The Kick by Evolv--Coming to Super-T!
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The configuration I'm using for the Kick in my 18500 is one thin o-ring under the battery with one switch washer. It's working fantastically, but I was hoping to get away with not using an o-ring under the top cap. I can, but i feel like i have to crank the top cap down dangerously hard to leave no gap. Or I just leave a slight gap. This may have been asked before, but has anybody found a slightly thinner o-ring to go under the battery, and if so, is it too thin to do its job well enough?
I'm sure I've got one of those thin red fiber washers from a Harbor Freight Tools washer / seal assortment pack I might try. I'll post back later and let you know whether it worked.
Update: See four comments down.
Update: See four comments down.
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That's odd, I'm using the exact same setup (one thin o-ring and one washer) and I'm able to screw on the top cap without having a gap. I don't have to crank down on it hard at all. If anything, it's a bit of a looser fit than before I was using the Kick. My buddy has his set up the same way, and he doesn't have a gap either. I wonder why some people with P+18500s have a gap, while some of us don't.
Well, mine is from the very first run. How about you guyze's? Maybe they got just a wee bit longer along the way.
The 18500 snork and I have is apparently the same length David uses in his video. Eliminating the gap between the top cap and the body requires either David's O-ring trick, or really cranking the cap down and putting what feels like unhealthy pressure on the Kick and the battery. I discovered that a foam washer from a Harbor Freight Tools assortment pack works very well instead of an O ring below the battery. Click to view full size:
As you can see in the next picture, there is just enough room in the center of the installed washer for the bottom button firing post to clear and contact the battery unhindered.
I tried one of those red fiber washers, but it worked a little too well. Red washer + battery + kick + top cap screwed all the way down still left a little play.
The foam washer works great, though. It's very springy, not too thick, not too thin, and the perfect diameter. I start to feel resistance with about half a turn to go on the top cap, but it's not overly stiff and doesn't feel like I'm putting undue pressure on the Kick or the battery. Using this setup, I had to remove all the brass washers from the bottom button firing pin. In this configuration, my P+ will stand up on its button without firing, but only just, and only as long as whatever it's standing on is smooth.
My only concern is that I'm sure this washer isn't fireproof. I wonder whether the bottom post sparking against the battery so close to this foam washer might be cause for concern. The assortment box's label isn't clear what sort of foam it is, whether it's nitrile, viton, styrofoam or what (though I'm sure it's not styrofoam).
As you can see in the next picture, there is just enough room in the center of the installed washer for the bottom button firing post to clear and contact the battery unhindered.
I tried one of those red fiber washers, but it worked a little too well. Red washer + battery + kick + top cap screwed all the way down still left a little play.
The foam washer works great, though. It's very springy, not too thick, not too thin, and the perfect diameter. I start to feel resistance with about half a turn to go on the top cap, but it's not overly stiff and doesn't feel like I'm putting undue pressure on the Kick or the battery. Using this setup, I had to remove all the brass washers from the bottom button firing pin. In this configuration, my P+ will stand up on its button without firing, but only just, and only as long as whatever it's standing on is smooth.
My only concern is that I'm sure this washer isn't fireproof. I wonder whether the bottom post sparking against the battery so close to this foam washer might be cause for concern. The assortment box's label isn't clear what sort of foam it is, whether it's nitrile, viton, styrofoam or what (though I'm sure it's not styrofoam).
Mine is from the first run too. My buddy got his about 2 months ago. I guess I should just feel fortunate to not need an o-ring to cover the gap.
So I got my P+ 18650 today ! I immediately set my Kick to max, dropped it in and put on my tank of Ms T's Snickerdoodle (with a 3.0 ohm Boge carto).
I normally vape that same setup at 5.5 volts on my Provari. The vape experience with the Kick'd P+ 18650 is the same... Excellent !
Now, what I don't like about the P+ 18650 w/Kick:
1. It isn't as easy to get the battery in and out. You have to fiddle with the spring on the Kick to get it out and then you can swap batteries.
2. Having to use an 18490 battery instead of my 18650 w/Provari means I'll have to swap out more often. In light of #1, that might be an even bigger pain in the ....
