SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

[350ZMO]

I have noticed that the initial resistance reading for me has been wrong on multiple occasions. I just put a fresh kanger Ni200 OCC and it read .224ohm, and then I reset it and it read .101ohm without firing. This is with both the mod and coil at room temp. When firing at .101ohm I couldn't get the mod to get anywhere near the temp I have it set at (400F). Then I waited 10 min, reset it again and it read .14ohm. Kanger rates the coil at .15 and my ohm reader is reading it at .14ohm as well. As soon as it went to .14ohm and I fired it, it was able to hit the temp I have it set at.

Since there is no refinement process I feel like this can become a problem if it is not firing at the correct ohm.

Possibly but what I have found with the DNA40 is the refinement doesn't correct for 510, post screws or build connection problems. If its a bad connection it will remain bad until resolved regardless of refinement mode. I actually appreciate the simplicity of the U-set-it base resistance approach. If I put a different atty on then I know to reset it. If it's been sitting unused or got cold or hot then I know to reset it. It's the one thing I missed on the 40, an operator button press base resistance reset. I always had to trick it into resetting. For me this is much simpler. If it's not vaping right or not displaying a resistance I know it should be close to, then I start looking for connection problems. Whereas on the 40 it would stop displaying temperature and display volts. What would be interesting is if this doesn't drop out of Joules mode with a Kanthal build or bad connection atty. I'll have to try that...

 

[a tez]

If you think it's an issue, perhaps you should RMA it.. Mine's been nothing but rock-solid with the SMOK Gimlet's Ni200 coils since I've had it..

It's probably the coil but in power mode it reads .16ohm right away. If rather not have to send it back. It's only happened with the OCC and not my RBA so I'll just do more testing.

 

[a tez]

Its not the coils though because the nano works great! Anyway, the RBA deck works fantastically well! I managed to get hold of some spare RBA heads and a mini base so I can mess around while I am vaping! Happy days!

I have the nano as well and on my DNA 40s it is the same experience as the Mini. Same refinement. I will test it on the SX Mini as well.

 

[dam718]

Well, what I mean is that the Cloupor T6 has a temperature reading at the 510 connector (I believe that's where it's taking a temp reading).

The temp reading may not be of the kanthal itself, but it does give a relative measurement. I always look at the mod temp reading, when I hit a reading over 36-38, it's time to slow down/stop. It may not be that advanced, but it definitely works as long as there's juice on the coil I don't get dry, too hot, or too harsh hits simply paying attention to that reading.

The SX does not do that, leaving me completely in the dark with kanthal. Maybe you can feel the atomizer for temp, or feel it in the vape, but with the T6 I can just avoid this issue pretty much all-together loosely monitoring the screen. IDK, maybe this feature is unique to Cloupor.

I still haven't had a chance to try a nickel build. On the SX I already overvaped unknowingly, dark/gunked juice leaked into the tank after some light priming puffs. There's just no relative measurement. Of course this would also happen on a T6, but I'd go through at least 8-10ml before this would happen (on my current diy juice). Vaping blindly, it happened after 2ml on the SX.



Edit: Found a picture online for reference.

View attachment 425702

Not saying it's perfect, the coil can & does overheat since there's no temperature control over the coil itself. Not true TC, but it gave me some loose, relative guideline when vaping with kanthal.

Without getting in to the WAY too geeky physics side of why Kanthal / Nichrome won't work well in this application, and why Nickel does work, I will briefly explain the difference in what I hope are laymen's terms.

In physics, when referencing metals/alloys there is a formula that is used to calculate the temperature coefficient of resistance. In other words, the amount of change in resistance of a metal as its temperature changes.

Kanthal / Nichrome has a very minimal temperature coefficient. This means that as the metal is heated up, its resistance changes very little.

Nickel, on the other hand, has a very high temperature coefficient. One of the highest of the natural metal elements, in fact. This means that as the temperature of nickel changes, there is a significant predictable and measurable change in resistance.

