The BF experiment
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Hildicat, first, sorry I didn't have the time to help you out...
the pin presses out from the top down...the pin is really in there, I use a press but a "C" clamp or vise will also work...I've heard of peeps soaking in boiling water for a bit to loosen things up, sure, maybe, never done it...
Notching the insulator would work, may work quite well actually, I though of using a decent sized needle in some vise grips and hold it over a flame and then melt slots into the insulator, you'll have to do some clean up after but that would be super easy...
and to make it even easier for some...if you can find a pin-vise jewelers drill set (hobby shop?) you could in theory drill down through the insulator (one on either side of the pin, duals?) right down to the bottom of the 510...could take some time but very doable...no drill press, no removing the pin...just a thought.
and ya, the screws are close together...if you have a hand drill and a small file, take out the center screw, chuck it thread end into the drill (lightly) and hold the file to the screw head while the drill spins...there's lots of meat there where you won't wreak the screw (in fact if you have a good time doing that, do all 3, lol)...and one last step before you put the screws back in...file the screw ends flat...they are coil leg cutters.
the pin presses out from the top down...the pin is really in there, I use a press but a "C" clamp or vise will also work...I've heard of peeps soaking in boiling water for a bit to loosen things up, sure, maybe, never done it...
Notching the insulator would work, may work quite well actually, I though of using a decent sized needle in some vise grips and hold it over a flame and then melt slots into the insulator, you'll have to do some clean up after but that would be super easy...
and to make it even easier for some...if you can find a pin-vise jewelers drill set (hobby shop?) you could in theory drill down through the insulator (one on either side of the pin, duals?) right down to the bottom of the 510...could take some time but very doable...no drill press, no removing the pin...just a thought.
and ya, the screws are close together...if you have a hand drill and a small file, take out the center screw, chuck it thread end into the drill (lightly) and hold the file to the screw head while the drill spins...there's lots of meat there where you won't wreak the screw (in fact if you have a good time doing that, do all 3, lol)...and one last step before you put the screws back in...file the screw ends flat...they are coil leg cutters.
In fact, the more I think about it...I have 2 more Atomics coming sooo....seeing as I have a pin-vice jewelers drill set (which has a bit just slightly smaller than the thickness of the insulator) I'm going to try that...if it works (and I don't see why it wouldn't) that would be awesome, anybody with any skill-set could do this at their kitchen table
I have this one, and I remember now, I got it from Lee Valley tools, I think I paid $15...super useful tool.
http://www.micro-machine-shop.com/pin_vise_3.jpg
I have this one, and I remember now, I got it from Lee Valley tools, I think I paid $15...super useful tool.
http://www.micro-machine-shop.com/pin_vise_3.jpg
Has any one figured out what screws are in the atomic? My semi-educated guess would be 2.5mm. I would love to find set screws to replace these Philips screws.
I have tried all of my left over screws from my RC days... I have concluded it is either m2.5x 0.45x length or sae 4-40, being made in a Chinese factory my bet is 2.5mm@0.45 pitch. I think I am going to order these:Stainless Metric Socket Set Screw 25 2 5mm x 45x5mm | eBay
Success! Got some very small drill bits from my local harbor freight, chucked the right sized one (?) in my rotary tool and drilled two small holes right through the insulator. Squonks effortlessly and drains perfectly. Also opened up the wire holes and gound down the center screw to insure clearance. Easiest modding I've ever done. Thanks for the great suggestion quigs!
That's awesome, Hildi for the win!...suggesting an idea and actually doing it are 2 different things, the guy who does it gets the credit 
edit: guy "or" gal...don't want to get a beat down
edit: guy "or" gal...don't want to get a beat down
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Five different drippers drilled out for fat wires and modified for BF today.
The IGO-L didn't have wire holes in the posts.
Took the center post out of an IGO-L with a badly broken insulator to put the V6 back in service after breaking 2 bits off inside its original post. Note to self ... don't drill the wire hole below where the screw will reach ... lucky enough to find a longer one!
Guess it's time to vape now
The IGO-L didn't have wire holes in the posts.
Took the center post out of an IGO-L with a badly broken insulator to put the V6 back in service after breaking 2 bits off inside its original post. Note to self ... don't drill the wire hole below where the screw will reach ... lucky enough to find a longer one!
Guess it's time to vape now
Sorry, too anxious to take pix at the time, but will get some when I re-build it.
Just so I can wrap my head around what you did...you ran 2 holes down the insulator material parallel with the center post (one on each side) until they popped out at the bottom of the 510?
I would imagine you would start out at which ever side of the post would be best to saturate the wick and coil. For instance on the Cyclone it would be inline with the wire capture holes, front and back, if that makes sense to you...
Close, I was aiming for the holes to emerge on either side of the wire holes, but I missed them a bit. Still have juice flooding each side of the deck. Probably could have drilled from either side but felt I had more room to drill straighter if I went from the bottom.
I get that...but there really isn't a whole lot of area the bit could drift to and sometimes there's a pretty tight tolerance between the center pin bottom and the outer edge, plus if you think about it...where do you want your accuracy, the deck holes or where they end up at the conn. end?, who cares about location at the conn. end, as long as they get there right?...I was just looking at my RDA collection, ERA's, iGo's, Nimby's, Patriot, Trident...they could've all been done using this method...this could be a silver bullet for a lot of peeps...again, well done Hildi!
Picked up an EHPro Atomic to mod to a bf (thanks to Quigsworth and others for all the tips). Marked the insulator where I wanted the feed channel and sprayed the deck with WD40. Pressed out the center post with a drill press. The post was super tight. Cut an channel with a dremel bit and finished it with a red hot precision screwdriver. Aligned the center post wire feed hole and pressed back in. In total took less than 15 minutes and was very easy.
It feeds and drains perfectly. Built duals at 0.76 ohms with Ready x Wick messing with different air feed combos. Liking it so far. Machining fit and finish very nice especially for such an inexpensive atty. Perfect fit for an LP Grand.
It feeds and drains perfectly. Built duals at 0.76 ohms with Ready x Wick messing with different air feed combos. Liking it so far. Machining fit and finish very nice especially for such an inexpensive atty. Perfect fit for an LP Grand.
Those pins are in tight eh?...2-3 times I've heard a quite audible "snap" while pressing them out, the first time freaked me right out, like what the hell was that?
I seem to recall someone brought up the Trident earlier. Has anyone converted a Trident to a BF?
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