SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

[sUPERIORITE]

I was still on the fence about temp control having purchased a vapor shark last month and not being completely happy with the results. Always having to unscrew and then screw atomizers back on to try and set the Ohms was very frustrating. It turned into a $159.00 40w box mod. I liked the size but was very disappointed.
Now I go up to my local B&M and was looking at the box mods or just something new. They inform me that they just received in the SX Mini with the new temp control. I like the idea but told them that I was not very happy with my last month’s purchase from them of my vapor shark. We then started chatting about how more than just me are unhappy with the dna 40’s ability to work correctly all the time. It needed something more user friendly. We got to talking about the SX mini again and after about 45 minutes of discussion I walked out of the store with my new SX Mini.
When I got home I could not wait to give it a try. While the quickest thing I could do was grab one of my OCC Ni200 heads for my Sub-tank! I only had one left as to burning all the cotton out of my other 4 trying to get the vapor shark to work correctly the past month.
I pressed the fire button 5x to get into the menu and started setting the power to Joules mode and set my temp at 350 F just to start out with. Set my Joules power to 30. So I juiced it up slapped it all together and set my resistance with a simple press and hold of the up and down buttons…..
Resistance is now set and here we go!!!!!
Hands down amazing! Rock solid mod! After a week I am still blown away at how well it works compared to my VS. Derringer Ni200 same build on both of them one on my VS the other on my SX. Now I know trying to compare J to W is not the same however the concept from my simple mind is they are basically the same J measures time the W is just a power not measuring time. I know some people will correct me on this I am sure however I am a simple guy with a simple mind!
Setting both devices at 420 F and then setting my VS at 30w and the SX at 30J.
Way more vapor from the SX than from the VS. I have to turn up the VS to 40W and turn the temp up even higher to almost 500 to get close to the same flavor and vapor production out of it.
Now this rambling is just what I noticed with my simple mind and at home trials with the items I have and use on a daily basis.
I will say this I will be purchasing another SX Mini for my wife this week!
Thank you SX Mini for making me happy with temp control builds!

 

[JimScotty0]

28g hardened ni200 8 wraps 0.14ohms 440F 22J.
At times I still gets dry hits.. And when I purposely run the tank dry it continues to heat the coil, blackening the cotton til it becomes crisp. The coil also starts to glow slightly and there is no Dry Wick message..
Anyone knows why?

Your resistance is a little high for only 8 wraps of NI200. Could it be that the coil is not spaced between wraps? For NI200 coils to work properly the wraps can't contact each other.

 

[a tez]

I was still on the fence about temp control having purchased a vapor shark last month and not being completely happy with the results. Always having to unscrew and then screw atomizers back on to try and set the Ohms was very frustrating. It turned into a $159.00 40w box mod. I liked the size but was very disappointed.
Now I go up to my local B&M and was looking at the box mods or just something new. They inform me that they just received in the SX Mini with the new temp control. I like the idea but told them that I was not very happy with my last month’s purchase from them of my vapor shark. We then started chatting about how more than just me are unhappy with the DNA 40’s ability to work correctly all the time. It needed something more user friendly. We got to talking about the SX mini again and after about 45 minutes of discussion I walked out of the store with my new SX Mini.
When I got home I could not wait to give it a try. While the quickest thing I could do was grab one of my OCC Ni200 heads for my Sub-tank! I only had one left as to burning all the cotton out of my other 4 trying to get the vapor shark to work correctly the past month.
I pressed the fire button 5x to get into the menu and started setting the power to Joules mode and set my temp at 350 F just to start out with. Set my Joules power to 30. So I juiced it up slapped it all together and set my resistance with a simple press and hold of the up and down buttons…..
Resistance is now set and here we go!!!!!
Hands down amazing! Rock solid mod! After a week I am still blown away at how well it works compared to my VS. Derringer Ni200 same build on both of them one on my VS the other on my SX. Now I know trying to compare J to W is not the same however the concept from my simple mind is they are basically the same J measures time the W is just a power not measuring time. I know some people will correct me on this I am sure however I am a simple guy with a simple mind!
Setting both devices at 420 F and then setting my VS at 30w and the SX at 30J.
Way more vapor from the SX than from the VS. I have to turn up the VS to 40W and turn the temp up even higher to almost 500 to get close to the same flavor and vapor production out of it.
Now this rambling is just what I noticed with my simple mind and at home trials with the items I have and use on a daily basis.
I will say this I will be purchasing another SX Mini for my wife this week!
Thank you SX Mini for making me happy with temp control builds!

