The “Cola” Method Taken to Another Level That Works

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jkimlb

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May 11, 2009
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New to these forums, but been reading since i got my first m401 last month. I have not had time to read everything yet due to finals starting in school. but just wanted to know. Does it work? nu calgon stuff cleaning atomizers i mean. I dont really mind having messed up paint since my atomizer is gonna be hidden away in the janty stick and my 401 the only part of the atomizer you see is the thin strip between the cart and the battery.

I just want to be able to preserve the life of my atomizer as long.

thanks
 

crazyhorse

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Apr 17, 2009
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Does it work? nu calgon stuff cleaning atomizers i mean.

I'm not very impressed. See below a picture of a small, white dessert bowl containing collected goop extracted from an 801 atomizer with a week of use. This goop was not extracted with nu-calgon. This goop was extracted by a boil in water followed by an alcohol soak followed by another boil in water.

This goop was leftover after a several hour soak in nu-calgon which did very little but strip the paint off the atomizer casing.
 

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mumrarj

Full Member
Jun 3, 2009
5
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Montana
Alright this thread has been dormant for a bit: Lets hope I can revive it.
Background:
I Got my Janty Kissbox kit in the mail on Thursday, June 18th. I did all the necessary charging and hooked up one of the included carts. Great vapor using any combination of switch/battery/usb passthrough.

This held true for the first 2.5 carts of the included 5. After that vapor production seemed to decline, to the point that I can only get semi-decent (reasonable cloud, small throat hit) hit when using the manual switch for about 7 seconds. Much longer than the original, and the auto switch is being pathetic.

First cleaning method tried:

Rinsing with hot tap water, and then drying with hairdryer. After priming, vapor production unchanged (not worse, or better).

I am now refilling (and priming) with JC PG smoke juice.

Second Method tried:

Soaking in hot water (~15 min), drying with hairdryer, priming.
Vapor production unchanged.

Current Method:
Diet Coke bath, is soaking right now, I will stop soaking no sooner than eight hours. I plan on rinsing with hot water, blow drying, priming. Will post results.

Next Method (If Diet Coke bath fails):
Will try filling atomizer with baking soda, and putting in glass of vinegar, maybe bubbling will be more effective.

Some info to keep in mind about my atomizer:
It is not dead (still feel it heating the outer casing of the atomizer), just noticibly underperforming (espcially with the more convienent auto switch).

While the atomizer was performing well, I noticed that a white film (spotted not even) had developed around the walls of my atomizer, no idea what it is (cart plastic is all I can think of) and it will not scrape off (using the end of a jewelers screwdriver well away from the core of the atomizer), I can only assume that some of that is also in the atty mesh, but I can't say that for sure).

I am going to stay awy from the more powerful solvents, primarily because I don't think the risks of vaping some of that stuff that we don't (can't) wash away, is more costly than a new $20 atomizer. I may give up esmoking if atomizer problems remain unpreventable/unsolveable.

Wish me luck,
mumrarj
 

Sun Vaporer

Moved On
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Jan 2, 2009
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I am going to stay awy from the more powerful solvents, primarily because I don't think the risks of vaping some of that stuff that we don't (can't) wash away, is more costly than a new $20 atomizer. I may give up esmoking if atomizer problems remain unpreventable/unsolveable.

Wish me luck,
mumrarj

Mumrarj---that is a good idea ---as this was an experiment--a sucessful one, but to dangerous for the mainstream and not we do not advocat it---Sun
 

mumrarj

Full Member
Jun 3, 2009
5
0
Montana
Update on Diet Coke bath,
Well the atomizer still works, but I have seen no real improvement on performance. Sine I expect a brand new atomizer on Thursday, I may see if I can take this one apart.

I will so that the cola bath did not seem to clean the atty up at all, and at this point I'm not sure anything will.

Any suggestions on taking a Kissbox atty apart?
The Janty Kissbox atty is actually the widest part of the cig, with the heating elmement inside a (relatively) large cylinder on the brass fitting end (opposite where the removeable mouthpiece is). Looking inside it I think I see some crud, sitting below the cone shaped piece of mesh. I don't know if that is my problem, but it can't be helping.

I may not take it apart. I need to see if Janty will send me a new one, it is definitely under warranty, but is not completely dead either, just really underperforming. If they won't send me a new one (In an exchange for the old one I assume) I will try the baking soda and vinegar bath, and then take it apart.

