SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

[Quantum Mech]

i just noticed other then four really small tiny holes on the battery cap not much for air ventilation to keep the unit cool..was that because it only takes a single battery and they did not expect much in the unit creating and the need for dissipating heat?

The holes in the cap are there if a battery vents

Board is mounted directly to the case and heat transfer seems good

Chain vaping my Zephyrus for an hour due to 'her' whining warms up the casing nicely

 

[TheBloke]

Hey guys, as some of you know I was gone for a few weeks and since being back I've not caught up with what's going on with the SX Mini M

I want to do some testing of the new Titanium mode, especially as I heard they are, or were, issues with it?

Would anyone like being so kind as to summarise what the issues with the SX Mini M/SX350J Titanium update were, if they still exist? If only to save me reading through pages and pages of another J v W argument

Oh, but at the risk of re-raising that, I'm itching to do something useful with my new oscilloscope so I thought I might also find out exactly what the different Joules settings do, in terms we can all understand such as.. watts I really want to know if it's simple such as 50J = 60W or whatever, or whether it varies the amount of watts at a given J setting or what it actually does. I don't think Busardo or anyone ever tested that and gave a firm conclusion?

 

[crxess]

Well, still haven't ventured inside to find out why the Base reading changed and needed to be locked in again.
I vaped that tank off and it was working fine, so i filled it again. Now on the 3rd fill this time around and enjoying the vape.
I will have a look...............when necessary

 

[JimScotty0]

Hey guys, as some of you know I was gone for a few weeks and since being back I've not caught up with what's going on with the SX Mini M

I want to do some testing of the new Titanium mode, especially as I heard they are, or were, issues with it?

Would anyone like being so kind as to summarise what the issues with the SX Mini M/SX350J Titanium update were, if they still exist? If only to save me reading through pages and pages of another J v W argument

Oh, but at the risk of re-raising that, I'm itching to do something useful with my new oscilloscope so I thought I might also find out exactly what the different Joules settings do, in terms we can all understand such as.. watts I really want to know if it's simple such as 50J = 60W or whatever, or whether it varies the amount of watts at a given J setting or what it actually does. I don't think Busardo or anyone ever tested that and gave a firm conclusion?

Bloke, I heard you joined the SXM world too amongst other mods and glad to see you post here in this thread. I always enjoy reading your very informative posts on the technical threads and have learned allot from your experimentations and conjecture.

I have been using the SXM in Ti mode since it was released on a few attys. The Lemo 2, STM, and my favorite the Zephrus. I also did a dual on my Mutation X v4 dripper. I find it working very stable with the only issue I have is that the temperature appears to be reading quite a bit higher on Ti mode than Ni mode with a similar build and atty between modes. As much as 80F higher. My Zephrus dual coil build is around .123 ohms, running it at around 500F or so, and usually between 26-28J. I get a fantastic vape out of it with nice flavor and clouds.

Here is my Zephrus build and experience:
SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL) | Page 348 | E-Cigarette Forum

For my Lemo 2, I have been using 26ga Ti twisted with 30ga Kanthal A1:
SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL) | Page 364 | E-Cigarette Forum

 

[TheBloke]

Thanks a lot for the kind words, @JimScotty0 . And yes I joined - although frankly at this stage it's quicker to list the mod worlds I haven't joined..

OK that's great info thanks.

Interesting to see your Titanium/Kanthal build - I'd heard of people doing that with Ni200 but figured there wasn't so much point with Titanium. But if it reduces springiness, that's interesting - my experience of twisted wire is that it always seems to add springiness. But maybe twisting with very thin Kanthal is different.

I'm yet to test temps with twisted wires - either 2 x of a TC wire, or TC wire twisted with non-TC wire - so I can't rule out that causing minor changes to temp. But you have the same with your non-twisted builds so not a factor here.

I'll do some testing and let you guys know.

 

[JimScotty0]

My 2 UD Goliath v2's vape mail came in the other night. Maybe tomorrow I will coil them in Ti and see how they perform. I am tempted to build one with Ti and the other with NI200 but being a dual coil I just don't know what build to use for the NI200 in such a small deck area.

I will most likely twist my 26ga Ti or maybe 30ga NI200 with 30ga Kanthal A1. I wonder if I should go wild and try to twist up some 26ga Ti with 30ga NI200. That should be interesting.

Has anybody tried that one?

Well tonight was the night for me to try another experiment with my one of my 2 new UD Goliath attys as I have said I might do last night.

This is a dual twisted 26ga SpiderSilk Ti with 30ga NI200 on the UD Goliath v2 sitting on the SXM.

Threw some KGD on the coils and later shaped them a bit to produce a Qorax style fat shoulder with thin wicking into the 4 large juice channels.

