SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

[jazzvaper]

Did anybody else's battery threads come dirty as heck? Not a big deal, I cleaned them, but OOB there was definitely some filth on them.

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I have not looked but your question poses a potential explanation:

On the second battery change the cover did not go on smoothly. Noticed this IMMEDIATELY and backed out. Took a while to get the cover properly seated. Dirty threads could be a complete explanation. Will check and clean on next battery change, dirty or not.

Suggest others do the same. Once the threads are stripped you are SOL. And, perhaps, out of warranty.


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[dannyben]

The USB primary function is for software upgrades. They recommend replacing the battery when it's discharged rather than using the USB. I understand your point though, I intend on charging through it when I'm out and would like some type of indicator. Pretty sure I read someone else already answered the memory location settings.

I haven't read the reasoning for not using the USB for charging, is this a safety issue, I just don't have a grasp on why not use it yet.

Although it can, yihi recommends that you DON'T use the device as pass-through.
If the lightning bolt and graphic indicator are not enough, you can, with a few clicks, put the device in power mode to see the voltage while charging and right back to joules mode afterwards. Not as convenient, but there is only so much real estate... Perhaps a future firmware update with automatically turn the temp reading to Voltage when USB is plugged in.
Also.... they have be promising to turn on the built in LED thats in the fire button -- that will turn from red to green. Surprised it is not in v1.4

 

[TheotherSteveS]

dont shoot the messenger here and most people wont care anyway but ...just posted this in the Ni vs Ti thread..

Not sure what is going on but I just managed to burn cotton on the sx. 0.17ohm space build, Ti 24g on RBA deck of subtank wicked with muji OC. Set for 20J and 350F. So the problem is that it goes almost straight away to Dry Coil message and all is well, however if you keep the button down it keeps trying from scratch. After a 5 cycles of this the cotton starts to burn. Just to be sure I took the deck off and put it on my chinese DNA40-clone VF knockoff and repeated. Holding down fire button it keeps going but power sits around 1W or so and essentially all is fine.

On the sx, the burn mark accumulates on one of the end wraps so it might be a hot leg issue. I dry pulsed in power mode to light it up a bit but doesn't look like a hot leg - looked pretty good in fact!

I think there might be an issue here. It seems to fine with Ti on a single pulse but it seems to put too much power through the Ti coil before it detects a dry coil situation. Because it then tries again...and again... eventually enough heat accumulates such that the wick cooks...Maybe this isn't a problem in a real world situation for Ti coils but it doesn't look like the SX is as tolerant of Ti as the DNA40s.

So to confirm I did it with Ni - 32g work hardened stuff - 0.21ohm - same deck etc.

Same story on 'DNA40'. All fine as expected. Significantly for Ti lovers, no problems on M-class either and I didnt really expect any. It cycles as before but it doesn't burn.

Go figure...certainly looks like SX is doing things differently from DNA40-style chips...Im confused...

Can someone else have a go maybe ?????

 

[tchavei]

dont shoot the messenger here and most people wont care anyway but ...just posted this in the Ni vs Ti thread..

Not sure what is going on but I just managed to burn cotton on the sx. 0.17ohm space build, Ti 24g on RBA deck of subtank wicked with muji OC. Set for 20J and 350F. So the problem is that it goes almost straight away to Dry Coil message and all is well, however if you keep the button down it keeps trying from scratch. After a 5 cycles of this the cotton starts to burn. Just to be sure I took the deck off and put it on my chinese DNA40-clone VF knockoff and repeated. Holding down fire button it keeps going but power sits around 1W or so and essentially all is fine.

On the sx, the burn mark accumulates on one of the end wraps so it might be a hot leg issue. I dry pulsed in power mode to light it up a bit but doesn't look like a hot leg - looked pretty good in fact!

