The Darwin From Evolv!!!
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Lol! That's the same thing that happened to me when I first tried bobas. I only vape it when I drink a beer now for some reason because they go together perfectly. It is actually time to switch over to that right now because I am about to fire up the grill
In the meantime, I think you guys should watch this when you get a chance http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...vanguards-sex-lies-cigarettes-must-watch.html
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Right on retird but I think I need to call your 3.0 Ohm and go all in w/2.7.
And I'll raise you one carto.....
Lol! That's the same thing that happened to me when I first tried bobas. I only vape it when I drink a beer now for some reason because they go together perfectly. It is actually time to switch over to that right now because I am about to fire up the grill
Damn Panky if your old lady buys that you are the man!!! Hey honey get me another beer I am vaping Boba's, in fact I will be vaping Boba's for sometime so can you run out and grab 20 cases or so for me?????
In addition, and this is a personal preference, I have never liked LR attys/cartos. From my first introduction to vaping, LRs were recommended but as soon as I tried higher Ωs @ HV, I was hooked on the higher combo. Many feel that watts are watts and mathematically it is true. However, the vapor changes IMHO between - for example - 8.5 watts using LR and 8.5 watts using 3Ωs. I find that LR heats my juices too quickly and changes the flavor. I also use higher VG concentrations and VG burns at lower temps and more quickly than PG. With Darwin, SR and HR just seem to be a better option because they can run just as high watts AND they give us access to lower watts too (juices now being more complex combinations of flavors and some respond better to lower heat output levels. Try taking one of your more complex flavors and vape it at 10 watts for a few draws, then 7 watts for a few and then 8.5 watts and see what happens).
I have a pineapple milkshake juice and I generally vape it around 8.5 in a new 801 carto (see Drew's site). If I crank it up towards 10 watts, I get more pineapple flavor. if I turn it down towards 7 watts i get more Vanilla flavor. Similarly, I have a tobacco menthol juice that if I run at 10 watts I get mostly all menthol, 7 watts is mostly all tobacco and 8.5 is a very nice blend. when using LR attys/cartos, Ohms Law (and Darwin's minimum volt push) limit you to the upper range of watts. You can turn Darwin dial down but you are still vaping Ohms law as calculated based on the Ωs and the minimum volts push on the Darwin screen (use above linked calculator to test yours).
I think part of this effect is to do with the fact that higher resistance coils have more winds of the heating wire, and therefore have more surface area in contact with the juice at any given time, sometimes twice the surface area.
If you compare the coil of a 1.5 ohm LR atty, and a 4 ohm atty, huge difference in coil size!
As long as you can pump the same watts into it, the higher resistance atty/carto will produce a better vape IMHO, and is less likely to dry up mid hit like the small tightly packed LR coil will.
yea only reason i was using lr was cuz thats all i had from my egos, this one im using now is 3 ohm, with some bobas bounty, whoa... amazing, i love my darwin even more now!
im going to pick up some more attys at the b and m tomorrow
im going to pick up some more attys at the b and m tomorrow
On top of all this? Remember that all these numbers are "sort of". While it is cool to have a live readout of all this stuff (I am easily entertained), this is not lab equipment we are measuring with. Also, resistance changes with heat, and heat is all about what these things are doing. I agree, Neb, some ramp up to the temp too quick, and I can taste/see the difference.
I too, enjoy mixing the flavors on the fly. I am too lazy to 'two-hand' it while vaping, but you can get yet more interesting combinations by ramping up/down the watts in mid-hit. I shall continue to 'one-hand' it. Make up your own jokes here....
I too, enjoy mixing the flavors on the fly. I am too lazy to 'two-hand' it while vaping, but you can get yet more interesting combinations by ramping up/down the watts in mid-hit. I shall continue to 'one-hand' it. Make up your own jokes here....
Try your Boba's with Belgian beer, cuz Ski would approve.