Temperature Control chipsets like the SX350J and DNA40 aren't necessarily measuring temperature as they are the resistance of the coil. This is why we set a baseline resistance with the mod and coil at ambient temperature of the room. The chip can then predict what the required change in resistance it needs to see in order to bring it up to the desired temperature. As you fire the coil, the temperature rises along with the resistance of the wire. Once the resistance meets what the chipset wants to see, it limits the output current to maintain the coil at the predicted resistance reading. Effectively, it is using the coil as both the heating element AND the temperature sensor. This would never work with a straight kanthal / nichrome build (and it's not supposed to), at least not with the current technology.

I think, as someone else mentioned, that you kinda got lucky with the cloupor. I know for me, using a Kanthal / Nichrome build, I just kinda figured out when I needed to drip some more, or tilt, or refill by trial and error over a long period of time... I can get one good lung hit from 2 drops, so if I drip 8 drops that will be like 4 good pulls... Or something like that... LoL... With TC using a nickel build, you won't have to worry about that anymore

 

[a tez]

I have, what happens? I get vapor.

There is a reason why ni200 is only recommended on TC mods. It's a lot more risky. It's super low resistance and heats up extremely fast. Dry burn a .1ohm kanthal build at 10 watts and it with take a day to turn red. Dry burn ni200 at 10 watts and it will glow red instantly.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

I have the nano as well and on my DNA 40s it is the same experience as the Mini. Same refinement. I will test it on the SX Mini as well.

ok. One thing I have noticed is that the base of the coils where the air flow holes are can be a little loose. Have you tried throwing a small screwdriver through the holes and tightening them (really tight)? Just a thought.

 

[350ZMO]

Just like when the 40 came out I think once again we're going to find people that have not used a TP mod will learn that it is a great tool for finding connection issues in the attys and builds they never knew they had when using a non-TP mod. Hopefully this will help some folks. Bugs aside, it is possible to have a bad Mini but before you suspect that, check all your atty connections. The 510 connector, center post screws, coil screws, all have to be very tight and solid. Clean those 510s. Use Q-tips and everclear. I have chucked up q-tips in a power drill with everclear and then baking soda to polish spring loaded 510 connectors. Cartridge coils can be iffy sometimes as the connections depend on pressure from a pin and rubber grommet not a screw that cinches down and especially if the atty has a spring in it. TP mods work on very low resistance and any little connection anomaly can cause problems. At least the battery connections in the Mini seem really good so that shouldn't be an issue as it was with some 40s.

 

[Woofer]

There is a reason why ni200 is only recommended on TC mods. It's a lot more risky. It's super low resistance and heats up extremely fast. Dry burn a .1ohm kanthal build at 10 watts and it with take a day to turn red. Dry burn ni200 at 10 watts and it will glow red instantly.

The world doesn't tilt on it's axis. I just get vapor, not as nice as TC vapor, but vapor.
I dry burn Ni regularly.
The resistance also rises very quickly.

 

[dannyben]

Sorry if i missed it, but where were you able to acquire just the chips from?

Don't see them on GV.

Don't know if they added it to their site yet, but i was im'ing with them when the rep told me they had them available.

 

[tchavei]

Each time I visit this thread I start hyperventilating and I can actually feel the heat of my credit card in my back pocket.

I don't need another TC device. Mine is working just great but... I don't know... I feel some kind of urge just looking at those pics...

Last time I felt that was with an erlprinz that I ended buying and which has over 1L juice through it. Best buy I ever did in this hobby...

I can even hear a female sexy voice whispering "You know you want me Tony, come an get me... I'll make it worth it baby"

I think I'm losing my mind here...

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[dam718]

Each time I visit this thread I start hyperventilating and I can actually feel the heat of my credit card in my back pocket.

I don't need another TC device. Mine is working just great but... I don't know... I feel some kind of urge just looking at those pics...

Last time I felt that was with an erlprinz that I ended buying and which has over 1L juice through it. Best buy I ever did in this hobby...

