The Lemo RTA: A Build With Pics
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Gunk doesn't bother me.
When I get ready to re-wick I break everything down and boil it coil and all for about 10 mins, dry everything up re-wick, juice up and I'm for 3 to 4 more refills until next re-wick time.
When I get ready to re-wick I break everything down and boil it coil and all for about 10 mins, dry everything up re-wick, juice up and I'm for 3 to 4 more refills until next re-wick time.
I have the standard Lemo and have had nothing but trouble with it. Dry hits all the time. I have used regular cotton, Japanese cotton, low ohms, higher ohms, less watts, more watts. Keep getting dry hits with minimal flavor. I am at my wits end with it. About to sell it off. Any tips?
Try this method https://youtu.be/FXpaCa2o9DE
It fixed my subtank mini dry hit problem. I use this method with the lemo now too even though I didn't have dry hits with it.
Wick it heavy with the tails just brushing the deck and away from the juice channels. Works every time.
Gotta go chunky on the wicking! And like cigatron said, tails should be trimmed to juuuuuust touch the deck. And the juice channels should be clear. When looking down through the chimney, you should be able to see light from the channels.
Skyboxer1968, Cigatron & Mellowbuzz, thank you all for the reply's. I am going to use your advice from all of you and try out some new things before I completely disown this RTA. I appreciate it you guys. I will report back on this after I get home from work and try these things out.
this is with cotton bacon:
if your using cotton balls i would use alittle less cotton. if using the ..... cotton i would use alittle more cotton in the coil.
p.s you can also try relieving some of the pressure in the tank so the juice can flow move freely by untightening the top of the tank a little bit.(round the time you see 4 air bubbles.
The pancake method seems to wick a whole lot better but I can't seem to go past 15 watts without it starting to burn a little. Where do you guys vape this at roughly on your wattage level?
Narrdarr in the morning I will try untightening the top and if no luck I will try the method you shared. I know I'm getting frustrated. Has anyone tried the billow rta? Is it any better or easier being dual coil?
Narrdarr in the morning I will try untightening the top and if no luck I will try the method you shared. I know I'm getting frustrated. Has anyone tried the billow rta? Is it any better or easier being dual coil?
Something still doesn't seem right then. What gauge wire are you using?
What's the diameter of your coil?
My coils are in the 2 to 3mm range and I can't choke the juice flow regardless of how tight I wick it, so I put as much as I can in there without deforming the coil. I use 26 gauge wire and at 40 watts the vape is too warm for my liking but it doesn't go dry.
Or.... Are you vaping it with the AFC wide open, but taking very soft/shallow drags..?
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my wattage is 25-35 depending on the juice im using.
i don't have a billow, but i heard it leak like crazy unless your perfect wick the wicking.
What is your coil diameter, and what gauge wire are you using? Keep it over 2mm. 2.5mm works wonderfully. If your coil is already this size, then wicking density could be the issue. The cotton should fit snuggly through the coil without distorting it as you pull it through.
Using a 2.5mm coil, 26ga wire at @ 1.2Ω, and CVS Organic cotton balls, I'm currently vaping at 25 Watts and the only way I'd get a dry hit was if I ran the tank dry.
There are only 1 reason and one reason only you're getting dry hits.
And that's due to lack of sufficient juice flow.
This could be by one of the two of the following or a combination of the both.
1. Poor wicking techniques and blocked juice channels.
2. Vacuum leak in the chamber due to worn or deformed or missing orings
particularly the upper chimney oring.
Pg/vg ratio is irrelevant with with proper wicking
If you are not getting juice to the wick fast enough
Or your wick can't transfer that juice fast enough you WILL get dry hits,
Or in the case of a DNA40 with Ni200 build prematurely hit the temperature protection.
And that's due to lack of sufficient juice flow.
This could be by one of the two of the following or a combination of the both.
1. Poor wicking techniques and blocked juice channels.
2. Vacuum leak in the chamber due to worn or deformed or missing orings
particularly the upper chimney oring.
Pg/vg ratio is irrelevant with with proper wicking
If you are not getting juice to the wick fast enough
Or your wick can't transfer that juice fast enough you WILL get dry hits,
Or in the case of a DNA40 with Ni200 build prematurely hit the temperature protection.
A vacuum leak will cause flooding. His dry hits are either wicking or maybe he does actually have a poorly machined tank. We just saw one missing threads on the 510 connection. It is possible he has one with shallow channels.
If that upper chimney oring is not sealing it will cause dry hits, been there done that.
one easy way to tell is cover the 4 air holes in the base try to take a pull on the tank and quickly stick your tongue over the drip tip, it should hold a vacuum
if not you are not pulling enough juice into the chamber because of a vacuum leak.
If you don't believe it, remove your upper chimney oring and try it for yourself.
In a pinch you can wrap the upper chimney threads with some pipe thread tape, one of my Lemo's has had pipe thread tape on it for about 2 months now.
Worked so well I haven't bothered to remove it to replace the oring.
Worked so well I haven't bothered to remove it to replace the oring.
I've vaped at 50watts, so you need to shove more wicking material in to the coil.
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