Did you all hear that Belgians are the UN-coolest people on the planet? There was a European poll, and 30,000 people voted.
My local radio station phoned some guy in Belgium to ask him about it. The guy went on and on about chocolate (yes), lace (yes) and Duval beer (did I get that right?).
The one thing that everyone has neglected is the infamous Schipperke, one of which is my darling fur baby. Talk about UN-cool!
Did you all hear that Belgians are the UN-coolest people on the planet? There was a European poll, and 30,000 people voted.
My local radio station phoned some guy in Belgium to ask him about it. The guy went on and on about chocolate (yes), lace (yes) and Duval beer (did I get that right?).
The one thing that everyone has neglected is the infamous Schipperke, one of which is my darling fur baby. Talk about UN-cool!
Just me rambling...not sure if I'll get finished in this post but I'll give it a whirl, and maybe it'll help some understand a little better.
Yes, surface area (direct coil to juice contact) has much to do with vaping. Higher resistance coils usually have either fatter wire (diameter, but with a higher percentage of insulating material [ceramic clay just as as an example] in the metal), more wraps (length) or both Either way, that means more surface area to come in contact with liquid and turn it into vapor. So even at lower temperatures, lots of surface area can help increase vapor production. Dual Coils use this very principal in that we actually use lower real temperatures but spread the heat around more in the cartomizer.
OK, electricity is a little different from fluids in how it is 'conducted' through 'conductors' or blocked by 'insulators', but these basic Ohm's Law ideas help people begin to grasp the concept.
Volts: Think of this as a water tower sitting on the hill. Several things about a water tank are worthy of notice. How high the thing is off the ground (gravity induced pressure), and how much water it will hold (capacity) give us forces to use to move all that water from point A to point B. The higher the tank is, the more pressure it can provide to any pipes connected to it, so think of volts kind of like the hight of that water tank.
Mah (milliamp per hour): Think of this in terms of how big that water tank is...how much water it can hold.
Amps: This is the current. Think of this as 'how fast' the water moves through a pipe or a hose.
Resistance: Think of this as different diameters and lengths of pipe, as well as valves and nozzles, that will carry the water from the tower to a tap a mile down the road. Greater resistances can slow the water flow down, but it can also increase the pressure or intensity throughout the entire system. Lower resistances can dump alot of water really quickly, but they might not have as much pressure or intensity/control behind them.
Now consider your garden hose at the very end of this system, and picture a high pressure nozzle verses no nozzle at all. You should already be able to visualize how opening the tap to full and changing the nozzles can effect how fast the water shoots out of your hose, and how this effects the length of time it takes the tank up on the hill to become empty.
For this analogy, we also have a bucket that we will be filling with that water hose, and for now you can kind of think of this empty bucket at the other end as watts. We want the perfect setup to fill our bucket to just the right level in the perfect amount of time for our application.
By changing the pipes, hoses, and nozzles (resistance), we can take the same voltage in that water tower and have it fill that bucket at different speeds, and with different intensities of force right? If we are not careful, we can even arrange things so that the system dumps water so fast the pipes burst (pop an atty), or even cause the water tower to implode (catastrophic battery failure).
Watts in a Darwin: In electronics, watts generally refers to dissipated heat, but in the case of the Darwin speak, it really means a calculated POWER that the battery will be regulated to supply to the atomizer based on the variables of Ohm's Law. Ohm's Law can get us a 'consistent power' delivered to whatever atomizer is screwed on, and this is the foundation of how the Darwin is designed. This is not to say Ohm's Law covers everything that can effect the over all vaping experience, as it clearly can not explain things like the vapor point of various liquids, how coils go about heating the liquid, how air is drawn through the atomizer design, the efficiency of wicking systems for the e-liquid, and so forth. This is why the Darwin makers call it 'Adjustable Power' instead of watts, or temperature, etc.
