SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)
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Would depend if you wanted or needed to get into the higher power ranges or not. Parallel will only allow you to go up to 60w, Series will take it up to 150w.
Yihi posted on their Facebook page a long time ago the update with single battery the power output would not change, only with dual batteries. You will have additional run time with more batteries at the same power settings.
Going to need to make some sacrifices to get extended battery life, rarely even vape over 60w since its not my cup of tea. Thanks though
Yea me either, I'm usually down in the mid 20's range. I get a day on a battery using about 5-7ml of juice but I always have 3 - 4 charged. So if I'm going to be out of pocket I'll take a extra battery with me. Don't care for the battle axe look personally.
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Believe so, I think Tchavei posted a couple options further back in the thread for folks that only have access to apple pc's.
Virtual box or similar to emulate a different os.
Another alternative (using Linux) would be using wine to emulate just the libs and provide a direct link to the USB port.
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
Vlad,
Well mine finally updated (I was going to take the battery out but didn't). Don't ask me what I did. Windows kept saying device not recognized... etc. I final just hit update (I think) and it started updating and finished successfully (I think). Anyway it is working and says the correct version on boot-up.
The whole process seemed like a crapshoot and now I have a new firmware version with more wacky menu items than I did before. Don't know what eco mode is, don't know why powerful+ comes before powerful.. blah, blah, blah.
And everything seems to work the same as it did before. Sure glad they fixed everything.
GeorgeVlad,
Well mine finally updated (I was going to take the battery out but didn't). Don't ask me what I did. Windows kept saying device not recognized... etc. I final just hit update (I think) and it started updating and finished successfully (I think). Anyway it is working and says the correct version on boot-up.
The whole process seemed like a crapshoot and now I have a new firmware version with more wacky menu items than I did before. Don't know what eco mode is, don't know why powerful+ comes before powerful.. blah, blah, blah.
And everything seems to work the same as it did before. Sure glad they fixed everything.
I'm trying to decide if I should bother to upgrade the M class or not. I'm not really unhappy with anything about how the device functions now. Is there anything you feel that's significantly better after the upgrade?
Duane
Tony, I use VirtualBox everyday on my Apple PC's. Works like a charm and free too!
I wouldn't worry. My ohm reader is not so accurate with low values and is always quite a bit off. The SXM is designed to read low ohm values so I would trust more the reading you are getting on the SXM than on an inexpensive ohm reader.
Vlad,
Well mine finally updated (I was going to take the battery out but didn't). Don't ask me what I did. Windows kept saying device not recognized... etc. I final just hit update (I think) and it started updating and finished successfully (I think). Anyway it is working and says the correct version on boot-up.
The whole process seemed like a crapshoot and now I have a new firmware version with more wacky menu items than I did before. Don't know what eco mode is, don't know why powerful+ comes before powerful.. blah, blah, blah.
And everything seems to work the same as it did before. Sure glad they fixed everything.
Yea using the Link function like I said previously I've had quirky problems, but once connected it's always worked with Link. But when I've removed the battery and connected that way I've never had a problem connecting or updating first attempt.
The Eco mode appears to be exactly the same as standard at least in my tests at 10j so far, with the 150w update. I think it is only limiting the device to 40j to be more similar to other devices in battery consumption.
Edit: Eco mode also appears to turn off the display in about 5 sec. where in the other modes it's 1 minute after firing.
I've only used the 150w update so far but the powerful & powerful+ may be backwards. Powerful was a bit higher output .08V than Powerful+ in my initial test in TL mode. A fairly small amount and could be attributed to my test gear or my placement of the cursor. At any rate I'm still not seeing a bump in the initial power in either Powerful or Powerful+ mode in TL mode. Not done any tests in power mode.
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What I meant was, even putting the wrap on a good finish, if you decide to remove it at some point will the (good finish) peel off with the wrap?
I've noticed (no scientific testing but by my eye only), at least on my unit/build, The temperature is hovering much closer to the set point now with v2.1. Before, as reported and tested on multiple FLIR's it was off 10%. ie., setting at 400 you'd see readings up to 440. Now I see it staying much closer to the 400 set point. Also appears to be much more forgiving using a Kanger NI200 occ and that magic 0.065 "might" be less important than before. Perhaps others can test and confirm?
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Also, regarding that eBay $150 listing... See he sold out (50 units). Not sure if anyone on here pre-ordered from them, but I heard his units are coming from a company called Brosvapor. They are a Chinese distributor and their website has multiple inconsistencies -- including showing pictures of the S class as the M. So, as i only heard through "hearsay", if you did purchase I would make sure its NOT coming from them. You'll either get a clone, one that fell off a truck, or at the very best, one that has no warranty (which will be the case no matter where they get them from).
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Well I got both of mine updated. Was a little tricky with the first one but I got the hang of it by the second. Had to reset all my memories and settings but other then that seems to be ok.
I did find out that if you switch to eco mode you have to set all your menus again.
I turned my sensor off and it stopped and also stopped on the main menu. So I turned it back on and it still doesn't work on the main menu have you noticed this.
Well upgrade done to the 150W version of which I would probably never need, but why not if they both have the same features? Or maybe they don't have the same features? The rumor was that they may have different features on each version but maybe not. I had to take the battery out myself to get the unit to come back so Vlad's method of upgrading without the battery might be a good idea. I wouldn't want to lose power or lose your USB connection while in the upgrade process or else you might have another brick for your garden. lol
Anyway, anybody figure out how the Eco mode works? So far I have found no documentation on the Eco mode and their manual has not yet changed to reflect the Eco mode.
I noticed that the gravity sensor doesn't any longer work when adjusting your preset Joules memory settings even though I have it set in the "Sensor On" setting. I know it worked before because I would use it all the time. No biggie but different. Your memory settings will vanish and need to be reset BTW.
One thing I can tell you is that the "Dry Coil No Liquid" message is working quite well. I spent the morning making 8 26ga NI200 twisted with 30ga Kanthal A1 coils, 3mm, 6/7 wraps, so I had to burn off some ejuice on my Lemo 2 which was almost empty. It will be rebuilding time this morning on the Lemo 2. After doing the firmware update I decided to do the dry hit test since I had nothing to lose. It took me a few dozen puffs with juice probably getting into the molecule count but the "Dry Coil No Liquid" message finally showed up. Not one dry hit but the flavor and vapor production went down to practically nothing. Looking at the wick I can see that there has not even been any scorching.
This technology does work quite well.
Anyway, anybody figure out how the Eco mode works? So far I have found no documentation on the Eco mode and their manual has not yet changed to reflect the Eco mode.
I noticed that the gravity sensor doesn't any longer work when adjusting your preset Joules memory settings even though I have it set in the "Sensor On" setting. I know it worked before because I would use it all the time. No biggie but different. Your memory settings will vanish and need to be reset BTW.
One thing I can tell you is that the "Dry Coil No Liquid" message is working quite well. I spent the morning making 8 26ga NI200 twisted with 30ga Kanthal A1 coils, 3mm, 6/7 wraps, so I had to burn off some ejuice on my Lemo 2 which was almost empty. It will be rebuilding time this morning on the Lemo 2. After doing the firmware update I decided to do the dry hit test since I had nothing to lose. It took me a few dozen puffs with juice probably getting into the molecule count but the "Dry Coil No Liquid" message finally showed up. Not one dry hit but the flavor and vapor production went down to practically nothing. Looking at the wick I can see that there has not even been any scorching.
This technology does work quite well.
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