I put a little white vaseline on threads.. Surely Noalox would be better
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Now I remember that Permatex dielectric grease maybe is the best choice
Inviato dal mio L200G
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SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)
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Edit:
Now I remember that Permatex dielectric grease maybe is the best choice
Inviato dal mio L200G
I think you hit the nail on the head. The 350J chip appears to be tuned for NI200 wire and not for TI. TI may be able to work but you are using it outside of the design engineers anticipation. Yihi must have worked hard to put out their initial v1.4 firmware as quick as possible and still keeping a quality product, but I don't think TI was on their minds to get that working to perfection. We know that when you are using TI you need to bring the TC down by about half just to make it work in a similar way to NI200, but we are fudging it to make it work. It does appear that the dry burn protection is not working for TI wire like it does for NI200 wire.
We can hope that Yihi will fine tune their firmware in the near future to deal with our wishlist. Like what ever happened to stealth mode? I never use it but I know that it is a nice option to have such as in many other mods. I have seen postings about the fire button changing colors either during a USB charge or maybe to identify battery condition but I haven't seen anything about that directly from Yihi. Is it true that there is a light behind the fire button?
Jim,
I use Noalox it is a compound used to enhance electrical conductivity and it works great to keep aluminum and SS threads from binding up. The really nice part is it is none toxic and you can pick it up at Home Depot or Lowes. Just watch out they sell a 0.5 oz size for $3 something and right next to it is an 8 oz bottle fro $4 something.
Also if it gets on your hands it is blackish but it wash right off it is not like the gunk you get off a car engine.
PS - it is recommended by Pro-Vape for all their Mods and you can eve put it on 510 threads. It is just a petroleum jelly with powdered zinc and zinc is also non-toxic (or ever Life Guard at the beach the ones with the white noses would be dead i.e. the white stuff is zinc oxide)
I think you are correct. I think the wire I was sold is chrome and not nickel.
I picked some up at a local B&M.
Thanks for the response. You guys are great!!!
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I'd be careful putting anything on the threads. I've read some dielectric greases have silica that are abrasive so over time you may be slowly sanding away at your threads. I don't care for the battery cap either but it is what it is and keeping it clean, being careful I've had no problems.
Jim,
I use Noalox it is a compound used to enhance electrical conductivity and it works great to keep aluminum and SS threads from binding up. The really nice part is it is none toxic and you can pick it up at Home Depot or Lowes. Just watch out they sell a 0.5 oz size for $3 something and right next to it is an 8 oz bottle fro $4 something.
Also if it gets on your hands it is blackish but it wash right off it is not like the gunk you get off a car engine.
PS - it is recommended by Pro-Vape for all their Mods and you can eve put it on 510 threads. It is just a petroleum jelly with powdered zinc and zinc is also non-toxic (or ever Life Guard at the beach the ones with the white noses would be dead i.e. the white stuff is zinc oxide)
Excellent recommendation Holman! Sounds like that is exactly what I need and might not be a bad idea either for the 510.
From what I remember when seeing pics of a disassembled S Class, the firing button has no LED...
EDIT: Here is one of the pics that ZeroOhm posted in the S Class thread:
I'm pretty sure the button only has engraving.. Light cannot pass through it. When the button is pressed, it directly contacts the switch on the board, so the switch would need to have an LED connected to it, which it does not..
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NO-OX-ID A-SPECIAL | eBay
I have found that NO-OX-ID-A-Special works great on my SXmini threads and makes the battery cap screw on easier. I use this stuff on all my mods.
On the SXmini it helps to learn the location where the threads on the cap engage with the battery housing. This allows you to always make sure the threads are engaging correctly. I place the battery cap in this location and easily turn the cap with light pressure with my thumb. If it does not feel right, I just back the cap up slightly and try again. It helps to be holding the mod upright so the battery holds the cap perfectly level. These threads are very fine and it takes some finesse in handling them.
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I use super lube on my threads. It's a food grade dielectric grease. No abrasives in it at all.
I've used on my Provari's for the past 18 months with no issues at all.
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Vlad1,
You are partially correct about it containing Silica.
Polybutene, Zinc Dust, Silicon Dioxide. But I don't know how much of an abrasive Silica Dioxide is. There is absolute no gritty feeling to it whatsoever. It is recommended by Pro Vape for their Provari series Mods (which ain't cheap).
Also I had a Silver Tesla Mod the battery cap seized up on me. After spending a lot of time getting it off with out damaging it I put Noalox on it and have never again had any trouble with it.
You may be right about it having a slight abrasive property to it I really don't know but that said if it is it is very fine like a Jewelers Polishing Rouge. I have used it on my Tesla Mods out of an absolute need being they are aluminum to aluminum threading and boy when the seize up you are in for a real battle getting the battery cap off. I used it with my ProVaris because Pro Vape recommended it and I used it with my Vapor Flask because the bat plugs are brass into aluminum threads in the main body. With the Vapor Flash if the Brass plugs ever froze up I don't know how the He!! you would ever get them out.
