I might have to get some of that for my Dad - to actually use on his dentures
I don't know if it works for that but I assume it likely does
TC beyond Ni200: Nickel Purity, Dicodes; Ti, SS, Resistherm NiFe30; Coefficient of Resistance
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I don't know if it works for that but I assume it likely does
I don't know if it works for that but I assume it likely does
Gotta be worth a shot, right?
Actually it was dentures that first got me experience of ultrasonics - I had been thinking of getting one, and happened to mention it to my Mum who said "Oh, I think we've got one of those?" It's a tiny little one, meant for a pair of dentures, but they'd never used it so I commandeered it and for a couple of months it was quite useful for cleaning one new atty at a time. But I do now rather prefer my 2 litre with 99 minute timer, 60W ultrasonic and 50W built-in-heater (Chinese, of course.)Oh PS. I ordered the Digi-sense probe. The more I looked at it the more interesting it became. When we first discussed it I hadn't been correctly visualising quite how thin and flexible it is - of course it's 0.5mm, 24G, the same width as often used for coils! So it's basically a hardened stretch of wire, super bendy and flexible but also strong. I think it's going to be much easier to get the probe in just the right position, and hold in that position. And with nearly triple the maximum temperature of my current probes.
So thanks again for that!
I very nearly also bought their $150 USB thermometer logger
Had it in my basket right until the last checkout page. But in the end I decided that was going a bit too far, for now at least. Theirs can log two probes at once where my UNI-T annoyingly only logs one (despite monitoring two), and I downloaded the software for theirs and it's a bit of a nicer interface with a couple of minor extra features. And it's rated as slightly more accurate. But I really don't need any of that.Though what convinced me more than anything was it was "Available within 25 days". I figured if I was going to have to wait nearly a month anyway I'd wait and see how the new probe went with what I already have. And maybe research other such devices more carefully if/when I do decide I need a better one.
For that it's pretty much a "must"I might have to get some of that for my Dad - to actually use on his dentures
Glad to see you ordered the temperature probe, I think it will work nicely for its intended use. Will be interesting to see how accurate your observations and formulas work out to be.
Has anybody considered hydrogen peroxide for cleaning coils? It does react to carbon based material and is completely harmless once the reaction occurred (oxygen and water).
I used to use it to clean out flavors from atties. It's the only thing that removes any flavor from silicon o-rings
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
I used to use it to clean out flavors from atties. It's the only thing that removes any flavor from silicon o-rings
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
Titanium coils? Spaced or contact? When do you do your first Set Resistance, before or after wicking?
Included. The total resistance figure that the mod reads, and which it shows on its screen, is:
In an ideal world, the resistance value shown on screen on your mod would be the same as CR. No Static Resistance at all. But of course that's impossible because the atomizer is made of metal and it has to have some resistance of its own.
- CR + SR
- CR = Coil resistance
- SR = Static Resistance
You can often get an idea for how much SR there is by a) checking the resistance of a given build on a mod that shows resistance to three decimals (eg the IPV3Li), b) calculating from Steam Engine Wire Wizard the resistance for the stretch of wire you used for that coil - being very careful that you have the exact right width of wire, are correctly counting the number of wraps of the accurate inner diameter, and are including the right amount of leg length.
Or a more accurate way: Cut a short section of a higher resistance wire, like Kanthal or Stainless Steel. Attach it tightly between the posts of the atomizer - not coiled, just straight between them (or slightly bent if necessary depending on the deck layout.) Measure the resistance on an accurate mod with three decimal place display. Now remove the stretch of wire and precisely measure its length, using digital callipers if possible. Now use Wire Wizard to calculate the resistance of that length of wire - on Wire Wizard, enter 0 for wraps and 0 for inner diameter, then just put the length of the wire into the "Leg Length" box, like this:
View attachment 489517
Make sure the wire thickness is correct - you can see there how I didn't enter 26G, but entered 0.40mm as I know my wire is 0.40 not 26G exactly. Buying wire in the US it's more likely to be 26G (0.405mm), but some wire is given in metric so check.