I think there might be an issue here. It seems to fine with Ti on a single pulse but it seems to put too much power through the Ti coil before it detects a dry coil situation. Because it then tries again...and again... eventually enough heat accumulates such that the wick cooks...Maybe this isn't a problem in a real world situation for Ti coils but it doesn't look like the SX is as tolerant of Ti as the DNA40s.

So to confirm I did it with Ni - 32g work hardened stuff - 0.21ohm - same deck etc.

Same story on 'DNA40'. All fine as expected. Significantly for Ti lovers, no problems on M-class either and I didnt really expect any. It cycles as before but it doesn't burn.

Go figure...certainly looks like SX is doing things differently from DNA40-style chips...Im confused...

Can someone else have a go maybe ?????

So if I got this right this issue presents with Ti onky?

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[HolmanGT]

I have not looked but your question poses a potential explanation:

On the second battery change the cover did not go on smoothly. Noticed this IMMEDIATELY and backed out. Took a while to get the cover properly seated. Dirty threads could be a complete explanation. Will check and clean on next battery change, dirty or not.

Suggest others do the same. Once the threads are stripped you are SOL. And, perhaps, out of warranty.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Jazz,

I too had difficulty getting the battery cap to go on smoothly. I discovered that is just a tight fit between the battery and the cap that prevents the cap from aligning correctly.

If you take the battery and insert it into the cap and then holding the SX mostly vertical and insert the battery and cap as a single unit you should find that the batter and cap stay aligned and will screw in easily. But just like any fine threaded cap just go easy and even give it a couple of CCW turns until you hear the threads drop in and then it will screw in smoothly. But putting the battery in first and then adding the cap just doesn't work very well.

 

[kbriggs]

I'm using a ohm tester that reads out to the thousandths place for sub ohm builds...
USA Ohm Meters

All of the ohm meters I see on this site say "Accurate to +/- 0.018 Ohms" so that third decimal place is meaningless.

 

[jazzvaper]

Jazz,

I too had difficulty getting the battery cap to go on smoothly. I discovered that is just a tight fit between the battery and the cap that prevents the cap from aligning correctly.

If you take the battery and insert it into the cap and then holding the SX mostly vertical and insert the battery and cap as a single unit you should find that the batter and cap stay aligned and will screw in easily. But just like any fine threaded cap just go easy and even give it a couple of CCW turns until you hear the threads drop in and then it will screw in smoothly. But putting the battery in first and then adding the cap just doesn't work very well.

I did not wait for the next battery change.

What I found was that the battery compartment itself, the brass, was indeed dirty as he**. Deceptive was that the threads on the cap were relatively clean. Load some isopropyl alcohol on a 'vape towel'. Give a few turns and you'll see what I'm talking about.

So, I repeat: Clean the thread, inside and out.


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[shortlex]

All of the ohm meters I see on this site say "Accurate to +/- 0.018 Ohms" so that third decimal place is meaningless.

Wish I could find in Europe.....I'd like to know how much a chinese ohmmeter is accurate

Inviato dal mio L200G

 

[retird]

OFF TOPIC.... just for those who have not heard there is a change coming to ECF ....

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...3-moving-new-forum-software.html#post15591054

 

[Jake67]

Can anyone help? I built what I thought was .014 ohm build. When I set by using the up down buttons. It went to 1.58. I wrapped 12 wraps on a 3 diameter. Totally confused.


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[Vlad1]

Can anyone help? I built what I thought was .014 ohm build. When I set by using the up down buttons. It went to 1.58. I wrapped 12 wraps on a 3 diameter. Totally confused.


Sent from my iPhone

SxMini specs only allow down to .05 did you mean .14 by chance? Also you didn't state type or gauge of wire so that's unknown but typical problems if your using Ni200 is bad contacts to atty, shorted legs / hotspots, dirty connections etc. Really hard to make suggestions other than that with such little known information.

 

[tchavei]

Can anyone help? I built what I thought was .014 ohm build. When I set by using the up down buttons. It went to 1.58. I wrapped 12 wraps on a 3 diameter. Totally confused.