For most PVs, the water tank at the top of the hill is an assumed constant (3.4 volts as an example), as well as the size of the pipes and nozzles (resistance of atomizer); and, the current is what you alter the most according to how much resistance is applied in the atomizer that you attach. Some PVs go to all sorts of simple or elaborate tricks to keep the 'current' from getting so fast it fries things or implodes the battery, and in some respects the Darwin is among them. In general, current (amps) is the dangerous part of electricity. That is when it is motion...kind of like water flowing over the turbines of a dam.
Lower resistance atomizers heat up very quickly, they also cool off relatively quickly, and they also ask the battery (water tank) to dump out energy faster (amps or current). In the water analogy you might think of this as a really large pipe that lets the water dump out really quickly.
In electronics, the concept of current is quite similar as our water system described above, but the material ratio is usually the opposite (bigger diameter or longer coils can have a higher resistance...the extra size is added because 'insulating materials' are added to the alloy to allow fewer electrons to flow through them, or they just make it bigger and/or longer thus slowing down the current...and while insulators or extra material can slow down the current, they can also absorb and store lots of heat, so they can take longer to both heat up, and to cool off).
In the Darwin, we think backwards from other PV systems. VV systems focus on the height of the water tank, and may have a pulsing or shutdown system to prevent dangerous currents, and that's it. Fixed systems focus on changing the current via swapping the resistance of the atomizer, and maybe a pulsing or shutdown mofset to keep current under control. The Darwin uses a simple computer and Ohms Law to constantly regulate the voltage, and to some degree the current needed to arrive at your 'power setting' (Or the Watts variable of Ohms Law). So, with the Darwin, the user focuses simply on what setting gets the 'bucket full' the best for his vaping application.
So after soaking on all that, what's really going on in the Darwin?
You control the Power with your wheel (Watts in the Ohms Law formula).
The resistance is supplied by the atomizer system you screw on (Ohms).
The atomizer system by nature asks for a certain current (amps) depending on the voltage that is available to it.
And the missing variable, Voltage, is calculated via Darwin using your power setting and the atomizer resistance, using the Ohm's Law formula (In this formula the Power Setting represents Watts).
One thing worth noting, is that the Darwin limits itself to somewhere around 3 amps of current (may vary with your particular Darwin) as the maximum safe current. This is to prevent permanently damaging the chemistry of your battery (which could result in a battery fire), and also is still a safe current in the extremely rare event a spark somehow arcs to 'shock' the user. So even if your wheel says you can still crank up the power but you notice the Voltage and Amps refuse to go up anymore (and the Ohm's calculator on Google no longer matches up with your estimates), this is why. The Darwin's safety circuitry has kicked in at the 3 amp limit. You can ease the wheel down bit by bit until you find the 'true power' being supplied again (when the voltage or amps start nudging down again). As an example, when I screw on a 2 Ohm dual coil, my Darwin maxes out at around 5v, 3 amps...even though I can still turn the power wheel up quite a bit.
So is it true that vaping with higher resistance atomizers will make your battery last longer?
Honestly, that all depends on how you like to set the power, and how long you burn when you draw. Also, we have to remember that batteries (PVs in general) are chemistry based, and things like the temperature of your room, the altitude and humidity, or even the phase of the moon can impact their performance in some way. So it's hard to say for sure my Darwin will work exactly like yours when it comes to battery efficiency.
For me, it is very much true, but I like higher resistance gear at lower temperatures. I also live pretty close to sea-level in a high humidity area. I can get high enough temps to vape like a research monkey with a very small trickle of amperage. In a similar light, this is why if you go to the camping goods store to shop for an electric lantern meant to burn all night...you'll notices they tend to come with bigger, higher voltage batteries who's bulbs have higher resistance elements in them (they usually take a while to warm up to full luminance, and can even dim out slowly long after you've cut them off). Lights meant to flip on and off frequently for short periods of time will have lower voltage batteries with lower resistance bulbs in them.
