SXmini mod ... Yihi

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nic_fix

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the imren is the same size as the vtc5. I did not have the battery seated in the center of the tube. it is easy to get it a little crooked and then the cap will not screw flush. I couldn't imagine they made so it wouldn't sit flush. now that I figured that out both batteries fit fine. you can even screw it indented but flush is going to let it stand more stable. I need to go to the hardware store and get something better than a quarter. since 40+ watts is not going to cut it on usb. I will be swapping batteries. hope the cap holds up. tube looks like thin copper. the fact that it is copper leaves no doubt this is top of the line. not that poopy spring in ipv's.
 

VapinSweetZ

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Ok mine just stopped working, showing "SX350mini v1.2" on the screen and nothing is working....
Tried to leave it without batteries for few hours, plugging in to USB port with and without battery, and of course using few different batteries (all amp).
Any ideas what else I can try before sending it back?
 

nic_fix

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that's outstanding if it can be replaced by the seller. how's that for service? I take it, it is the afternoon in china right now? my seller has a final sale policy but if yihi told him to I think he would. that is the only problem with no usa presence repair is not really possible. I doubt they throw out a $200 mod.

I am sorry yours broke.
 

Technonut

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Ok mine just stopped working, showing "SX350mini v1.2" on the screen and nothing is working....
Tried to leave it without batteries for few hours, plugging in to USB port with and without battery, and of course using few different batteries (all amp).
Any ideas what else I can try before sending it back?


Sorry to hear about your issue.. Mine first shows "SXmini", then, "SX350" on boot-up, not "SX350mini v1.2" I wasn't aware there was an upgrade available yet... I don't see v1.2 on YiHi's download site either.. Hopefully, you'll be taken care of.. :)

I'm happy to report that mine has been in constant use since I've received it, and is working VERY well.. The resistance reading is more accurate than my SX350 box mod (SX350 reads 0.9 ohms, the SX350 mini reads 0.97.. Confirmed with my Craftsman digital MM), and the battery life is improved also. My vaping style appreciates the "Soft" start setting too.. ;)
 

Technonut

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WOW!! The SX350 Mini is quite accurate.. I threw on my inline load tester, and the readings on the mod are at most within a couple of points of what the load tester is showing.. :)

In "Soft" mode, the mod shows that 3.77v is being output at my set wattage. The first load tester reading is 3.32v.. The 2nd reading was right on the money @ 3.77v for the duration.. VERY steady output. :)

The "Soft" start is important to me until Dr Konstantinos Farsalinos vaping temperature study concludes. As I posted before in this thread, there is concern that harmful emissions may be created at higher wattages, and when the coil is first fired on a device. Until I see the results of the study, I do feel better using the "Soft" mode for now.. I am not too crazy about the necessity to use nickel wire on the DNA 40, and think that YiHi's solution may work well enough to prevent potential harm by starting at a lower voltage, then ramping up..

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-crowd-funded-dr-konstantinos-farsalinos.html

Controlling your build won't do much good from what I've read.. Most of the risky emissions are thought to be when the coil first fires, and then, when the button is released from what I gather.. Not the vaping in-between. The solution to this is / will be temp-control. The concept just makes sense..

These are from an interview conducted by ECF's founder, SmokeyJoe, with Evolv:

http://vaping.com/news/exclusive-int...530.1368610192

John: On mech devices, unregulated with no airflow, we saw 1200, 1300 Farhenheit. What we really found, while we were developing the temperature regulation, our big insight there which we’re happy to share, is that a lot of the research is doing this wrong; where you get the problem isn’t during the draw. During the draw you’ve got airflow, you’ve got a fairly fixed boil rate: you’re at the boiling point of your fluid during the draw. Where you run into problems is priming the device: you hit the button, you’re getting temperatures there without airflow high enough to start carmelizing your juice or, towards the end of your draw when you’re not sucking as hard. So the important times are the times you’re not drawing consistently.
 
