THE GV BIRKSHIRE is Coming to Gotvapes soon, ADVANCED Users Only - Must See!!

[nepatitan]

ugh just blew 4 more coils. first 2 blew just touching the button to fire it up. last 2 were tricky as that same hot spot between the positive post and first coil was lighting up, spend 20 mins just trying not to get it to pop then moved the wick towards the back and pop it cant be this hard....

 

[rdsok]

I know I didn't have those issues... at least not yet. My first ever wick/coil and I did mess it up... ended up with only 1.3 ohms... so I rebuilt it and the second attempt I ended up with 1.6 ohm and it has been working fine. I'm using 400 mesh and 32g Kanthal. I shorted the length of the wick on the 2nd... so that will need to be addressed on the next one I make.

I've already made a 3rd wick and I addressed the length issue by making this one too long ( on purpose ). I'll be able to stick the wick in before I build the coils on it so I can get the length correct the next time around.

The first one... the 1.3 ohm coil... I didn't use after measuring the resistance. The 1.6 ohm coil is just fine and even though I made the wick too short, I'm not having any wicking issues that I notice.

 

[Dieseler]

ugh just blew 4 more coils. first 2 blew just touching the button to fire it up. last 2 were tricky as that same hot spot between the positive post and first coil was lighting up, spend 20 mins just trying not to get it to pop then moved the wick towards the back and pop it cant be this hard....

Nep next time you try it as you seem determined to get it right which is a good thing.
When you go to connect the top coil wire to the positive post do so in a gentle way and try not to stretch the wire as to where it pulls the coil inwards toward the positive post as that can break the oxidation on the mesh by having the coil wire dig into it some and cause problems.
You want it taught but not tight nor wire loose to where it droops to the positive post for my lack of better words.

You can try this.
Wrap your coil and make your connection to ground and hot.
Before you fire it just nudge that top coil and try not to touch the mesh and nudge that top coil down some .
Check the whole setup make sure coil wires are not touching each other as sometimes behind the mesh where you dont see some of the windings they may be touching . Check it real good if it looks good fire it at low voltage.
Think positive !

 

[wolandepiphanius]

this mesh stuff looks way too worriesome to me. I'll stick with my wicks I guess

No monkey mama, it's actually really simple, it's just getting rid of the hot stops that takes patience and time. But once you get one going, it'll last you a long, long, long time. But getting there is a huge learning curve. I wasted about half the ss mesh I bought just trying to get it right (well, I don't mean to scare you) and now I feel like a pro. Well, sort of a pro. More like a novice with a feeling of superiority. Oh, all right, I feel like a noob.

Oh, and I just got my first GV Birkshire today, and I have to say that I really love this thing. And I love GV for sending it out so fast. I ordered this thing on Sunday, and it got here today! I'm using it with ss mesh. I think it's easier to rebuild than the Monster Mesh (no offense intended for those who love the Monster Mesh).

 

[Dieseler]

No monkey mama, it's actually really simple, it's just getting rid of the hot stops that takes patience and time. But once you get one going, it'll last you a long, long, long time. But getting there is a huge learning curve. I wasted about half the ss mesh I bought just trying to get it right (well, I don't mean to scare you) and now I feel like a pro. Well, sort of a pro. More like a novice with a feeling of superiority. Oh, all right, I feel like a noob.

Oh, and I just got my first GV Birkshire today, and I have to say that I really love this thing. And I love GV for sending it out so fast. I ordered this thing on Sunday, and it got here today! I'm using it with ss mesh. I think it's easier to rebuild than the Monster Mesh (no offense intended for those who love the Monster Mesh).

Thanks its very encouraging to see your post and helps folks like Nep to keep trying with his wick . I know it can be frustrating at first as i learned making the long U wicks in the scubagen but it does get easier . After a while when making a wick and testing it if a hot spot is there its like pfft no problem just a little adjustment to the coil and its fine.
It does get easier much easier and i enjoy trying to help folks make them work right just ask in a thread .

 

[nepatitan]

Hey guys thanks again for helping so much. I gave up for the night, got frustrated as I have gone thru 1.5 meters of wire in the last day. lol some battlefield 3 will help me blow off some steam. Im going to try again in the morning I'm going to make a quick youtube video too see if anyone can spot what I'm doing wrong.
Thanks again guys

 

[badkolo]

we have the new ss clear version of the birkshire going up tomorow i think, your gonna love these.

