The “Cola” Method Taken to Another Level That Works

[crazyhorse]

I've been planning go the HVAC store where I buy chemicals and parts to get me some of the Nu-Calgon Ice Machine Cleaner. The Nu-Calgon website list them as a dealer. I have to go to that town tomorrow so I called today to see if they have stock it. No on the Nu-Calgon but they stock the Atlantic Chemical Equipment variety. They say it works just as well but is much less expensive.

Atlantic Chemical - New Webpage

My experience with ACE products is only with their evaporator coil cleaner. It works just as well as the top-of-the-line Virginia brand but is indeed much less expensive. I'll get a bottle of the ice machine cleaner tomorrow and check it out.

Edit: That was a miscommunication. For some reason the guy at the HVAC supply assumed I wanted nickel safe. That is what they switched to in the ACE brand. For regular liquid cleaner, they still stock the Nu-Calgon.

 

[crazyhorse]

These huge long threads are so cumbersome read in their entirety. Did I miss any posts that discuss the amazing ability of the Nu-Calgon to strip every trace of paint off an atomizer in the space of a few hours?

 

[rsngfrce]

These huge long threads are so cumbersome read in their entirety. Did I miss any posts that discuss the amazing ability of the Nu-Calgon to strip every trace of paint off an atomizer in the space of a few hours?

I don't remember that ever being mentioned. Probably depends on the durability of the atomizer paint job... my M401 atomizers were in the stuff on and off for what, something like over 100 hours, and did not loose their paint. I do remember a post in another thread by Kate where she said something (I forget what, but much weaker than NuCalgon) removed the paint from her Janty Kissbox atomizer...

 

[crazyhorse]

OK thanks rsngfrce. I sure don't recall reading about it so here comes the advisory. (Heheh, like anyone will ever find it in here.)

Nu-Calgon Liquid Ice Machine Cleaner is deadly to the metallic blue paint on a DSE-801 atomizer. The paint came off in sheets in the test tube. If you have these atomizers, definitely plug off the bottom and drip the cleaner inside to an appropriate level and ensure you don't get any on your paint.

 

[Sun Vaporer]

These huge long threads are so cumbersome read in their entirety. Did I miss any posts that discuss the amazing ability of the Nu-Calgon to strip every trace of paint off an atomizer in the space of a few hours?

CrazyHourse--I can report that that on the many occations I have done this experiment with Nu-Calgon--I have never had any paint come off any of the atomizers-----Sun

 

[chuckie]

Hi Crazy,
I didn't have any paint problems w/ nu-calgon.It did't remove the paint or the gunk from an atom. that I soaked 3 days @ full strength. Save your money.

 

[mpetva]

How about using something like this:

h t t p://w w w. espressozone.com/4073-1.html
Urnex Cleancaf is formulated for regular cleaning and descaling of home drip coffee makers and espresso machines. This citrus based cleaner dissolves mineral, lime scale and coffee oil build-up

or this one:
h t t p : / /
ourcoffeebarn.com/estore/product_info.php?products_id=260

or this
h t t p: / / w w w.espressozone.com/4781-1.html

more:
w w w. planetappliance.com/suciacwpotcl.html
SAFE: Non-toxic, biodegradable and edible as food additive or flavoring
DISPOSABLE: Simply pour down drain
EFFECTIVE: Easily removes mineral, scale build-up and hard water stains
ECONOMICAL: Extends the life and performance of your appliance
PERFORMANCE: Clean pot (or appliance) results in better tasting water and food
Do not use on aluminum
Safe and effective cleaner for removing mineral and scale build-up in Hot Water Pots and other kitchen appliances.

w w w. cvcoffee.com. Squeak n Clean Coffee Pot Cleaner


Many other cleaners for drip coffee makers out there. I am jsut trying to think of alternatives that are also food safe. Most of them contain acid to disolve minerals etc.

 

[crazyhorse]

CrazyHourse--I can report that that on the many occations I have done this experiment with Nu-Calgon--I have never had any paint come off any of the atomizers-----Sun

Hi Sun,

Here they are. Two metallic blue 801 atomizers that were placed in identical individual test tubes of undiluted Nu-Calgon for a period of several hours. Both tubes were identically filled to submerge the atomizers when standing in a rack. These are new atomizers, less than three weeks in house and each with approximately 1½ weeks of usage.

The one on the left appears to be burned in a fire. It was not. The appearance after treatment is so radically different they appear to be made of a different metal. They are not. They are identical SLB atomizers and both are date stamped 20080311.

My guess is the phosphoric acid reacted with the "metallic" paint. Why each atomizer, with identical treatment, came out with a radically different appearance, is anybody's guess.

 

[kinabaloo]

Yes, most probably because the paint is a metallic paint. Good point. New warning !

 

[crazyhorse]

The solution to this paint problem is obviously disassembling the atomizer. I did this quite accidentally to a new atomizer when screwing it (tightly) onto a phone jack/mod box. The entire outer casing came right off in my fingers.

Big plus to this... now I can actually see the coil and know what y'all are talking about. Another plus, once disassembled, only a milliliter or so of fluid will be needed to soak the coil soak in a test tube.

A minus is (after seeing the actual construction of these things) I'm seriously wondering how you would ever completely remove all the Nu-Calgon from it. Especially if it remains within the casing.

 

[RickB]

Has anyone tried Beer/Soda line cleaner or PBW?

Here is a description of PBW which was originally developed by Coors Brewing.

