Solution: Use Nifethal 52 (Zivipf 48), and only Nifethal 52.
I do.
Only confusion for me is whether I'm using the SE curve or linear TCR. Each of those has its own Profile. Problem solved! [emoji12]
TC beyond Ni200: Nickel Purity, Dicodes; Ti, SS, Resistherm NiFe30; Coefficient of Resistance
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Solution: Use Nifethal 52 (Zivipf 48), and only Nifethal 52.
I do.
Only confusion for me is whether I'm using the SE curve or linear TCR. Each of those has its own Profile. Problem solved! [emoji12]
That's what I'm currently on right now (on most tanks)... still like using SS430 though, now that I have it in 25 awg! The zivipf NiFe is working out great though... glad I ordered it.
I'm glad I'm not the only one having this problem. I have a dripper setup with dual coils which I haven't used for a month, and I've absolutely no idea what kind of wire is in it. I suppose when I settle on one wire type this will become less of a problem, but I'm of course experimenting between Ti, NiFe and SS.
That reminds me, I tried Crazy Wire's SS430 .4mm (26AWG) and using the TCR from steamengine gives me an awfully weak vape. It bascially hits my target temp way too early and of course the mod drops the output power to compensate. Anybody else experience this? I have to ramp the temperature up to ridiculous levels to compensate. (570F)
In the same atty, I can install an Zivipf NiFe48 coil, making sure that the wires are trapped good and proper in the screws, and that the screws are torqued down good and hard. As always there is an absolutely stable cold resistance reading. I always pulse the coil without TC activated to check for hot spots, hot legs, and to check that the microcoil glows evenly from inside out. I always pay particular attention to my wicking, ensuring that the cotton is snug but not choked. That comes from lots of experience of using non-TC kanthal builds, which teaches you how to wick properly. An NiFe48 coil behaves perfectly, and I can run that at 430F and get an awesome vape.
I've been using an Erlkonigin primarily, which has a non-adjustable 510, and lovely stable coil screws. It has lots of airflow and has proved to be my fave TC setup. I'm also using the Calix by Leo which also yields good results, although the coil screws are not ideal, with an almost 45 degree angle coming from the screw head down to the threads, which tend to push thicker wire out from being trapped the harder you torque the screw down, but still workable once the wires are properly trapped. Less ideal are Taifun atties, whose adjustable 510s seem to move inwards everytime you unscrew the atty off to refill and reattach, giving an erroneously high resistance reading until you go at the 510 with a screwdriver.
So what's with the Crazy Wire SS430 (from UK Vape Mesh Company)? And seemingly some atties are less ideal for TC than others. What are your experiences with good RTA's, I obviously need to go shopping.
That reminds me, I tried Crazy Wire's SS430 .4mm (26AWG) and using the TCR from steamengine gives me an awfully weak vape. It bascially hits my target temp way too early and of course the mod drops the output power to compensate. Anybody else experience this? I have to ramp the temperature up to ridiculous levels to compensate. (570F)
In the same atty, I can install an Zivipf NiFe48 coil, making sure that the wires are trapped good and proper in the screws, and that the screws are torqued down good and hard. As always there is an absolutely stable cold resistance reading. I always pulse the coil without TC activated to check for hot spots, hot legs, and to check that the microcoil glows evenly from inside out. I always pay particular attention to my wicking, ensuring that the cotton is snug but not choked. That comes from lots of experience of using non-TC kanthal builds, which teaches you how to wick properly. An NiFe48 coil behaves perfectly, and I can run that at 430F and get an awesome vape.
I've been using an Erlkonigin primarily, which has a non-adjustable 510, and lovely stable coil screws. It has lots of airflow and has proved to be my fave TC setup. I'm also using the Calix by Leo which also yields good results, although the coil screws are not ideal, with an almost 45 degree angle coming from the screw head down to the threads, which tend to push thicker wire out from being trapped the harder you torque the screw down, but still workable once the wires are properly trapped. Less ideal are Taifun atties, whose adjustable 510s seem to move inwards everytime you unscrew the atty off to refill and reattach, giving an erroneously high resistance reading until you go at the 510 with a screwdriver.
So what's with the Crazy Wire SS430 (from UK Vape Mesh Company)? And seemingly some atties are less ideal for TC than others. What are your experiences with good RTA's, I obviously need to go shopping.
So I have the TCR from steamengine fit NiFe52 (well is NiFe48 from ZiViPf)
And if I lock the resistance at say .08 and go to run it at 50w and 420 degrees, I get an almost instant temp warning. Even running it at 550 got me the instant warning.
But if I heat the coil a little and set it to .09 it works pretty damn well.
Anyone got any solutions?
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And if I lock the resistance at say .08 and go to run it at 50w and 420 degrees, I get an almost instant temp warning. Even running it at 550 got me the instant warning.
But if I heat the coil a little and set it to .09 it works pretty damn well.
Anyone got any solutions?
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Did you remember to dry-burn the coil BEFORE wicking, removing hot legs, hot spots, so the coil is heating from the inside out?
If you did not the Nifethal 52 will EVENTUALLY catch up but the idea is to get the coil heating properly before you wick it.
Yes I did dry burn. It's heating evenly and there's no hot legs
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You may just be underwicked if it's reaching temp protect instantly. All it takes is insufficient wick-to-coil contact in a spot or two to cause that.
