Terminator RA Tank

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hippieben

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And then there is what I have posted before about to negative wire being pinned under the locking ring that is causing this problem. The simple fix is to coil the negative wire around the wick in the area where the ceramic housing screws into the base, it works great for me.
The wire being under the ceramic housing ring is making the ring sit crooked which causes the mouth piece to sit crooked and the juice simply leaks through the gaps created by this. Since changing my grounding method I have no such leaks/flooding and my liquid control now seems to make a difference when I open or close it, before it was not that sensitive.

The Oddy version 1 has the same problem this is why version 2 and Penelope grounds in a different way.

hmm that sounds like something I should try. I'm a bit unclear on where you suggest to wrap the negative wire, could you post a picture? Also, what gauge wire are you using for NR? My NR is probably 36ish gauge (doesn't actually say on the spool, but it's pretty thin) and the locking ring doesn't seem to be crooked, but then again, I have never looked for it to be crooked before but I'll take a peak at it next time I fill up.
 

dwcraig1

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I knew about this problem but never thought much about it until I bought a couple of Penelope's and noticed how different they were just after refilling. I have held the parts in question under my big magnifying glass while shining a light across it to try to see this gap, couldn't see it. But when I used the alternative ground the slight flooding on refill stopped. Navy_Lifeguard - Nautilus
@ 7 minute area
He really could have done a better job of wrapping it though, maybe put it in the right place the first time.
 
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dwcraig1

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Ahhhhhh, I can definitely dig that. I'll give it a try.

I just put a new coil in mine and I juice up the wick pretty good before putting on the mouth piece. After filled and ready to go I can only get one toke before I have to open the mouth piece, before it would be anywhere from 10 hits to hours before that I had to open it.
 

hippieben

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I just put a new coil in mine and I juice up the wick pretty good before putting on the mouth piece. After filled and ready to go I can only get one toke before I have to open the mouth piece, before it would be anywhere from 10 hits to hours before that I had to open it.

That method seems to work much better, the mouth piece is much straighter and the juice control seems to do more controlling. It borders on pain in the ..., but hopefully I'll get better at it the more I do it.
 

dwcraig1

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That method seems to work much better, the mouth piece is much straighter and the juice control seems to do more controlling. It borders on pain in the ..., but hopefully I'll get better at it the more I do it.
It is a little awkward, I was thinking about adding it at the same time that I wrap the regular coil.
Now if others will only do this method, no one seemed to show any interest , I feel it is the best tip that I posted about.

I'm doing this with silver but just got a spool of nickel, that is going to be harder to do I think.
 
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hippieben

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It is a little awkward, I was thinking about adding it at the same time that I wrap the regular coil.
Now if others will only do this method, no one seemed to show any interest , I feel it is the best tip that I posted about.

I'm doing this with silver but just got a spool of nickel, that is going to be harder to do I think.

Well to be fair, I looked back through the thread to find the post you were talking about when you first replied to me and didn't see it, so it may just be flying under the radar. Maybe people will see it now that we've actually talked about it. I may try wrapping it with the original coil, but that will probably make it harder to get the wick into the ceramic or lead to either the wire or wick buckling up when it's pushed into the channel. Let me know how it goes, I'm going to leave this set up for as long as possible. Need to ration my wick for a bit. Unfortunately it's 2.2 ohms which is a bit too high for my liking though.
 

hippieben

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It is a little awkward, I was thinking about adding it at the same time that I wrap the regular coil.
Now if others will only do this method, no one seemed to show any interest , I feel it is the best tip that I posted about.

I'm doing this with silver but just got a spool of nickel, that is going to be harder to do I think.

Pre wrapping works very well. Just gotta make sure you put it in the right spot. My first attempt was too low and I ended up with a pretty well frayed wick. Luckily it was around where it would get trimmed anyway. This is my best constructed wick, still too high a resistance though but fits very well in the channel. I ordered 12 feet of wick, so experimentation can continue.
 

JazzyTech

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I tried Navy_Lifeguard's method. It works but I had contact issues a few times so I came up with a different method: Take the NR wire that you'd normally use to wrap around the wick(as Navy did) and use it as a washer; sandwich it between the base and the large nut wrapping it all the way around. This ensures good contact, and keeps the nut from tilting. Be careful when tightening; it will pull the wire tight and snap it if you're not careful. I've only done this once so far, but has worked great for me. Much easier than notching a stainless steel washer for the wire :)
 
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JazzyTech

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dwcraig1

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My 15ml Magnum Terminator, I got tired of having to refill every couple of hours so ............
15ml Magnum Terminator.jpg





The only problem with it is the mouth piece in the bottom isn't connected to the mouth piece in the top tank. I just wanted to see what it would look like.
 
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dwcraig1

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I was reading some stuff on another forum and ran across this pretty good tip that I will pass along here:

If you are going to open up your Terminator or similar device turn it upside down before you screw the mouthpiece down otherwise the liquid
inside of it will be forced down into the ceramic and air tube.

At first this didn't make much sense to me but it seems to work.
 
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comptechltd

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Hey all,

I was watching the Navy Lifeguard video and I noticed on his nautilus there is a what looks like a Delrin washer tht goes on before the o-ring on the centerpost. Mine doesn't have one of these and I've noticed my centerpost sticks through a bit further through the base than what I think it should. Anybody else noticed this??

Steve
 

dwcraig1

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Hey all,

I was watching the Navy Lifeguard video and I noticed on his nautilus there is a what looks like a Delrin washer tht goes on before the o-ring on the centerpost. Mine doesn't have one of these and I've noticed my centerpost sticks through a bit further through the base than what I think it should. Anybody else noticed this??

Steve
go ahead and add a spacer between the bottom o-ring and the little knurled if you feel the need to shorten that post from sticking out so much, I plan do do that as soon as I run across the right spacer/washer.

oh, yes, i noticed it, there appears to be something extra under the ceramic housing also
 
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