A view from the top after some ejuice on the wick to get them nicely placed into the juice channels.

Here is another look from the side.

All juiced up with my own Butterscotch/Caramel ejuice and ready to vape.

The build was 10/9 spaced wrap using 26ga SpiderSilk Ti twisted tightly with 30ga NI200 on a 2mm rod. I tried 2.5mm but it just wouldn't fit into the chamber so I just used a 2mm rod and pulled it tight to change the inner diameter to 2mm from 2.5mm. That worked well and was the first time I ever tried to do that with the wire tightened down on the posts.

The build turned out to be .075 ohms which has always been a good number for me on the SXM. I am finding 26J at 300F to be quite satisfying producing some of the finest flavor and cloud production of all my attys to date. Since the NI200 resistance is much lower than the Ti I am using the SXM NI200 profile for this build. I may need to adjust as the build settles in but so far it is incredible.
We'll have to see how well this works over time but so far so good! Cheers!

 

[JimScotty0]

Thanks a lot for the kind words, @JimScotty0 . And yes I joined - although frankly at this stage it's quicker to list the mod worlds I haven't joined..

OK that's great info thanks.

Interesting to see your Titanium/Kanthal build - I'd heard of people doing that with Ni200 but figured there wasn't so much point with Titanium. But if it reduces springiness, that's interesting - my experience of twisted wire is that it always seems to add springiness. But maybe twisting with very thin Kanthal is different.

I'm yet to test temps with twisted wires - either 2 x of a TC wire, or TC wire twisted with non-TC wire - so I can't rule out that causing minor changes to temp. But you have the same with your non-twisted builds so not a factor here.

I'll do some testing and let you guys know.

Actually I find that with the Kanthal A1 twisted into either NI200 or Ti it makes the coil winding and placement, spacing, etc. to be rather easy to work with. The SpiderSilk Ti is extremely springy and with the added Kanthal A1 it is rather tame to work with.

 

[TheBloke]

I have to admit I struggle to see the point of Ni/Titanium

With 26G Titanium & 30G Ni200, the Titanium never participates in the power flow, so it's identical to Ni200/Kanthal, with the Titanium just being an extra wire for flavour/stability in which case I'd think Kanthal is superior as it's probably cheaper and possibly easier to work with.

It is interesting to note that with certain combinations of Titanium/Ni200, it's possible for the active/power wire to switch over as the coil heats. 25G (0.45mm) Titanium with 32G (0.2mm) Ni200 would, at 10 wraps of 2mm dual coil, give a base Ni200 resistance of 0.123Ω and Titanium of 0.143Ω.

But by the time the combined wire temp reached about 100°C / 212°F, the Titanium would have lower resistance than the Ni200 and from that point onwards, it would be Titanium's TCR that was active for the resistance rise.

So it would be the Titanium profile that would be most accurate for the target temp and anything above 212°F, but the wire would reach 212 on Ni200's curve. How noticeable that would be in the final accuracy I'm not sure.

Anyway that's not happening with the combination of 26G Ti / 30G Ni200. And nor would it happen with most combos - if you go further in the other direction, eg 24G Ti / 32G Ni200, then Titanium has the lower resistance throughout, so it will always be accurate with a Titanium TC profile. (Maybe 24G TI + 30G or 31G Ni200 might show the same effect, I can't be bothered to run the numbers again to check.)

I still can't really see a reason to use Ni200/Titanium, as to me it seems it's at best going to be identical in effect to Ni200/Kanthal, and at worst adds some (minor) downsides like cost and perhaps wire strength (I feel like Titanium breaks easier than Kanthal of the same gauge but I've not thoroughly tested it, and that might be related to annealed Titanium which perhaps the Spider stuff is not.)

Anyway if you've got 26G Titanium and not 26G Kanthal, or have more Titanium than you'll ever use, then why not

 

[JimScotty0]

I have to admit I struggle to see the point of Ni/Titanium

With 26G Titanium & 30G Ni200, the Titanium never participates in the power flow, so it's identical to Ni200/Kanthal, with the Titanium just being an extra wire for flavour/stability in which case I'd think Kanthal is superior as it's probably cheaper and possibly easier to work with.

It is interesting to note that with certain combinations of Titanium/Ni200, it's possible for the active/power wire to switch over as the coil heats. 25G (0.45mm) Titanium with 32G (0.2mm) Ni200 would, at 10 wraps of 2mm dual coil, give a base Ni200 resistance of 0.123Ω and Titanium of 0.143Ω.

But by the time the combined wire temp reached about 100°C / 212°F, the Titanium would have lower resistance than the Ni200 and from that point onwards, it would be Titanium's TCR that was active for the resistance rise.