 

[Rule62]

View attachment 149296 - wick

View attachment 149297 - current coil

View attachment 149298 - coil right before it popped, was pulsing the power so was not holding the switch down

Looking at your top picture, notice that the edge of the mesh, where it was cut, is ragged. In the second pic, the last partial wrap, before the wire goes toward the positive connection, is crossing this ragged edge of the wick. I'm guessing this is where and why your coils are popping. Those tiny ragged wires sticking out of the wick are enough to create a hot spot. One solution to this is: before rolling your wick, either fold your piece of mesh in half, or fold over a bit of the mesh, so that there will be a smooth outside edge, rather than little jagged wires sticking out. The idea is to create a hem at the outer edge of the wick. Also, when setting up the wick in the tank, do not set the end of the wick on the tank bottom. Keep it off the bottom a bit.

 

[WallyO]

we have the new ss clear version of the birkshire going up tomorow i think, your gonna love these.

That's the one I've been waiting for. Like AG, I gotta see my juice.

 

[Dieseler]

Looking at your top picture, notice that the edge of the mesh, where it was cut, is ragged. In the second pic, the last partial wrap, before the wire goes toward the positive connection, is crossing this ragged edge of the wick. I'm guessing this is where and why your coils are popping. Those tiny ragged wires sticking out of the wick are enough to create a hot spot. One solution to this is: before rolling your wick, either fold your piece of mesh in half, or fold over a bit of the mesh, so that there will be a smooth outside edge, rather than little jagged wires sticking out. The idea is to create a hem at the outer edge of the wick. Also, when setting up the wick in the tank, do not set the end of the wick on the tank bottom. Keep it off the bottom a bit.

Great eye you have. I had forgotten to mention to him when i roll my wicks i do fold the edge over then roll over it . It helps me so i dont worry about fraying.
This is reason why i would stink at doing video's.
AlmightyG did a very nice video imho on doing these wicks and i have a feeling Nep is gonna get the wick right really soon.
Heck im anxious for him to get it and then his reaction when its up and running. ; )

 

[t8kiteasy]

Ok so I finally got it going.... kinda lol. I ended up oxidizing the wick more, about 6 times more to the point that it wouldn't pop the coil in 1/2 a second.
I'm pretty sure I have to play with the wicks more, as it doesn't really taste all that well, and I think the bottom 2 coils are not heating up. I'll try to wrap another coil in a little bit and let you know how it goes.

If the bottom coils are not burning,that would be where the bad taste is coming from it is just burning the top of the wick without juice.

 

[woody55]

Just a little FYI to throw out as I haven't seen it mentioned yet and if it has here it is again. When looking for the hot spots and correcting turn the voltage down, if you can go to your lowest voltage setting. I do mine at 2.9-3.0 volts. After I get solid glow across coil I season it, prime it and load tank. Then I go up with voltage. Currently I am running a MonsterMesh at 1.7ohms and 3.5v. very nice vape. Took me 15mins to set up.

 

[Adrena]

Just a little FYI to throw out as I haven't seen it mentioned yet and if it has here it is again. When looking for the hot spots and correcting turn the voltage down, if you can go to your lowest voltage setting. I do mine at 2.9-3.0 volts. After I get solid glow across coil I season it, prime it and load tank. Then I go up with voltage. Currently I am running a MonsterMesh at 1.7ohms and 3.5v. very nice vape. Took me 15mins to set up.

Woody, I never knew congrats on your monster

 

[nepatitan]

I lied, I try again early early this morning, got 2 coils glowing then POP!
My starting voltage is at 3.3 volts, end up hitting the 16 second cut off, so I got up to 3.5 then 3.7 volts. Usually 3.7 volts is enough to start to get them to glow. What I just realized as well is the wire I'm using is nichrome, would that cause the kind of troubles im having over using kanthal?
I'll also try tweezing any stray pieces coming off the wick. Is there a way to re roll the wick (bought pre oxodized) so that Its a more even looking wick?

Thanks

 

[Dieseler]

Nep i failed to mention when i roll my wicks i fold an edge and as i roll over it and tighten wick with finger the outside looks nice and clean and tight.
Nichrome i dont care for it will pop easier than Kanthal has been my experience when shorting .
I use Nichrome when i used to recoil my porcelain smoke units in my 1950s Lionel model trains cause thats what was originally used and .

If you do not have Kanthal A-1 Pm me your address i can send you enough to experiment with Kanthal A-1 32 guage via regular mail and i bet with all this recoiling you been doing you will make a working coil with the Kanthal or at least be able to adjust the coils once wound without popping it and get it working.

 

[mikecup]

I had that same problem with the top wire getting bright orange. I mentioned this in the monster mesh thread. But the rolling paper method corrected it for me, now I have an even burning coil. I oxidize the wick, wrap a piece of rolling paper around the end where the coil will go, wet it a little so it sticks, don't use the glue end of the paper. I then put the wick into the hole. Then I take my wire I start by connecting it to the neg screw, then I will wrap the coil around the wick while its in the hole, wrap it 4 or 5 times, then connect it to the pos post, trim off the excess. Then dry burn 3 to 4 sec at a time, the rolling paper will turn to ash, blow off the excess, but a thin layer of carbon will remain under the coil to eliminate shorts. Been working for me so far after 3 re coils.

