You can close the airflow off to pretty much nothing.
I'm a lung hitter myself, but it should be plenty tight for M-T-L as well.
The Lemo RTA: A Build With Pics
- Thread starter VaPreis
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
You can close the airflow off to pretty much nothing.
I'm a lung hitter myself, but it should be plenty tight for M-T-L as well.
Im a direct lung hitter, just like i was with analogs.
Tonight i hit my personal best, vaping at 53w. 2 direct lung hits at 5-6sec interval with no dry hits. Max VG 0mg Nic and 70VG 6mg Nic.
The Cross Bridge/Navy Nest, makes a HUGE difference. It keeps the main wick saturated and gives you a juice reserve when you need it at higher wattage.
I did pack the coil with 10% more Rayon, which gave me an extra 3w boost and helped me brake my last personal record of 50w.
Disclaimer;
Do not attempt to vape stock Lemo at high wattage. I have modified my Lemo Drop for more airflow, which gives me better cooling. Vaping stock Lemo at high wattage, will result in dry hits.
Tonight i hit my personal best, vaping at 53w. 2 direct lung hits at 5-6sec interval with no dry hits. Max VG 0mg Nic and 70VG 6mg Nic.
The Cross Bridge/Navy Nest, makes a HUGE difference. It keeps the main wick saturated and gives you a juice reserve when you need it at higher wattage.
I did pack the coil with 10% more Rayon, which gave me an extra 3w boost and helped me brake my last personal record of 50w.
Disclaimer;
Do not attempt to vape stock Lemo at high wattage. I have modified my Lemo Drop for more airflow, which gives me better cooling. Vaping stock Lemo at high wattage, will result in dry hits.
I've fixed my flavor problem but now every time i wick it i always get popping. I almost thing its because of the contact coil. It wasn't like this when i had a standard in it. I'm really not sure what to do. I've re-wicked it 3 times today trying to get rid of the popping. And my ipv mini v2 is arriving tomorrow so id like to get this figured out. I know the popping is caused by not having enough wick inside the coil. Any suggestions on how much cotton to use? I'm using organic cotton balls. Pictures would be very helpful.
Maybe kiwi will jump in and show some of his builds as well as weirdwillie. If you can duplicate those you should be good to go!!
Follow-up... working great now. Using KGD, I cut the sheet in perpendicular to the grain. I take one of the half sheets and separate the "rougher" portion on either side, leaving the thin fluffy stuff in the middle. I then cut the wick with the grain, slightly over the size of my coil inner diameter. I spin one end to make it easy to pull through. Pull it through, very little resistance, if any. Use the rabbit ear method, trim just above the top of the lower chimney section, then stuff down inside, making sure juice channels are clear. Juice it up, then make my bridges using Willie's method and juice those up well too. Lubricate all seals, spin the glass around on the two white seals, and also spin the top chimney o-ring on to the top (without the glass) a few times to get that section lubricated up. I then put it all together, tighten it all up and fill, leaving a nice size bubble/not filling all the way.
This is giving me far more vapor, allowing me to bump my wattage up, and surprisingly allowing bit more air on the draw. No hint of leaking.
Hehe the fat bird just rebuilt and filled up his lemos. Have 12 tanks with me now so it'll be a while before I finish the lemo [emoji51]
Burping out loud using Tapatalk
Burping out loud using Tapatalk
I joined the club today. I picked up a drop at a local shop today. Boy, it's fantastic and teaching me things already. I am at a crossroads though. I want to rebuild it, but the stock build is so good. I think I'll have to buy another since the wife called dibs on it. I wanted black anyway, lol.
Has anyone's plastic insulator on the building deck melted before? Mine just did and honestly I am worried. Been running it at max 20w at 1.4ohm. I chain vape at times but never have I thought I'd have melting plastic.
It can and will melt if the pos airtube is not tightened securely to the the pos post of the deck. Drops voltage there and can produce extreme heat; like a mech mod with a bad switch.
Never had that happen on any of the 6 I own nor even heard happening on anyone else's.
I run mine 30,35,40 watts all the time, and have vaped up to 80w with mine for a short time just to see what it would do.
Can you post some pics?
contact coils are so 2014
Seriously, I still get a little popping with spaced coils, but not nearly as much as contacts. Most importantly, my wick stays clean longer with spaced coils, way longer! And the Lemo is so big there's plenty of room for spaced coils, even for Ni200 TP coils.
