The BF experiment

[elscorcho]

Ya, like where were you a month ago Music? ...lol...this insulator modding has made bf'ing rda's accessible to everyone

good job

+1

Guess I can take mine out of the garbage now!

Well done!

 

[Quigsworth]

...Is it possible to drill out a TiN bit using a cobalt bit? Any help is appreciated, I figured some of y'all might have had this happen and come up with a solution.

Sorry to say you're pretty much screwed at that point...you can try to drill it from the other end but I've never been successful doing that...drive the post out and slot it (and get your drill bit back)

 

[Chowderhead1972]

If the bit broke midway through you are finished. If the bit snapped as you were breaking through you may be able to drive it through and re-drill after the broken piece is removed. I have had both happen.

 

[Jeffk123]

How did you end up warping the 510 connection? Was it on a Trident or Atomic? Did you try drilling all the way down through the 510 connector? Trying to picture it, but after modding mine its the only thing I can think of... I had no problem with the Trident and the #65 bit. I used a #60 on the Atomic and had no problems with it either...

It was the quasar the center pin is so dang close the outer edge of the 510 the #65 was to big. Dont ask me how it ended up getting warped I drilled through next thing it wont thread on anything but I never acctually touched the threads. Strange

 

[muzichead]

It was the quasar the center pin is so dang close the outer edge of the 510 the #65 was to big. Dont ask me how it ended up getting warped I drilled through next thing it wont thread on anything but I never acctually touched the threads. Strange

Not real familiar with the Quasar. Were you drilling top to bottom or bottom to top? Sounds like you may have created too much heat. I would think it should be drilled top to bottom with the bottom pin out of it and only the top part of the post in it, (if that makes sense), as it looks a little tight down on the bottom side. The thing I have found useful is you have to take it real slow in drilling the insulators because they are made out of cross-linked polyethylene or something very similar and are very hard and rigid. They are very abrasive and can create a lot of heat around a bit. Sorry to hear it didn't go so well and hope you can salvage it.

 

[Jeffk123]

Not real familiar with the Quasar. Were you drilling top to bottom or bottom to top? Sounds like you may have created too much heat. I would think it should be drilled top to bottom with the bottom pin out of it and only the top part of the post in it, (if that makes sense), as it looks a little tight down on the bottom side. The thing I have found useful is you have to take it real slow in drilling the insulators because they are made out of cross-linked polyethylene or something very similar and are very hard and rigid. They are very abrasive and can create a lot of heat around a bit. Sorry to hear it didn't go so well and hope you can salvage it.

it was bottom to top but after quigsworth posted about notching the insulater with the pin out I realised I had a stainless cable saw used for cutting plastic pipe that I could have used instead to make a nice little notch on two sides live and learn im not to upset I still have the rm2 so im happy. I will prob buy a new one and a magma once I got extra scratch.

 

[SLIPPY_EEL]

regards the broken drill bit in the hole, this happened to me on the atomic, i guess i got lucky with the way it broke but i grabbed the smallest precision screwdriver i had and managed to dislodge it by twisted the ps in the hole(unscrewing), turned it upside down and it came out after a few bangs on the kitchen side..

i suppose if ones at a loss with a jammed drillbit in the rba then it wouldnt hurt to try a hammer, or a hammer and a nail or similar, sledge hammer


it might just come out like mine did if you break whatever is left sticking out of the hole

 

[SLIPPY_EEL]

a little off topic here, but i just want to comment on the size of the post screws in the magma, they are ginormous, i bought some replacement's for the clone which were M3x4, it's not like the hole's where you put your wire into were drilled out nice and big for fat wire, surely any gain from thcker post's is hardly worth the hassle!?

 

[Blitzdonlife]

Thanks for the feedback on my problem all. I tried to drive the bit out with a hammer and nails, after I bent my sixth nail I decided to stop before I threw something across the room, lol. I think I will try to slot it with the dremel first, then try to 'finesse' it out with the hammer and nail again. Pretty sure I am going to need to make a new insulator, i fried it and the post spins now. What is a pretty safe silicone I could use for the job, aquarium silicone? Would that handle the heat from an atomizer, or is there a better product for this purpose?

 

[The Yeti]

Damn you guys! I just ordered a new non-LP Grand (will be here tomorrow) but now I want an LP so I can start modding!

May just return the one I'm getting tomorrow.

 

[Dconnor]

Wondering if anyone has modded the magma by drilling holes in the insulator ala the latest quigsworth atomic mod? Got the clone en route. Will report back with my success or failure with this method (its really my only option given my lack of skill and tools...).

Speaking of, I am really curious to try something with bottom airflow again. All of these current drippers are great, but essentially the same, 2 or 3 posts and side air flow. I remember using an a6(?) early on an liked the bottom air flow, had a totally different quality to the vape, but not liking the juice using the same path, made for a weird draw and gurgling. I like this if it works because it will have separate paths for juice and air.

Do not try to drill the insulator. Tried it yesterday and mangled it. Ended up having to do some major surgery but was able to fix it.

If you drill the insulator, you will hit the bottom of the "foot" on the positive post. I ended up being able to carefully slot the 510 pin with my Dremel, make a new insulator and get it working. At this point in the process I had accepted that I had ruined it, and so didn't really matter if it worked or not.

