My C-frame is holding up well. However the painted grey housing is rubbing off. Definitely a con on this as it should be much more durable than it is.
SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)
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My C-frame is holding up well. However the painted grey housing is rubbing off. Definitely a con on this as it should be much more durable than it is.
Perhaps try a different tank -- like the smok GCT, which technonut said was working great for him. Still, Yihi recommends 0.065 (optimal) - 0.10 for most accurate and best results. You wouldn't think of buying a new Ferrari and putting 85-octane in it. Maybe adjusting the speedo to make you think you were getting better performance.
Fooling the device is just silly. The algorithms are then way off and the margin of error even more amplified. you may as well be using a Kanthal build/coil and power mode.
I am sorry that your disability prevents you from enjoying this device to its fullest. Perhaps someone can help you build a proper coil for the RBA base. I have one in mine for close to 4 weeks now and still working great. For everyone else, i still don't get the pages and pages of complaints that the device isn't "perfect" when you are building @ 0.15, 0.20, 0.30.... it's just as easy to build @ 0.065 as it is 0.15.And you will notice the difference immediately. I'm all for living on the edge, but i'm not going to complain when i get pulled over for driving 85 in a 55.
thanks danny. I can get someone to build but they are not going to do it constantly. is the rba on the st as good as say a kayfun? I have other rba/rda but this looks easier. how many wraps and diameter to .065?
perhaps the black wears better and the m seems improved at that. my s got so bad I removed the paint. it was grey. no scratches at all on my m. at this point the s was already pretty shoddy. I would still really like a case. I imagine if you have a shoe maker nearby they could make a leather case. just offer them a good salary to convince them to do so. I know a production case might be $20 but custom I am guessing $80 is fair. if that seems steep then we have to wait. rather not encounter scratches waiting for it. plus leather is nicer than silicon even though I am a (lousy) vegan.
perhaps the black wears better and the m seems improved at that. my s got so bad I removed the paint. it was grey. no scratches at all on my m. at this point the s was already pretty shoddy. I would still really like a case. I imagine if you have a shoe maker nearby they could make a leather case. just offer them a good salary to convince them to do so. I know a production case might be $20 but custom I am guessing $80 is fair. if that seems steep then we have to wait. rather not encounter scratches waiting for it. plus leather is nicer than silicon even though I am a (lousy) vegan.
Hahaha. I'd be a vegan too if it wasn't for bacon! LOL.
The black is definitely better on this then the S class -- which was a rough textured finish.
I never tried a nickel build on my kayfun v4. started leaking and o-rings made it too difficult to turn/open. Gave it away. But, i am getting perfect results with both the STM and Lemo2. I did 28g, 4-1/2 wraps and CW-30 Koiler (3mm).
I hear mid-may on the "official" silicone sleeve.... but in Yihi's calendar, that means mid-July.
im a little hesitant with the jwraps because ive read stories of them ripping off the coating when taking them off. i like the ergonomics of the sx the way it is so i dont even think ill want a silicon sleeve.
I am also starting to see a bit of wear in the finish on the colored part of the body housing around the battery tube. The silver frame where the buttons are mounted still looks great.
While I would enjoy this thing looking new forever, I have to expect some wear and tear. It's still vaping like a champ. I wonder if the black / rose / silver colored body finishes are going to hold up better than the grey?
While I would enjoy this thing looking new forever, I have to expect some wear and tear. It's still vaping like a champ. I wonder if the black / rose / silver colored body finishes are going to hold up better than the grey?
24 hours in and that first build is still performing perfectly. That's a big thing to me, because with the DNA I sometimes had a great working build all day long, set the device down when I went to sleep, and wake up to a totally non-performing setup. Which made it very hard to debug. I vaped through 4 tanks now, and the flavor is very clean and consistent - so good that I don't want to tear it down for further experiments yet.
BTW: I use the little tool that comes with the eGrip for removing the battery cover - but I realize that buying an eGrip just for this purpose might be a bit overkill.
BTW: I use the little tool that comes with the eGrip for removing the battery cover - but I realize that buying an eGrip just for this purpose might be a bit overkill.
