SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

[Hitcat44]

+1 to Vertical Orientation and a tad of counter turn at first to help align
Ain't the easiest or smoothest but no real Issues. Seems that every Non-Tube type mod I have ever owned that was designed with internally threaded Battery Caps had its own individual Method it "liked".
An old Cool Fire 2 Grenade mod was much more quirky and frustrating than the SXMM.

 

[Unior]

I have a question??? This is my setup: SXMM, Lemo2, .069ohm set resistance Temp -= 430f & 14J. So I set to above temp & then fired mod while setting joules. 14j seems to hit 430-435 within a second or so of firing. This is the way I understand to set your joules as related to temp. This may even be a little high seeing that 435 temp is reached instead of the desired 430. To me though 14j seems like a really low setting. I guess I was thinking that 18-20+ would be the answer. Am I missing something or is it simply that you don't need that many joules to reach temps of 400-450?? Which leads to my next statement. When in the heck would I need 50J or hell even 30j!

 

[JimScotty0]

I have a question??? This is my setup: SXMM, Lemo2, .069ohm set resistance Temp -= 430f & 14J. So I set to above temp & then fired mod while setting joules. 14j seems to hit 430-435 within a second or so of firing. This is the way I understand to set your joules as related to temp. This may even be a little high seeing that 435 temp is reached instead of the desired 430. To me though 14j seems like a really low setting. I guess I was thinking that 18-20+ would be the answer. Am I missing something or is it simply that you don't need that many joules to reach temps of 400-450?? Which leads to my next statement. When in the heck would I need 50J or hell even 30j!

You pretty much hit the nail on the head. The required Joules are needed to get you to your temperature setting. A low number might get you there slower and a higher number may cause the SXM to fight to keep it at temperature therefore overshooting and then hitting temp. You only need what is necessary for your build. For that reason a ton of power isn't really necessary unless your build requires it.

 

[crxess]

You pretty much hit the nail on the head. The required Joules are needed to get you to your temperature setting. A low number might get you there slower and a higher number may cause the SXM to fight to keep it at temperature therefore overshooting and then hitting temp. You only need what is necessary for your build. For that reason a ton of power isn't really necessary unless your build requires it.

May I add the time to temp is also going to be determined by power ramp up and liquid availability.
Using either soft or Standard it takes about 3 seconds to reach 400F on my particular build.
These factors will always vary a bit.

 

[Yozhik]

I have a question??? This is my setup: SXMM, Lemo2, .069ohm set resistance Temp -= 430f & 14J. So I set to above temp & then fired mod while setting joules. 14j seems to hit 430-435 within a second or so of firing. This is the way I understand to set your joules as related to temp. This may even be a little high seeing that 435 temp is reached instead of the desired 430. To me though 14j seems like a really low setting. I guess I was thinking that 18-20+ would be the answer. Am I missing something or is it simply that you don't need that many joules to reach temps of 400-450?? Which leads to my next statement. When in the heck would I need 50J or hell even 30j!

I run my Smok TCT tank at 40J, but it also has a .15 ohm nickel coil and a lot of airflow. With rebuildables, one can get great performance with ultra-low ohm coils, so you often don't need a ton of power.

 

[petemoss]

May I add the time to temp is also going to be determined by power ramp up and liquid availability.
Using either soft or Standard it takes about 3 seconds to reach 400F on my particular build.
These factors will always vary a bit.

When you say it takes 3 seconds, is that firing while you are sucking air around the coil or just looking at the display? I can't read the display while vaping.
Maybe with a mirror I could.

 

[Unior]

I know for me when I am looking at the joules & temp I am just holding SXM & looking at it. Not sure if this is correct method but yes, if I was vaping it I would also have to use a mirror.

 

[2legsshrt]

I have a question??? This is my setup: SXMM, Lemo2, .069ohm set resistance Temp -= 430f & 14J. So I set to above temp & then fired mod while setting joules. 14j seems to hit 430-435 within a second or so of firing. This is the way I understand to set your joules as related to temp. This may even be a little high seeing that 435 temp is reached instead of the desired 430. To me though 14j seems like a really low setting. I guess I was thinking that 18-20+ would be the answer. Am I missing something or is it simply that you don't need that many joules to reach temps of 400-450?? Which leads to my next statement. When in the heck would I need 50J or hell even 30j!