So it would be the Titanium profile that would be most accurate for the target temp and anything above 212°F, but the wire would reach 212 on Ni200's curve. How noticeable that would be in the final accuracy I'm not sure.

Anyway that's not happening with the combination of 26G Ti / 30G Ni200. And nor would it happen with most combos - if you go further in the other direction, eg 24G Ti / 32G Ni200, then Titanium has the lower resistance throughout, so it will always be accurate with a Titanium TC profile. (Maybe 24G TI + 30G or 31G Ni200 might show the same effect, I can't be bothered to run the numbers again to check.)

I still can't really see a reason to use Ni200/Titanium, as to me it seems it's at best going to be identical in effect to Ni200/Kanthal, and at worst adds some (minor) downsides like cost and perhaps wire strength (I feel like Titanium breaks easier than Kanthal of the same gauge but I've not thoroughly tested it, and that might be related to annealed Titanium which perhaps the Spider stuff is not.)

Anyway if you've got 26G Titanium and not 26K Kanthal, or have more Titanium than you'll ever use, then why not

Bloke, I knew I would have your attention! lol At this point in time I only have 26ga Ti and 30ga NI200 was the smallest that I have of Nickel. I was thinking along the same thought as you with the Nickel heating up the Ti and therefore waking it up, but that was only a thought having looked at your numbers in the past with your testing and not something that I knew would happen or not. But I said, WTH and figured I would just give it a try, you never know.

One thing I find strange though is 300F is giving me what I would normally use around 400F in NI200 mode so maybe the Ti is causing the overall resistance to change when the NI200 heats up.

Changing over to the Ti profile on the SXM to get the same experience I am now using the same 26J but bumped the temperature up to 500F from 300F that I was using in NI200 profile mode. Ti mode may even be a bit cooler but not much at 500F. The flavor and vapor are now about the same but I am noticing a slightly quicker ramp up times. BTW I am using Eco mode so no additional preheat due to Powerful or Powerful+ influence and my ejuice is around 27%pg/73%vg for these tests.

One of the reasons why I bought 2 Goliath v2's is so that I could experiment further. On the second one I might just try using NI200 or Ti and compare the 2 of them. I would certainly use Kanthal A1 instead of the Ti if these tests prove to be no different between when twisted with NI200 because of the cost of the Ti.

I think on the 2nd atty I will use the same 30ga NI200 and maybe 2 strands of 30ga Kanthal A1 since I don't have any 26ga Kanthal A1 on hand at the moment to replace the 26ga Ti. So that would be a triple twist and would prove whether or not the Ti is influential with the resistance when fired since the Kanthal A1 should have no influence. If I need to bump up my temperature from 300F to around 400F it would prove to me that the Ti is indeed influential. Other than the change from Ti to Kanthal A1 I will build the coils with the same size and wraps on an identical new Goliath v2 atty.

I like and need Nicotine so therefore I choose to vape, but I also feel this is a new hobby to me and enjoy experimenting to see what outcomes I can possibly get. There are no shortage of variables with this hobby and besides the cost of the hardware is very reasonable, and when doing DIY with ejuice that cost is much more reasonable too.

 

[Hitcat44]

Welcome Bloke Good to have you here and on the SXMM Mystery Vape-Science Theater.

As Jim said, biggest "Quirk" or complaint is the seemingly Non-Standard/Anomalous Operating Range the YiHi Ti FW requires to function acceptably using Ti in Ti Profile. It does great and as you and the OG Ti Senseis outline when running in the YiHi Ni200 Profile (@ 20J and 100* F less than if was Ni built). However, in the Ti Profile you have to set at higher than expected Joules & crank up the Temps to around 480-510 for it to function and produce properly and without any twitchiness. Possibly that truly IS correct and as it should be. Hopefully you can confirm or deny whether that is the Case.
Also, the Ti Profile is much less unforgiving regarding the Positive Connection (requires a VERY Static Resistance Reading) than in the Ni200 Profile. Seems as though the same Atty (a Lemo 2-known for its Center Pin Connection Woes I realize) should run with the same Attributes on Resistance in both Profiles. Such is not the case. L2 is twitchy in Ti and jumps. Without removal or any adjustments to the Connection at all, switch to Ni200 Profile, lower Temp from 480* to 290* and it is very Static on Read and in TC Operation/Production.
In contrast, an Authentic Erl Konigin is Rock Steady. Built with 26 ga, 6/5 Wrap at @ 2.6mm I.D. yielding 0.221 ohm. Running in Ti Profile at 20J and 488* F.

Just that it appears YiHi's Test Ti FW is "Off".... in several ways. Not "Bad",,, just not "Right".