With Rayon I don't have to leave the channels exposed and I can fill my tank completely bubble free and the Rayon will pull the juice into the chamber consistently all the way to the bottom. With the channels covered I don't have to worry about leaks if I set my mod on it's side or I let the fluid get too low. I know "nests" control some of this too, but I just hate how much juice gets wasted when you re-wick. A nest big enough to fill a Lemo probably holds 2ml of juice!
Me neither, and like Willie, I've cranked the power up pretty high on mine.
Last edited:
Just received a new Lemo to my growing collection. I now have 6, 4 full size and 2 Drops. Pretty familiar with them, my go to RTA for 3-4 months.
Been following this thread since it started and read it daily.
This new tank presents a issue which I have not run into on the others. I have one box mod I have to adjust 510 out to make good contact, no problem on all my other units and I realize many find them too loose. This new one's adjusting screw is so tight you can barely turn it with a good amount of force. I applied so much force it poped screw insulator and bottom base contact all the way out. I was able to return it back in the base but never could get screw to loosen enough to protrude below 510 connection threads. It works fine on all my other box mods but I feel it just adjust like my others do which turn pretty easy. Has anyone else run into this? If so what is the solution before I rip into it further.
Been following this thread since it started and read it daily.
This new tank presents a issue which I have not run into on the others. I have one box mod I have to adjust 510 out to make good contact, no problem on all my other units and I realize many find them too loose. This new one's adjusting screw is so tight you can barely turn it with a good amount of force. I applied so much force it poped screw insulator and bottom base contact all the way out. I was able to return it back in the base but never could get screw to loosen enough to protrude below 510 connection threads. It works fine on all my other box mods but I feel it just adjust like my others do which turn pretty easy. Has anyone else run into this? If so what is the solution before I rip into it further.
As bneat and ww have said no one has had one melt yet. Me included. Have seen a few kanger subtank posts where people have had insulators melt. I suspect their parts were loose. Makes sense. Wherever voltage drops heat is generated and the mini subtank is notorious for pos airtube pins loosening.
Please do post pics when you get a chance. We'd all like to see where you lemo insulator is burned.
contact coils are so 2014
Seriously, I still get a little popping with spaced coils, but not nearly as much as contacts. Most importantly, my wick stays clean longer with spaced coils, way longer! And the Lemo is so big there's plenty of room for spaced coils, even for Ni200 TP coils.
I too have moved back to more "spaced" or "traditional" coils. I've found they perform MUCH better than my "contact coils" in all my RTAs and even some of my drippers.
What i do is wrap a normal "contact coil" on my jig under a decent amount of tension as i would always. I use a wire gizmo, clamped to the table, locking nut on the mandrel handle for the start of the wire and a vice grip set of pliers on the other end of the wire... giving it a very tight stretch as i wrap. After it's wrapped i put it on a 2" wire mandrel (drill bit of appropriate size works) sized the same diameter as the one i wrapped with and i give it a slight "stretch" from each end to make my "contact coil" a "spaced coil".
This method gives me perfect, constant tension through out the wire and i can set my spacing to whatever i like. Been experimenting with different spacing for different builds... staggered spacing... incremental spacing etc. I'll have to write up a post sometime soon with what i've found...
Spaced coils work soooo much better than contacts in almost every situation besides the "cloud competition bro-fests".
I have to try that. I normally use my coil winding gizmo, but lately I have been on a spaced coil kick and went back to hand wrapping them. For some reason, I was under the impression that if I tension wrapped it first then spaced it out that it would ruin the coil. I guess I was wrong and I'll have to try that my next build, thanks for the tip.
Oh it def wont ruin anything... makes it so much easier to get perfectly spaced coils! The tension (as long as you've been even while wrapping) makes every space like perfectly identical when you stretch. You can also just wrap a nice tension coil spaced to your liking on the Gizmo with ease. I'll do that for large 3/4 wrap coils for my genni atomizers. That way i never get any hotspots in the legs.
I had one like that.
Had to hold the inside "lug" on the connector base with pliers, then unscrew the 510 pin.
you want just enough cotton to make contact with the coil. so it has to be snug in the coil but not so snug the wick hangs on the coil. density of your cotton wick will have a factor too. i found that the traditional way of unrolling the cotton ball then re-frisking it to make the wick is vary uneven. i think the best way to make the wick from cotton balls is to pull the center of the cotton ball out slowly teasing along the way to make a cone'ish shape that has even density. plus with the cone'ish shape wick you can then feed it through coil till you hit the sweet spot of tense in the coil.
Out of the box, the adjustment screw is very tight. Take the base off and hold the inside cylinder with a needle nose pliers and then unscrew the 510 screw with a good screw driver. Should turn easily after it's broken loose. All 3 of mine were like that.
- Status
