SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

[2legsshrt]

The way I am putting the battery cap on is to go a few reverse turns until you feel it drop into the threads. Then it aligns properly and turn in down. The last thing you want to do is to strip the threads as everyone is well aware of so just go easy and don't try and rush things. I have been tempted to either put a tiny drip of oil or even ejuice but I am worried that will make for a poor electrical contact and increase resistance in the power circuit. Anyone tried some lubricant or would you say this is a no no?

This was also a problem with the S class. I asked varitube about it and they asked YiHi and they said it had to be that way because of the spring being at the top rather then being on the bottom. What you are doing is correct turn it backwards a couple of times to get it to take it right and be really carful not to cross thread it. You get used to it after a while. I didn't know that they say not to charge it throught the USB I do that all the time on my S. Every night actually and it works great. HMMM

 

[dannyben]

For all those using the tube extension and wanting to use the USB for charging there was an interesting post in the Yihi SX350J temp control thread a few mins ago about a balance charger board.

I don't think we will able to charge with the tube on using the SX 350 mod from what I can tell. Varitube is selling the board for $10.00. This is for mod builders.

The built in USB charging port is only 450mAh. Even if there was a balance charging board built into the device, 2 batteries (5000mAh) would take over 11 hours to charge. Not to mention the wear on the port. I'll stick to throwing them in my LUC and be fully charged in 75 minutes

 

[Vlad1]

This was also a problem with the S class. I asked varitube about it and they asked YiHi and they said it had to be that way because of the spring being at the top rather then being on the bottom. What you are doing is correct turn it backwards a couple of times to get it to take it right and be really carful not to cross thread it. You get used to it after a while. I didn't know that they say not to charge it throught the USB I do that all the time on my S. Every night actually and it works great. HMMM

They don't actually say not to charge through USB but they say the main purpose is for software updates and then state the 3 month warranty on the USB.

 

[dannyben]

Looks like in beta firmware they had BOTH the temp reading and battery voltage displayed on screen......Wonder why they removed it? Would be nice to have it back.....Or the option to display either the Ohms or Voltage.

 

[IanDVaypes]

I really like how I can set it and forget it. I love the fact that I can change the battery directly after a vape and not have to wait until the atty cools to the same temp before putting in a fresh battery. The dna 40 will reset it's base resistance after changing the battery. I hated that.

 

[derogg]

Out of curiosity what resistance is working best in nickel builds? The user manual says .065 ohms is optimal ( .05-0.3 ohms) Thanks in advance. I hope the mailman has a package for me tomorrow!!
-Dirk

 

[ThunderDan]

I really like how I can set it and forget it. I love the fact that I can change the battery directly after a vape and not have to wait until the atty cools to the same temp before putting in a fresh battery. The dna 40 will reset it's base resistance after changing the battery. I hated that.

I don't seem to have that issue when changing batteries on my DNA40. Does it prompt you for the new coil? Or just auto changes the resistance?

I too like being able to manually set the base resistance. It is working especially well with the Kanger ni200 OCCs, just set the base and go. No cranking up the temp 20 minutes later, which I always had to do after refinement on the dna40.

 

[a tez]

Out of curiosity what resistance is working best in nickel builds? The user manual says .065 ohms is optimal ( .05-0.3 ohms) Thanks in advance. I hope the mailman has a package for me tomorrow!!
-Dirk

I have a .157ohm build in right now and it is working very well.

 

[JimScotty0]

I don't seem to have that issue when changing batteries on my DNA40. Does it prompt you for the new coil? Or just auto changes the resistance?

I too like being able to manually set the base resistance. It is working especially well with the Kanger ni200 OCCs, just set the base and go. No cranking up the temp 20 minutes later, which I always had to do after refinement on the dna40.

No prompting for a new coil. You just manually tell it when you want to recheck the coil resistance when it has settled in to ambient temperature.

 

[JimScotty0]

I don't seem to have that issue when changing batteries on my DNA40. Does it prompt you for the new coil? Or just auto changes the resistance?

I too like being able to manually set the base resistance. It is working especially well with the Kanger ni200 OCCs, just set the base and go. No cranking up the temp 20 minutes later, which I always had to do after refinement on the dna40.

My coils have all so far been between .10 and .12 and are working well.

 

[Braddahbill]

Alright, so I ordered up some 30AWG Ni200, some Japanese cotton (Muji), and a Subtank Mini. Tired of the restrictive airflow on my Kayfun, even after boring out the airflow and center post.

Anyway... Will the 30AWG nickel build a decent coil inside the RBA section of the Subtank Mini? ie, not needing like 80000000 wraps to get to .2 ohms? LoL

I got my SX Mini Saturday afternoon, 28AWG NI200 from Lightning Vapes is really nice to work with - 11/12 wraps 3MM ID 0.15Ω spaced coil. It made for a nice flavorful vape at 25J - 420º on my Lemo drop. I wrapped another coil on my Delta II but it seemed like the Delta II wanted a little more power than 50J - 450º. I want to try the Subtank next but wondering about the airflow as the restricted airflow on the Lemo Drop really brings out the flavor.

I ordered some Tempered Ni200 28AWG from Stealth Vapes to see if it is better to work with as I have read.