I just don't know Vlad, You ma be spot on or what really happens is just some minor polishing of the threads. My personal observations are if anything it polishes but at such a small degree that I am pretty confident that by the time it could possible do any harm that model Mod would be so out of date you. me and Jim would already be about three new models down the road.
You have me blabbing because you stirred my OCD a tad.
I agree with all of this but the bottom line, and to me the most interesting thing here, is that yihi have a markedly different approach to TC than evolov! There is so much discussion and ranting and raving about copying etc but it really seems on the basis of what I have found and others, that they are different in a fundamental sort of way!
Jake,
Was there any reason you picked Super Lube over Noalox.
By the way to ALL Noalox is not considered a dielectric compound it is actually formulated to enhance electrical conductivity by embedding the zinc particals in to the surface of whatever you apply it to.
I'm sure you've heard the saying "more than one way to skin a cat" this statement holds so true with any type of controls being hardware or software based. A perfect example is back 20x plus years ago when I was in school. The students were required to write specific simple programs in machine language. You would be surprised at how many different approaches there were to accomplish the exact same results. Some were 5 - 6 pages and others were 40.
You're welcome.
Just order some proper Ni200 direct from Lightning Vapes on Ebay in the gauge of your choice, less than $6.00 shipped for 100ft. It's annealed (soft) but I don't have any issues working with annealed these days now that I wrap around the cotton wick first, "silica-style" instead of coiling then wicking Kanthal style.So after almost a week with this SxMini M I've found two major problems. I've only had Ni200 a couple days and one of the problems are only present when in temperature control mode while the other is prevelent regardless if I'm using Kanthal in power mode or Ni200 in temperature control mode. I'll go into more detail describing these problems and then post my recommended fixes at the end. The first problem I noticed most often anytime after I refilled my Kanger Subtank mini either with 28g Kanthal at 10 wrap or while using 28g Ni200 usually around 22.5 watts or 23.5-25 joules. I would refill as normal by turning the device upside down and unscrewing the tank from the base of the atomizer. Sit the SXmini down then fill the tank to just below the chimney shaft on the tank, then turn the SX upside down again and screw the tank back onto the device. Making sure everything was snug before turning upright. Once upright I'd take a couple primer puffs just to make sure I wasn't burning anything. That all done and tank filled I begin puffing, lot's of vapor nice and dense just how I like it but oh my god it tastes like crap. So I change the airflow a bit adjust the temp try it again and again no difference it still tastes like crap. I do this over and over with the same results every time it still tastes like crap. Through the entire tank I adjust the airflow and temperature and it still taste like crap. I don't notice it as much as I go through the tank but I think that's just my tastebuds getting vapors tongue. Nothing I do has any affect until I get to the end of the tank which is where the second major problem comes into effect. As the tank get's lower I begin getting less and less vapor and hence less of that crappy taste that I've dealt with the entire tank full. This happens every time the tank begins to get low up until the point I see "Dry Coil" on the SXmini M. Nothing I do changes this low volume of vapor / flavor except refill the tank. So the problems As I see them are pretty straight forward and easily fixed. Problem 2: The SXmini M does not replenish eliquid when run dry and will shut down the power to the atomizer. Solution: Refill the tank with ejuice once low. Problem 1: The SXmini M does not make Vlad1's crappy tasting home brew ejuice taste any better. Solution: Thoroughly clean tank, throw away Vlad1's crappy tasting home brew ejuice and never use again. Refill tank with premium ejuice and vape happy.
Vlad1,
Join my club. I have tried DIY many times and always go back to store bought. Whatever I do my home made stuff tastes like Do-Do.
PS - not just store bought but nothing less in quality than lets say Heather's or Alt-Cig. The really inexpensive store bought doesn't cut it either.
Join my club. I have tried DIY many times and always go back to store bought. Whatever I do my home made stuff tastes like Do-Do.
PS - not just store bought but nothing less in quality than lets say Heather's or Alt-Cig. The really inexpensive store bought doesn't cut it either.
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Yes. I was told by an electrician that Noalox had an some abrasive agents that could potentially harm the threads on my mods. Super Lube has no abrasive agents.
It's worked well and cleans off easily.
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I whish it had the zinc particles to enhance conductivity but yes I looked it up including the MSDS sheet and it is as clean as new fallen snow.
But it does have Silica something:
1.Polydimethylsiloxane <95%
2.Polypropylene Glycol =< 2.5%
3.Fumed Silica 2.5 - 10%
I have no idea what Fumed Silica is but it has it whatever "it" is.
I'm not really a picky flavor vapor but some of the stuff I've made just terrible. Really only thing I've liked diy so far is simple capella vanilla custard at about 15% with a little sweetener. I'm kinda frugal, cheap, tight etc.. etc.. so pretty much anything I can do to save I'm all over it including the cheap store bought but that seems hit or miss as well which is why I want some good diy that I can control the consistency / quality of.
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