SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

[Ian444]

Yeah, In "Joules" mode there isn't anything to indicate the charge level of the battery. If you shifted back over to Power mode, it would tell you.

That is a bit of an annoyance. It would be nice if it showed the battery level at all times. Personally, I could do without the "Joules" meter in the bottom left of the display. That seems about as gimmicky as a puff counter. Not really sure of it's usefulness other than to loosely determine how much you're getting out of a battery charge...

Are you saying there is no battery voltage indication at all in temp mode, what about the battery bar graph, is it gone?

The joules counter in the bottom left is not really needed IMO but it sure seems a great way to compare the health of your batteries, if you drain each one to the same voltage, it'll tell you if any are weak. Great for brand A/brand B comparisons too I would think. Could be wrong since I don't own one...yet.

 

[dam718]

Are you saying there is no battery voltage indication at all in temp mode, what about the battery bar graph, is it gone?

The joules counter in the bottom left is not really needed IMO but it sure seems a great way to compare the health of your batteries, if you drain each one to the same voltage, it'll tell you if any are weak. Great for brand A/brand B comparisons too I would think. Could be wrong since I don't own one...yet.

The battery bar is still there in Joules mode. In power mode, in the space just under the battery bar, it also shows the written voltage remaining of the battery. That area shows your set temperature in Joules mode. When you charge it via USB, the bar graph only shows a lightning bolt over the battery outline, so if you're in Joules mode there is nothing to tell you what the voltage is during the charging cycle. If you charge it in power mode you can actually see the voltage reading rise as the charge progresses.

I do agree about the Joules meter being beneficial for comparing batteries, but that's about all I can think of that it would be useful for.

 

[jhawk]

Is the mini 22mm, 23mm or?

 

[dam718]

It is roughly 24mm wide... All I have is a measuring tape, not a caliper or anything, so not the most accurate source of measurement... And I'm measuring out around 15/16" at the base of the device (where the battery cover is) which converts to 23.8125mm.

This picture isn't the best... But it shows the the top of the device with a 22mm tank screwed into the 510...

The 510 base is 23mm at the bottom, at the very top of the base it has a small bevel that tapers it to 22mm on the deck. The body of the device is just slightly larger than the 510 connection.

 

[retird]

First modding video I've seen of the 350J... can't understand a word but..... knew there were a few modders here so here ya go....judge build quality for yourself....

 

[2legsshrt]

Nor could I with evolv i mean the best they could come up with was no detailed temperature instructions in the official evolv manual and a terrible interview with Busardo who has no idea of monitoring sound levels!

Seriously let evolv deal with there business intelligence i mean we know why you and the Dr sit in these threads why care about YiHi? Your only reason for posting is to state another product is superior I would never recommended anyone to buy a DNA40, countless board revisions telling everyone the problems are solved and a 8 week warranty turn around with all the hassle after building a mod!

Yeah but they are a fantastic VW box mod that feels good in your hand with a skin. You have to make do with 40w but I love mine never use TC anymore though. I love my SX Sclass also but the jury is still out if I want to give nickel another try and spring for an M.

 

[Sptz]

what atty you using mate?? And which wire for that matter?

best

steve

I'm using an Erlkonigin Nano and tempered ni200 28AWG.

I'm liking Titanium so far on my DNA40's... only found .5mm so far (24g), but works pretty much like thicker Kanthal.
Sems to hold up better and its pretty consistent.
Any comments on using it on the SX it TC mode?

TC is working absolutely spot on so far. I did the "dry cotton test", fired the atty without any juice in the cotton and it instantly displayed "dry coil" and didn't fire at all. Haven't had any glitches and the vape is phenomenal so far.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

I'm using an Erlkonigin Nano and tempered ni200 28AWG.

View attachment 425901
View attachment 425899



TC is working absolutely spot on so far. I did the "dry cotton test", fired the atty without any juice in the cotton and it instantly displayed "dry coil" and didn't fire at all. Haven't had any glitches and the vape is phenomenal so far.

Stealthvape tempered?

 

[jhawk]

I have searched for the specs on the mini m but have only found the weight - 152grams. Anyone else have a link or know the size? Thanks!

 

[2legsshrt]

There was someone on here that told me they never have any problems using the OCC NI200 heads on the STmini and their VS just wondering what settings you use and do you still get the TC a lot and just ignore it or is there something wrong with my DNA40 board. I tried 450 at 22w and up to 25 and I get TP all the time which also mutes the vape quality. Is it me or is it my VS?

 

[TheotherSteveS]

The battery bar is still there in Joules mode. In power mode, in the space just under the battery bar, it also shows the written voltage remaining of the battery. That area shows your set temperature in Joules mode. When you charge it via USB, the bar graph only shows a lightning bolt over the battery outline, so if you're in Joules mode there is nothing to tell you what the voltage is during the charging cycle. If you charge it in power mode you can actually see the voltage reading rise as the charge progresses.

I do agree about the Joules meter being beneficial for comparing batteries, but that's about all I can think of that it would be useful for.

ok, at least Im not going mad..

so this sucks imho. It just sits there with a lightning bolt expecting you to realise its charged when it gets to 4.2V. The bloody bolt doesnt even go away. That needs to be fixed.

The other thing that ticks me off is the J vs W mode thing. This applies across the whole memory bank so even if you have say M1 set to x W for a non-TP purpose, if you change to Joules in M3, M1-M5 all go to Joules. Am i missing something?? If not, that is pretty silly!