Which leads to a question: Can Super-T make an extended top cap for the P+ 18650 so that we can use the Kick w/an 18650 battery in it ?
I normally vape that same setup at 5.5 volts on my Provari. The vape experience with the Kick'd P+ 18650 is the same... Excellent !
Now, what I don't like about the P+ 18650 w/Kick:
1. It isn't as easy to get the battery in and out. You have to fiddle with the spring on the Kick to get it out and then you can swap batteries.
2. Having to use an 18490 battery instead of my 18650 w/Provari means I'll have to swap out more often. In light of #1, that might be an even bigger pain in the ....
Which leads to a question: Can Super-T make an extended top cap for the P+ 18650 so that we can use the Kick w/an 18650 battery in it ?
So if you turn your mod upside down and just give it a little shake, the Kick and the battery don't just fall out? Does mine. The most difficult extraction I had was getting it out of my Empire. There it was, stuck way at the top of the battery tube. Don't really want to go banging an Empire against something. About ten minutes of gentle tapping on the palm of my hand got it out. And I agree, putting the Kick in the Precise is pretty tight, getting it past the threads without the spring hanging up can be a little fiddly.
The spring on the kick worries me a little, that seems like it could be a point of failure somewhere down the line. I'm still wondering about the robustness of the unit as a whole.
Anybody know if the brass portion of the Kick, the top post & bottom contact, is a contiguous unit? Don't know how it could be, but would be good if it was somehow. It would make me feel better about its sturdiness.
The spring on the kick worries me a little, that seems like it could be a point of failure somewhere down the line. I'm still wondering about the robustness of the unit as a whole.
Anybody know if the brass portion of the Kick, the top post & bottom contact, is a contiguous unit? Don't know how it could be, but would be good if it was somehow. It would make me feel better about its sturdiness.
Ah... Ok.. I tried your turn it upside down and shake method... They definitely don't just fall out but it does get the kick up to the top where I don't have to try to guide it all the way up with the spring pushed back. A definite improvement.
I have a handmade tube mod and i have the kick inside it. Everything works great and i'm using 18650, 18500, 18350 and 16340 aw imr batteries. When the 18650, 18500 and 18350 are empty i see that they have 3,5volts (3,2 under load) so i guess it's ok. But the 16340 have 3,7volts and i'm wondering if the kick causes this difference or there is something wrong with my mod. Are the 16340 (aw imr) too small for the kick? Does anyone know? Thank you 
Wondering if anyone can help
This may have already been answered but there's just to many posts to trawl through
I purchased a precise + 18500 along with a kick which came on Saturday and I've been using it with 18350 imr's ive tried loads of different set ups and I'm finding using a thick o-ring and a single washer on the switch pole,
Although I find this the best set up I'm having some issues with my kick, when it's working I can't fault it and it vapes really well but it's just very inconsistent, I can't turn it to 10watts or it just makes a low clicking sound and even when I have it working at lower watts sometimes it fires and other times it doesn't unless I push very very hard on the switch, also the batteries I'm using seem to be giving up and pulsing after a couple of hours of light vaping, I thought this was due to the batteries being a couple of month old but I've tried a couple of new AW's and it's the same result, it's really frustrating because I love the precise plus and the kick together when they are working its like vaping nirvana, I'm sure it's probably somthing and nothing that can be fixed pretty easy (or at least I hope it is)
Also I'll just add all the above problems happen no matter what I stick on the precise be it a 2.0ohm ce2 in a tank a stardust or even my ody with a 3.0ohm coil, I've yet to even try vaping with. The kick at higher than 8 watts
Thanks for any help guys
This may have already been answered but there's just to many posts to trawl through
I purchased a precise + 18500 along with a kick which came on Saturday and I've been using it with 18350 imr's ive tried loads of different set ups and I'm finding using a thick o-ring and a single washer on the switch pole,
Although I find this the best set up I'm having some issues with my kick, when it's working I can't fault it and it vapes really well but it's just very inconsistent, I can't turn it to 10watts or it just makes a low clicking sound and even when I have it working at lower watts sometimes it fires and other times it doesn't unless I push very very hard on the switch, also the batteries I'm using seem to be giving up and pulsing after a couple of hours of light vaping, I thought this was due to the batteries being a couple of month old but I've tried a couple of new AW's and it's the same result, it's really frustrating because I love the precise plus and the kick together when they are working its like vaping nirvana, I'm sure it's probably somthing and nothing that can be fixed pretty easy (or at least I hope it is)