That's awesome that you are enjoying the SX Mini and that it is working properly for you.

I just want to say that your Vapor Shark is either defective or you possibly had the temp set too high for it to burn the cotton. I have a Hana Modz V4m and Vapor Flask 2.1 (both DNA40s like the VS) and I have never burned cotton or come close to it. I have used the ni200 OCC for the Subtank Mini on both as well (have it on the Hana right now). Every time you unscrew and screw the atomizer back in (especially after you just fired, wait till both the device and atomizer are room temp again), you are coming out of refinement (on the DNA 40).

I would recommend calling Vapor Shark and explaining to them what is happening. If it is not user error, they will service it for you since it is still under warranty.

 

[JimScotty0]

I absolutely agree with you there. I can't hear it unless I plug an empty 30ml ejuice bottle into my ear and put the device up against it while firing.

If it ever quits the humming will be when I'll be really really upset.

Vlad, if you did that while in an inverted position does the noise go away or get louder? lol

 

[Vlad1]

Vlad, if you did that while in an inverted position does the noise go away or get louder? lol

Stayed the same. But I can't stand on my head 1 handed for very long to test at length.

 

[JimScotty0]

Very kind of you but I have the new spring from SM in all my six bases. I just put a 4 coil wrap using .30 ni200 and getting 0.3ohms? Does that sound right? I seem to get a different reading every time. But I am learning. I am also using one of those head magnifyers so I get a good clean connection on my builds. So I do know that is not my problem.

Cheers mate

I use one of those head magnifiers myself and that helps greatly with my builds. As far as getting a .30 with only 4 wraps tells me your resistance is way too high and something must be wrong with the build or you are not locking in the resistance with the 2 buttons when the unit and atty have stabilized to room temperature. A 4 wrap of any normal diameter should yield a very low resistance somewhere in the neighborhood of .06 or so which is very low.

 

[JimScotty0]

Well my S class shows low battery at 21000J so sounds like same as the M. I think I heard 22000 from someone. Just a comparison. That is on a 2500MaH LG HE2

I get about 21.5k on my fairly new LG HE2.

 

[JimScotty0]

A few days back we had a discussion on the difficulty and some concerns with the battery cap threads on the SX. There were a few suggestions and after a little bit of research I bought Ox-Gard Anti-oxidant compound from Amazon Gardner Bender OX-100B Ox-Gard Anti-Oxidant Compound - Fluorescent Tubes - Amazon.com for $3.27. Tonight I put on a drop on the cap threads and it did seem to allow the cap to screw on a bit more freely. The compound is blackish in color and applied easy enough. I will let that run for a couple of days to see how that goes but so far all is good.

 

[Braddahbill]

Sorry nothing to see here....lol

 

[chia]

Your resistance is a little high for only 8 wraps of NI200. Could it be that the coil is not spaced between wraps? For NI200 coils to work properly the wraps can't contact each other.

Hey
Could be could be... I was trying out thicker wires and a bigger id .. So there is a real possibility of contact on the wires or even the posts...
Did a rebuild with thinner wires and smaller id and all works well now..

 

[xdarktime]

I have had my M-Class for about a week now, so I felt compelled to post my experience. I absolutely love this mod! The TC, while not all the kinks are worked out, is lightyears ahead of the DNA40 in my Hana V4d. The set and forget resistance is brilliant, no more jumping resistance resulting in burnt hits. The screen is fantastic and the menu system is quick and intuative. I didn't think that I would like the gesture control, but that works well and you get the hang of it fast.

