TAE (Tilemahos Armed Eagle)

[NandyDC]

Help please!!! I need help with the wicking for the Eagle. Im struggling at it. I haven't seeing a good video showing how to set the wick inside the rebuildable part. Imeo's video doesnt show it and the only other video is from a lady but is not helping me either. My problem is that it doesnt matter how I set the wick always is flooded and the leakage is huge that Im afraid of damaging the electronic on my mods.
I have to just open the liquid control for just a few seconds and close it again to vape until is dry and repeating the process again to continue vaping. Is frustrating and losing too much liquid. Maybe Im doing something wrong, dont know. You know Im not new to this but like we says here in PR (aun al mejor cazador se le escapa una liebre = even to the best hunter the rabbit escape) Even Homer nods. [emoji39]

This how I wick my Eagle:

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[Ariel_MX]

Could it be possible that you are placing the rebuildable part wrong? I mean, that it is feeding the liquid through the springomizer channels...

 

[NandyDC]

Thanks Ariel, yes I did that one time. I dont know, maybe I not packaging enough cotton on the bottom of the rebuildable part. I use most of the time 80 or 70% PG liquids, almost like water [emoji39]

Im getting Video not found on YouTube.


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[Ariel_MX]

Thanks Ariel, yes I did that one time. I dont know, maybe I not packaging enough cotton on the bottom of the rebuildable part. I use most of the time 80 or 70% PG liquids, almost like water [emoji39]

Im getting Video not found on YouTube.


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It is the video of the Tilemahos Eagle in Greek (the latest video on Imeo's YouTube Channel "Imeo Thanasis").

Yes, 80 / 70 % PG is very "thin", by the way, are you using cotton or rayon?

 

[GusE]

Help please!!! I need help with the wicking for the Eagle. Im struggling at it. I haven't seeing a good video showing how to set the wick inside the rebuildable part. Imeo's video doesnt show it and the only other video is from a lady but is not helping me either. My problem is that it doesnt matter how I set the wick always is flooded and the leakage is huge that Im afraid of damaging the electronic on my mods.
I have to just open the liquid control for just a few seconds and close it again to vape until is dry and repeating the process again to continue vaping. Is frustrating and losing too much liquid. Maybe Im doing something wrong, dont know. You know Im not new to this but like we says here in PR (aun al mejor cazador se le escapa una liebre = even to the best hunter the rabbit escape) Even Homer nods. [emoji39]

This how I wick my Eagle:

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi there,
I did that mistake too in the beginning. You need to insert the deck first in with the wick side in the hole with the 2 dots and once it clicks the you screw the base. Never the base with the deck. Hope this helps.

 

[NandyDC]

It is the video of the Tilemahos Eagle in Greek (the latest video on Imeo's YouTube Channel "Imeo Thanasis").

Yes, 80 / 70 % PG is very "thin", by the way, are you using cotton or rayon?

Im using japanese cotton.

Today Im using more cotton and is better, Im cutting the edges more longer but is blocking the air. But not more leakage. My problem is the lack of electricity here in PR. Im rebuilding at dark mostly. [emoji30]


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[NandyDC]

I think I found my problem, because Im using it without the center pin (too tight with it) maybe the cotton get loose at some point. What I did now is setting the wick with the center pin in and after I set the rebuildable part inside the tank I remove the center pin. So far no leakage.


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[imeothanasis]

Could be there are just no problems with the eagle worth to be reported here [emoji4]

By the way I had a talk with the guys from Dicodes and they told me that somebody has measured Imeos Zirconium Springs and found out that the correct TCR setting for them on temperature control mods is 100.
And yes with the setting they work great. (Tried it On the Dicodes and a Geek Vape Aegis)

thats true marst, its 100

 

[imeothanasis]

I think I found my problem, because Im using it without the center pin (too tight with it) maybe the cotton get loose at some point. What I did now is setting the wick with the center pin in and after I set the rebuildable part inside the tank I remove the center pin. So far no leakage.


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i was ready to post that but you found it nandy

By the way, you have to leave 15mm of wick per side and then put it inside the housing

 

[NandyDC]

i was ready to post that but you found it nandy

By the way, you have to leave 15mm of wick per side and then put it inside the housing

Thanks Imeo, that would be very helpful to know.


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[Johnboy123]

Glad you sorted Nandy, I have 2 eagles and just ordered another they are the best atties I have ever owned I will now sell all my other atties,
Cheers.

 

[NandyDC]

Glad you sorted Nandy, I have 2 eagles and just ordered another they are the best atties I have ever owned I will now sell all my other atties,
Cheers.

Yeap, I barely use other atty since I got the Eagle. [emoji106]


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[taurus65]

Hello to all.
I need a little help from you with a detail in the deck.
As you can easily see in the picture below in which my atomizer is depicted, there is a little "imbalance" associated with the distances of the lips of the air hole and the posts. To me the distance between the right edge of the hole from the right post is sligthly greater than the left one. So i would like to know if this is the "rule" or it happens to mine as an exception.
Thanks in advance.

 

[imeothanasis]

i cant see the pic my friend taurus

 

[taurus65]

i cant see the pic my friend taurus

Just click onthe logo "imgur" on the top left of the black image and it will be shown
Or look at the picture below.

 

[imeothanasis]

taurus, I am impressed you saw this! Its nothing, its just the fact that the threads produce this effect. We are talking for 0,2mm difference

 

[taurus65]

With all my respect imeo, you mean that all the TAES have this "effect"? I really can't see how the threads(?) are related to this.
i am afraid that this tiny difference may affect the right placement of the coil which it should be right in the middle of that air hole having equal legs attaching to the posts . Thus, the vaping experience could be affected.
Anyway, if you think that there is no reason for deck replacement, i'll live with that.

 

[imeothanasis]

With all my respect imeo, you mean that all the TAES have this "effect"? I really can't see how the threads(?) are related to this.
i am afraid that this tiny difference may affect the right placement of the coil which it should be right in the middle of that air hole having equal legs attaching to the posts . Thus, the vaping experience could be affected.
Anyway, if you think that there is no reason for deck replacement, i'll live with that.

let me explain you taurus:

When 2 of 3 pieces get connected, they have to have a tolerance to work together. The center post and the negative base have a tolerance of 0,1mm so the one can go inside the other. If you add the fact that there is a tolerance of 0,1mm between center post-negative base combo and sandwich plastic, you have the total tolerance of 0,2.

Forget that the 0,2 mm tolerance can affect your vaping. Your minimum coil may be at 4mm. The 0,2mm on a total of 4mm is simply nothing. Imagine that you cant even put your coil at the real middle of the air hole because you are human and not a machine.

Even the ready china coils have tolerance. If there is no tolerance then the pieces on an atomizer cant work together. Its the nature of constructions in general

 

[taurus65]

Then, my doubts are vaporised after expressing your opinion.
I need to thank you for your time.
Keep up the good work!

 

[imeothanasis]

be well buddy