The Pyrex SS hybrid Wick

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Fr3shMak3r

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This looks really really promising.

So, a couple of things come to mind - this seems to eliminate any need to oxidize the wick, since there's no longer direct electrical contact.

It seems you could be pretty "sloppy" with coil wrapping in general since it shod behave pretty much like a coil with no wick in it at all. As long as you aren't shorting it to itself, and it's making good enough contact with the Pyrex to transfer the heat, you'd be good to go.

Also, it seems like any type of wick could work? Since the coil is insulated from the wicking material, I would guess silica/cotton, etc. would be less likely to burn. Or would it not get hot enough at all?
 

wesweswes

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How about a tightly rolled mesh just at the top of the tube to sustain the liquids from flowing out of the tube?

until i get some pyrex capillary tubes i just don't know!
i would imagine it wont keep up rather than flooding??
you would most likely also have to maintain the level of viscosity in your juice.
This is out of my territory!

im going shopping tomorrow!!!
 
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bapgood

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This looks really really promising.

So, a couple of things come to mind - this seems to eliminate any need to oxidize the wick, since there's no longer direct electrical contact.

It seems you could be pretty "sloppy" with coil wrapping in general since it shod behave pretty much like a coil with no wick in it at all. As long as you aren't shorting it to itself, and it's making good enough contact with the Pyrex to transfer the heat, you'd be good to go.

Also, it seems like any type of wick could work? Since the coil is insulated from the wicking material, I would guess silica/cotton, etc. would be less likely to burn. Or would it not get hot enough at all?

My thoughts were that you would be creating the same amount of heat....since your doing the same thing just conducting the heat through a secondary insulator to vaporize the liquid. Maybe the heat would be distributed more evenly over the greater surface area created by the glass tube, and not break down silica/cotton wick as much.
 

Fr3shMak3r

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if it worked! but i have my doubts, unless we rethink the entire tank design...

I don't think it would work consistently enough with just the capillary action of the tube. A lot of other forces come into play that determine how far the liquid would travel up the tube. Think of a barometer, which works on this principal, with the height of the fluid travel determined by ambient air pressure alone.

However, the "rethinking tank design" gave me an interesting idea.

Think compact Genesis style atty for bottom feeder mods.
 

junkman

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I don't think it would work consistently enough with just the capillary action of the tube. A lot of other forces come into play that determine how far the liquid would travel up the tube. Think of a barometer, which works on this principal, with the height of the fluid travel determined by ambient air pressure alone.

However, the "rethinking tank design" gave me an interesting idea.

Think compact Genesis style atty for bottom feeder mods.

You may be right - it could be calculated using a formula for height of a meniscus. Not sure how much impact normal barometric pressure would influence it. Could be alot or a little.

Some one more comfortable with math could run a calculation for a range of pressures easy enough to find out.
 

Fr3shMak3r

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You may be right - it could be calculated using a formula for height of a meniscus. Not sure how much impact normal barometric pressure would influence it. Could be alot or a little.

Some one more comfortable with math could run a calculation for a range of pressures easy enough to find out.

Barometric pressure was just one example. For example, as soon as the tank was tilted so that the tube wasn't submerged, it would drain. Temperature would effect it. As would the thickness of the liquid.

These aren't necessarily unsolvable problems. I'm not intending to be critical, just sort of thinking the concept through, because it's interesting.
 

junkman

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Barometric pressure was just one example. For example, as soon as the tank was tilted so that the tube wasn't submerged, it would drain. Temperature would effect it. As would the thickness of the liquid.

These aren't necessarily unsolvable problems. I'm not intending to be critical, just sort of thinking the concept through, because it's interesting.

Yeah. Needs some experimenting, but it would be cool if some math wiz would run some numbers to get us in the ball park for inside diameter at lab conditions, then run that diameter at 60F to 90F, and at a modest range of barometric pressures and see if the variability is too extreme to even consider or if there is little affect.

I think the tube would have to go to the bottom of the tank which would address the submersion issue except when the fluid is about gone.
 

Cloud Wizard

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With the wick covered by pyrex, how are you getting the vapor expansion? Most devices use hot/cold to cause a thermal expansion but in this case the vapor is forced through the end and not in the direct path of air flow. Just thinking about how the position of the hole in a typical gennie style atty affects the vapor production (direct on coil more vapor, indirect more TH).
 

subsolanus

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Aw crap. This is something I was thinking about. I'm pretty sure that the bulk of the heat transfer is radiative. Glass is actually a thermal insulator and when you consider the mass involved, conductive transfer is probably weaker. The wick is absorbing infared radiation from the coil. The glass acts as a infrared window and thermal insulator and forces the resulting absorbed radiation into vaporizing the fluid. Remember that radiative power goes as T to the 4th power. Using a concentric reflector should improve performance. Oxidizing the SS should improve it's absorptivity.

I've been running something like this around in my head for a while but with an elliptical reflector.

I can't wait to try it. Borosilicate should work as well as fuzed quartz.
 
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