I really feel your pain. As I have said before I rthink, this is not a normal functioning of this device. The coils or some other spect of your setup is/are faulty. The mod seems to have no idea what the effective resistance of your coil. Not the actual resistance of the wire etc, but the resistance the mod is actually seeing, warts and all! I asked before but have you tried a new coil. I have a box of these things and have so far found one that worked moderately well. I really think if you persist with this setup you will break the mod or worse...
Sat 11:05pm:
Monday 10:54pm:
The sx system in temp mode is inherently stable, it does not need tuning. Perhaps you should find another "someone who is very knowledgeable in TC."
Vlad1, if you could post your scope shot/s, or a link to them would be fine, that would be appreciated. It is quite possible that the slower ramp-up in temp mode is by design, after all, most peeps seem very happy with the vape quality. Also, that your shots seem to match Busardo's, and that the different modes soft/powerful are still there in proportion but lower key, indicates that maybe it is by design?
Monday 10:54pm:
The sx system in temp mode is inherently stable, it does not need tuning. Perhaps you should find another "someone who is very knowledgeable in TC."
Vlad1, if you could post your scope shot/s, or a link to them would be fine, that would be appreciated. It is quite possible that the slower ramp-up in temp mode is by design, after all, most peeps seem very happy with the vape quality. Also, that your shots seem to match Busardo's, and that the different modes soft/powerful are still there in proportion but lower key, indicates that maybe it is by design?
I owned an rDNA 40 and also owned a Lemo. I did have the best results out of any atty on the Lemo but I got tired of the Lemo. Too bulky for my taste and lacking in flavor. Maybe the drop would have been better I don't know.
Everyone is talking to me as if I've never done nickel builds and I'm new to this whole thing but I've done 30-50 nickel builds and still can't seem to get it right. My builds always look perfect but the temp sensing is never where it should be (hits too soon at the temp cotton chars, etc).
I've tried single coil builds in various attys now (authentic Origen, Lemo, authentic Tugboat, did a dual coil in a Magma clone I had for a short period of time) and I'm still just not satisfied with the results. Either I'm really picky, I've had bad luck with the devices I've gotten, or I'm doing something wrong. I also find the builds in doing that other people have done vary quite a bit in resistance from the other people's who have done the same builds.
I'm going to try the water test today in my single coil Origen and see if I can figure out what the issue is. I'm kind of thinking the build I have in there is fine but I just don't like single coil builds or something. May try another dual coil build in the Tugboat too.
The reason I asked is because someone reported that their Flask had a bad contact, so only one battery was working, which obviously would explain why yours doesn't last much longer. My dual battery DNA40 last way way longer than my single battery DNA40, so it surprised me when you said yours doesn't. I don't have an SX yet, so I don't have a clue as to how the two boards compare in battery life.
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Hi have you tried different Ni200 wires to see how they defer? Now there are 'hardened Ni200', rather similar to kanthal. There used to be very limited choice of Ni200, like I think 30g.. Now got loads more.,
Personally I have more luck with 27g Ni200 than 30g..
"C-Frame"- good term .... did you coin that one?
I agree it would be nice if the (lets call it "Base") paint lasted more than a few weeks, but thinking back, the only finishes that have lasted me more than a few months and still looked fresh is/was the media blasted finish on the provari. Everything else ended up scratched and looking like hell after a couple of months and either ended up re-skinned, or refinished as brushed stainless.
My expectations on exterior finish aren't what they used to be. I'd rather them keep the price down and work with the guys making skins so we could have a can customize however we want- get tired of the skin and you just buy a new one for $10-$15.
...Me a chain vapor.. Day time outside for work I usually have 2 mods, 1 vv and 1 mech for rotation.. Evening a few more
The mini s and dna40(single batt) is similar for me in batt life.. About 1 1/2 day worth of vaping time, sometime stretching to 2 days if I m too busy to chain vape
The mini m is slightly less.. Just a day of chain vaping and 1/2 day more if busy with work.
Again both are with rotation with another mech..
As for the VF, can't really compare as due to the size I only use it at home during nite.. But a charge it like what, once a week?
I had no problem with the Tugboat- in fact it was the first one I built with Nickel... I'm not finding it any harder than kanthal to build, just one extra step to space the wraps, and a bit more care in tightening down the screws.... And despite suggestions from others, I'm using the holes on the posts, not the screw heads....
Not sure if anyone suggested yet, but perhaps there's nothing wrong with what you're doing and something with the wire you have......... do the water test, clean your wire and post some pics.
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