nickel. Does it leak when laid on its side?
SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)
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Mine leaks a little after a re-fill. It also gurgles for a time after a refill.
A couple of times I have had to lay it on it side with the air port down and soak up the small amount of juice. Once I do that the problem is gone until the next re-rill.
I know there are folks that claim they don't leak maybe it is just the luck of the draw.
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Yeah they opened up the ordering yesterday so got it ordered yesterday should be shipped today. I hope they come out with a skin soon.
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Just got an email from Varitube. My M has shipped. Now to watch for arrival.
Hello all,
Been using my M Class for a few days now with just authentic K4s. I wonder how any of you are getting on? My first two days I had 10ml before I needed to re-wick. Now it seems every hour, I am sure it's me.
I am using .30 ni200 from Cloud 9 (good people in the UK) and have several other types including the hard stuff. But I think it could well be the K4 510. I do have the s kit fitted on all of my six (yes six authentic) K4 decks so I can play around a bit. I want to make a weeks worth of builds when I travel.
One thing I would like to see is a universal 510 connection. The MFGs really need to unify this as every atty I have is different. I suspect this is causing many issues with TC.
Also I would LOVE to see inductive charging for the SX mini. This would solve so many issues for me as I would like to use it as a desktop too. Using a USB is ok but an inductive kit would be a great feature. Is there a USB type kit out there? I did look but found nothing
So, I would very much appreciate anyone using a K4 excusively for their SX and how they are fairing.
Now to try a new build
Been using my M Class for a few days now with just authentic K4s. I wonder how any of you are getting on? My first two days I had 10ml before I needed to re-wick. Now it seems every hour
, I am sure it's me. I am using .30 ni200 from Cloud 9 (good people in the UK) and have several other types including the hard stuff. But I think it could well be the K4 510. I do have the s kit fitted on all of my six (yes six authentic) K4 decks so I can play around a bit. I want to make a weeks worth of builds when I travel.
One thing I would like to see is a universal 510 connection. The MFGs really need to unify this as every atty I have is different. I suspect this is causing many issues with TC.
Also I would LOVE to see inductive charging for the SX mini. This would solve so many issues for me as I would like to use it as a desktop too. Using a USB is ok but an inductive kit would be a great feature. Is there a USB type kit out there? I did look but found nothing
So, I would very much appreciate anyone using a K4 excusively for their SX and how they are fairing.
Now to try a new build
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It's not the 510 connection mate, it's the juice control and that bloody spring that's likely causing your problems with the K4.
Get the Steam Tuners spring update kit which will solve your problem, or you could try the new stiffer gold plated spring direct from SM, which helps.
Get the Steam Tuners spring update kit which will solve your problem, or you could try the new stiffer gold plated spring direct from SM, which helps.
Don't know about the sx but a dna will not always jump out of tc mode. You really need a crappy build for that to actually happen.
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
Very kind of you but I have the new spring from SM in all my six bases. I just put a 4 coil wrap using .30 ni200 and getting 0.3ohms? Does that sound right? I seem to get a different reading every time. But I am learning. I am also using one of those head magnifyers so I get a good clean connection on my builds. So I do know that is not my problem.
Cheers mate
^^^^^ Hard to believe part # 9 could be too loose/tight on all six K4's, but one could be. Check the Assembly Diagram to see what I'm talking about. Then, check YT or search the Svoemesto K4 thread for instructions on how to fix.
Again, I do not believe you could have six authentics with a poorly installed part # 9, though that could certainly be the cause of erratic resistance reading.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Again, I do not believe you could have six authentics with a poorly installed part # 9, though that could certainly be the cause of erratic resistance reading.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If I did it correctly you would need about 14 wraps assuming a 3mm mandrel to get .3Ω with 30 awg. Not sure what type of wire your stating 30awg or .30mm but you can check here to see what you should be at roughly. Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
Honestly I havent even tried my Lemo's or anything on my M temp, I have been using Kanger Subtank mini deck with 28g, 2.5mm, 12 wrap ni200 @ 0.11 Ohm, 20j, 380-400F and on about day 6 without rewicking. I think alot will depend on juice and what kind of power and temp your running at.
I agree. My first two decks worked for 10ml. I have not used them again yet. I will check part 9 on all my desks. I only just got all this stuff (£500 on K4 stuff alone) as I found the K4 the best for me trying to give up smoking. I am not there yet though and hope I can work this out soon.
