SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

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Vlad1

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Just a heads up.

VolVapor in Nashville has Minis for $59.95 and they ship. Only a few left. Totally legit too.

Wow that's crazy price if truly authentic. I could grab 3 for less than I paid for one last year and catch up with @2legsshrt stash.
 

h00ligan

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Just a heads up.

VolVapor in Nashville has Minis for $59.95 and they ship. Only a few left. Totally legit too.

I was actually going to sell my first one but hell for $65 I'll buy a second and dump some cheaper stuff I've been using. That's an amazing price even if it is "last year" model. Hell they're fetching $120 used still.
 
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BreSha6869

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Wow that's crazy price if truly authentic. I could grab 3 for less than I paid for one last year and catch up with @2legsshrt stash.
Yup. I had the SW upgraded and confirmed authenticity right in the shop.

I was in Nashville on vacation and have no reason to mention this seller other that the price was stupid low.
 

GeorgeS

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    In the menu you can change from C to F

    Samsung 25R are my personal favourites as they run a bit cooler at 20A which is my max usage

    Don't have any of the brown LG's so not sure exactly what they are off the top of my head but have been using the yellow HE4 and red HE2 ok

    Some have been using the usb for charging but Yihi don't advise it and you might want to safeguard that port for updates although not sure there will be any more for the M class now

    Sadly The "C" and "F" selection in the menu only effects the vapor temperature and has no effect on the ambient room setting (always in "C").

    I've used the LG HE's and HG2's in the SXminiM. I think the HG2's are rated at 20A CDR.

    About the only way the battery in my SXminiM gets charged is via USB. YiHi does have a shorter warranty (3mos?) on the USB port vs 1yr for the rest of the device. I think I recall someone mentioning YiHi advising not to use the USB charging however there is no mention in the manual or their website about it. Besides outside of a possible update for their newfangled 'coil', it is rather doubtful at this point there will be any further updates. YMMV.

    Funny, both the "M" and "ML" have battery caps that suck. I recall owning some rather cheap flashlights that had a fold over tab for removing/installing it. The battery cap is one of the major distractions from an otherwise fine product.
     
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    h00ligan

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    Sadly The "C" and "F" selection in the menu only effects the vapor temperature and has no effect on the ambient room setting (always in "C").

    I've used the LG HE's and HG2's in the SXminiM. I think the HG2's are rated at 20A CDR.

    About the only way the battery in my SXminiM gets charged is via USB. YiHi does have a shorter warranty (3mos?) on the USB port vs 1yr for the rest of the device. I think I recall someone mentioning YiHi advising not to use the USB charging however there is no mention in the manual or their website about it. Besides outside of a possible update for their newfangled 'coil', it is rather doubtful at this point there will be any further updates. YMMV.

    Funny, both the "M" and "ML" have battery caps that suck. I recall owning some rather cheap flashlights that had a fold over tab for removing/installing it. The battery cap is one of the major distractions from an otherwise fine product.
    I just got in the replacement which was $19 shipped. Site is posted a couple pages back. It's a lot better but just after I ordered it I realized you can easily hand tighten the stock one and loosen it without battery rattle- just don't tighten with a. Coin and it comes right off.

    That said the replacement one is very good.

    9700f149bbe15fbb1f2b946b74d0b0a6.jpg
    m
    Samsung 25r are great batteries especially given you changer two founder ten bucks. The vtc5 I bought from eciggity (authentic) are better. But I'm not user if they're enough more to jsitify twice the price and then some. They last longer though.
     

    h00ligan

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    Yup. I had the SW upgraded and confirmed authenticity right in the shop.

    I was in Nashville on vacation and have no reason to mention this seller other that the price was stupid low.
    Well that was an awesome share. Thanks. I'm guessing they've sold out already or will soon. I told like four friends.
     
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    smokyribs

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    Box mods in general, depending on how they are put together, can have resistance issues no matter what chip is used. If the enclosure case is used as a ground for the 510 connector, or for the board for that matter, a poor ground can cause the issue you are seeing. Also if the enclosure is powder coated, painted, and etc. and the powder coat, paint, etc. is not cleaned out where the 510 fits that can also cause resistance issues. Poor grounding can also cause poor performance like you mentioned. A 0.5 ohm variance is not a small amount...
    Thanks for the headsup!