Sent from my iPhone

I think you mean 0.14 Ohms and got 0.158 Ohms, is that right?

A 0.02 ohm difference might be nothing. Steam engine isn't perfect, various ni 200 reels have small diferences between them concerning Ohms per feet and even devices have some error margin. Does it work ok?

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[ndb70]

dont shoot the messenger here and most people wont care anyway but ...just posted this in the Ni vs Ti thread..

Not sure what is going on but I just managed to burn cotton on the sx. 0.17ohm space build, Ti 24g on RBA deck of subtank wicked with muji OC. Set for 20J and 350F. So the problem is that it goes almost straight away to Dry Coil message and all is well, however if you keep the button down it keeps trying from scratch. After a 5 cycles of this the cotton starts to burn. Just to be sure I took the deck off and put it on my chinese DNA40-clone VF knockoff and repeated. Holding down fire button it keeps going but power sits around 1W or so and essentially all is fine.

On the sx, the burn mark accumulates on one of the end wraps so it might be a hot leg issue. I dry pulsed in power mode to light it up a bit but doesn't look like a hot leg - looked pretty good in fact!

I think there might be an issue here. It seems to fine with Ti on a single pulse but it seems to put too much power through the Ti coil before it detects a dry coil situation. Because it then tries again...and again... eventually enough heat accumulates such that the wick cooks...Maybe this isn't a problem in a real world situation for Ti coils but it doesn't look like the SX is as tolerant of Ti as the DNA40s.

So to confirm I did it with Ni - 32g work hardened stuff - 0.21ohm - same deck etc.

Same story on 'DNA40'. All fine as expected. Significantly for Ti lovers, no problems on M-class either and I didnt really expect any. It cycles as before but it doesn't burn.

Go figure...certainly looks like SX is doing things differently from DNA40-style chips...Im confused...

Can someone else have a go maybe ?????

I have unfortunately to confirm this.
Just got an SX-mini-M this week and I'm really loving it, coming from DNA40 I can probably say it's quite more stable and regulates a bit better, but there's definitively something that prevents safe (in the sense of not burning dry cotton sense) use with Ti.
While on the DNA40 I can settle for about 200F and have just a little charring when firing dry, the SX-mini seems to go a bit heavier on its power delivery even while detecting the dry coil and cotton gets eventually burnt even at the lowest temperature setting.
Not a deal breaker for me as Ti is not my main choice, but a heads up to whoever is thinking about completely getting rid of NI200.
Can't really understand the reason, other than an indirect confirmation that Yihi, although relying on the same temperature coefficient concept, does things differently than evolv, and while this seems to pay off with Nickel, can lead to bad surprises with Ti.
Just for reference, my coil was made with TI grade 1 (coming from the golden-greek store), 28ga, 6 spaced wraps I.D. 3mm at about 0.45 homs.
And just to be clear, I'm not claiming a generally dangerous behaviour, I know that probably this is a non-problem with a fully saturated wick, but it's nonetheless quite a big difference in the completely-dry case.

Andrea.

 

[Jake67]

SxMini specs only allow down to .05 did you mean .14 by chance? Also you didn't state type or gauge of wire so that's unknown but typical problems if your using Ni200 is bad contacts to atty, shorted legs / hotspots, dirty connections etc. Really hard to make suggestions other than that with such little known information.

It's reading 1.578. I used 28 gauge wire. Not getting any fluctuations. I'm really confused. Everything is tight and clean. When I attached the atty to the mini it read .14. I set the joules to 27 temp to 410 let it sit for 15 minutes set the resistance. At first I got the dry coil message. Rest the resistance and it went to 1.578. (I'm sure of this). Temp is registering 405.
I thought I spaced the coils enough.
I'm sure it's a user error.
I appreciate your help.



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[Jake67]

I think you mean 0.14 Ohms and got 0.158 Ohms, is that right?

A 0.02 ohm difference might be nothing. Steam engine isn't perfect, various ni 200 reels have small diferences between them concerning Ohms per feet and even devices have some error margin. Does it work ok?