Big thanks to all of you! Wonderful bunch you all are
Did more testing/trying... Together with my DNA40(at 19W)...
27G about 5 wraps id 2.5mm 0.1ohms
Tried a few coils, but the SX does not register the difference in resistance?(the dna40 did)
Dry burn..
On the VS TC came on and no glow on coil.
On the SX (same atty) 15J the heat continues to ramp up. Glow in coil. Reading as normal, no dry wick warning no power cut?
Change atty back on the VS, slight change in resistance (0.13ohms), but coil stays normal.. No glowing.
I thot it was bcos of the 'hardened' ni200.. But the above was done on the normal soft ni200...
From above info is it normal? Or does it seems I may have a faulty unit?
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Could be he is using NiChrome instead of Ni200. It's happened before.
Or he's measuring a hot/warm coil. Or he's locked resistance once on a hot coil and never reset it.
A little tired of the conversation on the buzz / humm since it seems to be so trivial yet so much focus on it. So I decided to put a list together of anything I'd like to see improved upon.
Subjective as this may be if Yihi asked me what I would like changed to make this an absolutely perfect device for me this is what I would suggest including the overly nitpicky things.
The device documentation could be improved. And Yihi could certainly do better with providing better documentation on the client upgrade software.
Paint could be better or anodized. My wedding band is marring the paint.
Slight misalignment of case of about .1mm - .2mm
No battery charge indicator other than on the lcd screen battery bar when illuminated. For the rare times I want to use the onboard charger I'd like a better charge indicator.
No Battery voltage displayed in Joule mode only battery bar.
The battery cap is stainless steel and solid feeling but the tube is brass with fine threads, this seems delicate to me and I'm fearful I will cross thread at some point when not paying attention. I
Wish it was either coarse threads or different design.
I wish they produced a battery option that went in front of the device keeping with the design.
While in Joule mode and exiting the menu system after making an adjustment to the Joules or temperature the display shows a unknown or random number until the fire button is pressed once, then displays the temperature that was set in the menu system.
The first press getting into the ""ADJ"" menu when using the switches adjusts down automatically. I wish it would not make that first adjustment and let me choose if I want to adjust up or down.
That's all I can think of. I'm sure others have other wish lists / cons that differ from mine but changing these would make this device absolutely perfect to me. Most of what I've listed is pretty trivial so they have little weight compared to all the pros so that being said I still give this at least a 99 out of 100. Let the feeding frenzy begin.
Subjective as this may be if Yihi asked me what I would like changed to make this an absolutely perfect device for me this is what I would suggest including the overly nitpicky things.
The device documentation could be improved. And Yihi could certainly do better with providing better documentation on the client upgrade software.
Paint could be better or anodized. My wedding band is marring the paint.
Slight misalignment of case of about .1mm - .2mm
No battery charge indicator other than on the lcd screen battery bar when illuminated. For the rare times I want to use the onboard charger I'd like a better charge indicator.
No Battery voltage displayed in Joule mode only battery bar.
The battery cap is stainless steel and solid feeling but the tube is brass with fine threads, this seems delicate to me and I'm fearful I will cross thread at some point when not paying attention. I
Wish it was either coarse threads or different design.
I wish they produced a battery option that went in front of the device keeping with the design.
While in Joule mode and exiting the menu system after making an adjustment to the Joules or temperature the display shows a unknown or random number until the fire button is pressed once, then displays the temperature that was set in the menu system.
The first press getting into the ""ADJ"" menu when using the switches adjusts down automatically. I wish it would not make that first adjustment and let me choose if I want to adjust up or down.
That's all I can think of. I'm sure others have other wish lists / cons that differ from mine but changing these would make this device absolutely perfect to me. Most of what I've listed is pretty trivial so they have little weight compared to all the pros so that being said I still give this at least a 99 out of 100. Let the feeding frenzy begin.
Could be he is using NiChrome instead of Ni200. It's happened before.
Could be.. someone else was earlier in the thread and they didn't realize it.
I can't help with the sx, sorry. Maybe someone with hands on experience can help.
What I can say by looking at the specifics of your build is that something is wrong.
27g ni 200 has a lower resistance than 28g per mm /foot whatever.
I need 10 wraps of 28g on a 2.5mm mandrel to get to 0.1 or 0.11
You say your coil has half the wraps, thicker wire and yet your resistance is the same as mine?
Did you let the mod and the atty rest for 15 minutes, connected both and set the base resistance? If you did, it's something in the atty. If you didn't, time to do it.
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
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