The Final Count Down -- Are You Ready?

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Mowgli

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I can trade DIY e-liquid for mods/toppers if I have to.

I can make ok solder joints and the burns on my hands have always healed.

I'll use sobohm coils till I run out then go back to coiling/wicking Aromamizers & RDAs.

The industry might take a hit for a few years at worst but eventually the science will prevail.
We'll get by but smokers that want to quit will have to order from overseas for a while or die.
I believe that if the PMTA regs kill the current US vaping industry it will return eventually :2c:

We're not done fighting though. Join CASAA. Keep making calls. etc
 
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JCinFLA

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We're not done fighting though. Join CASAA. Keep making calls. etc

Vapor Leaf is done. Got an email about 50% off everything, because they are closing Sept. 7th. On their site it says they fought a good fight for 9 years, but they're tired now. So another one bites the dust. There's not a lot still left in stock on their website. Lots of things are shown, but when you go to the page for them ...they're gone already. I'm thinking they may have had a local sale and got rid of a whole bunch.
 

mikepetro

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^^^^^^^

As do I...........

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Doffy

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i got around to a cost comparison. Factoring in omvapors diluting their WTA to a more-nic-less-minor-alkaloids level. I ran some testing with what i have here too

per year

239.53 usd OM vs 194.18 usd aroma

so this year's order will be aroma (stock permitting)
 

hittman

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    Somewhere between here and there
    I’ve never built with a dna board but am interested. I think it would be fun to build my own. Is it very expensive? I can solder and have a really good weller butane soldering iron as well as a pretty good soldering station at work that I can use any time. Maybe someone could point me in the direction of how to get started?
     

    mikepetro

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    I’ve never built with a dna board but am interested. I think it would be fun to build my own. Is it very expensive? I can solder and have a really good weller butane soldering iron as well as a pretty good soldering station at work that I can use any time. Maybe someone could point me in the direction of how to get started?
    Here is a typical build Doc for a kit:


    ERM250pic_zpsxmuuvaby.jpg
     

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    Horselady154

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    That is a good deal.

    I always err on the side of too much. I also have WAY more RTAs than mods (well maybe not counting my 2.5 provaris and my 8 eleaf invokes.) But I mean I have to calculate for ME.

    I mean, I just killed a radius flat out dead. That takes real skill lemme tell you.

    Yeah I have all the parts and if anyone handy who needs them wants radius parts you just go ahead and let me know because that thing is NOT coming back to life anytime in the even DISTANT future. They are yours for the taking Etc. But I'm not CLEANING It first and it was in coffee, so I should perhaps note that. The shell may be a little sticky.

    Anna
    Anna, why don't you hang onto it and when he starts repairing again, see if the Provape guy can repair it?
     

    Rossum

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    A while back, I got ten DNA 75's with screens for $110. Those and a rebuildable squonker is my plan. I bought several squonking RDA's. Now if I could soldier, I'd be in business.
    Don't worry, there are more than a few folks here who can. Besides, the newer DNA 75/200/250 boards are a piece of cake. They have nice big pads to solder the power wires to rather than the previous DNA 20/30/40 generation that had through-holes that were always too small for the recommended wire sizes.

    Back about 5 years ago:

    xfrb0mt.jpg


    F5o2Y45.jpg


    VGT9Kf0.jpg
     

    DeloresRose

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    For me, I’m not comfortable with mechs so I made sure I have plenty of mods. I also don’t have confidence that I could build a mech with “stuff I have around the house” [emoji4]

    Mine would be made of yarn and Instant Pot accessories. The fire button would be the squeaker from a dog toy.
     

    CMD-Ky

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    Although I am building a squonker, your PDF was saved, printed and will be very helpful to me. I favor written material more than videos, I have to go back and re-read sections, often several times before I get it. I have never tried anything remotely like this in my seventy-four years.
    Now for the stupid question to show what a novice I am: What brand and type of soldier and flux are you recommending?

    Thanks for posting.

    Here is a typical build Doc for a kit:


    ERM250pic_zpsxmuuvaby.jpg
     

    mikepetro

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    Although I am building a squonker, your PDF was saved, printed and will be very helpful to me. I favor written material more than videos, I have to go back and re-read sections, often several times before I get it. I have never tried anything remotely like this in my seventy-four years.
    Now for the stupid question to show what a novice I am: What brand and type of soldier and flux are you recommending?

    Thanks for posting.
    I like Kester 24-6337-0027 Solder it is a "Eutectic" 63/37 alloy. The advantage of this alloy is that it transitions from melted to solid quicker, meaning a much lower chance of dry solder joints.

    For flux, through experience I have landed on AMTECH NC-559-V2-TF Solder Flux. It works like a charm, and the syringe type dispenser is really quite handy.
     

    DaveP

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    Pico X and pico S are the newest. But they don't seem to have the nice KISS approach. A little ugly

    Eleaf iStick Pico S with Single 21700 Cell 100W Box Mod 4000mAh - Blue

    Eleaf iStick X 75W TC Vape Mod with upgradeable Firmware

    i have the Pico X and the S. Both are solid mods. The X is a modified Pico with more ergonomic hand feel. The S is a more radical design that uses 18650 or 21700. I use my 21700 cells in the Pico S for about 25% more vape time. Eleaf apparently designed the battery tube like they did to get better air circulation around the cell for high wattage vapers. I have no regrets with ordering both. They are good mods, IMO.

    I still use my old Pico 75W's for pocket carry away from home, but the X and the S get lots of at home use.
     
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