On the other hand, if I crank my Darwin up to the kinds of heat that LR atties are designed to deliver very quickly by default, that battery efficiency gap starts to close...in come cases, for things I prefer to 'vape hot' I might be better off with LR at lower voltages. It all just depends on what you want the vape to be like
Is it true that LR stuff isn't as good on a Darwin?
If we're talking dual or triple coils...not at all...a whole different ball game. Those use more than one high resistance coil and spread the heat around differently.
With single coils...again...there is no rule that says HV gear is better or worse than LR....it all just depends on your tastes and prefs for throat hit vs flavor, and so on.
LR gets hot really fast, and it cools a little faster than HV stuff. LR also usually has less coil to wick/liquid surface area, but given good enough wicks kept nice and wet the higher temps can still pour out the vapor at very high rates. LR also runs the current (amps) up more quickly if you like higher settings. It is also harder to get LR atties to work at lower temperatures. I've seen some that just won't burn cool on my Darwin period...3.8 Volts is as low as they'll go, even tho' the wheel has a few settings downward (some times as much as two full watts) left in it. In contrast, I've had some higher resistance atties that can barely smolder at 3.2 volts on the Darwin (I don't use it turned down that low...the point is just to explain that some LR stuff isn't going to burn any cooler than 5, or even 6 watts unless you find some sort of low voltage battery below 3v with an abnormally high capacity and c rating, or put a bunch of extra circuits or resistors in the mix somehow...).
For the most part...don't worry about the battery life too much. It's going to be pretty darn good no matter what you screw on. Get what you like and set it how you like it
Yes, surface area (direct coil to juice contact) has much to do with vaping. Higher resistance coils usually have either fatter wire (diameter, but with a higher percentage of insulating material [ceramic clay just as as an example] in the metal), more wraps (length) or both
Either way, that means more surface area to come in contact with liquid and turn it into vapor. So even at lower temperatures, lots of surface area can help increase vapor production. Dual Coils use this very principal in that we actually use lower real temperatures but spread the heat around more in the cartomizer.OK, electricity is a little different from fluids in how it is 'conducted' through 'conductors' or blocked by 'insulators', but these basic Ohm's Law ideas help people begin to grasp the concept.
Volts: Think of this as a water tower sitting on the hill. Several things about a water tank are worthy of notice. How high the thing is off the ground (gravity induced pressure), and how much water it will hold (capacity) give us forces to use to move all that water from point A to point B. The higher the tank is, the more pressure it can provide to any pipes connected to it, so think of volts kind of like the hight of that water tank.
Mah (milliamp per hour): Think of this in terms of how big that water tank is...how much water it can hold.
Amps: This is the current. Think of this as 'how fast' the water moves through a pipe or a hose.
Resistance: Think of this as different diameters and lengths of pipe, as well as valves and nozzles, that will carry the water from the tower to a tap a mile down the road. Greater resistances can slow the water flow down, but it can also increase the pressure or intensity throughout the entire system. Lower resistances can dump alot of water really quickly, but they might not have as much pressure or intensity/control behind them.
Now consider your garden hose at the very end of this system, and picture a high pressure nozzle verses no nozzle at all. You should already be able to visualize how opening the tap to full and changing the nozzles can effect how fast the water shoots out of your hose, and how this effects the length of time it takes the tank up on the hill to become empty.
For this analogy, we also have a bucket that we will be filling with that water hose, and for now you can kind of think of this empty bucket at the other end as watts. We want the perfect setup to fill our bucket to just the right level in the perfect amount of time for our application.
By changing the pipes, hoses, and nozzles (resistance), we can take the same voltage in that water tower and have it fill that bucket at different speeds, and with different intensities of force right? If we are not careful, we can even arrange things so that the system dumps water so fast the pipes burst (pop an atty), or even cause the water tower to implode (catastrophic battery failure).