Tip: I also made this sewing pin in an Olaf Art Knife to help space the coils, the more you push the pin in-between the coils the more it spaces it out.

 

[ukeman]

I am preferring Ti wire (24g is all I have) because it holds up much better than Ni.

That said, I have never seen or tried 24g Ni200 wire - is there even such a thing?

With 30g Ni200, which I prefer over 28g Ni, I have to change out coils every couple of days of heavy use.
(somehow I have more trouble with the thicker Ni wire)

The dry coil burning issue with Ti in the SX might just be due to the thickness of the darn stuff.

I was hoping to use it on the SX, but the main reason for TP/TC for me is to prevent burning.
I mean inevitably we are going to have a dry coil now and then which is why TP mode is desirable imo; cleaner better tasting, safer vape.

I'll use Ni if I have to, and really the 24g Ti does get hot!
But like I said I prefer it because it holds up and performs really well on my dna40's.

Like the typical "sub ohms" vape with thick kanthal, it doesn't cool down well and I left that behind for 30g kanthal (higher ohms and higher voltage) and a smoother vape.

If you ask me I am disappointed the SX won't be able to perform with Ti.
I guess what I'm saying, with my limited experience with Ti (24g) is it outperforms Ni, sort of like when we first got into sub ohms vaping.
And with TP we don't have to worry so much about the overheating factor.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

Hi Ukeman,

I wouldnt go as far as to say it doeasnt work with Ti 24g. Protection does kick in on the dry wick test. The main problem is if you keep firing after the Dry Coil message comes up. Even on a damp wick in a real world situation I imagine it will be fine if you stop firing in good time. I mean who is going to keep firing when there is a message on the screen and no vapour?? I am going to try to get some 28g Ti somehow and see what happens unless someone beats me to it!

 

[TheotherSteveS]

Bloody hell - it has a minimum output of 10 J....Really??? I mean I am vaping my subtank with Ti at 17J/300F. 10J must be enough to burn a dry wick if the coil isnt cooling fast between cycles! 10J????? Difficult to believe.. Any thoughts..

 

[tchavei]

I already said on another thread that I believe its the thickness that makes Ti hold the heat longer. Long enough for the next "hit" to have a cumulative effect. When you add to that that it seems the sx is more agressive at firing, that would explain why it happens with Ti but not with nickel. My 28g Titanium is around the corner BUT I have no sx to test it lol.

If anybody wants to send me a sx to try out titanium.... LOL

Btw...

Where is the best price for the sx in europe right now? I don't seem to find any store selling the mod under 179€?

Thanks
Tony

 

[TheotherSteveS]

Hi Tony,

I agree with your theory and I think the problem is made worse by the fact that it cant back off the 'power' below 10J if the specs in the manula re correct.That is still a lot of electricity flowing through the coil under dry conditions. the DNA40s go right down to 1 or 2W...

I got my sx for £159 plus a duiscount code but that place is out of stock and they have upped to base price to £169 now anyway. 179 Eur looks like a good deal to me!

Where did you get 28g Ti btw??

 

[IanDVaypes]

I don't seem to have that issue when changing batteries on my DNA40. Does it prompt you for the new coil? Or just auto changes the resistance?

I too like being able to manually set the base resistance. It is working especially well with the Kanger ni200 OCCs, just set the base and go. No cranking up the temp 20 minutes later, which I always had to do after refinement on the dna40.

Nope. It will automatically reset the base resistance relative to the temp on battery change. If I change the battery, that means I was vaping right before it cutoff and I want to vape immediately after the battery change.

 

[ThunderDan]

Nope. It will automatically reset the base resistance relative to the temp on battery change. If I change the battery, that means I was vaping right before it cutoff and I want to vape immediately after the battery change.

Odd, I've never had it do that, and I'll vape right up to the battery cutoff at times (mainly because my battery indicator doesn't work how I would like). Mine will keep the same resistance it seems like, maybe just a difference in mod materials, or board revisions. Mine is basically a large screen dna40 crammed into a hammond 1590g box with dual batteries.

edit

That's enough Off Topic though, heh, sorry all.

 

[tchavei]

Hi Tony,

I agree with your theory and I think the problem is made worse by the fact that it cant back off the 'power' below 10J if the specs in the manula re correct.That is still a lot of electricity flowing through the coil under dry conditions. the DNA40s go right down to 1 or 2W...

I got my sx for £159 plus a duiscount code but that place is out of stock and they have upped to base price to £169 now anyway. 179 Eur looks like a good deal to me!

Where did you get 28g Ti btw??

Zivipf in Germany now carries certified grade 1 and grade 2 titanium.

Regards
Tony

 

[OutdoorXplorer]

The way I am putting the battery cap on is to go a few reverse turns until you feel it drop into the threads. Then it aligns properly and turn in down. The last thing you want to do is to strip the threads as everyone is well aware of so just go easy and don't try and rush things. I have been tempted to either put a tiny drip of oil or even ejuice but I am worried that will make for a poor electrical contact and increase resistance in the power circuit. Anyone tried some lubricant or would you say this is a no no?

A thin layer of Noalox Anti-Oxidant Thread Lubricant helps a lot.