Hi mate,
If I remember correctly, @TheBloke had a problem with the CW 430 and I think he decided it wasnt 430 at all. I may be worng but maybe try a lower TCR value - say for 316 or 304 maybe?!?!
edit: on reflection, this is the wrong way around. If it is 316 or something and you are set for 430, you should be burning too hot, not too cool....In any case, htting TP too fast could also point to a wicking/AF issue as much as anything else. The wire might be just fine but Im a bit surprised you arent burning cotton/juice at 570F! What mod you using bud??
edit2: Just a heads up but ByLeo guys will be supplying calix/apollo deck screws with a flat inside to address just the problem you mention!
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I've tried everything. Rayon/cotton. Jamming it in there to the point of almost deforming the coil, having it loose. Big puffy legs of wick, small whispy legs of wick.
But it's odd, if I lock it +.01 (so reading at rest is .009 but I lock the resistance to .10) it runs perfect. But -.01 and it doesn't work v
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Will I think 570F was just the TCR being out and me having to use an offset. I am using the Efusion DNA200, and also the DualSX SX350J. It's the same on both, and I don't have problems with other wire types. Additionally a friend had exactly the same problems with the CW SS430. I'm absolutely sure it isn't a wicking issue, I'm a very experienced "wicker" LOL, and there's plenty of airflow. I really think it is the fact that, as you say, it's not 430 grade stainless steel. I've played about with nudging the TCR value manually, until it performs correctly, but this isn't the first time I've had problems with wire from Vape Mesh.
And yeah Billyecig has said that new screw types will be available soon. I might bundle that order together with the Sophia V2
Will I think 570F was just the TCR being out and me having to use an offset. I am using the Efusion DNA200, and also the DualSX SX350J. It's the same on both, and I don't have problems with other wire types. Additionally a friend had exactly the same problems with the CW SS430. I'm absolutely sure it isn't a wicking issue, I'm a very experienced "wicker" LOL, and there's plenty of airflow. I really think it is the fact that, as you say, it's not 430 grade stainless steel. I've played about with nudging the TCR value manually, until it performs correctly, but this isn't the first time I've had problems with wire from Vape Mesh.
And yeah Billyecig has said that new screw types will be available soon. I might bundle that order together with the Sophia V2
Yeah, I didnt think it was a building issue for a moment!! Just that, as you know, this TC business can get pretty weird sometimes lol!
Anyway, why stop at the Sophia V2 (which is brilliant btw), throw in the Calix V2 as well...lol!!
Let us know if you figure out the TCR issue!
At the price I was too lazy to re-read all this thread so I just chucked a few bits in my basket
Hopefully will find a gooden in the mix
Hopefully will find a gooden in the mix
At the price I was too lazy to re-read all this thread so I just chucked a few bits in my basket
Hopefully will find a gooden in the mix
View attachment 515839
24g 430SS!!! I'm seriously jealous.
Is the 430SS the one to have then mate
I got a mix as could not be a**ed to trawl this thread for more info
Vape mesh company aka crazy wire have plenty in stock and cheap too
http://www.vape-atomizer-mesh.com/products/430-Grade-Stainless-Steel---Magnetic.html
You'll have to keep us posted on your builds and results as you're the first here to get 24g 430ss as far as I know.
Hi All,
This might be off topic but with all the tech heads around here I figured a good place to maybe nut out my problem with a STM v2 RBA deck.
I've got two v2 RBA decks for my sub tanks and when using SS317L one performs just great. The other one though always pops a coil leg about 10-20 vapes after filling the tank.
I dry burn and check for even heating and hot legs as part of my build process. I am running both a VS RDNA40 and 200 and have the issue on both (obviously without TC on the 40).
Any ideas?
PS The issue is 100% repeatable.
This might be off topic but with all the tech heads around here I figured a good place to maybe nut out my problem with a STM v2 RBA deck.
I've got two v2 RBA decks for my sub tanks and when using SS317L one performs just great. The other one though always pops a coil leg about 10-20 vapes after filling the tank.
I dry burn and check for even heating and hot legs as part of my build process. I am running both a VS RDNA40 and 200 and have the issue on both (obviously without TC on the 40).
Any ideas?
PS The issue is 100% repeatable.
Twisting up the 28g works good for me, always liked twisted wire more anyway.
24g would be nice to have though.
Usually between the coil and the post. Although one time I just kept dry pulsing the coil (that is after glowing it to work out hot spots etc and at my usual vaping settings). Instead of the leg popping the coil just collapsed approximately bang in the middle.
I have one STmini that was flakey with tc or without. The rba pos pin was barely touching the base pos pin when screwed in. I found it by looking through the largest airflow slots in the base. When I tightened the rba down I could see daylight on one edge of the junction so I knew it wasn't compressing. My other two STminis compressed together fully before the rba even tightened up all the way.
So I was getting res fluctuations from that one STmini but never popped a coil. Just radical changes in tc temp and sometimes my mod jumped out of tc.
To fix it I tapped on the bottom of the base 510 pos pin to make it move upwards before installing the rba. Installing and tightening the rba then pushes the pin back down and makes a better connection.
Mods with weak 510 connector springs can make the problem worse than ones with strong springs.
If this is what's happening with your STmini your mod may be seeing intermittent higher res and therefore applying intermittent higher voltage which may be breaking your coil.
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