I can even hear a female sexy voice whispering "You know you want me Tony, come an get me... I'll make it worth it baby"

I think I'm losing my mind here...

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

DO IT!!! Seriously, this is a great little device... You won't be disappointed!

 

[350ZMO]

Each time I visit this thread I start hyperventilating and I can actually feel the heat of my credit card in my back pocket.

I don't need another TC device. Mine is working just great but... I don't know... I feel some kind of urge just looking at those pics...

Last time I felt that was with an erlprinz that I ended buying and which has over 1L juice through it. Best buy I ever did in this hobby...

I can even hear a female sexy voice whispering "You know you want me Tony, come an get me... I'll make it worth it baby"

I think I'm losing my mind here...

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

Well I just ordered another one if that makes you feel any better. LOL I bought this one as a test and for the wife if it worked out and it has so now I'll get myself a grey one. Although I'm going to sneak it from her very now and then until mine arrives.

 

[tchavei]

Jeez, you're not helping lol

Now George also has one..

Oh man... No no no... Have to resist.

I'm going for a cold shower.

BRB

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[reeftivo]

Jeez, you're not helping lol

Now George also has one..

Oh man... No no no... Have to resist.

I'm going for a cold shower.

BRB

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

If you ever get the chance to hold an M class then DON'T! You'll buy it if you do.

Super solid little device!!!!!

Working flawlessly for me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[puffon]

I can even hear a female sexy voice whispering "You know you want me Tony, come an get me... I'll make it worth it baby"

Then I hear the real female yelling at me:
"You just bought a rDNA, and it's working fine"

I'd better wait for v2

 

[dr g]

I'm sure this will go over well, but I'll just say this: If there is no automatic temperature calibration in a TC device, then the temperature display is basically meaningless, particularly across mods.

 

[dam718]

I'm sure this will go over well, but I'll just say this: If there is no automatic temperature calibration in a TC device, then the temperature display is basically meaningless, particularly across mods.

As much as I would love to see automatic calibration, there are a couple of outlying issues that I think would prevent it from being reliable, and likely why YiHi and Evolve have opted to not use it.

1) The device would have to know the ambient temp at all times. While this may seem simple enough, the smaller we make these things the more variables we throw in. The boards will heat up, we know that. The external casing and battery will heat up. We know that. You holding the device in your hand will heat it up (or cool it down as the case may be). We know that... So, how would the device know the true ambient temp of the environment? Where do you put the sensor? Do you have a Bluetooth v4 temp sensor sitting in the room somewhere, and allow the device to attach to the sensor in order to determine ambient room temp? Putting the sensor anywhere on the device I think would prove too unreliable unless it has timers... No less than 5 minutes from the last fire button press or something like that, and then perform auto calibration.

2) The device would have no way to know if the coil is at ambient temp. There is no temp sensor at the coil, it IS the temp sensor, so it's up to the user to tell the device that the coil is at ambient temp. Again, this could be assumed if there was some kind of timer used once you attach a coil. But how much time is enough? 5 minutes? 2 minutes? 1 minute?

That's the only way I could se it working is if there was a temperature sensor on the outside of the device, and a timer from the last time you press the fire button. Otherwise it would be terribly unreliable. It would still be unreliable, especially if the device was in your pocket, or the temp sensor was otherwise fouled when it performed its auto calibration.

 

[dr g]

As much as I would love to see automatic calibration, there are a couple of outlying issues that I think would prevent it from being reliable, and likely why YiHi and Evolve have opted to not use it.

Um, Evolv does use it.

 

[tchavei]

The dna does calibrate automatically as far as I know and does have an onboard temperature sensor. At least that's what I heard.

No idea about the sx mini but it would make sense to have one to work well in low and high temperature environments.

Has anybody bothered doing the water test on a sx mini yet?

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[Technonut]

Has anybody bothered doing the water test on a sx mini yet?

As a matter of fact, yes.. The temp fluctuates between 212-220F when I keep the deep wells in my Orieco Storm A RDA full of water. The resistance was 0.11 / 25.0J / 425F...