Not hating or bemoaning by any means as I dig the SXMM and am very satisfied with it all around overall. Just making Observations. Not Judgments. Not my place and I am far from qualified to Judge. But, I believe you are. I await your input and thank you for your efforts to determine and clarify.

 

[Unior]

Problems with this build....any suggestions????
Using Ni200 3mm bit, 5 wraps = 0.068ohm. Single coil in Lemo 2 on SXM. This build was working great through about 1/2 tank used at various times over the last day. Resting readings would vary from 0.068 to 0.074. This morning after I locked in resistance after I few hits I almost tasted a dry hit flavor. Put down for a few hours & came back, set resistance & it read .082 & then 0.080. Which is quite a jump. I set resistance & hit it anyway. Full on DRY/BURNT HIT! I know I am going to have to dump tank & redo coil but doesn't know what the possible cause is of this since it seemed to work fine yesterday???

 

[The Golf]

Chances are the coil is loose. Tighten screws and sorted

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

 

[nic_fix]

this is my favorite mod. just does not quit. paint has a few dings but that is reasonable. I have an issue though perhaps you guys can help. I thought my battery cap was stripped but it is not. every time I put the cap on it takes 5+ tries to get is seated. very annoying. it is because the battery tube is 2mm lower than the base of the unit which is slightly larger than the battery tube. so it starts to cross thread every time on me. any suggestions as to getting it to seat easily? other than that this mod is darn near perfect to me. that one little thing is such a pain though. did this since new so did s class fyi. I am not that inept this is tricky. hmm. maybe I am. anyone else have this issue?

 

[burnie71]

this is my favorite mod. just does not quit. paint has a few dings but that is reasonable. I have an issue though perhaps you guys can help. I thought my battery cap was stripped but it is not. every time I put the cap on it takes 5+ tries to get is seated. very annoying. it is because the battery tube is 2mm lower than the base of the unit which is slightly larger than the battery tube. so it starts to cross thread every time on me. any suggestions as to getting it to seat easily? other than that this mod is darn near perfect to me. that one little thing is such a pain though. did this since new so did s class fyi. I am not that inept this is tricky. hmm. maybe I am. anyone else have this issue?

Quite a few report this as a problem I don't have an issue with this at all, my procedure is hold mod vertical (battery cap up) twist cap slightly anti clockwise to line it up then proceed to screw it on if it feels a bit tight repeat the process. hope this helps....cheers

 

[nic_fix]

repeat 10 times! I think I just figured out something because this is really on my mind right now. if I very gently rest the cap on a tiny angle towards the front of the mod then twist 1/8th turn counter clockwise it seems to catch. I really hope that continues to work but I do not have much faith in it. otherwise as I said save for the paint as well this is one of the finest mods. it is worth the minor quirks to me. other mods are not. love the 350j is mainly the thing. cannot wait for vapor flask.

 

[mr.fabe]

repeat 10 times! I think I just figured out something because this is really on my mind right now. if I very gently rest the cap on a tiny angle towards the front of the mod then twist 1/8th turn counter clockwise it seems to catch. I really hope that continues to work but I do not have much faith in it. otherwise as I said save for the paint as well this is one of the finest mods. it is worth the minor quirks to me. other mods are not. love the 350j is mainly the thing. cannot wait for vapor flask.

You can always buy another battery cap for $8 here...
Replacement Battery Cap for the SXmini Mod

 

[nic_fix]

yes, but I determined the problem is not the battery cap. two of these did this since new. however, thank you for the link. might come in handy anyways. tend to lose things.

 

[druckle]

Quite a few report this as a problem I don't have an issue with this at all, my procedure is hold mod vertical (battery cap up) twist cap slightly anti clockwise to line it up then proceed to screw it on if it feels a bit tight repeat the process. hope this helps....cheers

I agree...holding the mod vertical, bottom down is the key. Use a coin to hold the cap in place and turn backwards to catch the threads and then screw it on. Vertical is the key for me.

Duane

 

[TheBloke]

The battery cap is hands down the worst part of the SXM. Really strange design choice that spoils the feel of an expensive device. When I first got mine I thought it was broken for the first few minutes.

It doesn't usually jam for me any more, but I still find it annoying and weird.

I suppose they put in a weird battery cap to allow for the attachment of the 'tomahawk' battery extension tube. It's the gift that keeps on giving

 

[burnie71]

The battery cap is hands down the worst part of the SXM. Really strange design choice that spoils the feel of an expensive device. When I first got mine I thought it was broken for the first few minutes.

It doesn't usually jam for me any more, but I still find it annoying and weird.

I suppose they put in a weird battery cap to allow for the attachment of the 'tomahawk' battery extension tube. It's the gift that keeps on giving

I wonder if they will do a free upgraded cap for all registered owners do pigs really fly??