Thats what I have found also. I am using Ti single coil STM .27-.28ohms I like between 265-275 Ni Mode on SXM 265=12J 270=13J 275=14J Hits temp plenty fast and very stable. Great vape for me.

 

[The Golf]

My guess would be if you running simple coils, i.e single or even dual spaces coils you would not need to go above 15 even 20J but if you using claptons or fancy coils with more wire you will find you need to run hight J settings to get it to ramp up faster. Not exactly the same as some of the Chinese equating 50w to 50J but kinda similar.
Thats possibly why they just say 50w is 50J in some cases.

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

 

[JimScotty0]

My guess would be if you running simple coils, i.e single or even dual spaces coils you would not need to go above 15 even 20J but if you using claptons or fancy coils with more wire you will find you need to run hight J settings to get it to ramp up faster. Not exactly the same as some of the Chinese equating 50w to 50J but kinda similar.
Thats possibly why they just say 50w is 50J in some cases.

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

I am running 26J today and that is exactly what I need to maintain 550F in Ti mode with a dual coil Ti/Ni build. It all depends on the needs of the build, wicking, ejuice, ohms, etc.

 

[Yozhik]

The Smok TCT coil is a parallel build, so that helps explain why it needs a lot more Joules.

 

[Unior]

Thanks for the replies. Just wanted to make sure I was on right track. I have to change my coil though. Was performing outstanding at .068. Then for some reason resting resistance jumped up to .080 to 0.087. I went in & made sure screws were tight and then filled Lemo2 started at 0.74 and now at end of day it's back to .08... range. The only thing I saw when I had Lemo empty tightening screws was that coil was barely off deck. Which is not how it was installed. I raised it for sure. So I raised it again. I use a good bit of cotton with the Lemo. I know nickel is soft but surely when the cotton is soaked it isn't soft enough that the weight of the wick would distort it. I'm gonna check & see if the coil is almost on deck again before I install another one.

 

[JimScotty0]

Thanks for the replies. Just wanted to make sure I was on right track. I have to change my coil though. Was performing outstanding at .068. Then for some reason resting resistance jumped up to .080 to 0.087. I went in & made sure screws were tight and then filled Lemo2 started at 0.74 and now at end of day it's back to .08... range. The only thing I saw when I had Lemo empty tightening screws was that coil was barely off deck. Which is not how it was installed. I raised it for sure. So I raised it again. I use a good bit of cotton with the Lemo. I know nickel is soft but surely when the cotton is soaked it isn't soft enough that the weight of the wick would distort it. I'm gonna check & see if the coil is almost on deck again before I install another one.

I have been building NI200 and Ti on the Lemo 2 since it first came out and I never recall seeing the coil actually lower itself. All of my Lemo 2 builds have been 3mm either 26ga NI200 or Ti either by itself or twisted with Kanthal A1. You will however find the resistance vary slightly as the coil breaks into the build. Usually around .005 or so variance.

What are the particulars of your build on the Lemo 2?

 

[Hitcat44]

To chime in on L2 Ti Build; 26 ga 6/5 Wrap on @ 2.5mm I.D. yields about a 0.239 ohm.
The L2 adds more residual Resistance than the Erl K does.
L2 does a good Job for me on the SXMM in Ti set at 20J & 488* F loaded with 70/30 Liquid. Actually dial back the AFC to tad over half closed to get a robust flavored somewhat warm Vape.
The EK I completely remove the AFC Ring even with the 2mm Wide Air Tube Pos Pin installed.