    Problem is, I got to figure out a way to take the mod apart. From the photos, it seems that the bottom metal section is kinda like a cradle that holds the chip and battery holder in place. The entire mod is then assembled together by slotting the base cradle into the wood casing and the whole setup is tightened through the 510.

    I need to figure out where the grounding wire is as well.

    2dt16dy.jpg
     

    Quantum Mech

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    Sadly The "C" and "F" selection in the menu only effects the vapor temperature and has no effect on the ambient room setting (always in "C").

    I've used the LG HE's and HG2's in the SXminiM. I think the HG2's are rated at 20A CDR.

    About the only way the battery in my SXminiM gets charged is via USB. YiHi does have a shorter warranty (3mos?) on the USB port vs 1yr for the rest of the device. I think I recall someone mentioning YiHi advising not to use the USB charging however there is no mention in the manual or their website about it. Besides outside of a possible update for their newfangled 'coil', it is rather doubtful at this point there will be any further updates. YMMV.

    Funny, both the "M" and "ML" have battery caps that suck. I recall owning some rather cheap flashlights that had a fold over tab for removing/installing it. The battery cap is one of the major distractions from an otherwise fine product.

    Really, not needed to upgrade my M classes must have seen that on the ML

    Me Bad :eek:
     

    deucesjack

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    This question might be stupid I'm sorry, but as an SX mini noob I have a question. Is it normal for the voltage on the battery to fluctuate? Like even when you aren't hitting fire? The voltage by the coil ohm reading? I dropped this recently hope it's not messed up.
    Perfectly normal. You good.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N915A using Tapatalk
     
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    smokyribs

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    Quick Question, I'm on the SX350J-V2 chip on my Custom made mod and I've noticed that asides from the 0.5ohm higher readings that I've gotten compared to the standard SX mini M or ML class mods on this mod, the battery protection also kicks in really fast.

    E.g. on a 28awg, 2.5mm ID, dual coil 10~11 wraps build reading at 0.97 ohms, the voltage required is about 5.48Volts and The battery always shows a diagonal line across it once I hit 3.95volts on my battery.

    I'm using the Samsung 25R batteries that have been through probably 200 charge cycles at max and have yet to do elimination testing to see if the problem lies in my batteries or the chip in my device.

    But as it is now, I'm only getting 6000 to 7000 joules at max on a single battery.

    Could anyone with more electrical know how enlighten me on this?
     

    Croak

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    Right behind you...
    Quick Question, I'm on the SX350J-V2 chip on my Custom made mod and I've noticed that asides from the 0.5ohm higher readings that I've gotten compared to the standard SX mini M or ML class mods on this mod, the battery protection also kicks in really fast.

    E.g. on a 28awg, 2.5mm ID, dual coil 10~11 wraps build reading at 0.97 ohms, the voltage required is about 5.48Volts and The battery always shows a diagonal line across it once I hit 3.95volts on my battery.

    I'm using the Samsung 25R batteries that have been through probably 200 charge cycles at max and have yet to do elimination testing to see if the problem lies in my batteries or the chip in my device.

    But as it is now, I'm only getting 6000 to 7000 joules at max on a single battery.

    Could anyone with more electrical know how enlighten me on this?

    Batteries ending their useful life and sagging heavily under load, there's probably nothing wrong with the board. 200 charge cycles is a lot to ask of a $5 battery, and the Yihi is very accurate on battery monitoring, and conservative when it comes to the battery safety.

    As for the 0.5 ohm variance, that is also almost certainly related to how your mod was wired, connector used, etc, and not the board.
     

    smokyribs

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    Batteries ending their useful life and sagging heavily under load, there's probably nothing wrong with the board. 200 charge cycles is a lot to ask of a $5 battery, and the Yihi is very accurate on battery monitoring, and conservative when it comes to the battery safety.

    As for the 0.5 ohm variance, that is also almost certainly related to how your mod was wired, connector used, etc, and not the board.

    Thank you! I just did some elimination testing and at around 3.95 volts, if I were to press the fire button a couple of times, the voltage reading will suddenly dip to around 3.5 volts and low battery warning comes up.

    Took that same battery out and slapped it into my other mod that's on a SX350J V1 chip and everything functions as per normal.

    It fires the same atty without issues and does not cut off the power.

    I guess it might just be an issue with the chip.
     
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