TAE (Tilemahos Armed Eagle)
- Thread starter imeothanasis
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Quad coil for Tilemahos EAGLE...
Not with me, I found too tight both pins, much better without pin. The bad thing about the absent of the pin is the liquid on the mouth, I hate it [emoji39]
BTW, just a remainder to Imeo. We want a mod for the Armed Eagle capable of use the IVR.
Hint, If it is like the Esterigon or Proteus much better. Just that, not difficult [emoji106][emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
BTW, just a remainder to Imeo. We want a mod for the Armed Eagle capable of use the IVR.
Hint, If it is like the Esterigon or Proteus much better. Just that, not difficult [emoji106][emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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My observations after spending some time with the new TAE.
The machining on this model is so much more precise than the TA (not saying that it was bad, the TAE is just that great). The threads are as smooth as butter on every piece. Refilling cap is a VERY welcomed change. The ability to remove the deck to change wicks/coils with not having to worry about the juice in the tank is ingenious. I can't stress enough how much more beefy and well made each component is compared to past versions of any GG atomizer.
The small tweaks on the springomizer deck portion solved any Tc issues I had with the TA using Tc. Now I insert the spring and make sure to compress the non-conductive ends of the spring tight on each end; then make sure it has a good solid connection to my Dani No.6 and BOOM 20c every time I initialize it (yes I keep it ~67F in my house). The stand that you can get from FabVape is really handy and worth the 10 Euros. It can hold your TAE when not using it and double as a building deck with the honeycomb glow in the dark insert removed.
The drip-tip that now includes the spit-back protection works better than the TA. Bringing the shoulder of the chimney up higher so you don't have to constantly make sure your drip-tips are tight, TIGHT is a great improvement too. The added "EAGLE" engraving is a touch that helps put this atomizer over-the-top into a category I've not yet seen in a RTA.
I can honestly say having owned 6 Gen1 Ithakas, one Updated Ithaka, a Penelope v4, 4 Tilemahos Armed, a SM mini, eBarron Dripper by Leo and a few others; the Tilemahos Armed Eagle is the pinnacle of every bit of engineering, machining, research and development and customer feedback and has set itself so far ahead of every other RTA that they will play years catching up.
While some may find the accuracy of the machining somewhat trivial, it's actually what really sets the TAE apart from the group. There are o-rings only where you absolutely need them for all the functions to work, and work well. If I had to guess, I'd say the measurements of the final product are probably separated by .001 of a mm (between ready-for-sale and scrap)
You've taken it to a whole new level Imeo, I'm impressed!
Now if I could just figure out how to trade 2 TAs I purchased a month ago in for TAEs and pay the difference....
The machining on this model is so much more precise than the TA (not saying that it was bad, the TAE is just that great). The threads are as smooth as butter on every piece. Refilling cap is a VERY welcomed change. The ability to remove the deck to change wicks/coils with not having to worry about the juice in the tank is ingenious. I can't stress enough how much more beefy and well made each component is compared to past versions of any GG atomizer.
The small tweaks on the springomizer deck portion solved any Tc issues I had with the TA using Tc. Now I insert the spring and make sure to compress the non-conductive ends of the spring tight on each end; then make sure it has a good solid connection to my Dani No.6 and BOOM 20c every time I initialize it (yes I keep it ~67F in my house). The stand that you can get from FabVape is really handy and worth the 10 Euros. It can hold your TAE when not using it and double as a building deck with the honeycomb glow in the dark insert removed.
The drip-tip that now includes the spit-back protection works better than the TA. Bringing the shoulder of the chimney up higher so you don't have to constantly make sure your drip-tips are tight, TIGHT is a great improvement too. The added "EAGLE" engraving is a touch that helps put this atomizer over-the-top into a category I've not yet seen in a RTA.
I can honestly say having owned 6 Gen1 Ithakas, one Updated Ithaka, a Penelope v4, 4 Tilemahos Armed, a SM mini, eBarron Dripper by Leo and a few others; the Tilemahos Armed Eagle is the pinnacle of every bit of engineering, machining, research and development and customer feedback and has set itself so far ahead of every other RTA that they will play years catching up.
