SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)
- Thread starter whitewidows
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I am still on the fence about buying this Mod. The sleeves being off will drive me nuts, thread cap for battery and now I hear logos and paint wearing off? Is there a sleeve for this thing yet? Also is it just me or does the incorrect grammar on one of the menus drive anybody nuts? I am referring to the Power&&Joules. Why have the "&" twice?
I use several atty's ( temp mode):
Aspire Nautilus Mini w/ factory made nickel coils
Kanger SubTank Nano w/ factory made nickel coils
Aspire Atlantis w/ factory made nickel coils
Cartomizer Tanks w/Boge Cartomizers - nickel coils (0.27 ohm) (just released Exclusive at Protovapor)
All work just fine for me.... on a scale of 1 to 10 (10 being the best) I rate the Aspire Atlantis and the respective coils the highest.
hi guys.. just a heads up.. if this happens just take out the battery to reset the device..
had a K4 and GT2 both set at about 0.07ohms, set to 420F. GT2; vapes fine for about half hour, the got the 'Dry Coil' error.. open up coil and wick is fine and wet.. the K4 is the same problem.. both works fine when I change to a Dna40 device..
anyway long story short, just take out the batt put it back it should work normal again.. happened to me just now, now vaping ok... any change to the 'problem' will post here again..
cheers
had a K4 and GT2 both set at about 0.07ohms, set to 420F. GT2; vapes fine for about half hour, the got the 'Dry Coil' error.. open up coil and wick is fine and wet.. the K4 is the same problem.. both works fine when I change to a Dna40 device..
anyway long story short, just take out the batt put it back it should work normal again.. happened to me just now, now vaping ok... any change to the 'problem' will post here again..
cheers
I've never had an issue with the threading. Either they've improved it or some people just aren't good at screwing things down. Haven't had any paint chipping although I've only had mine for 2 or 3 weeks. And I just noticed the && in the menu so I guess I just haven't paid enough attention haha. It's a great mod though.
I have tried my friends SX Mini and it does feel sturdy and good in the hand. The && just kills me haha I just hate the grammar on the board. I really wanna see a sleeve like the IPV Mini 2 has, come out for the mod. I think knowing I can keep it fresh will ease the pain and perhaps I can write a email to Yihi and tell them I want a grammar firmware update on my board haha
I'm big on grammar too which is why I'm surprised I never noticed. But if you think that's bad then take a look at the user manual. I work with software daily in my job that's riddled with similar grammatical errors so maybe I've just gotten used to it lol. Chinese developers…
I bet haha The chinese call it a Upgrate not a Upgrade so I guess at some point Yihi will "Upgrate" the boards. At least they spelled Joules right and didn't call it Julies
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Wow, I've had the m-class for a week and just now noticed the &&. I'm in shock; I've done a fair share of editing in my time. I guess I just haven't switched to power mode that often. Still, can't believe I missed that...
I think I'd be quite amused if it displayed joules incorrectly. I can see myself bothering my wife and using a cheesy British accent: "Try this one! It is amazing at 32 Julie's!"
Thanks for posting this I tried your method on a 0.088 Ω setting the temp at 520º 14J it was topping out at 419º, so I reset my settings to 420º 18J and am very satisfied with the vape with 70VG/30PG liquid. This is the way I set up my temp from now on.
I also wanted to share with you the point you made about the ambient temperature before you set your baseline resistance you made and how important it is. Last night I was vaping on my Sub Tank Mini with the RBA and wanted to build a new coil while watching TV. I built a 5 wrap - 28awg - NI200 - 3mm ID which should have come out to around 0.077 Ω. Remember now, I said I was just vaping on the tank to finish up the juice and I also pulsed the coil to burn off any impurities, so I waited about 10 minutes thinking that would be enough time to cool down and got a set resistance of 0.099 Ω. Looking at the screen I told myself I knew I built the coil correctly so I wanted to see IF the numbers would drop down and how long it would take. I did this test while watching TV and taking a reading every few minutes and was surprised that it took this long.
So yes, taking the time to set your baseline resistance is of upmost importance. If your baseline is off everything else will be too.
Onedesign1 has stated they will be able to get "YiHi tells me they can open up those 4 solder points to use with the switches" I would be surprised if they did anything more than that personally.
The YiHi SX350 35W Chip at Varitube | Page 104 | E-Cigarette Forum"
I'm not sure I'm OCD or not but I am fairly picky. Usually after buying a new vehicle I try to hand wash and wax it just so I can find any blemishes that I may have not detected prior to purchase. But on the SXmini M I received I thought I had thoroughly looked it over and did not notice the slightly off sleeve. In my case it's about .1mm - .2mm out so it really is very minimal and I did not notice it until about two days after I had it when it was posted in the thread.
On the thread cap although I would prefer a different design I've had no problems opening / closing it with just my thumb. I do take a Q-tip and clean the threads once a week but not had any problems.
Paint IMO is a weak spot. I have marring from holding it with my ring & middle fingers. Kind of disappointing but it still functions fantastic for me. I think this will be a very popular device this year so I do expect to see silicon sleeves either from Yihi or at least an after market manufacturer.
On the reported Logo coming off I think Nic was making a joke.
The grammar doesn't bother me at all. But I've only changed between Joule's / Power maybe 3-4 times in the last 3-4 weeks. If it were to the point I couldn't determine what I was doing with the device that would be a different story though. Good thing is they will release updates which may or may not fix it.
It's not perfect but IMO it's the king of the hill at the moment. There are other high end devices out there that flaws could be found in just the same. If you have some devices in mind just Google the reviews for said devices and compare. You'll find most all have some cons just some worse than others. Some have functional issues, mechanical issues etc..
I so far have had a Hana, Vaporshark, and Vapor Flask, H Cigar, and IPV4 and have found many faults with all of them sadly.
These SX's are crazy. I never had a coil work, well the best I ever got on my DNA was 24hrs. With this I have one that it a week old and the other is about 5 days still going strong. Trying to hold out till my 26awg wire gets here. It blows my mind that nickel works this well and tastes this good. I had decided that nickel was not a viable wire to use and now I like it better then kanthal
Yea "Perfection is in the eye of the beholder" What one see's as flaws another see's as features.
I think the best we can do is to pick the devices that have the most "Features" that each individual prefers.If you back out the torque screw on the top and bottom you can set the sleave over and tighten them.
My black one was never misaligned, the gray one was by maybe a mm or 2,not bad but enough to bug me, 3 seconds with a torque driver and done.
Like Vlad said almost every device has some sort of minor flaw at minimum, some major. Even my elitist provari had an issue. Out of every device I've ever used or owned, the build quality on this has provape written all over it, and the power and functionality is the most advanced you'll find.
And that's despite the nut adjustment.
My black one was never misaligned, the gray one was by maybe a mm or 2,not bad but enough to bug me, 3 seconds with a torque driver and done.
Like Vlad said almost every device has some sort of minor flaw at minimum, some major. Even my elitist provari had an issue. Out of every device I've ever used or owned, the build quality on this has provape written all over it, and the power and functionality is the most advanced you'll find.
And that's despite the nut adjustment.
IMO if Provape would build a device around this chip they would really have a winner and so would we. As far as build quality and service Provape again IMO can't be beat but they are falling behind. Right now according to my friend that works there they are more concerned with the idiotic legislation they are trying to jam through in this state. I know that they like to come up with their own stuff but they are falling behind and I know they could make a great device based on this chip.
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