Navy Lifeguard also didn't have that first metal "washer" directly under the ceramic assembly so he probably needed to have something else in there for sure.
Terminator RA Tank
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Navy Lifeguard also didn't have that first metal "washer" directly under the ceramic assembly so he probably needed to have something else in there for sure.
Yeah, that's why I put it in quotes; it's not exactly the best word, but I'm not sue what is. Right below the ceramic housing there is that first notched, metal disc, and you trap your positive lead between that and the metal nut you tighten down. Navy Lifeguard didn't have the metal "washer"/disc so his positive lead was just getting sandwiched between that nut and the bottom of the ceramic housing. So he'd need to have something else on that center pin to to get that black o-ring down as low as it would normally be. I don't know if his came that way or if he removed that metal disc and added that washer himself.
Ahhhhhhh!!! I know what you mean now. The reason I was asking about the delrin/plastic is I am still having some leaking/gurgling issues and I remember reading somewhere that the Ody V1 had a similar problem and Imeo stated the delrin spacer/washer against the O-ring kind of acted as a 'lock' nut to keep the ceramic base from coming loose or something to that effect.
Steve
Steve
Right on. Yeah, I wasn't trying to disuade you from your search, I was just pointing out that Navy Lifeguard's Terminator was set up differently than ours to hopefully stop people running around thinking they need to get one because they're "missing" a part.
I haven't had any leaking out the bottom so far (aside when I majorly flooded it one time), but hopefully you guys find a suitable piece to get things running smoothly, and then I'll be a step ahead if I ever do encounter that problem
I'm having a heck of a time with this thing. Just got a new tank and mouthpiece from silicawicks and like it so far. My problem is I either have dry hits or flooding. I've had my Penelope for several months and really have never had a problem. I've already rebuilt the coil a couple of times in my Terminator but still can't seem to get it vaping just right.
Steve
Steve
So as to not confuse anyone, I am going to put a small spacer directly on top of the bottom most o-ring so that the positive post doesn't stick out quite as far but will still compress said o-ring well
That is exactly what I was thinking of doing. What kind of spacer are you going to use?? Material / Size???
Steve
Steve
It really wouldn't matter on material as long as it is hard , around the OD of the o-ring, doesn't rust and the right thickness which is probably 1 mm or less . It will be positive ( part of positive post) if metal is used so use some judgement there as to how big around it is. Something similar
in size to that bottom O-ring sounds about right, maybe a little thinner though.
That is similar in size (OD) to the squished o-ring that is.
in size to that bottom O-ring sounds about right, maybe a little thinner though.
That is similar in size (OD) to the squished o-ring that is.
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Did you read a few posts back about how the negative wire causes the mouth piece to tilt causing flooding, the last time that I set mine up with the ground wire under the locking ring I vaped it for 3 hours before I ever open the mouth piece
Yeah, I'm definitely going to be trying one of the alternate ground connection methods tomorrow. I'm not sure which one I'm gonna try first, but I'm certainly start finding out tomorrow. I was beginning to wonder if my being able to vape the whole tank without opening the juice flow was related to my top cap issue, but after talking with Stormy and reading around a bit more I'm thinking I don't actually have a top cap issue. This talk about the ground connection is adding to that belief.
I like my tank and mouth piece from SilicaWicks.Com much better than the one from Rampage, the one from Rampage is Ok but the other was well worth the $13 more. The one from SilicaWicks the tank is more flush with the ends and it is a little larger.
Yes I did. I currently have it wrapped around the wick in the ceramic channel. One thing I have noticed is the new mouthpiece from silicawicks when screwed onto the ceramic holder seems to be a little 'sloppy' on the threads. It will tighten up fine when closed all the way and I really like it because the base is thinner, more like the Penelopes is.
You guys have really got me thinking about this but I am at work and will have to wait to try this, here goes
On the Penelope there is no o-ring up against the bottom of the ceramic housing, there is a plastic spacer of sort.
This appears to be an area for problems because when tightening the positive wire under the knurled nut occasionally the whole shaft turns a little and breaks my silver wire. I have never had this happen with the penelope, it feels much sturdier the way it mounts to the ceramic housing.
So by putting the right size(thickness) piece two birds could get nailed with one stone.
On the Penelope there is no o-ring up against the bottom of the ceramic housing, there is a plastic spacer of sort.
This appears to be an area for problems because when tightening the positive wire under the knurled nut occasionally the whole shaft turns a little and breaks my silver wire. I have never had this happen with the penelope, it feels much sturdier the way it mounts to the ceramic housing.
So by putting the right size(thickness) piece two birds could get nailed with one stone.
Off on the side somewhere:
I ordered a Term C, r wire, nr wire and wick for a friend.
I set it up using my wire and wick, I stopped to see him to check how he was making out with his Term and he said he made his first coil. Then he told me that he needed more of both type wire soon. At first I didn't think much about it but he got 10 ft of 32 nichrome and 6 ft of silver. When I see him again I'll ask him if he re-wired his toaster or something
I ordered a Term C, r wire, nr wire and wick for a friend.
I set it up using my wire and wick, I stopped to see him to check how he was making out with his Term and he said he made his first coil. Then he told me that he needed more of both type wire soon. At first I didn't think much about it but he got 10 ft of 32 nichrome and 6 ft of silver. When I see him again I'll ask him if he re-wired his toaster or something
That's a good one. That should last 6 months to a year depending on how often you rewick it. I don't very often.
During the time we were all posting, my Term started having exactly the problems that you are describing, and I think I know what's up with mine. I'm leaving work for home and I'm going to get after it as soon as I get there. I'll post it later.
Well it's later and it wasn't what I thought which was the top o-ring for the tank or the one on the mouth piece. Ended up just re doing the whole thing, put a little plastic spacer under the bottom most o-ring.
All is well so far, this was my first real problem, I was hoping to have something to post but got stumped.
Much later, all is still good, I sure wish that I knew what went wrong but at least it's OK now.
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Thinking of the "Spacer/Washer" issue. I found a quick solution by cutting a plastic wall anchor and sanding it down to 0.5 mm. Since I can't verify the materials used in the plastic, I'm looking for alternatives. I just had a thought: Tubing used in fish tanks? Comes in quite a few sizes.. thoughts? I think I'm going to my local Hobby shop to find some tiny spacers (like the ones used in R/C helicopters)
That is what I used, the part that stays on the outside of the wall.
Aquarium air tubing may split too easily.
I'm getting ready to do in one of my drip tips, they don't the Term otherwise anyway.
Aquarium air tubing may split too easily.
I'm getting ready to do in one of my drip tips, they don't the Term otherwise anyway.
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