SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

[HolmanGT]

Much better choice as "A Special" is a conductive grease and will be better where conductivity is important such as the battery threaded cover used on the mini and many other devices...

retird,

Where did you get the information that it is a conductive grease?

I just looked it up and it makes no mention of any conductivity properties. As a matter of fact it sound like a new version of Cosmoline that the military used to pack EVERYTING in. Actually they taught it more as a goopy rust inhibitor i.e. Cosmoline.

 

[retird]

retird,

Where did you get the information that it is a conductive grease?

I just looked it up and it makes no mention of any conductivity properties. As a matter of fact it sound like a new version of Cosmoline that the military used to pack EVERYTING in. Actually they taught it more as a goopy rust inhibitor i.e. Cosmoline.

From this pdf..... http://www.sanchem.com/docs/NO-OX-ID A-Special Electrical Grade.pdf

NO-OX-ID "A-SPECIAL" is the electrical contact grease of choice in new RoHS Compliant
electrical installations and maintenance because of its excellent performance in keeping metals
free from corrosion. This electrical grease has been used for over 65 years to prevent corrosion
in electrical connectors from low micro-power electronics to high voltage switchgear. This
conductive grease prevents the formation of oxides, sulfides and other corrosion deposits on
copper and aluminum surfaces and conductors can be prevented with its use.

 

[Jake67]

Posting error. Sorry

 

[sedge]

There were several of us a couple of years ago who researced and tried different products including No-Ox-It, Noalox, Silver conductive grease and carbon conductive grease.

We did conclude that Noalox is an anti oxidation compound specifically formulated for aluminum threads and No-Ox-ID is more of an anti-corrosion compound though it has some conductivity enhancement features.

The silver and carbon were great but messy and expensive.

We found Deoxit Gold to be preferable in that it helps increase conductivity, reduces oxidation, does not attract dust, clean and easy to apply and affordable.

 

[DonnyX]

Good stuff!!


Sent from my iPhone 6+ using Tapatalk

 

[HolmanGT]

From this pdf..... http://www.sanchem.com/docs/NO-OX-ID A-Special Electrical Grade.pdf

NO-OX-ID "A-SPECIAL" is the electrical contact grease of choice in new RoHS Compliant
electrical installations and maintenance because of its excellent performance in keeping metals
free from corrosion. This electrical grease has been used for over 65 years to prevent corrosion
in electrical connectors from low micro-power electronics to high voltage switchgear. This
conductive grease prevents the formation of oxides, sulfides and other corrosion deposits on
copper and aluminum surfaces and conductors can be prevented with its use.

retird,

Boy they have a bizarre way of naming their products.

it seem that "No Ox Id A Special" is only part of the product name. This stuff is just grease. and they list an MSDS for it.

The stuff you found is "No Ox Id A Special - Electrical Grade" They do claim it is conductive but I couldn't find an MSDS sheet for it.

It is just strikes me as strange that they have a name like "No Ox Id A Special" but it is different than the other stuff they call "No Ox Id A Special" that you have to hang a take on that say "Electrical Grade". Who'd guessed.

 

[HolmanGT]

There were several of us a couple of years ago who researced and tried different products including No-Ox-It, Noalox, Silver conductive grease and carbon conductive grease.

We did conclude that Noalox is an anti oxidation compound specifically formulated for aluminum threads and No-Ox-ID is more of an anti-corrosion compound though it has some conductivity enhancement features.

The silver and carbon were great but messy and expensive.

We found Deoxit Gold to be preferable in that it helps increase conductivity, reduces oxidation, does not attract dust, clean and easy to apply and affordable.

sedge,

I would never have guessed we had a relative expert on Goop lurking in this thread.

But I do have a question for you how can Deoxit Gold not attract dust? That sounds like alchemy magic to me.

 

[Croak]

Laugh if you want, but I use a sparing amount of virgin coconut oil on my threads. Works great, doesn't attract a lot of dirt, and smells like a day at the beach.