 

[t8kiteasy]

I lied, I try again early early this morning, got 2 coils glowing then POP!
My starting voltage is at 3.3 volts, end up hitting the 16 second cut off, so I got up to 3.5 then 3.7 volts. Usually 3.7 volts is enough to start to get them to glow. What I just realized as well is the wire I'm using is nichrome, would that cause the kind of troubles im having over using kanthal?
I'll also try tweezing any stray pieces coming off the wick. Is there a way to re roll the wick (bought pre oxodized) so that Its a more even looking wick?

Thanks

No if you already rolled the mesh you can't start over.Are you using a RBA that requires no resistance wire(i do not remember seeing which RBA you are using posted)???Don't forget to burn the kanthal wire thru a blue flame at least 3 times also.

 

[Rule62]

I lied, I try again early early this morning, got 2 coils glowing then POP!
My starting voltage is at 3.3 volts, end up hitting the 16 second cut off, so I got up to 3.5 then 3.7 volts. Usually 3.7 volts is enough to start to get them to glow. What I just realized as well is the wire I'm using is nichrome, would that cause the kind of troubles im having over using kanthal?
I'll also try tweezing any stray pieces coming off the wick. Is there a way to re roll the wick (bought pre oxodized) so that Its a more even looking wick?

Thanks

Even with a wick that is already oxidized, you should be able to unroll it a little; enough to fold over the jagged edge, and re roll it, to tighten it up. After it's re rolled, do 2 or 3 juice burns on it, by dripping some juice on the wick while it's still out of the unit, light the juice with a flame, let it burn off, and repeat. After this, the wick should be good to go back into the unit and re coil.

 

[nepatitan]

lol soooo much information here.
@Dieseler - I will try to fold thewick, i unrolled one wick already just to make sure there weren't any little goblins in there makin my life hell. So ill try to rewrap that tonight at fold the end.

@t8kiteasy - It's the Birkshire from gotvapes oh and I have been heating the coil up as well with the torch

@rule62 - I reoxidized the wick 6 extra times to give more more layers on it. I'm really starting to wonder if it the wire or im just an idiot lol

 

[Rule62]

lol soooo much information here.
@Dieseler - I will try to fold thewick, i unrolled one wick already just to make sure there weren't any little goblins in there makin my life hell. So ill try to rewrap that tonight at fold the end.

@t8kiteasy - It's the Birkshire from gotvapes oh and I have been heating the coil up as well with the torch

@rule62 - I reoxidized the wick 6 extra times to give more more layers on it. I'm really starting to wonder if it the wire or im just an idiot lol

Nah, you're not an idiot. You're just frustrated. There are lots of methods for building these things. Tons of youtube videos out there. Here's basically how I do it.
Find a drill bit, finishing nail, or whatever, that is about the size of the wick hole, but slides in.
Take a piece of wire, and heat it up with a lighter or mini torch, to red hot. This will take some tension out of the wire, and make it easier to work with.
Wrap your wire around the drill bit or nail, to create your coil, leaving an inch or so on each end, for eventually connecting to the + and -.
Slide the bit or nail into the hole, with the coil still on it; and connect the + and -. Just snug the connections for now. You'll finish tightening them later.
Very carefully remove the drill bit or nail from the center of the coil. You'll be left with just the coil, without the wick inside it.
Using low voltage, very quickly fire the coil a couple times, to make sure it works.
Now, this is the important part. Roll and size your wick so that it slides through your coil and into the tank. The wick should go in with some slight resistance. You don't want it to freely fall through; but you don't want to force it either. Stop before the wick touches the bottom of the tank.
Now, loosen the top (+) nut, and pull the top of the wick and coil until it's as close as possible to the center post, without touching it.
Tighten the top nut.
Look at the bottom coil, and if there are no spaces between the wick and bottom coil wrap, tighten the screw. If there's a noticeable space, gently loosen the screw, pull the wire to take up the slack, and tighten the screw.
Now you're ready to test your finished product.
Hit your power button, and see that all coils are glowing evenly.
If they're not, you can gently prod the offending loop with a toothpick.
If they're all good, bump up the voltage a bit, and fire it again.
Each time you fire it, you are not only testing, but you're "seasoning" your coil.
Once you're satisfied, put a drop or two of juice on the coil, and fire it, to burn off.
Do this "burn off" 3 or 4 times.
Now, clip off the excess wire at the + and - connections.
Fill the tank, put the cap on, and vape.
I generally start out vaping at a lower voltage, and gradually increase it, to break in the set up.

Hope some of this helps.