The build quality is fantastic. Solid, weighty and a pleasure to hold. There are a couple areas of minor fit issues around the C-frame, but nothing major as others have pointed out. Everything else is stellar.

The only negative has been battery life. I am using VTC4s since they meet the chips amperage requirements. They will last me about a half a day of heavy vaping. But this is a minor complaint.

All said and done, I wouldn't mine having 2 of these and getting rid of my other mods. Just a fantastic little device. I'm interested in my Busardo reports, but it won't change my opinion that this is a winner!

Here it is sitting with my UD Goblin on top. Great looker!

View attachment 427806

what sort of kinks have you noticed with the M class? It seems your not too concerned, but I was just wondering.

 

[dr g]

Hopefully the math is figured out on this or YiHi can release some type of calculator so we know. They do recommend not using anything under 25amps, so maybe that is the limit.

You can figure out the math yourself actually ... If I'm not mistaken the 25A figure is from bypass mode which goes to 80 watts, exactly 25A from 3.2v minimum, disregarding efficiency.

Taking into account efficiency, the 60w in non-bypass mode gives a bit over 20A from 3.2v minimum.

 

[Jake67]

Is it normal for the resistance to go up in joules mode quickly? I built a 0.15 coil went went through about 8 mls of juice and then changed the tank. When I put it on this morning and hit the up/down button the resistance registered 0.29. I vape high VG juice. Just curious if this normal with nickel wire.
Thanks


Sent from my iPhone

 

[tchavei]

Is it normal for the resistance to go up in joules mode quickly? I built a 0.15 coil went went through about 8 mls of juice and then changed the tank. When I put it on this morning and hit the up/down button the resistance registered 0.29. I vape high VG juice. Just curious if this normal with nickel wire.
Thanks


Sent from my iPhone

If it was at ambient temperature, no. Not normal. Check deck screws and 510 connection. Wipe it down.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[Jake67]

If it was at ambient temperature, no. Not normal. Check deck screws and 510 connection. Wipe it down.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

Yes it was at ambient temp. I'll check it out. Thank you.


Sent from my iPhone

 

[jbok]

I got my SX yesterday and after reading this thread I'm a little more courses about TC. I really don't have time to real all 100+ pages to catch up so for starters, what gauge of wire do you all recommend?

 

[coustain]

I got my SX yesterday and after reading this thread I'm a little more courses about TC. I really don't have time to real all 100+ pages to catch up so for starters, what gauge of wire do you all recommend?

From what I've seen it depends on your setup. Single coil you could do 28 or so, dual you want to do 30 gauge. This is unless you want your coils a foot wide lol


Sent from my iPhablet using Tapatalk

 

[Braddahbill]

Is it normal for the resistance to go up in joules mode quickly? I built a 0.15 coil went went through about 8 mls of juice and then changed the tank. When I put it on this morning and hit the up/down button the resistance registered 0.29. I vape high VG juice. Just curious if this normal with nickel wire.
Thanks


Sent from my iPhone

If the tank and mod is both at room temperature it should not. I have built coils that may change by .01 maybe .02 from the night to the next morning on my Lemo 2. Maybe you should check your connections, or try cleaning your 510.




Sent from a round red thing with a bite taken out of it.

 

[derogg]

From what I've seen it depends on your setup. Single coil you could do 28 or so, dual you want to do 30 gauge. This is unless you want your coils a foot wide lol


Sent from my iPhablet using Tapatalk

I use 30 gauge no problem. About 0.07 - 0.12 ohms on my coils

 

[TheotherSteveS]

Got a response from Yihi 7 hours ago but was out and about with the wife....helping some still having issues due to the OKC Bombing of 1995.... but here is the jest of their reply re the noise/buzz....

They say the hum is normal and not to worry

and in Joule's mode , the chip is controlling the temp constantly, there is a slight hum the way it is working, and they say it is normal.

Response by Cari from Yihi....

oh well...I am going deaf for sure!