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

It works ok. Kinda warm , definitely reading 1.578.



Sent from my iPhone

 

[Vlad1]

I have unfortunately to confirm this.
Just got an SX-mini-M this week and I'm really loving it, coming from DNA40 I can probably say it's quite more stable and regulates a bit better, but there's definitively something that prevents safe (in the sense of not burning dry cotton sense) use with Ti.
While on the DNA40 I can settle for about 200F and have just a little charring when firing dry, the SX-mini seems to go a bit heavier on its power delivery even while detecting the dry coil and cotton gets eventually burnt even at the lowest temperature setting.
Not a deal breaker for me as Ti is not my main choice, but a heads up to whoever is thinking about completely getting rid of NI200.
Can't really understand the reason, other than an indirect confirmation that Yihi, although relying on the same temperature coefficient concept, does things differently than evolv, and while this seems to pay off with Nickel, can lead to bad surprises with Ti.
Just for reference, my coil was made with TI grade 1 (coming from the golden-greek store), 28ga, 6 spaced wraps I.D. 3mm at about 0.45 homs.
And just to be clear, I'm not claiming a generally dangerous behaviour, I know that probably this is a non-problem with a fully saturated wick, but it's nonetheless quite a big difference in the completely-dry case.

Andrea.

I'm pretty new to the temperature control stuff but I'm sitting here thinking a couple things maybe someone can answer. First since it seems all manufactures recommend Nickle wire for use in temperature control devices and I'm assuming they have the engineers with the smarts to tell us what and how to use these devices. Why or what is the intention or purpose of using a different wire than recommended by the manufacturer? The other thing that I'm thinking when using different wire is does the resistivity change exactly the same as Nickle wire as it's heated or kept heated? It would need to be very similar to the recommended wire for the algorithm's to work correctly.

 

[Vlad1]

It works ok. Kinda warm , definitely reading 1.578.



Sent from my iPhone

Using Ni200 , 28g with a 3 mm mandrel it would take about 116 wraps to get a resistance of 1.58Ω according to steam engine. You either have something with a bad connection, wrong type of wire or horrible base resistance. Once you know your type of wire is correct and you have resolved any connection issues let the devices and atomizer sit for a bit until they are both at room temperature then hold the up / down buttons simultaneously to set the resistance. If you've resolved all your problems you should be reading similarly to what Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators states.

 

[Croak]

That sounds more like he's using NiChrome N80 rather than Ni200.

 

[JimScotty0]

Jazz,

I too had difficulty getting the battery cap to go on smoothly. I discovered that is just a tight fit between the battery and the cap that prevents the cap from aligning correctly.

If you take the battery and insert it into the cap and then holding the SX mostly vertical and insert the battery and cap as a single unit you should find that the batter and cap stay aligned and will screw in easily. But just like any fine threaded cap just go easy and even give it a couple of CCW turns until you hear the threads drop in and then it will screw in smoothly. But putting the battery in first and then adding the cap just doesn't work very well.

The way I am putting the battery cap on is to go a few reverse turns until you feel it drop into the threads. Then it aligns properly and turn in down. The last thing you want to do is to strip the threads as everyone is well aware of so just go easy and don't try and rush things. I have been tempted to either put a tiny drip of oil or even ejuice but I am worried that will make for a poor electrical contact and increase resistance in the power circuit. Anyone tried some lubricant or would you say this is a no no?

 

[Sptz]

I have not looked but your question poses a potential explanation:

On the second battery change the cover did not go on smoothly. Noticed this IMMEDIATELY and backed out. Took a while to get the cover properly seated. Dirty threads could be a complete explanation. Will check and clean on next battery change, dirty or not.

Suggest others do the same. Once the threads are stripped you are SOL. And, perhaps, out of warranty.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Very true, I thought I was going insane, it didn't want to thread, grabbed a qtip and swiped through and GOD, the amount of dirt and metal shavings was insane.