Watts in a Darwin: In electronics, watts generally refers to dissipated heat, but in the case of the Darwin speak, it really means a calculated POWER that the battery will be regulated to supply to the atomizer based on the variables of Ohm's Law. Ohm's Law can get us a 'consistent power' delivered to whatever atomizer is screwed on, and this is the foundation of how the Darwin is designed. This is not to say Ohm's Law covers everything that can effect the over all vaping experience, as it clearly can not explain things like the vapor point of various liquids, how coils go about heating the liquid, how air is drawn through the atomizer design, the efficiency of wicking systems for the e-liquid, and so forth. This is why the Darwin makers call it 'Adjustable Power' instead of watts, or temperature, etc.
For most PVs, the water tank at the top of the hill is an assumed constant (3.4 volts as an example), as well as the size of the pipes and nozzles (resistance of atomizer); and, the current is what you alter the most according to how much resistance is applied in the atomizer that you attach. Some PVs go to all sorts of simple or elaborate tricks to keep the 'current' from getting so fast it fries things or implodes the battery, and in some respects the Darwin is among them. In general, current (amps) is the dangerous part of electricity. That is when it is motion...kind of like water flowing over the turbines of a dam.
Lower resistance atomizers heat up very quickly, they also cool off relatively quickly, and they also ask the battery (water tank) to dump out energy faster (amps or current). In the water analogy you might think of this as a really large pipe that lets the water dump out really quickly.
In electronics, the concept of current is quite similar as our water system described above, but the material ratio is usually the opposite (bigger diameter or longer coils can have a higher resistance...the extra size is added because 'insulating materials' are added to the alloy to allow fewer electrons to flow through them, or they just make it bigger and/or longer thus slowing down the current...and while insulators or extra material can slow down the current, they can also absorb and store lots of heat, so they can take longer to both heat up, and to cool off).
In the Darwin, we think backwards from other PV systems. VV systems focus on the height of the water tank, and may have a pulsing or shutdown system to prevent dangerous currents, and that's it. Fixed systems focus on changing the current via swapping the resistance of the atomizer, and maybe a pulsing or shutdown mofset to keep current under control. The Darwin uses a simple computer and Ohms Law to constantly regulate the voltage, and to some degree the current needed to arrive at your 'power setting' (Or the Watts variable of Ohms Law). So, with the Darwin, the user focuses simply on what setting gets the 'bucket full' the best for his vaping application.
So after soaking on all that, what's really going on in the Darwin?
You control the Power with your wheel (Watts in the Ohms Law formula).
The resistance is supplied by the atomizer system you screw on (Ohms).
The atomizer system by nature asks for a certain current (amps) depending on the voltage that is available to it.
And the missing variable, Voltage, is calculated via Darwin using your power setting and the atomizer resistance, using the Ohm's Law formula (In this formula the Power Setting represents Watts).
One thing worth noting, is that the Darwin limits itself to somewhere around 3 amps of current (may vary with your particular Darwin) as the maximum safe current. This is to prevent permanently damaging the chemistry of your battery (which could result in a battery fire), and also is still a safe current in the extremely rare event a spark somehow arcs to 'shock' the user. So even if your wheel says you can still crank up the power but you notice the Voltage and Amps refuse to go up anymore (and the Ohm's calculator on Google no longer matches up with your estimates), this is why. The Darwin's safety circuitry has kicked in at the 3 amp limit. You can ease the wheel down bit by bit until you find the 'true power' being supplied again (when the voltage or amps start nudging down again). As an example, when I screw on a 2 Ohm dual coil, my Darwin maxes out at around 5v, 3 amps...even though I can still turn the power wheel up quite a bit.
So is it true that vaping with higher resistance atomizers will make your battery last longer?
Honestly, that all depends on how you like to set the power, and how long you burn when you draw. Also, we have to remember that batteries (PVs in general) are chemistry based, and things like the temperature of your room, the altitude and humidity, or even the phase of the moon can impact their performance in some way. So it's hard to say for sure my Darwin will work exactly like yours when it comes to battery efficiency.