It's also an excellent lube for, um, other things. And tasty. And good for you.

 

[JimScotty0]

Just for some clarification. The fine folks at ProVape have since rescinded their Noalox recommendation, and now recommend NO-OX-ID A Special

Noalox is intended for use on aluminum parts to prevent aluminum oxide. But you're right, I fondly remember the days when ProVape used to preach Noalox non-stop. Guess they finally read the label for Noalox after all these years

That seems like something like this Gardner Bender OX-100B Ox-Gard Anti-Oxidant Compound http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BODU66/ref=crt_ewc_title_gw_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER which has a few vape reviewers saying they use it all the time. It is only $3.27 too. Anyone familiar with this product?

 

[JimScotty0]

Slight offtopic here, is this how the battery meter is supposed to operate or is my battery sagging?

Quick video link: https://www.dropbox.com/s/bpc7f65q3436ymi/MOV_0056.mp4?dl=0

Yeah, I am seeing the same result as in the video with my battery in about the same 35% left condition and at 26 watt vape. My battery is an LG18650HE2 and used through only about 3 recharge cycles so far.

 

[KenD]

It's also an excellent lube for, um, other things. And tasty. And good for you.

Yeah, you don't want to use noalox for that

 

[Croak]

Yeah, you don't want to use noalox for that

At least not until our robot overlords arrive.

 

[sedge]

sedge,

I would never have guessed we had a relative expert on Goop lurking in this thread.

But I do have a question for you how can Deoxit Gold not attract dust? That sounds like alchemy magic to me.

Used sparingly. Wipe excess. My experience has been quite positive. I use it on all contacts and conductive threads/joints in mechs and regulated mods.

I also use it on cell phones and other electronic terminal connections. It is great in exposed USB ports.

 

[JimScotty0]

For all those using the tube extension and wanting to use the USB for charging there was an interesting post in the Yihi SX350J temp control thread a few mins ago about a balance charger board. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-yihi-sx350j-temp-control-7.html#post15608007

I don't think we will able to charge with the tube on using the SX 350 mod from what I can tell. Varitube is selling the board for $10.00. This is for mod builders.

 

[JRizCR2]

how long are you guys running your coils for before throwing in a new one? i must have ran about 5-6 tanks through this since i got it two days ago.

 

[tchavei]

how long are you guys running your coils for before throwing in a new one? i must have ran about 5-6 tanks through this since i got it two days ago.

When they loose performance or snap while you clean and rewick them. Ni 200 becomes brittle so usually you need to rebuild them more often than with kanthal (which usually lasts well over three months).

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[Mazam]

I sold off my extra box mods today (keeping the Sigelei 100w) and took the plunge tonight.

Bought mine at that Gingervaper placed mentioned earlier in this thread. Had all the color combos still in stock, and the guy i spoke to seemed pretty cool/helpful when i called to inquiry about it. Took Paypal too, which is always a plus imo.

 

[JRizCR2]

When they loose performance or snap while you clean and rewick them. Ni 200 becomes brittle so usually you need to rebuild them more often than with kanthal (which usually lasts well over three months).

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

how do you clean the coils? i used to just toss my kanthal builds after a few days and throw another one in.

 

[tchavei]

how do you clean the coils? i used to just toss my kanthal builds after a few days and throw another one in.

Kanthal you only need to dry burn and blow away the burned gunk.

With ni 200 it's more complicated because it will distort and/or snap if you clean it physically with a brush. You don't want to dry burn it because it will become so soft it will collapse under its own weight. When it's cold, it will become even more brittle. I hate nickel lol.

My best results have been using hydrogen peroxide. I soak the coil and deck for a few minutes and wipe the coil gently off with a tissue.

When I have time and nothing better to do, ... I rip out the coil and do a new one.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[Carnage9270]

You can dry burn it if you do a twisted ni200/kathal build

I use 32ga. Very nice to work with and works flawlessly with TC.