P.B.W. is a buffered alkaline detergent that has been proven to be more than an
effective substitute for caustic soda cleaners. Because of its unique formulation of
buffers and mild alkalis, it is safe on skin as well as soft metals such as stainless steel,
aluminum, and on plastics. P.B.W. uses active oxygen to penetrate carbon or protein
soils and is not effected by hard water. The oxygen also helps in reducing B.O.D. and
C.O.D. in wastewater, which is an added environmental benefit.
P.B.W. has been formulated as a C.I.P. cleaner and is very effective in removing protein
soils found on brew kettles, fermenters, conditioning tanks, filters and all packaging
areas. The concentrations to remove these soils are typically in the 1% range.
However, due to soil and water conditions this concentration will vary. To help in hard
water areas P.B.W. has been formulated with enough chelators to tolerate hard water
over 17 grains.
P.B.W. is an excellent choice as a soak cleaner because it does not require
excessive heat as do most caustic based cleaners. This product has cleaned
brass and copper filters, and industrial aluminum surfaces successfully.


I've been using it for cleaning homebrew equipment for a couple of years.
Going by the general thinking that if it's safe enough to be used for cleaning bottles and
other sundries that come into contact with consumable liquids. I would think that
with a good rinse and maybe a soak in some fresh clean water after the initial soak to remove the deposits that it should safe. The benefit is that it can be found in any local homebrew shop or online fairly cheap.

 

[exogenesis]

....
A minus is (after seeing the actual construction of these things) I'm seriously wondering how you would ever completely remove all the Nu-Calgon from it. Especially if it remains within the casing.

My feelings exactly, the retention ability of the that metal mesh
is quite amazing.

Will be doing some tests soon to show how well/badly simple water
flushing actually removes anything that the coil was immersed in.
(whether e-liquid or strong phos.acid).

 

[exogenesis]

PBW safety data sheet:

http://www.fivestarchemicals.com/msds/pbw.pdf

Is that the right one ?
it doesn't list percarbonates which would be the 'active oxygen' bit.

Metalsilicates again, a little worrying, but how much so?

I'm guessing it's not up to cleaning anything off a heavily carbon-gunked
atomizer coil/wick,
but might be useful as a 'regular' cleaner - as long as it can be flushed out completely.

 

[Princessdee]

Hubby has tried everything and can not get a 901 atomizer (intact)

It seems the threads are recessed inside the outer case a tiny bit and he can't grab them with vise-grips and trying to over-screw it to a battery didn't loosen it up.

Any ideas?

TIA ! dee

 

[crazyhorse]

I can't tell you anything about a 901 atomizer but I can tell you there are no threads securing the outer casing of a 801. There is a knurl at the bottom end and otherwise, it's only secured by some sort of white glue.

Edit: All 801 atomizers are not glued equally. The safest way to separate the atomizer from the outer casing appears to be pushing the inner casing out from the top with an appropriate instrument. If you try to separate them externally, you have an equal opportunity to separate them where you don't want them to separate and then you'll have to re-solder the coil wires.

 

[Princessdee]

Thanks.
Found it here:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/tips-tricks/11449-how-ecig-works.html#post201676

And here:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/atomizer-mods/13074-atomizer-disection-re-assembly.html

Cool threads

 

[Sun Vaporer]

Hubby has tried everything and can not get a 901 atomizer (intact)

It seems the threads are recessed inside the outer case a tiny bit and he can't grab them with vise-grips and trying to over-screw it to a battery didn't loosen it up.

Any ideas?

TIA ! dee

Princess--take an awe or thin nail and put it in the middle hole of the atomizer threading and pull out--the threading is press fitted--there is no glue---that is why it is important not to tighten down the batteries when you screw them on----Sun

 

[Princessdee]

Yeah, he got it with a straightened paper clip

 

[busted7]

Alright, so I've spent the better part of the last two evenings reading through this entire thread. Upon reading, some things have stood out:
1: weak acids - mixed results/don't work.
2: strong acids - mixed results/don't work.
3: weak bases - mixed results/don't work.
4: strong bases - mixed results/don't work.

I may be wrong here, but I think we've established that we need a non-polar solvent to clean the deposits. My guess is that the carbons we're dealing with are long chain, non-polar organic compounds. Sorta like how oil and water don't mix, polar and non-polar compounds don't mix. Like dissolves like... and the like.

Maybe I'm wrong, but it seems to me the only true non-polar solvent anyone has tried is acetone, and it's a no-go because it dissolves the plastic bits. So what is non-polar that isn't as nasty a solvent as acetone? (Real question, I don't remember too much else from organic chem)

 

[kinabaloo]

Alright, so I've spent the better part of the last two evenings reading through this entire thread. Upon reading, some things have stood out:
1: weak acids - mixed results/don't work.
2: strong acids - mixed results/don't work.
3: weak bases - mixed results/don't work.
4: strong bases - mixed results/don't work.

I may be wrong here, but I think we've established that we need a non-polar solvent to clean the deposits. My guess is that the carbons we're dealing with are long chain, non-polar organic compounds. Sorta like how oil and water don't mix, polar and non-polar compounds don't mix. Like dissolves like... and the like.

Maybe I'm wrong, but it seems to me the only true non-polar solvent anyone has tried is acetone, and it's a no-go because it dissolves the plastic bits. So what is non-polar that isn't as nasty a solvent as acetone? (Real question, I don't remember too much else from organic chem)

Heat degraded, so all kinds of fragments, possibly with haphazard cross-bonding; over time, mostly amorphous carbon, perhaps bonded with high temperature resins. Might get some surfactant leverage, othewise very little chance of dissolving it, I'd say.

But don't want to put you off from trying. It would amaze everyone if you came up with a simple and consistent answer - is that any encouragement?