Contact BBV & ask if they sell a replacement board for the Up,Down?
Or better yet if you could send it in for repair? If Not, Maybe they will send you the part & you could just repair it
~The Billet Box~ page 1559 continued...
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Contact BBV & ask if they sell a replacement board for the Up,Down?
Or better yet if you could send it in for repair? If Not, Maybe they will send you the part & you could just repair it
Please report back after speaking with them. Whatever way it turns out.
Contact BBV & ask if they sell a replacement board for the Up,Down?
Or better yet if you could send it in for repair? If Not, Maybe they will send you the part & you could just repair it
I called and left a message yesterday afternoon and sent a message on Facebook earlier today. I hope they can just send me one. My BB is the only thing I have anymore; I don't want to send it in for repair.
Will do!
Does anyone know where to get an UNO? I'm chasing the MTL hit and am tired of the inconsistency of prebuilt coils. Plus, I want to make my own
I’d hold out for the VapeShell.
All the MTL’ers I know have been enjoying it!
Make sure to get the alternate inserts, as the stock ones may not reduce the airflow enough...depending on your tastes.
Personal observational trivia ...
I have several original full size Aspire Nautilus tanks. That tank is/was/still is a very popular MTL tank. Interestingly, the ring selectable air flow sizes on the Nautilus tank are .9mm, 1.1mm, 1.4mm and 1.8mm
Bear with me here. The VapeShell MTL inserts available add-ons at extra cost are 1mm, 1.2mm and 1.5mm.
The standard VapeShell inserts that come with the VapeShell are 2mm, 2.5mm, 3mm and 3.5mm. Without an airflow insert, the VapeShell will have 4mm airflow.
My point? ... If you've ever used a Nautilus tank, this information may give you some idea if you need the VapeShell MTL inserts or not. For instance, my preferred setting on the Nautilus is the largest airflow setting at 1.8mm. BUT ... the largest VapeShell MTL insert is only 1.5mm, which is slightly smaller than the largest Nautilus setting.
For my use, I found the largest VapeShell MTL insert @ 1.5mm to be slightly too restrictive. Therefore, I run the VapeShell with the SMALLEST STANDARD insert @ 2mm. It is only slightly larger than the largest airflow hole in the Nautilus which is 1.8mm. For my inhale technique which honestly is a combination of DL & MTL, I didn't actually need the VapeShell MTL inserts ... but still glad I have them
Damn!
VapeShell 3rd batch delays
3rd batch VapeShell release is behind schedule by quite some days due to unforeseen reasons - we can't get any unluckier than this Hopefully the delay won't be more than 10-15 days. Unfortunately no precise ETA until we resolve the issue we are encountering. Apologies for keeping you wait!
VapeShell 3rd batch delays
3rd batch VapeShell release is behind schedule by quite some days due to unforeseen reasons - we can't get any unluckier than this
Hopefully the delay won't be more than 10-15 days. Unfortunately no precise ETA until we resolve the issue we are encountering. Apologies for keeping you wait!When I was waiting for the second release, the wait was well past the expected available date. Delays seem to be the rule rather than the exception. Thankfully shipping was super fast considering distance and customs to a foreign country once available.
Damn!
VapeShell 3rd batch delays
3rd batch VapeShell release is behind schedule by quite some days due to unforeseen reasons - we can't get any unluckier than this
Knowing how Atmizoo works, the delay is very likely something that prevents the batch from being as close to their simple perfection as possible.
They really do strive to make the absolute best for their customers, and I’ve always admired their transparency in the process.
Yeah their DHL shipping is something I have only enjoyed from one other site...InTaste.
Love that flat rate price too.
The VapeShell is definitely worth the wait, I managed to snag one from Vapes by Enushi after the second run was released. It's breathed new life into my BB. Wanted to switch it up after months and months of running an insider and it was just what the vape doctor ordered.
Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
Well hey...based on your word, I picked up a KHW Dvarw 3.5ml version
Running it without the airflow insert (so 3.0mm airflow?)
Love it.
0.5ohm - 25watts
Huzzah!
Glad to hear I didn't let you down!
I've been absolutely loving the Dvarw, been using it non-stop since it arrived. It's a faboulous, and super simple, RTA. Just really liking the overall package of that atty, really happy I took the plunge!
I put a whole bottle of Buttermilk Pie through the Dvarw in the first few days (really yummy juice BTW).
