Haha well hopefully we won't be the only ones experimenting with this
I'd expect we'll see a lot of different firmware forks and experiments for all sort of crazy stuff.
I also wonder if that 1.0Ω limit is actually enforced. With the dna 40, which auto-detects between TC and non-TC (at least when TC is enabled), it's easy to imagine that it will simply not fire in TC with a >1.0Ω coil. In fact, that might one reason for the limitation - it's a handy way to ensure TC is never even attempted on plus-ohm (opposite of sub-ohm!) Kanthal builds.
But what about a Yihi, or other mod that have dedicated TC and non-TC modes? The Yihi chips also state a max of 1.0Ω. Is that a guideline, or is it enforced?
Some time I will do a test.
I've heard a lot of people express that fear... Then there's me, with only two atomizers I don't use for TC... both of which are .1ohm or lower at all times lol.Building higher Ohm coils is not a bad idea when you have to many atomizers on the shelf, but 0.6 Ohm should be high enough if you use it on your mech mod by accident.
It was likely the upper limit of it's capability to calculate temperature for nickel. Had it known you were using Resistherm and had the right TCR curve, it probably wouldn't have been a problem.One thing I noticed on one of my mods (DNA40 clone) with a single resistherm 1.04 ohm coil was a warning on the screen saying "Ohms too high". Hilarious! Only during dry burn though and it still worked great. But this might be the cause of issues when ohms get too high you need higher voltages to power the coil. So if you hit the voltage limit the power is reduced.
It was likely the upper limit of it's capability to calculate temperature for nickel. Had it known you were using Resistherm and had the right TCR curve, it probably wouldn't have been a problem.
One thing I noticed on one of my mods (DNA40 clone) with a single resistherm 1.04 ohm coil was a warning on the screen saying "Ohms too high". Hilarious! Only during dry burn though and it still worked great. But this might be the cause of issues when ohms get too high you need higher voltages to power the coil. So if you hit the voltage limit the power is reduced.
on a genuine dna40 that message indicates hitting converter output voltage limit. not sure whether it means the same on a clone.
what would be the ideal ohm range for a dual coil with 317L for temp control ?
Do you know whether the DNA 40 enforces the 1.0Ω limit for TC? Will it allow firing of a 1.01Ω build in TC or will it always switch to power mode if resistance is >1.0Ω - same as it does if it doesn't detect rising resistance?
The DNA40 does not enforce most limits, it soft limits, i.e. it will do the most it can with whatever it is given.
Why would a mod not have a lock into TC mode. The fact that people have problems with them popping out of TC mode because of an auto-sense failure would surely convince them to have one in place.
I absolutely agree with you.Agreed. As I just posted in the DNA 200 thread, auto sense is past its sell by date. I can understand that it sounded like a good idea at the time when they made the DNA 40, but it's not a good idea. Power and TC are very separate modes. There's been a number of times on my TC mods when I've wanted to fire in Power mode despite normally using TC - on a DNA 40 (and clones) ,that means I have to lock the mod, scroll through all the temp settings to OFF, unlock, do my power stuff, lock it again, scroll back to the temp I had before, unlock again.
Compare that to any of the other mods with proper modes, where I just go to the menu and change Power to TC and do my stuff, and when I go back again, my temperature (and locked resistance if I had one) is all remembered.
Far better, even in the normal use case - before you even consider autosensing sometimes not working, as you said.
If Evolv really think Autosense is a huge benefit and that a lot of people like it (I doubt they do), then they should offer three modes: Power; TC; Autosense. Allow the user to decide if they want an Auto mode, and allow them to lock into one or the other mode if they don't.
Actually, if you have to have an autosense mode, the way SXK implemented it is not bad: they did it very simply, by not having autosense at all. If you have TC on, it's always in TC. Then if you fire into a Kanthal coil, it simply sticks at your set watts - because the resistance never changes, so it thinks the coil is always at 68°F (or whatever your room temp is), nowhere near your setting. So no need to reduce watts.
It's probably not clean and neat enough for an expensive mod/chip to implement, but it works surprisingly well - allowing TC vaping and Kanthal vaping with no changes. Of course what it doesn't do is solve the problem of wanting to fire in Power mode even when you have a TC coil fitted (as one may well want to do with eg Resistherm/Alloy 120). So being able to set a specific mode is still best in my view.
OK.. but not sure this is a "soft limitable" thing? So you're saying that if I had a 1.1Ω coil build with TC enabled on a DNA 40 and fired, it would not switch out of TC?
sure. you could fire as high as you like until it reaches the limits of the converter. i just fired a 4.22 ohm coil.
Hey @vapealone
I've been thinking about doing the same as you and getting some Alloy 120 from Resistance Wire. My main concern is that it seems so much better than Resistherm - available in wide range of sizes; higher TCR (0.0043 - 45); generically available - so why did Dicodes not choose that instead of Resistherm?
It could be that they wanted to control the market with a rare wire. Or perhaps Resistherm has some major advantage?
Could you tell me:
- Can you dry burn it and make micro-coils out of it, like Kanthal?
- With Resistherm, I can make a micro-coil and then dry burn it exactly like Kanthal - tweaking it until it glows perfectly inside-out, exactly like we've always done with Kanthal
- What is the resistance per metre like? Maybe that's the difference - I think I just saw on a data sheet that the resistance might be as low as Ni200's?
- If you make a standard 8 or 10 wrap coil with say 26 or 24 gauge, what will the resistance come out to?
- Any other factors you can think of to compare it against Ni200 or Kanthal?
- Is it as strong as Kanthal generally? As usable for coiling?
- Have you ever tried using it for non-TC vapes - I can do that with Resistherm; did it perform OK?
- Obviously with a higher TCR I'd expect, for a non-TC vape, the strength of the vape to decrease as the resistance increases. But does it at least seem to work in principle?
Thanks in advance!
Well this thread really blew up lol. So much to read but quite a lot of very interesting info! I unfortuantely haven't been following so I want to ask a few questions:
1) The worksheet posted is very interesting but why can't I edit / copy it please?Without being able to see the contents of the cells it's hard to understand and to see what is actually calculated. Did you do own measurements to get these data or is this all from various datasheets? Thanks for sharing anyway.
2) So the TCR of nickel actually IS non linear in the temperature range of 0-200°C after all? Is the linear TCR value of 0.6% per degree really inaccurate then?
3) What is the difference between Nickel DH and NI200? Both have above 99% nickel. Are they really that different or what is up with that?
One idea I had is that with an open source chip like the Whiteout OS / Ares we might actually be able to attach a thermostor to an unused GPIO pin of the arduino board and measure these coefficients effortless and easily.
yes it was a tc coil. ni200 works, ti might not, depends on the gauge.