Wicked with 28ga twisted on a 5/64 at .9 ohms (got carried away with coil size as there was slot of room) and rayon wick.

Love the vape and from the outside the juice oath really doesn't matter. If I was doing again, would definitely drill the pin from the outside. I was lucky because it is easy to mangle the insulator ( second one) that is around the foot of the positive pin.

 

[garpt01]

Wondering if anyone has modded the magma by drilling holes in the insulator ala the latest quigsworth atomic mod? Got the clone en route. Will report back with my success or failure with this method (its really my only option given my lack of skill and tools...).

I've been asking this question re: the Magma in three threads now. Haven't heard yet from anyone successfully modding this RDA for the Reo's. I think this is an excellent RDA for the Reo, especially since
* The top cap screws on, preventing the AFC from moving off line when traveling
* Deep well suppresses any leakage very well.
* Great taste (IMO) and "cooler" vape- with lower chance of dry hits-which I like due to the ability to keep the wick ends quite moist.

hildicat, I look forward to your reporting back on your hopeful success. I tried a couple of times, but the center post screw is VERY difficult to drill out, and there is very little space to drill out holes in the thin insulator. I'm going to try replacing the center post next with a different style..

 

[Quigsworth]

The Magma has been done...Slippy eel (at least he has one, I can't say he modded it), gdeal and I did one...see:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/reos-mods/566507-bf-experiment-29.html

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/reos-mods/568740-iron-lung-reonauts-sub-ohm-15.html

...you have to drill the center pin, with this particular RDA I don't think you can do an insulator mod, there just isn't enough of it...drilling the pin isn't hard to do but a pretty high degree of precision is required...I used my typical #57 HSS on my drill press, I didn't mention that on this drill press I have a Proxxon X-Y table attached...the X-Y table isn't super necessary but to be able to make very tiny adjustments to hole shot it does make it easier...I think you'd be really hard pressed to do it by hand but hey, never say never...

 

[FACE MEAT]

Thanks for the feedback on my problem all. I tried to drive the bit out with a hammer and nails, after I bent my sixth nail I decided to stop before I threw something across the room, lol. I think I will try to slot it with the dremel first, then try to 'finesse' it out with the hammer and nail again. Pretty sure I am going to need to make a new insulator, i fried it and the post spins now. What is a pretty safe silicone I could use for the job, aquarium silicone? Would that handle the heat from an atomizer, or is there a better product for this purpose?

Assuming the insulator is of the common variety, silicone and delrin replacements can be found. I have a few laying around. I think I got them from Kidney Puncher. I think these are them: AGA Series Positive Post Insulators - 10 pack - Kidney Puncher

 

[Raynman]

Ok, so the Trident came in today and after about 30 minutes of looking at the post assembly after I took it apart and it dawned on all of a sudden. Man, that 30 years selling fasteners for a living kind of came back to haunt me for a bit!! They actually used a stepped down spacer or flanged bushing in it. This was probably for a few reasons, but don't need to get into all that. Once I figured out what it was it was relatively easy to mod. It received a few scratches along the way, but none of them affect the vape at all!!!

With the top post in place I drilled the insulator from the top side down to the step using the post to help guide the bit. Removed the top post and then drilled down through the step, out the bottom side. It didn't actually drill much from the sidewalls as the bottom side of the insulator is still a solid piece. I used the side of the drill bit to make a small channel the rest of the way down to the end of the 510 connector. As it turns out it actually made channels in both sides if the inside of the insulator. Pretty cool... I used an exacto knife to clean up most of the burrs that the drill bit left behind. I put the copper screw back in and tightened it all back down and then adjusted the screw slightly to where you can see the channels through the slots on the screw head. Squonks and drains very well. Here's some pics of it prior to cleaning it all up with the exacto knife. I will try to post some cleaned up pics later on. Wanted to get my vape on!!!
View attachment 350239 View attachment 350240 View attachment 350241 View attachment 350243 View attachment 350242

Forgot to add, I used a #65 drill bit for this project...

I like the looks of this one. I just picked up a Trident and was looking to mod it for BF. I don't have a 65 bit (only go to 60 in my set) so I was thinking of using my exacto saw. I think it should fit inside and leave a wide enough opening with the saw kerf. How did you remove the top half of the center pin?

 

[Quigsworth]

...How did you remove the top half of the center pin?

It's just pressed in...it'll just tap out.

 

[Raynman]

Do I need to use an Arm Bar, Guillotine, Rear Naked Choke, or Kimura to get it to tap out......Sorry I had to go there when I saw tap out.

 

[muzichead]

Just leave the bottom post screwed in a little and gently tap it out with a hammer. The Exacto saw will probably work. You will never know until you try. Did you get the Infinite version?

 

[Raynman]

Not sure what the Infinite version is I did get the Trident V2 with the removable AFC. The Exacto saw I'll be using goes down to a fine point. I got it for pumpkin carving. I never use it for that.

ETA My Trident has a backwards E in the lettering I'm sure it's a cheap clone although I don't know witch one.

 

[The Yeti]

So, I got an EHPro Atomic on the way....can someone post the best way to drill out the insulator (drill bit size, how many holes, etc.)?

Thanks!