While some may find the accuracy of the machining somewhat trivial, it's actually what really sets the TAE apart from the group. There are o-rings only where you absolutely need them for all the functions to work, and work well. If I had to guess, I'd say the measurements of the final product are probably separated by .001 of a mm (between ready-for-sale and scrap)
You've taken it to a whole new level Imeo, I'm impressed!
Now if I could just figure out how to trade 2 TAs I purchased a month ago in for TAEs and pay the difference....
I have the exact same experience. I wish there could be a 4 or 4.5mm pin (don't know if the walls would be too thin for durability)
YES! YES! YES!
I have the exact same experience. I wish there could be a 4 or 4.5mm pin (don't know if the walls would be too thin for durability)
YES! YES! YES!
I'm being serious here, help me understand how a thin walled insert @4mm as opposed to running the AD center pin without an insert would keep you from getting liquid in your mouth.
I understand that you would have something attached to the 5mm AD center pin housing but it would still (at the largest) be a 4mm wide opening in a .5mm walled cylinder so the result would be; liquid is draining down the center and blocking the airflow, flooding the atomizer; which would result in liquid coming up with the air because the liquid is blocking the airflow, correct?
Got mine Juhu
What I love:
No more steel<->plastic threading ruining the mostly sold out tanks if not screwed VERY carefully.
What I like:
The look - design (eagle engraving
The size
The new drip tip form.
Glas, not plastic
What I don't know:
What are these parts for?
Sorry, I'm too stupid to upload a picture.
It's a big white plastic ring (app 1cm high,2cm diameter , a small white plastic cylinder and a round metal stick App 5cm Long 6 or 7mm diameter.
What I need:
Practice in refilling as on the first try I had a massive leaking overflowing my trousers, me, and my table.
What I'd like:
Small riffles on the top cap to grab it more easy for opening/ closing.
What I do not like:
No airflow control ring (like on Springomizer and even better on Armed.)
the reasons that I didnt made air ring were two marst:
solid construction. No moving parts that dont let you unscrew well the atomizer from the mod
ad ring reduce air but reduce vape and hit too. Pins are exactly what we need to have a perfect vape
A little more to expand on Imeo's comment-
Changing the airflow at the AD pin is a much more thermally efficient way to regulate airflow across the coil/wick. An unfortunate issue that arose with adjustable AD rings is by restricting the airflow via closing an exterior ring, the more it closes the more it makes the entire system work harder. When airflow is restricted before entering the atomizer's vents, it will begin to overheat because it has less cool(er) ambient air coming into the bottom chamber of the atomizer. This results in the atomizer unnecessarily building heat in the structure and making your battery work harder per puff.
Back when there was no way to regulate the airflow to the coil/wick by changing AD center pins, adjustable external AFC was needed; it's just not needed anymore. Moving completely to different sized AD center pins you end up with less moving parts, less o-rings to wear out, less machining and when running in Tc mode on a mod with a spring-loaded center (+) pin, the chance of altering the atomizer's connection then having to reinitialize the device.
Your doubt raises a reasonable question. Not about whether what I say is valid, as I am not the only person who has experienced it, but rather - why does this happen? I don't know. I find with no insert, after 2 or 3 draws, I get a small amount of unvaped liquid on my lips/end of my tongue. This is eliminated with an insert in place. A gg drip tip without the spitback protection also seems to work. At no point is there any flooding, gurgling or excess liquid in the base. It even happens when the lfc is not open enough and the hits start getting dry.
Honestly, though, I really like the look of the stock driptip and I feel like I lose a little flavor with the open center post. I would appreciate a center pin that is a little tighter than the open center pin and a little looser than the 2mm. Now that I see the biggest stock center pin is only 2mm maybe a 3.5mm pin would be nice.
Anyways, a larger ad center pin would be a great option for many reasons.
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I have ordered and received my TAE it came with a what seems like a 3D printed plastic building stand that I can build on but I will order a ring I like to see my Ohm's and test fire when I am building. Funny I was not aware that anything was coming with the TAE and almost throw it in the garbage.
My observations after spending some time with the new TAE.