Somewhat frustrated (and back to analogs for the moment),
mumrarj
 

mumrarj

Full Member
Jun 3, 2009
5
0
Montana
Yet another update.
I moved some of the crud in the bottom of my atty around (still can't get it out) with the end of a paper clip, and low and behold it was covering two holes leading to the bottom of the atty. I got one of them un covered and my vapor production has improved. If only I could find a way to get the crud out, I think my atty would be fine. The pointy end of a paper clip is the only thing that I can control enough to move it where I need it, but it wont let me lift the stuff out, any ideas?
mumrarj
 

mumrarj

Full Member
Jun 3, 2009
5
0
Montana
Yet one more update,
It seems clearing the gunk really helped. I wish I could get it out but my vapor production is usable, but not yet fully restored. I may try boiling in water for a half hour and see if that will loosen things, but I am also at the point where I don't want to mess with it anymore fearing it might stop working altogether.
mumrarj
 

DC2

Tootie Puffer
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Jun 21, 2009
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Holy smokes Batman!!

I have started reading this thread, and have gone through three pages so far.
Now I am wondering if there is a Cliff Notes version available.

Yes, I will read this entire thread if I absolutely must.
But can anyone provide a summary of where this whole thing stands?

If not, I understand, sometimes you just have to put in the effort to reap the benefits.
:)
 

StoneE4

Full Member
ECF Veteran
Mar 20, 2009
65
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Chicago
Holy smokes Batman!!

I have started reading this thread, and have gone through three pages so far.
Now I am wondering if there is a Cliff Notes version available...

Basically, like most other products people have tried, some people say the NuCalgon IMC works and others don't see much benefit. According to some, it doesn't seem to work much better than the more readily available products like alcohol, hydrogen peroxide, coke, etc.

The big thing is that this is a pretty high concentration of acid in its undiluted form and care has to be taken when handling it and you must be certain that it is completely washed out of the atomizer before use.

I know that's kind of a wishy-washy answer, but I'd say that's the basic gist of this thread... Some swear by it, some don't... Be careful if you decide to use it.
 

DC2

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Jun 21, 2009
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I'm guessing other people would have a different summarized version of this thread.
That is to be expected, as it all depends on what we want and what we feel like doing.

But right now I'm thinking the simple Coke Soak method might be a great preventative measure.
Maybe once every week or maybe two.

But then again, I haven't read the last 12 pages of this thread yet.
So I may very well be missing something that tells me how stupid my thoughts are.
:D

Thanks for replying though, it is nice to have a summary once in awhile on a long thread like this.
:thumbs:
 

Sun Vaporer

Moved On
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Jan 2, 2009
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Dead--just remember that this was an experiment looking for any solvent that would remove the residual. The solution has a 70% phosphoric acid ratio where Coke is at 2-3%--so there is no comparision. The product is dangerous to work with if you are not careful and no one knows if the residue of this solvent clears completely from the atomizer.

Again it was not posted for the mainstream by any means and was just an experiment.---------Sun
 

kgonepostl

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Feb 26, 2009
392
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Dead--just remember that this was an experiment looking for any solvent that would remove the residual. The solution has a 70% phosphoric acid ratio where Coke is at 2-3%--so there is no comparision. The product is dangerous to work with if you are not careful and no one knows if the residue of this solvent clears completely from the atomizer.

Again it was not posted for the mainstream by any means and was just an experiment.---------Sun

Dead meaning it doesn't work?
 
I have not read all 51 pages, so this may be repeated info. I used to buy naval jelly for rust removal - it is also phosphoric acid. I don't know what else is in it, or the concentration. Walmart used to carry it, and it is still on Ace Hardware's website. Just an FYI. I have not used it in 25 years - but it worked great for removing rust.
 

crazyhorse

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Apr 17, 2009
575
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Baja Alabama
In my experience, phosphoric acid etches/burns stainless steel and will blow the metallic paint off DSE atomizers in no time flat. Worse, it takes an act of Congress to get it out of the metal foam.

On the plus side, the ice machine cleaner is a wonderful thing to use as a flux for soldering stainless with low temp (430° F) 4% silver. Works like a champ.
 

kgonepostl

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Feb 26, 2009
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So what is it about pop that is supposably killing atomizers?
I assume it's due to not being cleaned properly after the "acid bath"
However, for those who currently have a pepsi in the fridge and canned air at their disposal, couldn't this be avoided by the following steps

1.) acid bath the atonmizer an hour
2.) Wash out the atomizer with hot water thoroughly
3.) Use canned air 5-7 strong bursts to clear out the atomizer

I don't see how that couldn't work for the guy who just has the pepsi. I'm not saying it's better but I know it's the buildup of the other crap in the pop but how is that not a remedy to NOT killing your atomizer!?
 
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