Not just ten minutes ago I finally put it down to rebuild the VapeShell
>segue.jpg
Wound up throwing in a 2.5mm Clapton, which came out to about .80ohms. 22.5watts, and hot damn, I'm glad this thread reminded about the BB I had forgotten about since the arrival of the Dvarw.
I loaded her up with some Skippermilk Pie (the cute half-sister of Buttermilk Pie, she just also happens to be a peanut butter fan). Fabulous!
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Awh man trust me and do yourself the favor of picking one up. Im genuinely in love with mine lmfao..I was wondering the same thing about the 25s Unc. I mean there's a down button on the 40s.
With having my car biting the dust it's going to be even more time before I get a rev 4. If they even still make them then.
My dream Machine.
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I think several people have done it.
Although I recall seeing that it means taking the Box apart in a one, or a few, ways...and if I remember correctly some soldering was involved...
In other words: It ain’t easy...at least not for some!
Right now, only way ...
Order USB charge/data board from Evolv
Solder leads to USB board
Break seal on Billet Box, void Billet Box warranty, remove screwed on panel from around fire button
VERY carefully remove display ribbon cable from DNA 60 for access to "test" points
Hook USB board leads into holes on the DNA 60 board
... oh heck, here's a tutorial. He makes it look easy. I HIGHLY recommend you DO NOT do this at home ...
Even if you get away with doing this the first time without destroying your Billet Box, it isn't permanent and you'd have to take another risky chance each and every time you want to run eScribe. That ribbon cable is especially unforgiving as well as other stuff in there where most have no business going. JMHO
EDIT: True story ... I'm retired now but for 20 years in the military, I performed electronic maintenance and repair, down to discrete component level. I destroyed a display ribbon cable and had to order a display panel and ribbon cable (can't get just the cable) from Evolv to replace in my Billet Box. DOH. But yes, eScribe did work. Oh, and the display panel on the Billet Box is not only behind a screwed on panel but held in place with like two sided tape. Extremely difficult if not impossible to remove without destroying. Been there done that. DOH
Order USB charge/data board from Evolv
Solder leads to USB board
Break seal on Billet Box, void Billet Box warranty, remove screwed on panel from around fire button
VERY carefully remove display ribbon cable from DNA 60 for access to "test" points
Hook USB board leads into holes on the DNA 60 board
... oh heck, here's a tutorial. He makes it look easy. I HIGHLY recommend you DO NOT do this at home ...
Even if you get away with doing this the first time without destroying your Billet Box, it isn't permanent and you'd have to take another risky chance each and every time you want to run eScribe. That ribbon cable is especially unforgiving as well as other stuff in there where most have no business going. JMHO
EDIT: True story ... I'm retired now but for 20 years in the military, I performed electronic maintenance and repair, down to discrete component level. I destroyed a display ribbon cable and had to order a display panel and ribbon cable (can't get just the cable) from Evolv to replace in my Billet Box. DOH. But yes, eScribe did work. Oh, and the display panel on the Billet Box is not only behind a screwed on panel but held in place with like two sided tape. Extremely difficult if not impossible to remove without destroying. Been there done that. DOH
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150% agreement. I too have experience working with small electronics. But one of my Billets was out of commission for almost 2 months after I tried to access the internals. In all honesty though I don't like doing it, I have to state that BBV never responded to any of my attempts to contact them so I had to find someone capable of the repair who I could trust to do it properly.
There is NO room to work in, at least any way I tried when I went to install the new replacement screen. The cable is secured by a flip up clamp device just like the ones used on computer ribbon cables. It's easy to release it. And it's no big problem to remove the cable from its socket. But when you try to insert the thing, you have MAYBE a couple of mm space to try and align it so it fits into the socket. And less than that in order to move it into place.
Yep while I was around and all up in there, I looked for a place to permanently mount the USB board ... there is none and no way to solder the USB board leads to the DNA 60 AND accommodate the ribbon cable anyway.
The guy I finally got to repair my Rat does some exceptional work. After seeing these, I was pretty sure he'd be able to install a new screen for me.
The jobs shown entail a complete desolder of the board wiring, and a careful milling of the billet itself to make room for the Evolv adapter. The Box retains all its stuctural integrity.
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I hadn't seen those. Thanks for sharing! With enough know how AND a well equipped shop, anything is possible I guess. Nice
i'm new to the thread, but have watched a while
it is 22.15 here, i'll be checking every half hour or so tonight until they go up
hoping for tmnbb with black button
it is 22.15 here, i'll be checking every half hour or so tonight until they go up
hoping for tmnbb with black button
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