The machining on this model is so much more precise than the TA (not saying that it was bad, the TAE is just that great). The threads are as smooth as butter on every piece. Refilling cap is a VERY welcomed change. The ability to remove the deck to change wicks/coils with not having to worry about the juice in the tank is ingenious. I can't stress enough how much more beefy and well made each component is compared to past versions of any GG atomizer.
The small tweaks on the springomizer deck portion solved any Tc issues I had with the TA using Tc. Now I insert the spring and make sure to compress the non-conductive ends of the spring tight on each end; then make sure it has a good solid connection to my Dani No.6 and BOOM 20c every time I initialize it (yes I keep it ~67F in my house). The stand that you can get from FabVape is really handy and worth the 10 Euros. It can hold your TAE when not using it and double as a building deck with the honeycomb glow in the dark insert removed.
The drip-tip that now includes the spit-back protection works better than the TA. Bringing the shoulder of the chimney up higher so you don't have to constantly make sure your drip-tips are tight, TIGHT is a great improvement too. The added "EAGLE" engraving is a touch that helps put this atomizer over-the-top into a category I've not yet seen in a RTA.
I can honestly say having owned 6 Gen1 Ithakas, one Updated Ithaka, a Penelope v4, 4 Tilemahos Armed, a SM mini, eBarron Dripper by Leo and a few others; the Tilemahos Armed Eagle is the pinnacle of every bit of engineering, machining, research and development and customer feedback and has set itself so far ahead of every other RTA that they will play years catching up.
While some may find the accuracy of the machining somewhat trivial, it's actually what really sets the TAE apart from the group. There are o-rings only where you absolutely need them for all the functions to work, and work well. If I had to guess, I'd say the measurements of the final product are probably separated by .001 of a mm (between ready-for-sale and scrap)
You've taken it to a whole new level Imeo, I'm impressed!
Now if I could just figure out how to trade 2 TAs I purchased a month ago in for TAEs and pay the difference....
impressed with your post prong!
Yes, I checked every single piece this time to be sure that TAE will be absolutely without any fault. I also pushed machine shop to make new pieces when I was founding even the smallest details that I didnt like on every piece. And yes, the threads and the accuracy are great.
About the accuracy, its 0,02mm, better than any other GG piece before. I see some manufacturers saying that their accuracy is 0,001mm. Please keep in mind that there are no accuracies like this, only on aerospace and these cost 1000 per piece
we can go up to 3,5mm grateI have the exact same experience. I wish there could be a 4 or 4.5mm pin (don't know if the walls would be too thin for durability)
YES! YES! YES!
right prong. And also the speed of the air is smaller when you restrict the air with a ring when you use pins the speed is higher so the system stays cooler
happy to know that you received it Adam!
By the way, if you want to test your coil, you can do it without any third party ring. Just make your coil, put it inside the feeding base, screw the 510 base and you can test it.
The third party ring is used only to make the coil by screwing the rebuildable part on your electronic base that tests the coils
I am making right now 0,8mm - 1mm - 1.2mm - 2,5mm and 3mm pins grate
Great I figured that I am glad you are making a 3mm pin I look forward to that 2mm not enough 5mm to much for me somewhere in between I think will be perfect but really enjoying the TAE so far have not tried everything yet but soon. I look forward to seeing some new decks as well if I can say one thing about the TAE it will be the most versatile tank ever made in terms of customizing to a users specific needs or taste , airflow and with different build decks it will be 100% custom which I like Thanks Adam
I would think Imeo would make one at some point if there are enough people having the issues that you and others are having. It does seem odd that 1.5 mm and 2.0 mm plugs were included then it goes all the way up to a 5 mm. If they aren't prohibitively expensive to make, I would think that either a 2.5 and 3.0 would be nice additions. I think once one reaches the 4 mm zone it would be too thin a wall on the plugs. If it is really, really bad, you could use a drill press to enlarge the hole on one of the plugs you won't ever use. I'm really interested in what does cause the liquid build-up. I always try to understand the concepts used in vaping, especially atomizers. I'll try it out on mine soon and see what experience I have with it and if I can't figure out what's going on. The more thinking about it the better
I'm with you though, and that was the reason for my reply; I wonder what's causing it in the first place. It sounds like there are more than just you having the issue so if you come up with a solution before a possible 3.5 mm plug can be made, I'd really be interested in your findings.
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