For me, it is very much true, but I like higher resistance gear at lower temperatures. I also live pretty close to sea-level in a high humidity area. I can get high enough temps to vape like a research monkey with a very small trickle of amperage. In a similar light, this is why if you go to the camping goods store to shop for an electric lantern meant to burn all night...you'll notices they tend to come with bigger, higher voltage batteries who's bulbs have higher resistance elements in them (they usually take a while to warm up to full luminance, and can even dim out slowly long after you've cut them off). Lights meant to flip on and off frequently for short periods of time will have lower voltage batteries with lower resistance bulbs in them.
On the other hand, if I crank my Darwin up to the kinds of heat that LR atties are designed to deliver very quickly by default, that battery efficiency gap starts to close...in come cases, for things I prefer to 'vape hot' I might be better off with LR at lower voltages. It all just depends on what you want the vape to be like
Is it true that LR stuff isn't as good on a Darwin?
If we're talking dual or triple coils...not at all...a whole different ball game. Those use more than one high resistance coil and spread the heat around differently.
With single coils...again...there is no rule that says HV gear is better or worse than LR....it all just depends on your tastes and prefs for throat hit vs flavor, and so on.
LR gets hot really fast, and it cools a little faster than HV stuff. LR also usually has less coil to wick/liquid surface area, but given good enough wicks kept nice and wet the higher temps can still pour out the vapor at very high rates. LR also runs the current (amps) up more quickly if you like higher settings. It is also harder to get LR atties to work at lower temperatures. I've seen some that just won't burn cool on my Darwin period...3.8 Volts is as low as they'll go, even tho' the wheel has a few settings downward (some times as much as two full watts) left in it. In contrast, I've had some higher resistance atties that can barely smolder at 3.2 volts on the Darwin (I don't use it turned down that low...the point is just to explain that some LR stuff isn't going to burn any cooler than 5, or even 6 watts unless you find some sort of low voltage battery below 3v with an abnormally high capacity and c rating, or put a bunch of extra circuits or resistors in the mix somehow...).
For the most part...don't worry about the battery life too much. It's going to be pretty darn good no matter what you screw on. Get what you like and set it how you like it
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Oh my gosh.....I think I'm becoming a fortune teller.....let me see here....... Liv2ski, I see it in the tea leaves that you will become an ECF Veteran within the next 24 hours.....
If this does not happend, then guess I am not really destined to tell fortunes......
And another tea leaf seems to indicate that Krisb will follow in about 12 days.....
If this does not happend, then guess I am not really destined to tell fortunes......
And another tea leaf seems to indicate that Krisb will follow in about 12 days.....
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@ credo.... Man, you beat me to it.. I was JUST about to say that! WTF... Again, I'm sure glad I bought one and didn't try to make one... 
Happy VAPE-iversary, Ski, baby!
You did it bud. A full year of vaping and squonking and DARWINING and loving the new life!
SO proud of you, and so proud to be your friend!! You're the best, Gutter Boy!!!!
Big Hugs and Congrats!!!!!
You did it bud. A full year of vaping and squonking and DARWINING and loving the new life!
SO proud of you, and so proud to be your friend!! You're the best, Gutter Boy!!!!
Big Hugs and Congrats!!!!!
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Congrats ski! Your quick wit, willingness to help, and clever sense of perversion have been an inspiration to us all! Hmm.
Thank you for all the help you have given me, and all the threads that you have helped others!
vape on
PS. I am digging the cin roll in a big way! It's late for me here. Must... Put... It... Down....
Thank you for all the help you have given me, and all the threads that you have helped others!
vape on
PS. I am digging the cin roll in a big way! It's late for me here. Must... Put... It... Down....
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Congrats! It's a hellvan accomplishment! It's gotta feel damn good!
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