Anyway, once you know the resistance of the exact amount of wire you used, just subtract that figure from the resistance value you got on the mod. Whatever's left is the static resistance of that atomizer.
When I do this, I get a nice flat, straight piece of wire, and then I tighten it down really hard, hard enough that the screws cause a distinct bend/distortion in the wire at the point where I attached them to the atomizer. Then I can much more easily measure the precise length between those indents, to see what figure to put into Wire Wizard
Yeah, adjusting to taste is absolutely fine. Whatever gives you a vape you like is fine! TC doesn't need to be ultra accurate, any TC vape that feels good and doesn't give dry hits is a fine TC vape.
Personally I like the idea that I can set any build on any atomizer on any (accurate) mod to 230°C and get the same vape. But it's no big deal at all if I can't.
For me, explaining this stuff is a) to show the underlying principles, so each person can take as much or as little from it as they want - and especially so they can handle the more extreme cases (like if someone currently only gets a good vape at 350°F and doesn't understand why) and b) for the interest of learning about and discussing the principles, for the general sake of knowledge and enjoyment - not necessarily for actual practical benefits.
So don't feel you have to make adjustments just because your vape is 12.71°C inaccurate
I set it after wicking and juicing and yes, I am using spaced Ti coils. Haven't fooled with contact Ti coils at all. I usually just wrap 2 strand parallel and then unscrew them to get nicely spaced coils. I did misspeak though. Its not .02 its .002 change after using the coil for a little bit and then no change ever after that. Since I don't dry burn before use with Ti like I did with kanthal I just assumed it was working any kinks out after heating and thats why it only changes the one time.
I'll have to try that trick with the piece of wire to measure static resistance tomorrow and see what I come up with. I too like to tinker, albeit not like most of you guys, and while I now know I can just offset the temp my inquiring mind wants to know just for the heck of it! I do get a pretty consistant vape from build to build at any given temp. though. I rarely adjust it. Joules on the other hand I have had to vary from build to build but that is expected I suppose.
I've been dry burning my Ti before wicking it. Based on the resistance change on my IPV D2, I estimate the temperature to be around 800°F. Coil turns blue/purple with no visible white oxide layer.
Am I gonna die?
Am I gonna die?
I've been thinking about Titanium Clapton coils lately and having no experience with these types of coils it occurred to me that one of the big problems might be "gunking" of all the little crevices that make them attractive to some people in vaping.
I'm curious about chemical cleaning of our coils and I'm wondering about dilute strong bases like Sodium Hydroxide (lye). Both titanium and stainless steels are resistant to Sodium Hydroxide solutions at room temperature so it might be something interesting to explore. Sodium Hydroxide is very effective at removing organics from our kitchen drain.
I'm going to do a little exploration with some titanium coils on a junk atomizer and see what happens.
I have some pure Sodium Hydroxide I've used to regenerate granular ferric oxide for a salt water aquarium so I know it's pure stuff.
Caution though, many of the drain cleaners have additions of other materials to make them more aggressive so if anyone wants to explore this I would highly recommend that only a pure lye be used for the experiments.
Double caution. Lye is not something to handle lightly. It can burn you severely. Rubber gloves and eye protection are critical and ALWAYS ADD A MEASURED AMOUNT OF THE LYE TO WATER NEVER ADD WATER TO LYE. As the material goes into solution it gets hot and can boil/splatter if the water is added to the solid.
Also I would recommend removing o rings prior to the cleaning. Depending on the o ring material they may disappear.
Of course a VERY thorough rinse and maybe soaking in vinegar to neutralize any residual NaOH in crevices is very highly recommended if someone does experiments with the idea.
I am NOT recommending this approach but I am curious. More later.
Duane
I was just talking about this the other day. Some kind of solution to put the coils in to eat the gunk but not harm the wire. I keep meaning to look into in. I'll give the hydrogen peroxide a shot and maybe something else since I have two coils next time I rebuild. Any suggestions for a solvent would be welcomed.
As to Ti claptons I use them, usually 26/32, having noticed any more gunk than on a plain ole spaced traditional coil but then again it seems my coils gunk quicker than most in general. Lol definitely worth a try though. I really enjoy them.