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IanDVaypes

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Got mine a little bit ago. It's a little larger than the rdna bit it feels smaller with all the curves. Every time i take it into a vape shop, everyone around me drools over it. I was able to wire two 18650 batteries in it on a bench and test fire it at 120 watts. Now that was a powerful vape. Does anyone know of a tube that can hold two 18650 batteries conveniently?
 

dr g

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The "Soft" start is important to me until Dr Konstantinos Farsalinos vaping temperature study concludes. As I posted before in this thread, there is concern that harmful emissions may be created at higher wattages, and when the coil is first fired on a device. Until I see the results of the study, I do feel better using the "Soft" mode for now.. I am not too crazy about the necessity to use nickel wire on the DNA 40, and think that YiHi's solution may work well enough to prevent potential harm by starting at a lower voltage, then ramping up..

Sorry but that's wishful thinking at best. Nothing that does not control temperature can compare with temperature control. Sure you can just cut power before a draw but that is no more effective than feathering the button, and it does nothing for every other high temperature instance. And of course it makes boost/preheat more dangerous than not.
 

Technonut

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Sorry but that's wishful thinking at best. Nothing that does not control temperature can compare with temperature control. Sure you can just cut power before a draw but that is no more effective than feathering the button, and it does nothing for every other high temperature instance. And of course it makes boost/preheat more dangerous than not.

Well, with this mod, I do not have to think about feathering the button.. I'm not a high-wattage vaper, so YiHi's "Soft" mode solution suits me fine for now, and I can still use Kanthal.. ;) Unlike Evolv, YiHi's SX350 can be updated by the end-user. I'm confident that there will be future upgrades which will improve the function.

As it stands now, the SX350 Mini appears every bit as accurate in wattage output as the DNA series.. :)
 

Technonut

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Does this chip boost/buck? Does this work with lower ohm builds and lower wattage?

I have a Hana DNA 40 and I have been using it WITHOUT the the temp control and just using kanthal. The temp control and nickel wire is too much of a pain in the .... to deal with.


Yes, as far as the buck / boost... I'd have to look at the specs regarding the 2nd question..

EDIT: The specs show:

Resistance: 0.15-3.0 ohms

Output Voltage: 1.0-9.5v (9.5v if using dual 18650's)
 
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dr g

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Well, with this mod, I do not have to think about feathering the button.. I'm not a high-wattage vaper, so YiHi's "Soft" mode solution suits me fine for now, and I can still use Kanthal.. ;) Unlike Evolv, YiHi's SX350 can be updated by the end-user. I'm confident that there will be future upgrades which will improve the function.

As it stands now, the SX350 Mini appears every bit as accurate in wattage output as the DNA series.. :)

You'd probably be surprised to see the actual relationship between temperature and wattage. It's quite easy to get extremely high coil temperatures out of relatively low wattage.

But then we all knew this from the days of cartomizers no?
 

Technonut

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Could anyone shed light as to where this could be bought? I've searched in vain, and all I can see is pre-orders. Is that the only way to get one?


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They still show in-stock here for $199.00... They shipped mine promptly. I did phone to verify stock. (Google for phone #):


Yihi SX-Mini – Euphoria Vapor LLC
 

Impulso

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WOW!! The SX350 Mini is quite accurate.. I threw on my inline load tester, and the readings on the mod are at most within a couple of points of what the load tester is showing.. :)

In "Soft" mode, the mod shows that 3.77v is being output at my set wattage. The first load tester reading is 3.32v.. The 2nd reading was right on the money @ 3.77v for the duration.. VERY steady output. :)

The "Soft" start is important to me until Dr Konstantinos Farsalinos vaping temperature study concludes. As I posted before in this thread, there is concern that harmful emissions may be created at higher wattages, and when the coil is first fired on a device. Until I see the results of the study, I do feel better using the "Soft" mode for now.. I am not too crazy about the necessity to use nickel wire on the DNA 40, and think that YiHi's solution may work well enough to prevent potential harm by starting at a lower voltage, then ramping up..

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-crowd-funded-dr-konstantinos-farsalinos.html

This is interesting. Wonder whether this is true(not doubting you but curious). This would mean the over boost function of the P3 is actually worse than no boost?


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