Awesome, thanks @cigatron for the tip. I might try you're suggestion and if that works, as a more permanent solution put a bit of silver solder on the top of the 510 pin. Will let you know how it works out!
Thamks again.
TC beyond Ni200: Nickel Purity, Dicodes; Ti, SS, Resistherm NiFe30; Coefficient of Resistance
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Awesome, thanks @cigatron for the tip. I might try you're suggestion and if that works, as a more permanent solution put a bit of silver solder on the top of the 510 pin. Will let you know how it works out!
Thamks again.
Your welcome. May I suggest putting the silver solder on the rba pos pin instead of the base pos pin? The rba pos pin is easily removeable whereas the base pin is not; it's captured in a tight fitting insulator which could be damaged if removal is attempted. The insulator could also melt if an attempt to silver solder the pin was made while still installed.
Of coarse removing the rba pos pin will release the pos post on the build deck and likely ruin your coil but better that than destroy the base insulator.
Good luck and keep us posted.
I have never had an issue removing the base pin, it slides out pretty easily. Hell I remove the insulator and pin a few times a month when I clean out the base.
Which way does it slide out @pbanj ? I've tried both directions but mine are tight tight tight on the og V1. I can barely get them to move.
Mine (ST) is the early 25 mm one. I cut off the spring loaded pin and built up the bottom of it with silver solder early on.
But nowadays that base pin has been installed from the inside and is upside down, it's insulator is still in original position. I am using a v2 RBA in it, that required me to shorten the chimney tube by a couple mm and install a thicker o-ring on the base of the RBA.
Since I'm thinking about it I suppose I should see if the throw away heads still fit it.
A bit long with a disposable head:
But nowadays that base pin has been installed from the inside and is upside down, it's insulator is still in original position. I am using a v2 RBA in it, that required me to shorten the chimney tube by a couple mm and install a thicker o-ring on the base of the RBA.
Since I'm thinking about it I suppose I should see if the throw away heads still fit it.
A bit long with a disposable head:
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Can anyone give me a run down on the SSV controversy? What are the claims they were making and how are those claims incorrect? I do not feel like digging for hours in this thread to find the discussion about it. I know we have a metallurgist here who thoroughly debunked some of their claims and I want to find this info for future reference.
Okay so what's everyone's consensus on NiFe48 (or NiFe52)?
And I think I might have some sort of idea on why mines running so funky (not firing well at say .09 but at .10 it runs fine)
I do dry burn them, which I was told would be fine, but the last couple builds I may have dry burned in excess; if there is such a thing.
Could that effect the coil? Or the resistance?
Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk
And I think I might have some sort of idea on why mines running so funky (not firing well at say .09 but at .10 it runs fine)
I do dry burn them, which I was told would be fine, but the last couple builds I may have dry burned in excess; if there is such a thing.
Could that effect the coil? Or the resistance?
Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk
So you're saying I should pulse fire them just to make sure they glow evenly and don't have any hot legs. But never dry fire them to the point where they glow orange for a long period of time?
Not quite.
I am saying consider changing your method. For example, I am now PULSING at 20 watts in power mode on my rDNA 40, taking it really slow, until I get an inside-outside glow.
I get the same result as "dry-burning" just a different, or apparently different, means.
Got it?
Read ya loud and clear buddy.
I gotta rebuild tonight or tomorrow so I might give it a try.
Yes, that's also a big issue. I was talking more about how their Ti is not really Grade 1. They are selling Grade 2 Ti (which is cheaper to make) at a dollar per foot, when you can buy Grade 1 for $.30 per foot.
I believe now they admit it is not Grade 1, but they wont admit it is merely Grade 2. IIRC, they are saying it is some specially made alloy just for them (which is BS).
All I want, really, is to find druckle's posts on this issue as he is the expert on Ti.
I'm using the v2 base and on that it pushes down. I think it's made like that so if the post of a coil is a bit long it can still screw down all the way.
Oh great! Intermittent res changes suck and are often hard to find. That connection between the rba and base is the only shortcoming of STminis when using temp control. Glad that fixed it for you.
Joyetech just released a v3.0 firmware for the eVic VTC Mini. It adds a specific SS316 TC mode as well as a variable TCR TC mode! Hot dayum! It also simplifies the screen layour a bit. This, perhaps, makes the VTC Mini the least expensive variable TCR APV. I hope it works!
Very nice!
I am sure glad I got rid of my VTC mini...
Oh, TrollDragon. You would have never known that Joyetech would do this. Should you really want another, I'm sure there will be many sales in the near future...
Very nice!
I am sure glad I got rid of my VTC mini...
They can be had so cheaply now, you may have turned a profit. Get two this time.
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