Well, I had some unexpected staining on the bone top cap of my Matai (wood) mod made by VR Wood Mods. Three of us knocked around possibilities for cleaning. I settled on Ultrasonic (max 480 sec cycle) with hydrogen peroxide (3%).
Being concerned that I might damage the bone I took a cautious route: short cycles, then longest cycles, for a total of ten cycles. I stopped when it was evident that the stains were removed. Interestingly, this also loosened the epoxy holding one of the magnets, later easily fixed.
Thus, I believe this would be a safe means of cleaning coils and will prolly experiment once I have my SS from Zivipf, due tomorrow or next day. Until now I have been of the school, 'flavor requires a new coil the moment taste degrades' even a small degradation. We will see...
BTW, Thank you for giving thought to CR + SR. Nice work. [emoji106]
Personally, I wouldn't risk it by using dangerous solvents since you can dry burn your coil and then use a sonic cleaner to perfect it.
I agree that burn + ultrasonic is an excellent way to clean. I couldn't live without my ultrasonic now. But not everyone has one, so I do think it's good to experiment to find safe chemicals to do the job. Something like Polident certainly won't be dangerous, and the others can be tested to see.
Has anybody considered hydrogen peroxide for cleaning coils? It does react to carbon based material and is completely harmless once the reaction occurred (oxygen and water).
I used to use it to clean out flavors from atties. It's the only thing that removes any flavor from silicon o-rings
This has always been a pet peeve of mine. You say it works good on o-rings? Really interesting.
You use the household kind of H2O2 or something else, more concentrated?
800°F /426°C / blue-purple is perfectly fine. I used to pre-burn/pulse my Titanium to that colour to reduce springiness.
Tony, Duane and others are now dry-burn cleaning theirs to around 580°C / 1076°F which is considered a safe margin near the maximum for Titanium (600°C).
30% since that's what I use to feed my angelfish
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
Hope this is the right topic to ask in.
How well does TC work with twisted titanium? Does twisting the Ti affect the mods accuracy/firing? I've also heard Ti coils should be made as contact coils rather than spaced, is that also true?
Never had a TC device before so excuse my noobish questions cheers
How well does TC work with twisted titanium? Does twisting the Ti affect the mods accuracy/firing? I've also heard Ti coils should be made as contact coils rather than spaced, is that also true?
Never had a TC device before so excuse my noobish questions
cheers
Hope this is the right topic to ask in.
How well does TC work with twisted titanium? Does twisting the Ti affect the mods accuracy/firing? I've also heard Ti coils should be made as contact coils rather than spaced, is that also true?
Never had a TC device before so excuse my noobish questions
Twisted works fine. I regulalry use tightly twisted 30g! Can use contact or spaced. If contact you might need to lightly pulse the wire until it starts to go blue to get a good electrical insulation between the wraps but some dont do this and it works. Have a look around this thread and the Ti thread for more info!
Hope this is the right topic to ask in.
How well does TC work with twisted titanium? Does twisting the Ti affect the mods accuracy/firing? I've also heard Ti coils should be made as contact coils rather than spaced, is that also true?
Never had a TC device before so excuse my noobish questions
As long as the coiling material is Ti, then it doesn't matter what kind of coil you use. It can be a quad double dragon fused clapton for all TC cares. All the mod needs to know is 1) that it's Ti and 2) what the base resistance of coil is at room temperature.
As for spaced coils, this goes back to nickel because nickel was prone to shorts and hot legs, etc. I have had no problem with squeezing my Ti coils.
Yeah Ni200 is the only coiling material we've ever used that is hard or impossible to make as contact coils.
Chapter 7 in the epic tome "Vaping with Ni200 : Our Tortured Past", or: "How I learned to stop worrying and hate Ni200."
Chapter 7 in the epic tome "Vaping with Ni200 : Our Tortured Past", or: "How I learned to stop worrying and hate Ni200."
Titles of the first six chapter? [emoji102]
Or, do I need to re-read every post in the DNA 40 thread?
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