I don't know how you would get 35kJ unless you were using the USB port to charge the battery.
SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)
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I don't know how you would get 35kJ unless you were using the USB port to charge the battery.
only used the usb to upgrade. On v1.4 with a .08 ohm build that's what I was getting. Sorry if you don't believe it…
Not saying it didn't happen, just don't know how you would get 35k out of the HE4. One thing is that you were in Soft Mode according to the photo. That lowers the power for the first two seconds. It's not a mode I regularly use, but I don't see that being enough to make the difference.
Right. And now (v2.2) soft mode "feels" like standard and powerful and powerful +. And the battery life in soft mode is about 70% of what it was. I'm not concerned with battery life so much as the modes not acting the way they did before the upgrade, I have charged batteries ready all the time.
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"Filed opened: SX350J_120W_20150530-V2.2. This file unsupport SXmini-M-V1, but support SX350J-V1"
The above is the error msg I get every time I tried to upgrade, and it blocks the upgrade button. Anyone knows what seems to be the problem? I did install the driver after installing the software.
Some friend is saying to press the fire button many times after selecting "link - on" to exit to the menu so that M class will not freeze up. I have tried many times till I give up on upgrading, m still on stock V1.4.
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The above is the error msg I get every time I tried to upgrade, and it blocks the upgrade button. Anyone knows what seems to be the problem? I did install the driver after installing the software.
Some friend is saying to press the fire button many times after selecting "link - on" to exit to the menu so that M class will not freeze up. I have tried many times till I give up on upgrading, m still on stock V1.4.
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Jazz is right, you have the file for upgrading the chip. You want to get SXmini files from the links at the bottom of this page, specifically for this update, http://www.yihisxmini.com/download/SXmini-M-Class-120W_20150530-V2.2.rar
And does it bother anybody else that YiHi uses the MS Internet Explorer icon for their page? Yuck.
May I ask what's the file that I downloaded for? Isn't what we wanna do here is to upgrade the chip? But thanks anyway shall try again tomorrow.
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There's one set of firmware upgrades for the SX Mini and another for the SX350J stand-alone chip. I'm not sure if there are any differences between them other than the bootup screen.
Sony manufacturing codes.
digit 1: year. Q=2008, R=2009, S=2010 and so on
digit 2: month. A=Jan, B=Feb, ...J= Oct
digit 3+4: day
digit 5: electrode history
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Norbert/Ecolux got in touch with me 2 or 3 weeks ago and said he had someI bought some straight away! Although I have to say been doing some battery tests and the Samsung 30Qs and LG HG4s have been giving me longer vape times on DNA40/SX350J boards than the VTC5s.
I would expect a 3000mAh battery to last longer than a 2600mAh battery, although I'm not sure I would want to use a 15A battery in a mod that can easily exceed a 24A drain with a .1ohm coil. But you should be fine as long as you don't go lower than .3ohms on your kanthal coils, or stay well below 60W if you do.
As per their faq, those two are different at least they show different logo on boot time. As in the firmware itself, I do believe that they are identical, just have different memory map due to the different boot logo image size CMIIW
On the recent test I saw putting the HG2 (rated 20A) and 30Q (rated 15A), the 30Q actually performed better at 20A compared to the HG2.
Just throwing that out there for what it's worth.
I ordered 4 HG2 to try myself, and got in on a GB through Squonkers Paradise to get 6 30Q for $5.20 a pop...not bad.
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but it wouldnt make any difference anyway right? The Joules is how much the batt has given out, ore or less regardless of how you do it. If you vape at lower joules, it will take longer in time to get to say 20KJ but it will stillget there...A pint of beer is still a pint whether you sip it or chug it in one...or am I wrong??
Did the test include thermal readings from the batteries as the test was being done? The batteries may have "performed better" as far as electrical drain during the test goes, but they may have also run much hotter which would shorten their lifespan as well.
And a 20A test doesn't mean either battery is safe at nearly 25A.
Steve,
I am not sure your analogy is correct. After all the battery efficiency is higher at lower current draw and therefor should provide more power to the load. I think you could get into I^2 * R losses when running at higher current draws. Poor analogy driving your car at 100 mph vs 55 mph.
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