 

[Unior]

Ok guys I need some advice or experience. You know how I have been talking about the resistance change with nickel SXMM & Lemo 2.
I am now wondering if problem is with the Lemo 2 or SXMM. First I checked my 510 on SXM & it seemed to be down to far. Anyway I pushed it a few times & now it seems ok. I did this b/c when I screw Lemo down it didn't seem like it was making a good connection by the deal of it. Next I thought I would test connectivity & firing against my Sigelei. In Kanthal mode. With atomizer screwed on the SXM set at 10.8 watts it took close to 10s for coil to heat up fully. On Sigelei it took about 5s at same exact setting. So my question is what is the issue? It seems like the connection isn't good but if the SXM & Lemo weren't making contact then it wouldn't fire at all. I know with nickel though things have to be more precise. Any thoughts??? I know people are using SXM & lemo2 so I know it isn't that they aren't comparable at all. Also, does anyone have the measurement from the tip of plated 510 to the top of the steel plate? I put the end of a blue screwdriver(the tip) on 510 & tried to mark with my fingers on screwdriver then measured that. It looks like about 3mm into connection before the 510 starts on mine. Any advice appreciated.

 

[Unior]

Hitcat44,I just sent you a PM.

 

[Yozhik]

Ok guys I need some advice or experience. You know how I have been talking about the resistance change with nickel SXMM & Lemo 2.
I am now wondering if problem is with the Lemo 2 or SXMM. First I checked my 510 on SXM & it seemed to be down to far. Anyway I pushed it a few times & now it seems ok. I did this b/c when I screw Lemo down it didn't seem like it was making a good connection by the deal of it. Next I thought I would test connectivity & firing against my Sigelei. In Kanthal mode. With atomizer screwed on the SXM set at 10.8 watts it took close to 10s for coil to heat up fully. On Sigelei it took about 5s at same exact setting. So my question is what is the issue? It seems like the connection isn't good but if the SXM & Lemo weren't making contact then it wouldn't fire at all. I know with nickel though things have to be more precise. Any thoughts??? I know people are using SXM & lemo2 so I know it isn't that they aren't comparable at all. Also, does anyone have the measurement from the tip of plated 510 to the top of the steel plate? I put the end of a blue screwdriver(the tip) on 510 & tried to mark with my fingers on screwdriver then measured that. It looks like about 3mm into connection before the 510 starts on mine. Any advice appreciated.

The Lemo 2 relies on the pin in the AFC base being pushed into contact with the center pin of the build deck. Spring-loaded 510 connectors may not have the resistance necessary to make the connection a good one. To test if this is the issue, use a 510-Ego adapter. If it is an issue, it may be corrected by pounding the 510 pin of the AFC base (e.g., with a rubber mallet, heavy book) to reseat the pin within the insulator.

Ok, now let's start the two month countdown to when I post this answer yet again.

 

[Hitcat44]

Hitcat44,I just sent you a PM.

Received and Back-atcha

 

[Hitcat44]

The lower Center Pin (and corresponding "shakiness") Issues with the L2 causing Static Resistance problems is a common occurrence. One Solution is the replace the Bottom Section of the Center Pin (the lower part protruding out of the threads) with a slightly longer one of the same Diameter made of Copper. One that works perfectly is the lower Center Pin from a Herakles Atty. Been looking for one but as of yet cannot locate the Part only. I am not prepared to buy an entire Atty just to rob its Part. Till I find one, I'll just deal with the sometimes shaky Resistance. For me, it has not been a big Issue at all and only happened a couple times.

 

[2legsshrt]

Thanks for the replies. Just wanted to make sure I was on right track. I have to change my coil though. Was performing outstanding at .068. Then for some reason resting resistance jumped up to .080 to 0.087. I went in & made sure screws were tight and then filled Lemo2 started at 0.74 and now at end of day it's back to .08... range. The only thing I saw when I had Lemo empty tightening screws was that coil was barely off deck. Which is not how it was installed. I raised it for sure. So I raised it again. I use a good bit of cotton with the Lemo. I know nickel is soft but surely when the cotton is soaked it isn't soft enough that the weight of the wick would distort it. I'm gonna check & see if the coil is almost on deck again before I install another one.

If you are in a warm climate which seems to be everywhere now, I notice that my coils at air temp or room temp resistance will be a little higher then if you check them first thing in the AM. My Ti coils will be about .27 in the AM and go as much as .29 in the PM. Remember you are only talking about a .01 to .02 change which is very possible with the warmth of the day. I usually check the resistance if I change atties but if I stay with the same one I set it when it is first built in the AM and leave it alone unless I have some sort of problem with it, I turn it up a little if I have been outside in the warmth then back down in the evening. It is surprising but true the resistance changes with outside temp.