SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

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Brian Fleming

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Jul 7, 2015
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I think you better check @Bikenstein SX Mini... he customized his by leaving it at home.

33lfuhy.jpg
I kept mine in the house as well.....didnt do much good. It looked almost as bad as it does now. I cant tell you how liberating it feels though to be able to use it whenever and wherever I want to. I just convinced myself that it has that special, one of a kind look, and vaped on with a smile. :)
aaa.jpg


Btw, I just received my 7 dollar silicone sleeve in the mail. Now I can make my 200 dollar mod look like a colorful plastic toy. :blink:Thats what I call irony!
 

mr.fabe

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I kept mine in the house as well.....didnt do much good. It looked almost as bad as it does now. I cant tell you how liberating it feels though to be able to use it whenever and wherever I want to. I just convinced myself that it has that special, one of a kind look, and vaped on with a smile. :)View attachment 470018

Btw, I just received my 7 dollar silicone sleeve in the mail. Now I can make my 200 dollar mod look like a colorful plastic toy. :blink:Thats what I call irony!

At least the pressure is off you.
No need to keep it safe and away from keys, change, etc.

I've seen that design before...
 
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Brian Fleming

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Jul 7, 2015
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Okla
Both my Billow 2s are built with 26g Ti on 2.5mm with 5 spaced wraps. They both ohm at .13 and prevent me from even picking up my other atties.
I have 2 of them myself. Been running nickel on them for weeks with rock solid results. I have so many tanks that I pretty much lost count. The billow 2's are the only ones I use now because the stabilty rocks.
 
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Brian Fleming

Full Member
Jul 7, 2015
18
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Okla
At least the pressure is off you.
No need to keep it safe and away from keys, change, etc.

I've seen that design before...
I thought about sending it back for replacement but about had a panic attack at the thought of having to live without it while shipping back and forth......guess I will just have to get another one!
 
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TheotherSteveS

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I think the static resistance of the atomizer is more important to the optimization of temperature accuracy than the apparent resistance of the coil. I'm just about ready to measure static resistance of my favorite atomizers to see what differences that makes as soon as some silver wire arrives to short the posts.

There's quite a bit of discussion about static resistance and the potential consequences at TheBloke's thread
TC beyond Ni200: Nickel Purity, Dicodes; Ti, SS, Resistherm NiFe30; Coefficient of Resistance | E-Cigarette Forum

Duane

Yup static R is a bigger deal than generally appreciated!

Im all over Tom's 'Beyond Ni200:..' thread but others might not know about it!!
 
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Jake67

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Definitely not encouraging words. Was the first one covered by the warranty for you?
The first one was covered. No complaints about that
I have the SX MINI S for 9 months and it's in perfect condition.
I think it's the metal being used to make the painted cover.



Sent from my iPhone
 

Hitcat44

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The first one was covered. No complaints about that
I have the SX MINI S for 9 months and it's in perfect condition.
I think it's the metal being used to make the painted cover.

Agree that it is more than likely not the Paint itself but more likely the Surface underneath and the Preparation thereof.
Would put a nice chunk of change it's the Prep and the Process that is/was inferior and problematic that lead to a non-adhesion and subsequent flaking and separation of the Paint. Of course the ease with which it can be scratched and marred is an issue with the Paint/Coating Material used.
Prep it properly and use a Coating Material suited to both Material and Prep Process and it rarely fails or has issues.
PVD would be the best Process and Coating. But, some still find it Cost prohibitive from the Manufacturers' Viewpoint.

No issues with mine but haven't had it long (was produced June 9th). Bought a mighty Skin to wrap it with just in case. Scoping out what Jwrap has to offer for a more pleasing and permanent Preventative measure. But as another said, it does seem to be extremely ironic to put a $7-$14 Skin on a $200 Device to make it "right".

Overall, I suppose if that's all I can find to Beech about; it's still All Good and I'll take it and move on.
 

jstrong

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I received my SXM with 2.2 firmware (2 different units) and I know they were "fresh units". I know that some B&M's have the older stock models with 1.4 firmware that had paint issues. Yihi made the paint changes midstream during the v1.4 firmware. The v2.2 firmware check is easy and definitive, whereas, the v1.4 may have paint issues depending on when it was manufactured. If the paint hasn't come off within a week or two, you should be fine.

Curious to know.. how do you know you have the new paint? Is it the 510 connector changes?
I'm not 100% sure mine is new one now after all the talk....I got mine at Elev8vape and they assured me it is the newest batch
 

druckle

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Agree that it is more than likely not the Paint itself but more likely the Surface underneath and the Preparation thereof.
Would put a nice chunk of change it's the Prep and the Process that is/was inferior and problematic that lead to a non-adhesion and subsequent flaking and separation of the Paint. Of course the ease with which it can be scratched and marred is an issue with the Paint/Coating Material used.
Prep it properly and use a Coating Material suited to both Material and Prep Process and it rarely fails or has issues.
PVD would be the best Process and Coating. But, some still find it Cost prohibitive from the Manufacturers' Viewpoint.

No issues with mine but haven't had it long (was produced June 9th). Bought a mighty Skin to wrap it with just in case. Scoping out what Jwrap has to offer for a more pleasing and permanent Preventative measure. But as another said, it does seem to be extremely ironic to put a $7-$14 Skin on a $200 Device to make it "right".

Overall, I suppose if that's all I can find to Beech about; it's still All Good and I'll take it and move on.
I agree. My guess is that it's very difficult to get good adherence to a zinc alloy. Unfortunately zinc is much heavier than aluminum also and that makes the M class a bit of a pocket load compared to the S class.

Duane
 
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craigsdocks

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Been using Ti coils, I am using some liquids that are prone to gunking coils.

So its a preliminary observation but I am using two tanks identical and using gunking liquids in each and changed flavors in them etc

So one coil I preheat at very low watts until it starts to color blues some yellow, purple, the other I did not preheat/color, so when I went to rewick them I ended up having to changed out the non preheated/non colorful coil because the juice had really embedded itself to the coil, to much to fool with after making some effort, while the preheated one was much easier to clean, is this a coincidence or has this been experienced by other?
 
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