 

[TheotherSteveS]

I have searched for the specs on the mini m but have only found the weight - 152grams. Anyone else have a link or know the size? Thanks!

what you mean by size? Its also a lot more than 152g..more like 250!

 

[TheotherSteveS]

There was someone on here that told me they never have any problems using the OCC NI200 heads on the STmini and their VS just wondering what settings you use and do you still get the TC a lot and just ignore it or is there something wrong with my DNA40 board. I tried 450 at 22w and up to 25 and I get TP all the time which also mutes the vape quality. Is it me or is it my VS?

did you mean to post this here??

anyway, hitting TP is not the end of the world right?! That is what it is supposed to do. It can happen for a lot of reasons - too high a power, not enough airflow, mis-calibration/bad build etc..If it is having to reduce power completely to a fraction of that you have set then there is probably something wrong with your setup. If it is just bouncing around a bit, dont fret and vape on!!

 

[VictorC]

It will give you a Dry Coil No Liquid warning if you totally run down every drop of juice but the only time I have actually seen that happen is when I fire a totally dry piece of cotton. Others have purposely run out every drop of juice to test the warning. Otherwise it just regulates the temp you set as the juice evaporates! The best part is that it really keeps vaping perfectly and the flavor and vapor gradually decrease.

Does this apply to NI200 wire only?

 

[dam718]

ok, at least Im not going mad..

so this sucks imho. It just sits there with a lightning bolt expecting you to realise its charged when it gets to 4.2V. The bloody bolt doesnt even go away. That needs to be fixed.

The other thing that ticks me off is the J vs W mode thing. This applies across the whole memory bank so even if you have say M1 set to x W for a non-TP purpose, if you change to Joules in M3, M1-M5 all go to Joules. Am i missing something?? If not, that is pretty silly!

I just did some messing around with the memory banks in Power and Joules mode... It would appear to me that there are 10 memory banks. M1 - M5 for Power mode, and M1 - M5 in Joules mode. When I set up the 5 banks in Power and shift to Joules, they all shift to Joules. When I go back to Power mode, all my previous banks were the same as what I had them set to before.

That's pretty sweet. Didn't know it did that!

 

[JimScotty0]

After you make the coil with the coil master, are you pulling the coils apart, or leaving them touching each other? There seems to be some debate on which method is best.

I also have used the coil master and after securing the coil in my atty, I have been using a 6" length of 28ga kanthal stretched tight and sliding it between the wraps to give it a slight spacing between the wires. That same process I use to clean the coil of any gunk between wicking. Even better after that and if I am in the mood, I will drop the build section in an ultrasonic bath for 3 mins. This process has been working fine on my NI200 builds so far and giving a very consistent vape. My builds have been producing between .10 and .12 so far using 28 ga NI200, 2.5 or 3mm rod and about 9-10 wraps. I am finding the vape quite cool even with a setting as high as 460 degrees which is much different than the usual warm vape I am used to getting with Kanthal wire. It is not bad, but different and still with a good cloud and flavor.

 

[tchavei]

First modding video I've seen of the 350J... can't understand a word but..... knew there were a few modders here so here ya go....judge build quality for yourself....

Almost nothing worth translating.

The box is from Conrad (strapu 2024bl) with 72mm x 50mm x 26mm. Pretty close to a ft mini hana.

Right now he probably has the world's smallest yihi 350j mod.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[JimScotty0]

Thank god - this is a post I can understand! I can not be arsed to calculate 9000 jiggawatts to get a satisfying vape. I want to turn the mod on - screw the tank - push a few buttons to set my J-thang - and go...simplistic? Why yes, yes it is...shouldn't it be? 2015 anyone?

Been reading up on Ni200 - seems easy enough to wrap up a few winds around my coil master then throw it into my Kanger/Lemo and wick with KGD/rayon. At least I hope so.

I figure this is why this device intrigues me so much. I am sick to hell of a COIL of all things deciding my vapor - a thin flimsy piece of wire I have to fidget with to get a good vape...why? Why am I buying a $200+ Battery_holder if I_HAVE to do all the work!? Technology?

So if this is a set, load and forget - I'm sold...seems to be from my reading and picking out of all the excellent information (even if most of the technical jaz goes right over my head).

Thanks to all you guys that have the ability to push and test the limits of new devices - I trust more what I read on these forums than anywhere else

For a simple, reliable, and consistent tank vape I am enjoying the Kangertech Mini using the NI200 coils. It rocks pretty good for a quick and easy TC setup on the SX Mini.

 

[HolmanGT]

what you mean by size? Its also a lot more than 152g..more like 250!

Theo,

I weighed SXmini today with battery and a full size lemo topper half full it came in at 325 grams. Not to start a new debate but I weighed my VF DNA40 with two batteries installed and the same topper I used to way the SX and it came in at 310 grams.

And no I am not going to field strip them to get the naked weight. We don't allow "Strip Searches in this house".

PS - I believe the SXmini is all steel no aluminum. My magnet stuck to everything except the front bezel and I believe that is Stainless.

 

[a tez]

For a simple, reliable, and consistent tank vape I am enjoying the Kangertech Mini using the NI200 coils. It rocks pretty good for a quick and easy TC setup on the SX Mini.

Agreed. Running Subtank Mini RBA with a .15ohm 28g coil at 400F and 40J in Power+ (I like faster ramp up time and a warmer vape).