Also I'll just add all the above problems happen no matter what I stick on the precise be it a 2.0ohm ce2 in a tank a stardust or even my ody with a 3.0ohm coil, I've yet to even try vaping with. The kick at higher than 8 watts
Thanks for any help guys
Wondering if anyone can help
This may have already been answered but there's just to many posts to trawl through
I purchased a precise + 18500 along with a kick which came on Saturday and I've been using it with 18350 imr's ive tried loads of different set ups and I'm finding using a thick o-ring and a single washer on the switch pole,
Although I find this the best set up I'm having some issues with my kick, when it's working I can't fault it and it vapes really well but it's just very inconsistent, I can't turn it to 10watts or it just makes a low clicking sound and even when I have it working at lower watts sometimes it fires and other times it doesn't unless I push very very hard on the switch, also the batteries I'm using seem to be giving up and pulsing after a couple of hours of light vaping, I thought this was due to the batteries being a couple of month old but I've tried a couple of new AW's and it's the same result, it's really frustrating because I love the precise plus and the kick together when they are working its like vaping nirvana, I'm sure it's probably somthing and nothing that can be fixed pretty easy (or at least I hope it is)
Also I'll just add all the above problems happen no matter what I stick on the precise be it a 2.0ohm ce2 in a tank a stardust or even my ody with a 3.0ohm coil, I've yet to even try vaping with. The kick at higher than 8 watts
Thanks for any help guys
I had the same exact problem, but with a Reo.... When the battery is in, you hear some clicking... When I pressed the button it just clicked faster... It did that for a while and worked for a while.. then totally stopped working... and just clicked and clicked... I contacted evolv and he had me send it back... I am awaiting a replacement.
Wondering if anyone can help
This may have already been answered but there's just to many posts to trawl through
I purchased a precise + 18500 along with a kick which came on Saturday and I've been using it with 18350 imr's ive tried loads of different set ups and I'm finding using a thick o-ring and a single washer on the switch pole,
Although I find this the best set up I'm having some issues with my kick, when it's working I can't fault it and it vapes really well but it's just very inconsistent, I can't turn it to 10watts or it just makes a low clicking sound and even when I have it working at lower watts sometimes it fires and other times it doesn't unless I push very very hard on the switch, also the batteries I'm using seem to be giving up and pulsing after a couple of hours of light vaping, I thought this was due to the batteries being a couple of month old but I've tried a couple of new AW's and it's the same result, it's really frustrating because I love the precise plus and the kick together when they are working its like vaping nirvana, I'm sure it's probably somthing and nothing that can be fixed pretty easy (or at least I hope it is)
Also I'll just add all the above problems happen no matter what I stick on the precise be it a 2.0ohm ce2 in a tank a stardust or even my ody with a 3.0ohm coil, I've yet to even try vaping with. The kick at higher than 8 watts
Thanks for any help guys
Not sure on the low watts thing but as for battery life I only get about 20 minutes from an 18350 and about 1.5-2.5 hours from an 18650 (when I actually vape like normal) On the other hand I vape about 10 ml a day so your results may vary
I noticed a few users here posting about their Kick'd P+'s being hit or miss when hitting the button.
I didn't have this problem until I tried using the NHaler IMR 18500 "Kick" batteries that came with my "Kick Kit" that I bought from them. These batteries don't have the same "nipple" on the positive end of the battery that my AW IM 18490 batteries have. I have to suspect that this lack of a nipple plays a role in the inconsistent atomizer firing when hitting the button.
I didn't have this problem until I tried using the NHaler IMR 18500 "Kick" batteries that came with my "Kick Kit" that I bought from them. These batteries don't have the same "nipple" on the positive end of the battery that my AW IM 18490 batteries have. I have to suspect that this lack of a nipple plays a role in the inconsistent atomizer firing when hitting the button.
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